Відео

Hi, I have watched your videos over the years and it seems to me a non electronics person that you are a pretty smart, innovative bloke. I am interested in off grid solar, simple electronics etc. I find when you are explaining your work you are talking to electronics engineers and professionals and you are way above my understanding. Maybe if you could do a series of videos showing how to build a hot water system and see it working would be great. I think It would boost your subscribers as well. Just a thought. I am an old guy and I find I get brain fog as well trying to understand what you are doing, but it sure looks interesting. I am sure a lot of people are interested in your work.

I did build a little Window comparator with a 324 about ten years ago to run a Solar Hot Air heater. That was pretty successful. Still trying!

I’m sorry you have been discouraged by the response. I’ve been glued to these designs for two years or so.. I built the sg3525a circuit.. but overheated my fets and stalled out for a while. I really never studied electronics properly enough to get good at the bits that you juggle in your sleep there. Most of the other techs I work with in Heat Pumps and Solar think I’M way out ahead.. but I have a long way to go. I just think most service guys I work around know how to read resistance and voltage, enough to get to ‘swap out the board’ with tech support. Don’t give up, please.

There are some of us Solar guys that don’t want to do direct connect. Thanks for the ongoing designs and tips. I’m trying to catch up!

Brain fog thats what im gonna use LOL @ 10:02

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Designed as a low cost PV ice melter for chickens water source using a 12V panel, this can be adapted to any voltage PV array changing capacitors and FET. This runs without issues. Any op amp can be used like a quad LM324 which has rail to rail output swings. Those extra op amps can add temperature shut off and arc interrupt. Only about 20W is needed to melt ice and this will provide that with only 1A of panel current. The three 1500uF 35V Low ESR capacitors in parallel provide that in a small package. Any low resistance FET can be used. A IRF4332 would get you to 250V. A couple in parallel wouldn't need much of a heat sink. This connected to a 600W 120V steamer pot would make a great off grid cooker with a 40V grid panel or two 12V panels in series. Anyone want to collaborate and lay out a board? You could become a hero and make money building these.

Don't dismiss this controller because of its simplicity. I've watched this for days with a scope and this controller is as good as it gets for a control without thermal tracking and arc interrupt. Cheap enough that one can be made for each heating element and a cost similar to a solid state relay from China. Differential voltage is only 2V on a 60V system, about as good as you can get with a capacitive storage system. I did make one change to lower noise even more. Gate resistor was changed from 27 ohm to 100 ohm. I can put the antenna of my ATS-20+ shortwave receiver on the drain of the FET and still not pick up noise. I' not going to bother with anymore simple designs, this is simple and cheap enough. A TL431 can replace the 13V zener to reduce the number of items to purchase. Just use a 4XR for the upper resistor and 1XR for the lower, like 6.8K and 27K or use 4 X 6.8K resistors in series.

resistors are very very cheap so do it the wright way people

isnt there a better way to do all this lol if you have all the parts you ever need then im sure you could make one better then this sure it will get more complicated but but thats life either let china do stuff like this or do it the right way not the cheap chineese way

Try running that thing solid ON at 50 amps at 50 VDC for a half hour and see what happens.

Opera, do you still offer your module for the early Sun distributor machines? Specifically the "Master Distributor Tester" Thanx, Tom

Everyone wants simple. This is simple and has the minimum parts count to be a good stable circuit. Funny thing is circuits which have more features only use about a half dozen more parts. This uses the Schmidt trigger inverting input of an IR2103 or IR2102 and the low voltage lockout to make it stable as PV voltages rises in the morning. The circuit keeps the panels at near power point voltage to make it efficient transfer of energy into a fixed resistance. Energy is stored in a capacitor bank in off periods. A FET of sufficient voltage and current of at least 10X panel current should be used or multiple FET to reach that current. I used a FAKE IR3205 which had a tested breakdown voltage of 83V for the output. Gate capacitance of 5nf indicated tha this probably had a current rating of over 80A. It seems to run cool. A real IR3205 FET is rated at 110A and 55V, breakdown voltage will be about 63V. It is hard to get parts that are real these days. This test is using the 6,000uf of my existing water heater control. I just turn that off and connect any experimental circuit to the three banana jacks in the front panel. Voltage sensing is done with a TL431 with a reference voltage of 2.5V. A 0.22uf capacitor filters some noise and provides a slight time delay. TL431 output can drop as low as 2V and the following LED and silicon diode offset the voltage 2.1V to the Schmidt inverting input of the FET driver. Again, that input has a 0.22uF to provide a delayed on and off to provide stability and prevent short pulses from noise. Using inverting drivers can be a bit tricky at morning startup. Using an opto isolator or PNP transistor simplifies design but adds additional components. At full sun, the FET turns on and stays on. Frequency is free range depending on size of capacitor bank and heating element resistance. There is no arc interrupt in this design. Thermostat can control board power to shut down. I saw between 30 and 300 Hz in this test. For higher voltages than 60V, add an additional 330 ohms resistance for each 5V over 60V array voltage. Each resistor should not be over 1,000 ohms when using half watt resistors. This can work with any voltage array. Just select the correct capacitor voltage. There are small switching 120V AC supplies which run fine off DC and can be used in place of dropping resistors. FET or IGBT can be used for the output. Generally, IGBT used over 200V because of cost. Multiple HV FET can be used in parallel.

Thanks for this video. Could you explane how you choose the feedack resistor? what exactally is its purpose is in this curcuit? Exactally how it's wired in relation to pins 2, 4, and 5? and how to determine the resistance needed (100k or other)? I'm quite new to electronics and trying to make a simple photometer

Hello Opera, Sorry If I'm on the Incorrect thread. Can you help, I'll make It short. I have a 48v Solar panel system Just pre heating my CH system only. No Inverter. Completely off grid. Just a Solar Charge Controller and lead batteries. Works brilliant. One problem. When set at the battery under Voltage cut off It doesn't do so (I have tried resetting) It does cut off when It reaches Overcharge setting. Any Idea what may be the problem. I'm trying to keep It as simple as possible and not adding anything that puts an extra draw on the Solar power.

WARNING: DC voltages of over 500V are present as well as 120V AC. Be very careful around these circuits. It came as a surprise to me that the neon tube pulsed 4 to 5 times in a 32 microseconds period of the flash. At a 40Hz firing rate, voltage on the 47 ohm current limiting resistor of the power supply was only about a millivolt. Certainly, this resistor does not serve the same function of dropping voltage in typical tube rectifier replacement circuits. The voltage will be about 50 volts higher with the silicon diodes replacing the vacuum rectifier tube. Raising the voltage an additional 31V gave no indication that raising voltage would increase the light output of a weak tube. This tube was tested with my voltage withstand tester and 2200V was not enough to fire the tube. The capacitor in the head measured 0.25uF. If your tube is weak, it is worth a try adding an additional capacitance of the same size or slightly larger on the board in the back with the center contact brush to make the strobe brighter. The additional on time should not be an issue in blurring the pointer.

please Help😣😣 my jesverty DC power supply capacitor over hating and i changed but still the same problems

thank you for the video, I had an issue with the button being jammed when I don't use the Navage liquid thingy, I prefer making my own. After opening the apparel i found the thing that blocks the button when the top cap isn't close properly. I manage to pull on the thing which separate from the rest. I can now use the Navage system with my own nose cleaning solution without problem.

Another option is to use a Lenovo laptop charger. They output 21 volts which is ideal for charging 18 volt (5s or 5s,2p of NMC cell) battery packs. Put a 10 ohm resistor in series with the supply if the battery pack is so deeply discharged that the starting surge is too great. I have seen switch mode power supplies rated for 89-270 VAC, 50 or 60 Hz, start and continue to run on as little as 35 VDC.

Please hold the phone sideways I see so little of what you're talking about in portrait.

thanks for sharing that! still wanted to contact you about buying LED dwell angle module but can't post a comment when my e-mail adress is there :(

the device arrived very quickly, has 2 functions, the capacitor discharger works, the high voltage device for radio components seems to work, but a problem arises when measuring polar capacitors, with a capacitor voltage of 70-100 volts and microfarads greater than 1000 microfarads, it starts to act up and gets stuck at a couple of volts and that’s it. I tried a bunch of capacitors but the problem is the same, small capacitors the device still shows voltage and simple capacitors also produce voltage. The problem of polar capacitors is not solved in it. An error in the microcircuit or a defect.

This video is worthless without showing how to take apart.

How do you take it apart?

I'm just gonna buy a new one and return the old one pretending it doesn't work 😂.

Would you have one or two boards your willing to sell?? Im very I terested. Kjnd rdgards

i would like to purchase one or two of these from you if you would build them for me. im guessing they are similar to techluck solar board. please advise

Would the resistance wire from a toaster draw more/ make more efficient heat.

Just got a 40A DD SSR and this is even slower than this one, 8.68ms. Again surprises. This new 40A relay has a transformer driver and what appears to be an IGBT. Saturation voltage is .756V at 0.1A and stabilizing at 1V from 1A to 3A. Never tested at higher current but that will likely climb to about 1.7V.

seems like the safest bet is to always use these mystery SSR's with an external driver board? Would have to do the cost comparison of cheap ssrw/external driver vs a legit brandedSSR

Solid state relays are like a box of chocolate. You never quite know what you will get. I swore I would never order another one of these in my last video. Now I'm done for sure. It is impossible to know what you are ordering. This all still fail from under voltage control input. Now that I look back, that transformer driven version was pretty good. This looks absolutely identical and may represent a switch to them all being photocoupler based and slow. I just can not design around an unknown. This photocoupler can't supply enough current to charge the gate fast enough. Likely due to large gate capacitance of the FET. Many solar charge controllers with PWM diversion would burn this up due to slow ramp up causing FET heating.

and i have one of those boost converters as well so what still works good as long as you put a fan on them and you can fix them easily

bro you lie ill even prove it i have 2 solar panel one from harbour freight and the other fom AMAZON and each of them ive gotten 110watt out of both of them so what are you talking about yeah they dont stay at 110 watt for more then a few minutes at a time and i live in new york and its late in the year and new york is far from the equator so shut up you dont know shit you sound stupid right now

Couldn't a super cap hold the voltage to a stable voltage without the need for this circuit?

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This relay has a snap turn on but turn off is analog with no gate drive protection. Low control voltage can drive the FET gate in a linear region causing excessive FET heating which will destroy the relay. Gate needs at least 6V for any reasonable current. Internally this is an IRFP4332 FET rated at only 57A at 25C at the junction. That drops to 40A at 100C, a more realistic number. My prior quick calculation put the on resistance at about 35 milliohms and specifications are 29-33. This relay can be repaired because of the stingy use of epoxy made it easy to open..

put the circuit underneath the heater of the pot , get some of the eff. back lol

This five component circuit will fake a buck or boost converter into ramping down the output voltage when the input voltage goes below a set voltage. There are many variations of this circuit using TL431, op-amp, transistor and microprocessor. Reducing the FET pull up resistor to 3K from 10K fixed the problem of the boost converter not turning off when the input voltage dropped to 10V. I was in a rush to do the test and see how many WH it took to get a typical meal up to temperature. Rain was predicted the next day and it was already after 10am on an east facing panel. The response was predictable from the math.

Will the boosted DC burn the thermostat contacts when it switches on and off? I guess if you had more panels you could use your reservoir capacitor - switching MPPT circuit to break the power at a few hundred Hz which would quench any thermostat arcs.

Found a pot which was 600W at 120V which has a resistance of 21 ohms. This small pot is a steamer, the reason for the high wattage. Most are way more than double this resistance and less than half the wattage. This makes it possible to use a boost converter with a 12V panel. I had a 300W boost converter which was pretty typical with an idle current of 20ma, 100V capacitors and was set up with a maximum voltage of 33V. I increased that to 40.5V maximum, the most I thought the semiconductors could take. The solar panel is a RENOGY 100W with 22,5V open circuit. Max I observed was 20.5V, these panels are old and went thru a lightning event. Vmp is 18.9V and Imp 5.29A. Power point control is a voltage divider, 40K into a 10K pot. FET gate voltage is used as a reference. Drain feeds current into switcher reference pin (2.54V) thru diode to fake converter into thinking voltage is too high and shutting down. TEST RESULTS 18C start at 10am 16.2V power point 52W19oz of water panel facing east 33C 11 minutes 10WH 57W 16.6V in 32V out 55C 30 minutes 27.6WH 66C 45 minutes 40.7WH hot enough to kill bacteria 76C 60 minutes 54.8WH 62W keep warm thermal trips (not used) 86C 120 minutes 113WH 87C 154 minutes 146WH this is the terminal temperature where input = loss This does work. If buck converter totally shuts off it does a pass thru to heating element. 10K resistor not low enough to shut down converter so boost converter went into a death spiral down to 9.6V. They shut down at that voltage to protect the FET. Power point for panel was 16.7V and converter had about 15% loss and ran quite hot. This is still more effective than direct connect methods others have used and this uses a standard pot. Most of the choices with 100W panels are not very good.

Every repair I ever did had more "Aha that must be it" moments than it should have had.

I think you just freed the ghost inside the POT :) To bad you did not made a wish ..

I fix one of my battery with a power supply

Can I come over and work on electronics with yea lol😅 just kidding had a friend here locally I used to go hang out with him we play around with the stuff solar too

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This was so unusual I thought I would share it. My water heater controller became erratic and difficult to set This was a failure mode I had never seen before. In any repair you mind must remain open to the impossible. Some faults are almost freakish. Turning the pot made almost no change in voltage. I absolutely cleaned the table to see if anything would fall out when I removed the cover. Nothing could be seen in the pot or on the table. Yet the pot was perfect when assembled back. Will I use this pot again, YES.

Horrible name for your channel you either get Oprah Winfrey or Opera I guess Italian musicals. But it's nice to see somebody understand it's great to find the problem but you also need to find out what caused the problem. difference between mechanic and good mechanic electrician

Yeah I believe the p102 had this issue really bad and it was basically sold with every tool. So Ryobi got a really bad unreliable name a few years back.

I have an older Ryobi battery pack that went into deep discharge and now will not charge on a standard charger. With many battery packs, applying voltage to the output terminals will wake them up. This is not possible with Ryobi. The pack must be taken apart to do this. Voltage must be applied to the upper and lower cell. With an older pack this could happen often. To save me the trouble next time, I drilled a hole in the O of the Ryobi at the negative end of the pack. This cell end is exposed and a NEGATIVE test lead probe can be inserted to wake it up. POSITIVE can go to the positive of the packs output. It doesn't take long to put enough charge on the pack for the standard charger to function again. This trick will probably work for other packs also.

Unlike my other voltage relays, this one has an input resistance of 21K ohms. That gave the low voltage reading of 6V maximum. I changed the timing resistor to 10K and now the voltage will now rise to 9.4V. I changed the turn on voltage to 7.5V to make the timing about the same. With the resistance of the voltage monitor so low, the 2K load resistor has been eliminated.