Відео

Just found your channel, and I was so happy watching the other videos when I saw this one. 😢 By the comments, I can see that you are getting through everything, and I hope you'll be back soon. Wishing you a speedy recovery and good health

Deadly 🎉

White plastic trunking not conduit but cracking idea thanks

Those Trelino divider toilets look good to me. So simple, but also very expensive for what they are.

Great vids. Is the fidge still running in the van? I wonder how domestic fridges hold up to vibration? And is a smart pure sine wave inverter really needed so it only draws when the fridge demands? Or do regular inverters work well with it? Thanks

well exsplanded realy informed vidio. feel more confident now to wire up boards. thanks

Well explained 👏

Hi. How many amps would it consume in average over 24hrs period?

such a helpful video - thanks mate!

Great info. Thanks for posting this. My 2 year old £700+ isotherm 12v fridge is playing up and I was looking at replacing it with a household fridge. Perfect.

I know its been a while, but it would be interesting to use a 230v power meter also, to have a idea of how much power is lost in the conversion 12-230. I totalt agee in your conclusions, i also run a normal frigde on a inverter. I think a "loss" of 20-25% power due to the inverter always being on (atleast at standby mode) and the conversion loss. Considering both batteries and solar is cheaper than ever its the best alternative!

What I would like to know from you guys is:what about driving bumpy roads,is there a problem for domestic fridge/freezers?you know when they deliver,they say not to turn it on for two hours for settling ,or is that only when the fridge was transported laying?Anyone?thanks in advance

HI sir great vid , i have a 230v house fridge in my camper for the last 4 years running off my inverter and it works great for days .

How did you bend the rubber trims around the square cut corners ?

looks great

Excellent video! This fully answered many questions I had. Thank you SO much! Liked and subscribed, and will check out more of your videos to learn even more.

well done lad. thanks

Great video! I just pulled out a 3 way fridge from our caravan and am going to simply replace it with a slimline domestic fridge powered by an inverter connected to the leisure batteries that charge via x3 ex farm solar panels (our caravan is static)

Question for u. I got a bluetti ac 200max. It has a 12 volt 30 amp port i want to hardware into a fuse box like u got here. Can it take the place of a typical 12 volt battery like u are using here?

Yes, great video - hope things are going OK. You mentioned that you can make a earth connection on bare (vehicle chassis) metal (no need to return to fuse box) - if you've covered this in another video then grateful for a link.

Hi there I have one of these cassettes but when I turn the opener the flap to let the bad stuff go down, nothing happens it won't open and you've a toilet full of the bad stuff, the blue water comes in but flap won't open.

Similar sentiments as everyone here, Gerry. Hope you're doing heaps better and have a few videos in the pipeline. Would be great to see a van tour; great to see more fellow Irish with an intuitive, practical, approach to things (while not just throwing shite together and hoping for the best). All the best, J.

This is so helpful. (The typical 12v fridges aren't only expensive and small... they are really ugly.) Thank you! xx 🌻

Just came across you last week, wish I'd found ya sooner, see from the comments your doing OK now, hope that's still the case and the campers on the mend too, your videos are great if you're ever feeling up to getting back into it 👌

So we are looking at fridges now. Would like to ask how the domestic fridge holds up to all the movement during travel?

One of the things that was concerning me was that, it's said you should leave a fridge to stand when you move it (in a camper it will move a lot!) before switching it on, have you had any problems with it (nearly 4 years later?)

Is it possible to make them less wide (say if a window is not as wide as the nearest standard width) ??

Deadly. To Ballymun IKEA I go!

Jamie how are you.

Thanks good info on 12v wiring

Many thanks, hadn't a clue what to do with this little box lol

Are these cheap, unbranded fuse boxes the same quality as the expensive ones? Is the metal actually plated copper? What's the voltage drop across the terminals?

I have the exact same fridge freezer in my narrowboat running off a 2000w inverter a 3 leisure batteries, it works fine, my only gripe is the inverter draws 1 1/2 amps just being on with no load so it does drag batteries down in a 24h period, all in all though it’s much cheaper than a 12v fridge.

Sending positive thoughts and get well soon xx

If you do a good job covering the top, bottom and side edges of these blinds, are these blackout? For example, if it’s night and you have lights on inside the van and the blinds are down, can you see that the lights are on if you’re outside?

I follow Gerry. Just found you channel. All the best for your ongoing recovery from Galway 🙏

What Guage wire are you using to run from the battery to the fuse block

Hello! I hope you're doing well!

Miss you buddy.

Just seen this video after watching some of your other contents. Then i see it was a year ago. I really hope the operation was a success and you recovered well. ✌️

Hi. I have an under counter domestic fridge freezer running via my inverter on my Narrowboat, it has worked happily for over 3 years. I modified the thermostat by fitting a digital temp controller which comes with a probe on the end of a 2 m wire, it’s just a case of disconnecting the original thermostat wires from the compressor and replacing with the wires from the digital controller, I can now set the “exact” temp I want and choose how many degrees either side of that before it switches on or off again again. Mine draws approx 60w when running and was £147 from Curry’s as opposed to £560 in 12v from a chandlers 🤷🏻‍♂️

Hi. Just bumped into your stuff this morning, watched a few, commented, then saw this one. I'm a similar age and copped a similarly life changing medical thing a while ago (Mantle Cell Lymphoma). It all happens really quick doesn't it and unlike most things, you don't get much time to ponder what to do. You can't get your head around all the options anyway and it's not DIY-able (bugger it). Mine has gone OK so far, but have spent a lot of my 50's having various treatments. Last round finished in time for the lift of the Covid travel ban we had. You've had Covid finish (almost) and now have to deal with this. Bad timing, sod it. The biggest thing is how much time is left and how to use it? I might have a couple of years, or I might have 40. Do I spend all my money now, or still eke it out (no kids to leave it to)? So I pretty much retired, bought a Hymer in the UK (I live in Tasmania). I come over every year and potter about France in summer (I'd move there if only I could speak French). Now I found another Hymer back here too (these are both old, so not fancy or expensive).

You haven't said what the temperature is. Doesn't look that high as you're wearing a fleece. As the fridge was on maximum I wonder how it'd handle over 30C? Fridges are rated for different temperature ranges using a letter guide like N, or NT. For hotter areas you want one that can handle T. Another issue is the type of refrigerant. I notice that one uses R600a. A Domestic CRX110 uses R134A. I tried researching what the difference was and there are pros and cons to each. R600a looks more efficient, but R134a works in a wider range of room temperatures. This may be the biggest difference between mains and 12 volt ones. You need to decide if you're happy with just sub zero freezer temperatures (ok for ice cream), or do you want to try to achieve proper long term freezer temperature -18C (better for food). The Beko fridge I got is A+++ 110 litres, 38dB, 93kwh a year. €190 on Amazon.de You may not be able to get that one, but there could be similar. You want to get a 3 sensor temperature gauge - 1 freezer, 1 fridge, then the built in one for the room temperature. I got one that sticks on the fridge door. Then keep an eye on it and fiddle with the fridge setting to get the correct temperatures (4 fridge, -18 freezer). It is quite hard to get it right in both. I found when the fridge was right, the freezer was ridiculously cold, as low as -30 sometimes. Also has a frost free freezer. After 3 months summer use there was hardly any ice to clear out when I put it into storage for winter.

When the 3way fridge in my motorhome (in the UK) died in 2019 I looked into the 3 options (2019 prices): 1. New 3way £1000-1200 as it had to be done by a qualified tech due to the gas. 2. 12 volt compressor £800 plus needs more solar, B2B charger, better battery. 3. Mains fridge £200, plus inverter £175 more solar, B2B charger, battery. I chose 3 as it was the cheapest option (would have been if I had used the vans original leisure system). If by chance the fridge ever dies (it hasn't after two 4 month 10,000km summer trips in temps up to 40C) it's a cheap replacement. The 3way was never very good in the summer in France, which could get over 40C. Once over 25 it started to lose interior temperature and at 30 was barely coping. This is an upright 100 litre one. I didn't fancy spending £1200 for a fridge that couldn't even handle heat. 12 volt compressor was by far the most expensive option. Expensive fridge and all that power stuff to run it. The only saving is I could DIY install it. I bought a high efficiency, quiet (38dB) Beko TSE 1284 from Germany as it had the correct dimensions to go where the 3way was. Didn't need space on the sides or top for venting. Has an old style grid on the rear for cooling which suited the rear vented installation space the 3way had been in. Victron Phoenix 12/800 inverter (just for the fridge) runs it. I leave it on all the time so there's a fridge light. It didn't seem to use much extra power doing that over eco mode. I have kept the fridge vent fans in the van wall I had with the 3way and they're more audible (when it's hot) than the fridge. The inverter fan comes on for about 1 second when the compressor starts. Otherwise almost silent. I wasn't sure how much power it would use so I installed a completely separate leisure power system for it so as not to affect the original van system. As it happens I overdid it, but that just means I have excess to run other things which is handy. 100Ah lithium battery, 30A B2B charger, 300 watts solar. I have 200 watts solar and a 110 Ah lead carbon battery on the original leisure system. I reckon if I'd added the B2B charger and maybe 200 watts solar to that I could have run the fridge on that system. Just had to work out a way to lock the shelves in place and a bar across the front of each one to retain food, then a simple lock for the door (all turned out to be easy and neat). Best of all it works properly in any temperature. Frozen stuff stays frozen. It's great. The only feature I would like is one with electronic thermostat and separate temperature controls for fridge and freezer like a big more expensive fridge has, but I don't think any small fridges have that.

Perfectly explained, thanks.

Can the fridge run while the vehicles on a slope or while driving up hill and even parked uphill . Wouldnt that cause any issues with the fridge. That is my only concern. If not what type of compresssor fridges work well with rough driving conditions thanks!

Very good, thank you... Awesome detail in this review, will be watching more of your videos...

Great videos just subbed,sorry to hear this news i hope you are doing well and on the mend 🙏

Just came across your channel today, looking for tips on making a van. Really enjoyed your vids, straight and easy to follow. Sad to see this one though, really hope everything has worked out and you are on the mend 👍🏻

I installed 2 of these in my boat but I'm puzzled: when I switch on a light and then remove the fuse, the light goes out and the fuse LED lights up just as it should. However, with the fuse installed I measure 13.06V on the outlet but when I remove the fuse, I still measure 11.4V on each (+)outlet when I connect my multi-meter between the (+) and the (-)block. The fuse LED then faintly lights up. I would expect that removing the fuse would interrupt the power. It looks like the 11.4V is too weak to activate the circuit but it's not 0. Did you test this?