Відео

Yea I’ve read a bunch of forums I think I’m gonna run a 160 degree thermostat

145k

Lmao wdym ruin he just added aftermarket headlights

@@DonnyBuilds well I guess they're in theme with the blacked out taillights which don't work as well as they used to. For 2800 you could have gotten a much worse shitbox so props to you.

@@Wayne_Aarks yea I found out it’s the compressor gonna be a fun job lol, I got this car for a steal so I’m fine with putting $1000 into it to fix all the issues with it

@DonnyBuilds gonna be alil more than 1000 dogs .. all together I'm saying .. either way don't let it discourage you once u work out the kinks u will enjoy it .. Either way you can always turn around and sell it for way more than u paid so regardless u will still be good

@@jeremyrobertson835 yea I bought a new 180 degreee thermostat and water wetter so when I flush the coolant I’m going to do that, also going to clean everything between the radiator and condenser, thanks👍🏽

@@onexx6448 yessir🙌🏽

That’s not what he asked

@@Yajsemi whatever you have to tell yourself to help you sleep at night

Did that and everything feels riding and secure no play in the wheels

No it’s not hard to turn, yea it happened randomly one day

@@DonnyBuilds inspect your ball joints, all of them, and inspect your bushings, all of them. Everything should be taught and supple without any cracks. If you find that your control arms or your sway bar links or your bushings or your ball joints lack these characteristics then it is likely that those components need to be replaced. I recognize that money is tight, but please take it from me someone who pinches every penny that trying to save money on parts is going to cost you more money. You'll lose money in time not spent enjoying yourself or making money at work, and you'll lose money and having to buy parts twice. Don't buy bearings and don't buy bushings buy the entire kit normally it's a wheel knuckle with a bearing inside of it or a control arm with the ball joint and bushings attached to it. (You probably don't need new bearings, because they tend to squeak and squeal when they run out). But my general point is the same, you need to replace all of these parts if your car is anywhere near 160,000 miles

@@modernNeanderthal800 when I jack it up and steer the wheel the clicking goes away it’s only there when the car is on the floor

@@DonnyBuilds that feels like outer tierod maybe both that and outer ball joint. I feel pretty strongly about it. Grab your strut links and shake them, grab your tie rod and jerk it. They should have resistance and the tierod should be stiff to try and push around. The boots should look plump and when squished they should feel like they are full of grease

@@DonnyBuilds oh yeah and check your control arm bushings. I doubt it's those, but look to see if the rubber bushings are cracked and sagging really hard

@@Weird_1 axles r in the rear

CV axles only clunk during turns. But it does sound similar

@@modernNeanderthal800 not if there is enough play in the knuckles. I’ve also seen them so bad where they clunk driving straight because the knuckles are just bouncing up and down in the tripod joints. It could be sway bar end links, tie rods, wheel bearing if there is any play but unlikely with it being loaded

@@modernNeanderthal800 gotchu, but would you have a thought of exactly what is making this noise? Check out my other short video showing the noise

@@DonnyBuilds can you get a more broad view with a longer run time? I'll check the other video now

Yea I tried that but today I’ll try again and look and feel everywhere more in depth

@@DonnyBuilds any luck? Curious for the solution

@@hellsk100 dude I’ve went under, looked at everything, all suspension components are good, wheels don’t shake at all, I asked my friend to turn the wheel while it clicks I put my hand on the steering column part that connects from the driver wheel into the engine bay and I feel it vibrate a tiny it might be that but I’ve seen no one with the same issue

@@DonnyBuilds you think maybe a motor mount at this point?

@@hellsk100 don’t think so, something to do with the steering shaft part maybe something is loose

@@makaevans8323 it’s electronic power steering no fluid

I rolled my car recently and aside from a dented roof all I can hear is that noise so is suggest you change it and when you find out what 'IT' is tell me please so I can change mine 😂

@@ZEVS-v2c wdym, like the tie rod?

But what do u think is making the clank noise

@@NickolasHaldiman this is the front of the car it’s rwd no cvs on the front

@@DonnyBuilds a steering joint. Rack n pinion replacement

Front of the car so can’t be the axle, yea I’m thinking sway bar end link or a bushing it sounds like it’s coming from the middle of the steering rack lol idk

@@fredodonkor1616 yea at least an hour before because your taking the airbag off

ABS Wheel speed sensor, make sure you search your exact model

@@DonnyBuilds will I change the two back wheel speed sensor or is just left Rear back wheel sensor?

@@GoodGood-ym1my could be either one, maybe with a scan tool u can see but should replace both to be safe

@@DonnyBuilds alright thanks 🫡

@@ChuckTay23 don’t think so, I think u need the same model so everything lines up perfectly and all the electrical components stay with the same, not 100% sure tho

Thank you so much for answering. Figured.

@@norbertachuo6813 wdym by “act like the rack and pinion is broken”?

Does ur horn work

@@DonnyBuilds no nothing works

@@norbertachuo6813 yea most likely ur clockspring, also will trigger the airbag light sometimes

@@DonnyBuilds okay thank you so much

I mean I would just suggest popping out the fuel line with the disconnect tool and then try your method, the fuel line should be easy and accessible to disconnect

Where is the alternator located on the diagram? I sold the car a while ago so I forgot

@DonnyBuilds ahh I see then you probably would not be able to help :/ it is located at the top right of the pulley system. In-between the charge pipe and air intake box. I can't find any thing on it except for this service manual that states all I need to do is remove the charge pipe in order to get to the alternator. However even with the charge pipe removed I cannot see a way how I would get the alternator out, without removing many more things out of the way.

⁠@@NicholasCantarerogotchu yea these engines are designed pretty compact and stupid, yea I’d suggest from the top try and remove as much stuff as u can

@@NicholasCantarero gotchu, good to know thanks

LMAOO