I have just discovered Brian's channel and love it. Lots of good ideas to improve my older Craftsman RAS. I made my joiner jig with a 1x2x4' board. Ripped the 1x2 half way by just the width of the saw blade. When I use it I screw it to table. Quick and easy to install. I don't have to change the fence.
Your Old School approach demonstrates a true fundamental knowledge of the craft. Wonderful to see in this age where so many believe that skill can be bought with just dollars and devices...
Excellent design and demonstration, Brian! Thanks so much for this. I really like that you showed your extra long rip fence, board buddies and micro-adjuster all in actual use. You are making a great contribution to the RAS user community!
Thanks, Rush. I try to show how different things are used together. For this project, I added threaded inserts in my regular back table so I could easily attach board buddies to that too.
I've always ripped with a trip of wood. The issue has always been both pieces don't pass the blade at the end of the cut only the piece I'm pushing with the push stick which often leaves blade marks on the peice not pushed by stick. Your push plank solves this by ensuring both sides of the cut clear the blade especially when ripping a thin strip. Thank you.
Thank you, I have a DeWalt jointer/shaper attachment and a molding attachment for mine. This was very helpful and I will need to purchase a book on how to use the molding cutter. Excellent video.
Thanks. I highly recommend the book “How to Master the Radial Arm Saw” by Wally Kunkel. It includes a lot of information on jointing, shaping, and molding.
Brian, Thank you so much for linking me to this video on our wonderful forum! You are such a talented craftsman! I try to watch ALL your videos. Thank you for spending so much time doing what you do. I am soooo envious of your "Super" MBF!!! and its set up possibilities....how nice!!! L.E.D. lights, Micro Adjuster, Beautiful cabinet, Mr Saw Dust tables and extensions, etc.....
Dude, you have the COOLEST radial arm saw setup I've ever seen. When I grow up (i.e. move to Idaho and replace my inaccurate 1987 Craftsman RAS with a 1950s DeWalt) I want to be just like you. :)
I am a big fan of the RAS. I own several Craftsman 12" versions. I found that the carriages will swap out from one to the other just by removing the stop bolt at the front end of the arm. This allow you to keep a rip blade or dado set mounted up without the hassle of changing blades. I give you great creds for your careful and analytical approach to this operation. Well done!
Holy crap, there is so much brilliant stuff in this video! I love the board buddies, and the led lighting under the gantry! I've seen the jointer attachment in a video elsewhere, but I've never seen using the sawblade itself to do so, that's brilliant. At around 9:23 he mentions the thickness is limited by the motor clearance. This could be overcome by turning the head to rip in the outfeed instead with a more modular table setup, moving the fence out to accommodate the offset.
Thanks. Glad you liked the video. Using the blade in out-rip would give you more motor clearance, but most saws won't allow you to move the blade to, or beyond the fence in that configuration. You would need to move the fence further forward. However, I rarely need to edge joint boards thicker than 2-1/2". I have a separate video on installing the LED lights on the arm and many other RAS videos you might find interesting.
I like your jigs, and the push tool you used! Simple, effective, and pushes both sides of the board through the blade! When used with a fence, this is genius!
thanks for showing, I know my RAS will do this I have a bunch of corban cutters just never used one. however i believe you saws feed direction is differnt than mine. I may go back to the drawing board on the fence I made to use them with. I do appreciate the lesson. if someone doesn't teach this then its a lost art.
Thanks. The feed direction should be the same for any RAS (make sure the blades and cutter head are installed in the correct orientation). I strongly suggest buying a copy of the book “How to Master the Radial Arm Saw” by Wally Kunkel. A large portion of the book is dedicated to molding and shaping with the RAS (in addition to many other operations).
@@brianweekley5700 I probably have it, unless its paper backed I don't read very often. Just look a the pictures. I've got dyslexia hence the name bob, no matter how you turn it its always bob. qoq dod pop bob . you just have to change your point of view! but you'll see bob in there somewhere.
buy a book on radial arm saws and read it first. don't make the mistake i did and rip the wrong direction your first time, i didn't get hurt but i bent a new blade and soiled my shorts. the older machines like he has are the best, but my newer version craftsman works just fine. watch a lot of stuff and read a bunch about safety. Buy some board buddies!
Someone gave me their old Craftsman RAS. I'd been thinking of getting rid of it until I learned in the past week just how versatile it could be, and now I want to get it properly set up. Your RAS setup is gorgeous.
Thank you. Consider joining the "DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum". Even though you have a Craftsman, we welcome all users and it's a great resource for any questions you have about it. Lots of very good tips and information. Also, buy a copy of the book: "How to Master the Radial Arm Saw" by Wally Kunkel. It's a must have if you want to use your saw safely and get the most out of it.
Wow, after just one video I subscribed. I have to adopt RAS attachments and techniques. Thank you. I do not have a jointer. You have taken my RAS to new levels. This will be some of my winter projects. Oh and I hit the Bell!
@@brianweekley5700 as well, I'm really glad I found your channel. I'm soaking up all of what you've shared and hope to put it to use soon. Please keep the videos coming as time permits. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you, I acquired a one owner 1969 model craftsman RAS that is 100% complete and in mint condition. But did not realize everything you could do with it.
Drill press, funny you can search for books on them. I own 2 of them. And I haven't done everything you can with one. they used to make a router mount for them too, if you can find one now.
I was a bounty hunter for older Sears/ Craftsman radial arm saws- a CPSC recall event forced Emerson- the manufacturer- to pay a $100 fee for every returned motor assy. Harvesting close on to 20 or so of them, I found without exception the blades that were used were suited for tablesaws, not radials. The hook angle was always running about 15 degrees positive, far too aggressive for the saw type. Being an experienced user, I can safely deal with blades of about a 10 degree positive hook without issue but for a tyro, your Diablo recommendation is spot on. I have a third variation on edge jointing but a textural explanation would be wanting, so I'll leave that one alone but I do want to mention I scored one of the rare "Rotary Plane" accessory items branded for DeWalt and the thing is superb for surfacing/ thicknessing stock and odd stuff like beveling threshold strips, etc. I'm gratified to see I have lived long enough to see something of a renaissance of the radial arm saw machine tool, it has always been victim of operator ignorance and abuse, and is one of the most useful machine tools ever conceived.
It’s great seeing both of you guys from the forum! The knowledge shared from there is wonderfully important to counterbalance a lot of the misinformation that is so prevalent here on YT. Great content Brian. I sub’d.
@@SuperBardley "I saw it on UA-cam" is almost like the famous last words a person can say before trying something fatal they watched there and took it to be correct. ☺
Very nice. I like the idea. I just got a RAS in Oct 2019 and Im building up the table and extra sides too, and was thinking of adding something for jointing, and this really gave me a great idea. Thanks. Very awesome. While I have a jointer, this idea is great add-on for my RAS. Awesome.
Thanks. I don't use the leaf guards. They make it much harder to change blades (which I do a lot). I can't see what they actually protect the user from (just keep your hand out of the blade path at all times)!
This is all fine and good, assuming you can find the attachments needed. In as much as I can't, I'll have to just buy a jointer. My RAS works fine, just aren't many attachments available for it...at least, not in my area. Okay, now the 2nd way I could do...wish I had seen that first, lol.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, the accessories are still easily available. I just looked and saw five shaper guards for sale on eBay (although some unreasonably priced). Corob Cutters still manufactures new molding heads and knives, but used Delta/Rockwell ones can easily be found on eBay too. Really not a problem. Also, if you’re not a member already, join the “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum”. We have members who frequently have accessories for sale if you ask.
@@brianweekley5700 I saw guards for Craftsman, not for DeWalt...I mean, I assume the cutters and heads wouldn't matter as long as they fit a 5/8ths arbor, but would the guards themselves fit?
If you have a DeWalt, you need the DeWalt shaper guard. You are correct-any 5/8” arbor molding head will fit any 5/8” arbor saw. However, the Delta/Rockwell head is better than a Craftsman (greater mass).
Thanks for this. I copied your dust collector idea and it works great. The molding head seems like alot of work to joint compared to the sawblade option. I might make one of these fences for mine.
Making a fence for either the molding head or saw blade is basically the same. The molding head works great. Glad the dust collection is helpful. Thanks!
Thank you for the Video! I have a 59 DeWalt and love the table and base setup. Can you show how you have the machine setup? I am using the Mr. Sawdust top. Thank you!
Thanks. I'm not sure what you mean by machine setup. I have another video that describes how to setup and adjust/calibrate the saw ua-cam.com/video/EQ_HXSuh1PU/v-deo.html. I hope that is helpful.
@@michaelreynaud I have a separate video on making my cabinet ua-cam.com/video/IXoJA70e0JA/v-deo.html and another on a dust collection system ua-cam.com/video/bjSa8YU9e8Y/v-deo.html. Check out my channel--many of my videos feature the RAS in use.
The LED strips have an adhesive back. Clean the metal with acetone first to remove any oil. If you find the adhesive doesn’t stick good enough, try Gorilla two-sided tape. That stuff works great. You can get a better view of the lights in two of my other videos: Restoration of Vintage Radial Arm Saw: 1957 DeWalt MBF” and “LED Task Lighting for the Radial Arm Saw”.
Thank you! It’s a DeWalt MBF, but I do have a newer motor installed on it. I have an earlier video about it titled “Restoration of Vintage Radial Arm Saw: ‘57 DeWalt MBF”.
Things like this are saw specific. Installation of board buddies depends on the thickness of the front and back tables and accommodate the height of your fence. You have to work out what works best for your saw. I do recommend buying a copy of the book “How to Master the Radial Arm Saw” by Wally Kunkel. This describes how to make a great table for the RAS (known as the Mr. Sawdust table).
Brian what do you think about the planer attachment for the RAS? or the Wagner one? Also why do you need a jig to joint boards with a sawblade? Cant you just use a planer blade and just rip 1/32 in the normal way with the straight edge against the fence and the blade to the outside of the board?
I've never used the planer attachment, but it seems like that would be very time consuming having to move the board to cut a small swath with each pass. Yes, you could also use a jointing sled against a long fence to cut the outside of the board with a normal saw blade. Using it this way (like a jointer) avoids the need for a sled and can deal with crooked boards easier.
I wish there were more instruction on proper use of the Radial Arm Saw so people wouldn't be so afraid of them. It is a great tool as long is it is used correctly.
Do you find your ras goes out of alignment quite easily? I have a shopmate that I know isn't as good as a dewalt but if I move the arm and rotte the head, it won't cut a straight cross cut until i have adjusted it again.
How easily a machine goes out of alignment is going to depend on the quality of the machine and how well it's adjusted. Radial arm saws do have many moving parts that need to be properly aligned/adjusted The older DeWalt's are known for their precision and my works very well. If you haven't seen it, please check out my video on radial arm saw alignment.
They’re called “Board Buddies”. You can buy them at Grizzly tools, but often find them cheaper on eBay. The green ones are free-wheeling hold downs (either direction), the yellow ones only feed left to right (generally most useful for RAS or TS), and orange one only feed right to left (only useful on RAS in out-rip mode).
The RAS is the third saw I had ever used. The first was a hand saw I found in the basement when I was nine, second was a sabre saw since I could only afford one power tool when I was 15 and the third was a monster DeWalt I learned to love in Advanced Individual Training in the Army. Who new 20 years later I would inherit one. 1. I also have the MBF and have watched many of your videos over and over absorbing what I can. I like the way you do the videos and also how you go about making the different accessories. And that brings me to my questions or requests if you will. 2. Would it be possible to expand on the making of the rip fence to also include how you chose to mount Board Buddies? 3. Could you possibly explain the process of measuring for the table bracket bolt holes? Thanks for making these videos!
Thank you for the kind comments. My long rip table/rip fence was made exactly the same as shown in my video "Radial Arm Saw: Tables and Fences (Part 2)"--just longer. It's 6 feet long (decided only because of the piece of plywood I had handy). The board buddies are attached with 1/4-20 screws. I installed threaded inserts in the table to screw them into. For placement, I considered the rip position and molding guard and placed the board buddies as close as possible, but still allowing enough room so I could perform all functions. Note that the long rip fence is typically used with stable boards (e.g, sheet goods). If boards are bowed, the long fence could cause pinching at the blade, so sometimes it's better to use the standard fence in that case. For table mounting holes (MBF?), I suggest joining the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum. In the FAQs section, there are some table drawings with dimensions you can print. Unfortunately, It's not something I can easily access right now due to travel. I take it you don't have the original table for reference?
@@brianweekley5700 No, unfortunately I do not. I am a member of the forum though. I will have to delve a bit deeper into it for the drawings. Speaking of drawings, I have not had enough time to thoroughly go through all the comments and such on your channel. Can you point me to some of yours? The miter and bevel gauges come to mind, but I know there are others. I am coming close to retirement and hope to spend more time setting up and using my shop. Back to the Board Buddies. What determined the height?
@@brianweekley5700 When I re-looked at my original questions, I saw that I really only asked two, but labeled them as three. It took me this long to realize what the third question was supposed to be. Kind of goes with the plans questions. Do you have the printer files and cad drawings for the plug and hose adapter? Thanks again!
Thanks for the great video and it has given me another option for edge planning. Not sure this is the place to ask but I am unable to find anything online. Am looking at a safe way to make thin stock 1/8in or less. Table saws seem to have lots of ways to make it but nothing for RAS. Only way I could think to do it was to use a sacrificial fence, set the saw up to rip and close to the fence and rip that way. Is it safe to rip such thin pieces like this? Bit afraid to have the thin stock get wedged between the blade and fence. Thoughts? Advice?
Thank you very much. Your question about how to rip very thin strips on a RAS is a good one. The trick is to not cut all the way through the wood (leave a sliver of wood remaining). That way, there is no small piece of loose wood that will bind, break, or shoot out. There’s a video on UA-cam called “The Radial Arm Saw (Safer and Better than a Table Saw)”. In that video at about 28 min and 15 sec, he shows a very good example on how to rip thin strips.
@@brianweekley5700 Thanks for the quick reply!! Will take a look at your suggestion. Hopefully I can report back that things went well and I still have all my fingers!! I'm sure I'll have more questions in the future so hope you're ok with that! Keep up the good work and keep the videos coming!!
This saw does it all. You understand now why the tool industry had to kill it off. Look at all the tools one has to buy now just to replace the radial arm saw. You gotta call it dangerous, dangerous to them making money.
Yes, it is a versatile machine. However, it can be dangerous--mostly from people who do not use it correctly (not setting it up properly, not using it properly, or using the wrong blade on it). It does have many moving parts/adjustments that need to be setup/calibrated. Unfortunately, many people do not learn to use it or take the time to set it up.
I've been looking for sevral years I want to see more molding head cutters set up and ran. I've yet to see somone use it as a drill press but I have a chuck for it, oh and sander. Not that I need I own a 12" disk sander.
I have a few other videos showing some limited use of the molding head on the RAS and plan to make some more. Two that I can think of offhand are “Make a Ski Rack for Your Truck/Vehicle” and “New Tops for B&D Workmate”.
Dear Brian, excellent video showing yet another great use for the RAS. The board buddies: Are they for pushing a board down into the table to keep it flat or pull it towards the fence? They look like a great idea. Where did you get them? Cheers.
Thank you. The board buddies both hold the wood down and pull it to the fence. Note that they come in three different versions (yellow, green, and orange). I find the yellow ones are best for a radial arm saw (one way direction when pushing wood from right to left). I bought mine from eBay, but you can buy them at Grizzly (if you do a search, you can find other sources).
Thanks for that, they really look like an essential piece of kit if you don’t have the anti-kickback pawls. They also keep the work flat which would be great for a thin piece with a bend in it. I was wondering if you have elsewhere demonstrated some details about your table with the extension arms. I like the idea and with your permission would like to make one similar.
Thanks. If you’re referring to the planer attachment for the RAS, no I don’t have one. It looks like it would be painfully slow to use. I’d prefer to use a hand plane instead if I didn’t already have a power planer.
@@brianweekley5700 I was thinking of the planer head with four carbide cutters that is used like you used the head here. I'm going to try mine on some rough lumber.
@@phillipphall7802 Yes, I used in on some rough lumber that was wider than my 6" table top jointer. It worked pretty good, but not perfect. Still had to use a hand plane to touch it up. You have to wedge it so it won't wobble also.
I was not clear exactly how the perpendicularity of the spindle was adjusted to the table surface. I would guess that you swept it in with a dial indicator attached to the motor spindle, but there are certainly other ways to make the adjustments. Radial arm saws and shapers have been given bad press over the years as being too dangerous to have in a shop. Your video clearly demonstrates that these machines can be operated safely using correct procedures and set ups. Injuries usually come when these procedures are bypassed to save a little time. Table saws, by far, cause the greatest number of amputations yet almost every video I have seen shows the operators pushing boards through with their hands. A friend of mine cut off his index finger in a jointer. All of these machines can be dangerous if not operated in a safe manner. SEAN
Thanks for the comment. I have another video titled “Radial Arm Saw Alignment/Calibration”. Once the saw is properly setup/aligned, the arbor will be perpendicular once you rotate the head to the vertical position (there is a set index to lock the head vertical). With the shaper guard installed and the saw used properly, I believe it is a safe tool to operate-at least no more dangerous than other power tools.
Or simply nail a straight board to your crooked stock to use as a straight edge against the fence and run it through your table saw once. Jointers are slow and obsolete.
Thanks for your comment. Sure, that’s another way to straighten an edge if some holes in your stock are acceptable. However, I disagree with your statement that jointers are obsolete. For fine woodworking, you certainly can’t flatten the surface of a board on a table saw or a radial arm saw! P.S. I like the vintage road bikes on your channel (I cycle too).
@@brianweekley5700 I do like the methods in your video. I recently straight-cut a stack of cherry using a 10" x 8 ft. piece of plywood with the stock clamped to it, run through my 12" Steel City table saw. I have a 1948 Red Star Multiplex 40-A RAS that I just completely disassembled restored bolt by bolt. It is really smooth and very powerful. Still getting used to what all I can do with it. It has a 3/4" arbor... Hoping to find shaper and other implements for it. I use arbor spacers for the 12" blades that have 1" arbor. My other saw is a smaller 1977 Craftsman 10" RAS. It also works but has more slop in it than the Red Star. Not sure if I should keep the Red Star or find an old DeWalt like this one... Do you have success finding parts and attachments for yours? Like the shaper head, guard, etc? Thanks and great video here. I am looking at the different fences and methods here. (I love and ride the old racing bikes!)
@@markjohnson9495 The DeWalt shaper guards, molding heads, and molding blades are relatively plentiful and easy to find on eBay. I prefer the Delta-style molding heads and the company, Corob Cutters, still makes molding blades and heads (they originally manufactured the molding knives for the Delta heads). However, can’t say I’ve ever seen heads for 3/4” arbors. I’d ask if Corob could bore one that size for you. Otherwise, perhaps a machine shop could do it (not something I’d do myself if you want it to remain concentric).
Great video Brian. What are the advantages or needs to attach the fence to the backer board? Do you attach your standard crosscut fence to the backer board also?
Thanks for the question. No real need to screw the fence to the backboard other than convenience to hold the fences in place (assuming the backboard is as long as the fence so it can be clamped tight against the table). In addition, the PVC I used for this fence is rather flexible so the screws keep it from bowing where it extends past the main table. The reason my long rip fence is screwed on is because sometimes I flip it the other way around to rip wider pieces. In that case, there would be nothing to support the fence past the normal table (a wood fence might be preferred). Otherwise, I wouldn’t normally screw fences to the back table (being able to swap out fences or change the fence/back table configurations is one of the advantages of the RAS).
The molding head set up like this to do just edge jointing is wasteful of time and money, but I would agree that if one is to set up for general molding head application then edge jointing is a good "might as well" application. Otherwise, just mount a router underneath the long RAS table (extension) and edge-joint with a straight bit; the set up simpler and the edge smoother. One can face joint using the molding head in the regular rip position an inch at a time, but the work cannot be allowed to elevate during jointing.
Thanks for your comment. We frequently have multiple tools that can do a given job and I fully believe in having a diverse set of tools to use. There can be a variety reasons why you might choose one tool over another. However, I respectively disagree that it's a waste of time and money. First, you can often find the molding head and blades used on eBay for less than $40. Once you've made the fences, setup time is less than 10 minutes. The cut quality is quite good. This technique is quieter than a router and the feed rate is as good, or faster. However, the real reason I made this jointer fence is because I'm going to be using it to make flooring from rough cut lumber for an off-grid barn (the one pictured in my avatar). The only power tool I use at that location is RAS that runs off a generator. This setup provides a longer jointer fence than my 60" jointer at home! This is a perfect example of making do with the tools you have available. As far as face-jointing on the RAS goes, you are correct--it can be done. There was a planing head that was available for the RAS. However, if you have a crooked board, it still needs to be put on a sled and the practical length is often limited by the RAS table length. I didn't mention this option because they are difficult to use, very time consuming because of their small diameter, and hard to achieve an acceptable finish with the multiple passes required..
@@brianweekley5700 Actually I use my RAS for molding but have not thought of using the setup for edge jointing. I am not motivated to do so because I have many routers. Only a medium-size router like 10 amp is plenty for edge jointing. I have not used the planer knives for edge jointing, but may for face jointing one inch at a time. In situation where a wide board is only the top of something and only general smoothness is needed this may work.
woodensurfer It’s funny-I call them jointer knives that you use for planing and you call them planer knives that I’m using for jointing. LOL Many people prefer to do all there molding/shaping exclusively with router tables. If you have many routers, I’m interested why and when you use your RAS for molding? I like to use both for that purpose. My choice may depend on the profiles available or the size of the boards (easier for me to use the RAS with longer boards). Anyway, glad to hear someone is using the RAS capability for molding/shaping. It’s an under appreciated tool these days.
@@brianweekley5700 The molding knives on a RAS gives far more possibilities than router bits. The saw can tilt and only a certain segment of the knives are used. Router bits for shaping is only a few common profiles (or extremely expensive). The molding head is much bigger and dissipates heat much better than router bits. But because the cutting radius is so large it is inherently more dangerous and more care needs to be exercised to make it safe. A straight bit is only 3/8 in spinning diameter; it is safer and need less setup considerations. I actually have one large router with variable speed and large enough opening, so I use the common bits with it. I have collected many smaller routers at garage sales at very low prices.
Grizzly tools also. I have 3 sets one for table saw one for ras and one for shapers. that set would probably work great with the molding cutter. but its not worth a shit on a shaper from what i've read.
Thanks for the comment. This was meant as an inexpensive option for a hobbiest that maybe didn't have a jointer. Certainly, if you're a professional, a separate jointer would be preferred. However, it only takes about 5-10 minutes to configure. For those of us that have more than one RAS (four in my case), I could leave one setup as dedicated as a jointer if I chose to.
@@augustwest8559 I once had a cabin in the backwoods of Maine where the only tool I had was a RAS run on a generator. I jointed hundreds of feet of wide pine for flooring using a setup just like this from wood milled on the property. In fact, it’s much easier to joint wide boards (12+ inches) flat on a table than standing them up on end against a tiny fence on a jointer. It worked flawlessly, so you can’t tell me it can’t be used as a jointer. Sometimes you just have to use what you have available. This video documented the building of another such jointer to do the same thing for my barn shown at the top of my page. Just thought people might like to see how it can be done (and it can).
@@brianweekley5700 Your confusing what determines a jointed edge on a board. A flat face to a square edge is what a jointer does better and faster then any tool. I don't doubt you ripped a straight edge on pine for floors. It doesn't sound unreasonable. I would not call that a jointed edge.
@@augustwest8559 Both setups are exactly the same thing! This RAS jointer setup is simply a jointer turned 90 degrees. Both have offset infeed/outfeed tables where the blades are set even with the outfeed table. You do realize I’m not just ripping, yes? The board is kept tight to the outfeed surface in both cases. The RAS table = Jointer Fence. Offset RAS fence with blades = Offset Jointer top with blades. Blades on both are 90 degrees to the fence. Both setups square and straighten a board. The RAS disadvantage is I can’t easily adjust the depth of wood removed per pass. I do have a 60” jointer, but my RAS jointer is 72”-better suited for longer boards.
Woodworking is all about finding a safe, efficient and creative way to accomplish joinery tasks. This video is one such good example.
Thank you. I appreciate the comment.
I have just discovered Brian's channel and love it. Lots of good ideas to improve my older Craftsman RAS. I made my joiner jig with a 1x2x4' board. Ripped the 1x2 half way by just the width of the saw blade. When I use it I screw it to table. Quick and easy to install. I don't have to change the fence.
Thank you! Glad you found some of my videos useful. Hope your edge-jointing works well.
Your Old School approach demonstrates a true fundamental knowledge of the craft. Wonderful to see in this age where so many believe that skill can be bought with just dollars and devices...
Thank you very much. Totally agree that skill must be based on fundamentals!
Excellent design and demonstration, Brian! Thanks so much for this. I really like that you showed your extra long rip fence, board buddies and micro-adjuster all in actual use.
You are making a great contribution to the RAS user community!
Thanks, Rush. I try to show how different things are used together. For this project, I added threaded inserts in my regular back table so I could easily attach board buddies to that too.
Yes...I concur
It's good to see someone who knows and demonstrates what the RAS can do. I've always been a big fan and user of the RAS. Excellent content, sir!
Thank you very much. It’s an under-appreciated tool by many.
Thank you, I just bought a RAS and this is the type of content I’m searching for.
Glad you found it useful. I have a few videos about the RAS you might find interesting.
an RAS!
@@Silverback1969MoonLandingLies LOL! Yes, indeed!
@@brianweekley5700 ICSTWOA!
This just solved my push stick problem.
Tx
Push stick problem?
I've always ripped with a trip of wood. The issue has always been both pieces don't pass the blade at the end of the cut only the piece I'm pushing with the push stick which often leaves blade marks on the peice not pushed by stick. Your push plank solves this by ensuring both sides of the cut clear the blade especially when ripping a thin strip.
Thank you.
Ahh, the push board shown. My latest video is dedicated to that… ua-cam.com/video/uOP3sKpD_yc/v-deo.htmlsi=67fYYS2cEWVNh_-8
Thank you, I have a DeWalt jointer/shaper attachment and a molding attachment for mine. This was very helpful and I will need to purchase a book on how to use the molding cutter. Excellent video.
Thanks. I highly recommend the book “How to Master the Radial Arm Saw” by Wally Kunkel. It includes a lot of information on jointing, shaping, and molding.
Hey, Mr. Weekley, I watch your videos monthly, and I love them.
Thank you very much. Glad you enjoy them!
Where have I been !! Loved it!
Thanks!
One of the very few times I have seen someone (other than myself) using the "Board Buddies" anti-kickback rollers! Great!
Thanks. They definitely work well with certain applications.
Brian, Thank you so much for linking me to this video on our wonderful forum! You are such a talented craftsman! I try to watch ALL your videos. Thank you for spending so much time doing what you do. I am soooo envious of your "Super" MBF!!! and its set up possibilities....how nice!!! L.E.D. lights, Micro Adjuster, Beautiful cabinet, Mr Saw Dust tables and extensions, etc.....
Thanks, Leo. That means a lot. I do have several future RAS videos planned when I have the time.
You’re even ripping on your RAS! Good for you. So many channels avoid ripping and warn others not to rip. You appear quite comfortable and confident.
Thank you. I love ripping on my RAS and do iit all the time. Using proper setup and technique, it can be done safely.
I much prefer ripping with an RAS than a table saw. Set up properly it's safer, I don't care what those other guys say.
Dude, you have the COOLEST radial arm saw setup I've ever seen. When I grow up (i.e. move to Idaho and replace my inaccurate 1987 Craftsman RAS with a 1950s DeWalt) I want to be just like you. :)
I don’t know if it’s the coolest setup, but they are definitely cool saws. Thanks!
I am a big fan of the RAS. I own several Craftsman 12" versions. I found that the carriages will swap out from one to the other just by removing the stop bolt at the front end of the arm. This allow you to keep a rip blade or dado set mounted up without the hassle of changing blades. I give you great creds for your careful and analytical approach to this operation. Well done!
Thanks. Or, have multiple RAS’s setup for different operations. On the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum, we often say you need more than one saw! LOL
Nice setup 👍 love that extended back table.
Thank you! The extra long back table and fence comes in great for ripping things like plywood.
Holy crap, there is so much brilliant stuff in this video! I love the board buddies, and the led lighting under the gantry! I've seen the jointer attachment in a video elsewhere, but I've never seen using the sawblade itself to do so, that's brilliant.
At around 9:23 he mentions the thickness is limited by the motor clearance. This could be overcome by turning the head to rip in the outfeed instead with a more modular table setup, moving the fence out to accommodate the offset.
Thanks. Glad you liked the video. Using the blade in out-rip would give you more motor clearance, but most saws won't allow you to move the blade to, or beyond the fence in that configuration. You would need to move the fence further forward. However, I rarely need to edge joint boards thicker than 2-1/2". I have a separate video on installing the LED lights on the arm and many other RAS videos you might find interesting.
I like your jigs, and the push tool you used! Simple, effective, and pushes both sides of the board through the blade! When used with a fence, this is genius!
Thank you. A push board is the safe way to push wood past the blade when ripping on a RAS.
thanks for showing, I know my RAS will do this I have a bunch of corban cutters just never used one. however i believe you saws feed direction is differnt than mine. I may go back to the drawing board on the fence I made to use them with.
I do appreciate the lesson. if someone doesn't teach this then its a lost art.
Thanks. The feed direction should be the same for any RAS (make sure the blades and cutter head are installed in the correct orientation). I strongly suggest buying a copy of the book “How to Master the Radial Arm Saw” by Wally Kunkel. A large portion of the book is dedicated to molding and shaping with the RAS (in addition to many other operations).
@@brianweekley5700 I probably have it, unless its paper backed I don't read very often.
Just look a the pictures.
I've got dyslexia hence the name bob,
no matter how you turn it its always bob.
qoq dod pop bob . you just have to change your point of view! but you'll see bob in there somewhere.
RAS is truly a multi function tool. Safety first! Appreciate you demonstrating that in your setups
Thank you.
I liked this video a lot. I’ve been wanting to buy an RAS for a long time. Now I will. Thanks
Thank you. There are many cool things you can do with a RAS.
buy a book on radial arm saws and read it first. don't make the mistake i did and rip the wrong direction your first time, i didn't get hurt but i bent a new blade and soiled my shorts.
the older machines like he has are the best, but my newer version craftsman works just fine.
watch a lot of stuff and read a bunch about safety. Buy some board buddies!
Someone gave me their old Craftsman RAS. I'd been thinking of getting rid of it until I learned in the past week just how versatile it could be, and now I want to get it properly set up. Your RAS setup is gorgeous.
Thank you. Consider joining the "DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum". Even though you have a Craftsman, we welcome all users and it's a great resource for any questions you have about it. Lots of very good tips and information. Also, buy a copy of the book: "How to Master the Radial Arm Saw" by Wally Kunkel. It's a must have if you want to use your saw safely and get the most out of it.
I just bought an old dewalt radial saw and this is another good use for it I hadn't thought of great video I think I'll subscribe
Thank you. The old DeWalt saws are great. I have many other radial arm saw related videos you might be interested in.
Great videos.
You have the PERFECT formula
Thanks, I appreciate the comment!
I'm lusting after that Delta jointer....
It is nice. You can find an old one and restore it too. ua-cam.com/video/BZ_Lbiw0K0w/v-deo.html
A rely informative video. I do like the Dewalt RAS. I have a toolkraft i purchased over 40 years ago. it is good to see people still using RAS's
Thanks. They are still good machines to use!
Wow, after just one video I subscribed. I have to adopt RAS attachments and techniques. Thank you. I do not have a jointer. You have taken my RAS to new levels. This will be some of my winter projects.
Oh and I hit the Bell!
Thank you. The RAS is an under appreciated tool. I do have a few more RAS related videos planned when I have time.
@@brianweekley5700 as well, I'm really glad I found your channel. I'm soaking up all of what you've shared and hope to put it to use soon. Please keep the videos coming as time permits. Thanks for sharing!
Rob Johnston Thank you. I have more coming, time permitting.
Thank you, I acquired a one owner 1969 model craftsman RAS that is 100% complete and in mint condition. But did not realize everything you could do with it.
Yes, there are a lot of things you can do with it! LOL
Drill press, funny you can search for books on them. I own 2 of them. And I haven't done everything you can with one. they used to make a router mount for them too, if you can find one now.
I was a bounty hunter for older Sears/ Craftsman radial arm saws- a CPSC recall event forced Emerson- the manufacturer- to pay a $100 fee for every returned motor assy. Harvesting close on to 20 or so of them, I found without exception the blades that were used were suited for tablesaws, not radials. The hook angle was always running about 15 degrees positive, far too aggressive for the saw type. Being an experienced user, I can safely deal with blades of about a 10 degree positive hook without issue but for a tyro, your Diablo recommendation is spot on. I have a third variation on edge jointing but a textural explanation would be wanting, so I'll leave that one alone but I do want to mention I scored one of the rare "Rotary Plane" accessory items branded for DeWalt and the thing is superb for surfacing/ thicknessing stock and odd stuff like beveling threshold strips, etc.
I'm gratified to see I have lived long enough to see something of a renaissance of the radial arm saw machine tool, it has always been victim of operator ignorance and abuse, and is one of the most useful machine tools ever conceived.
Thanks, Hank. Learned a lot from you and the DeWalt forum.
@@brianweekley5700 Thanks Brian, always happy to see a new guru emerge from the woodpile. ☺
It’s great seeing both of you guys from the forum! The knowledge shared from there is wonderfully important to counterbalance a lot of the misinformation that is so prevalent here on YT. Great content Brian. I sub’d.
@@SuperBardley "I saw it on UA-cam" is almost like the famous last words a person can say before trying something fatal they watched there and took it to be correct. ☺
You sir are a RAS guru! Love it!
Thank you, Maybe competent, but not a guru. I’m still learning all the time!
Very nice. I like the idea. I just got a RAS in Oct 2019 and Im building up the table and extra sides too, and was thinking of adding something for jointing, and this really gave me a great idea. Thanks. Very awesome. While I have a jointer, this idea is great add-on for my RAS. Awesome.
Thank you. If you just got a RAS, you'll find it's useful for many things!
Excellent Video. Very Educational. Thanks.
Thank you very much.
I’ve been trying to find more uses for my craftsman RAS. Great demonstration! I wonder if I could find any leaf guards for it 🧐
Thanks. I don't use the leaf guards. They make it much harder to change blades (which I do a lot). I can't see what they actually protect the user from (just keep your hand out of the blade path at all times)!
This is all fine and good, assuming you can find the attachments needed. In as much as I can't, I'll have to just buy a jointer. My RAS works fine, just aren't many attachments available for it...at least, not in my area. Okay, now the 2nd way I could do...wish I had seen that first, lol.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, the accessories are still easily available. I just looked and saw five shaper guards for sale on eBay (although some unreasonably priced). Corob Cutters still manufactures new molding heads and knives, but used Delta/Rockwell ones can easily be found on eBay too. Really not a problem. Also, if you’re not a member already, join the “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum”. We have members who frequently have accessories for sale if you ask.
@@brianweekley5700 I saw guards for Craftsman, not for DeWalt...I mean, I assume the cutters and heads wouldn't matter as long as they fit a 5/8ths arbor, but would the guards themselves fit?
www.ebay.com/itm/196572647960?_nkw=dewalt+shaper+guard&itmmeta=01J5VV723TRVST01S2HVQHSH0R&hash=item2dc4a49218:g:w-QAAOSwxvlmxUWn&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKl%2B9N6pCqiJKtSzOXcwutHCAgPmVowneiau7k5J6MxdbZkVWeNQQ9WyCxhH60MDBKIWP1MDoe4BkmnhB8wchsgkdFHt5rVZJQWj1XOH0cQaHzaNilqdfQHGOLdy2CQOiVU4YCRJ0vdE94E9tVzBKEWa2xR4VJbqYBwnX0mkKKp9%2BQriwqhclO3IQfSIbI1SwFcVjUjKkXRfC4s1v9CnghOGTt3ngCdADl%2FjMn2E50%2FspCqPAJymWnbFR7HtMYpy1uI%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_yhnPuuZA
If you have a DeWalt, you need the DeWalt shaper guard. You are correct-any 5/8” arbor molding head will fit any 5/8” arbor saw. However, the Delta/Rockwell head is better than a Craftsman (greater mass).
Thanks for this. I copied your dust collector idea and it works great. The molding head seems like alot of work to joint compared to the sawblade option. I might make one of these fences for mine.
Making a fence for either the molding head or saw blade is basically the same. The molding head works great. Glad the dust collection is helpful. Thanks!
Tengo una magna sawsmith ras,que tan buena es?yo no se mucho de marcas,gracias
👍Tu vieja maquina aserradora es alta precisión, esta moviendo todo a lados y estás cuidando muy bien. Gracias a tu video, fin de semana
Gracias.
Thank you for the Video! I have a 59 DeWalt and love the table and base setup. Can you show how you have the machine setup? I am using the Mr. Sawdust top. Thank you!
Thanks. I'm not sure what you mean by machine setup. I have another video that describes how to setup and adjust/calibrate the saw ua-cam.com/video/EQ_HXSuh1PU/v-deo.html. I hope that is helpful.
@@brianweekley5700 more on your cabinet, Mr. Saw dust has the setup of the saw. Great stuff!
@@michaelreynaud I have a separate video on making my cabinet ua-cam.com/video/IXoJA70e0JA/v-deo.html and another on a dust collection system ua-cam.com/video/bjSa8YU9e8Y/v-deo.html. Check out my channel--many of my videos feature the RAS in use.
How did you go about attaching the light under the top of the DeWalt saw?
The LED strips have an adhesive back. Clean the metal with acetone first to remove any oil. If you find the adhesive doesn’t stick good enough, try Gorilla two-sided tape. That stuff works great. You can get a better view of the lights in two of my other videos: Restoration of Vintage Radial Arm Saw: 1957 DeWalt MBF” and “LED Task Lighting for the Radial Arm Saw”.
ua-cam.com/video/6YC3EUyZK4E/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/FN8nawcodjA/v-deo.html
Thank you for sharing. RAS is a very under-appreciated tool. Too many believe they're dangerous, (any tool can be dangerous). Cheers :)
Thank you. Totally agree!
To do a rip cut you have to have the majority of the blade exposed with no guard. Really looks safe.
Great video! What model dewalt is that one?
Thank you! It’s a DeWalt MBF, but I do have a newer motor installed on it. I have an earlier video about it titled “Restoration of Vintage Radial Arm Saw: ‘57 DeWalt MBF”.
ua-cam.com/video/FN8nawcodjA/v-deo.html
Would you mind sharing your build plans on the board buddy with fence set up you have in this video please?
Things like this are saw specific. Installation of board buddies depends on the thickness of the front and back tables and accommodate the height of your fence. You have to work out what works best for your saw. I do recommend buying a copy of the book “How to Master the Radial Arm Saw” by Wally Kunkel. This describes how to make a great table for the RAS (known as the Mr. Sawdust table).
Sweet setup.
Thank you.
YOU ARE AWESOME. jUST GOT MYSELF A RAS
Enjoy your RAS! A lot of things you can do with it. Just make sure you set it up correctly and work safe!
your work is fantastic
Thank you very much!
Another great video on the radial arm saw. I've learned from watching that. Thanks.
Thank you. I’m glad it’s helpful.
I really enjoyed your video and just now subscribed! Do you have a video on how to make your micro adjuster? Thanks Jim
Thank you! Yes, I have a video on the micro adjuster “Micro-adjuster for Radial Arm Saw”.
ua-cam.com/video/rYe-stxDZds/v-deo.html
Brian what do you think about the planer attachment for the RAS? or the Wagner one? Also why do you need a jig to joint boards with a sawblade? Cant you just use a planer blade and just rip 1/32 in the normal way with the straight edge against the fence and the blade to the outside of the board?
I've never used the planer attachment, but it seems like that would be very time consuming having to move the board to cut a small swath with each pass. Yes, you could also use a jointing sled against a long fence to cut the outside of the board with a normal saw blade. Using it this way (like a jointer) avoids the need for a sled and can deal with crooked boards easier.
Love it
@@williamtyree3896 Thanks!
I wish there were more instruction on proper use of the Radial Arm Saw so people wouldn't be so afraid of them. It is a great tool as long is it is used correctly.
Absolutely. The RAS is bad-mouthed by people who have crappy models or by those who don't know how to use one correctly.
The Mr Sawdust book is full of proper use instructions for using the RAS. www.mrsawdust.com/
Nicely done! Thanks you.
Great video! I’ve got a 60s vintage Craftsman RAS and I love it. It’s tough and true. Could you share where you got the yellow wheel clamps?
Thanks. The yellow hold down wheels are called board buddies (Woodstock W1104).
Do you find your ras goes out of alignment quite easily? I have a shopmate that I know isn't as good as a dewalt but if I move the arm and rotte the head, it won't cut a straight cross cut until i have adjusted it again.
How easily a machine goes out of alignment is going to depend on the quality of the machine and how well it's adjusted. Radial arm saws do have many moving parts that need to be properly aligned/adjusted The older DeWalt's are known for their precision and my works very well. If you haven't seen it, please check out my video on radial arm saw alignment.
HI THERE: WHERE DID YOU BUY THOSE HOLD DOWN CLAMPS WITH WHEELS (YELLOW WHEELS). THANKS
They’re called “Board Buddies”. You can buy them at Grizzly tools, but often find them cheaper on eBay. The green ones are free-wheeling hold downs (either direction), the yellow ones only feed left to right (generally most useful for RAS or TS), and orange one only feed right to left (only useful on RAS in out-rip mode).
@@brianweekley5700 Thank you very much! Got it. Enjoy your day and be safe. Where are you based? We live in Pennsylvania
I’m currently in CT, but lived in PA for awhile-about 30 miles north of Philly.
I'll have to add that cutting head to my Ebay shopping list!
The RAS is the third saw I had ever used. The first was a hand saw I found in the basement when I was nine, second was a sabre saw since I could only afford one power tool when I was 15 and the third was a monster DeWalt I learned to love in Advanced Individual Training in the Army. Who new 20 years later I would inherit one.
1. I also have the MBF and have watched many of your videos over and over absorbing what I can. I like the way you do the videos and also how you go about making the different accessories. And that brings me to my questions or requests if you will.
2. Would it be possible to expand on the making of the rip fence to also include how you chose to mount Board Buddies?
3. Could you possibly explain the process of measuring for the table bracket bolt holes?
Thanks for making these videos!
Thank you for the kind comments. My long rip table/rip fence was made exactly the same as shown in my video "Radial Arm Saw: Tables and Fences (Part 2)"--just longer. It's 6 feet long (decided only because of the piece of plywood I had handy). The board buddies are attached with 1/4-20 screws. I installed threaded inserts in the table to screw them into. For placement, I considered the rip position and molding guard and placed the board buddies as close as possible, but still allowing enough room so I could perform all functions. Note that the long rip fence is typically used with stable boards (e.g, sheet goods). If boards are bowed, the long fence could cause pinching at the blade, so sometimes it's better to use the standard fence in that case. For table mounting holes (MBF?), I suggest joining the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum. In the FAQs section, there are some table drawings with dimensions you can print. Unfortunately, It's not something I can easily access right now due to travel. I take it you don't have the original table for reference?
@@brianweekley5700 No, unfortunately I do not. I am a member of the forum though. I will have to delve a bit deeper into it for the drawings. Speaking of drawings, I have not had enough time to thoroughly go through all the comments and such on your channel. Can you point me to some of yours? The miter and bevel gauges come to mind, but I know there are others. I am coming close to retirement and hope to spend more time setting up and using my shop. Back to the Board Buddies. What determined the height?
@@brianweekley5700 When I re-looked at my original questions, I saw that I really only asked two, but labeled them as three. It took me this long to realize what the third question was supposed to be. Kind of goes with the plans questions. Do you have the printer files and cad drawings for the plug and hose adapter?
Thanks again!
Thanks for the great video and it has given me another option for edge planning.
Not sure this is the place to ask but I am unable to find anything online. Am looking at a safe way to make thin stock 1/8in or less. Table saws seem to have lots of ways to make it but nothing for RAS. Only way I could think to do it was to use a sacrificial fence, set the saw up to rip and close to the fence and rip that way. Is it safe to rip such thin pieces like this? Bit afraid to have the thin stock get wedged between the blade and fence. Thoughts? Advice?
Thank you very much. Your question about how to rip very thin strips on a RAS is a good one. The trick is to not cut all the way through the wood (leave a sliver of wood remaining). That way, there is no small piece of loose wood that will bind, break, or shoot out. There’s a video on UA-cam called “The Radial Arm Saw (Safer and Better than a Table Saw)”. In that video at about 28 min and 15 sec, he shows a very good example on how to rip thin strips.
@@brianweekley5700 Thanks for the quick reply!! Will take a look at your suggestion. Hopefully I can report back that things went well and I still have all my fingers!!
I'm sure I'll have more questions in the future so hope you're ok with that!
Keep up the good work and keep the videos coming!!
This saw does it all. You understand now why the tool industry had to kill it off. Look at all the tools one has to buy now just to replace the radial arm saw. You gotta call it dangerous, dangerous to them making money.
Yes, it is a versatile machine. However, it can be dangerous--mostly from people who do not use it correctly (not setting it up properly, not using it properly, or using the wrong blade on it). It does have many moving parts/adjustments that need to be setup/calibrated. Unfortunately, many people do not learn to use it or take the time to set it up.
I've been looking for sevral years I want to see more molding head cutters set up and ran.
I've yet to see somone use it as a drill press but I have a chuck for it, oh and sander. Not that I need I own a 12" disk sander.
I have a few other videos showing some limited use of the molding head on the RAS and plan to make some more. Two that I can think of offhand are “Make a Ski Rack for Your Truck/Vehicle” and “New Tops for B&D Workmate”.
ua-cam.com/video/aRi7n26BSqA/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/Vl1Gz9DsBys/v-deo.html
Clean and thorough, very good video! What year is your DeWalt? Mine is a '56.
Thank you very much. That one is a 1957. I have a previous video on the restoration of that saw.
Amazing saws and no need for a table saw . Best are commercial grade The cheap 10" Radials give the saws a bad name.😎
Absolutely! In fact, I’m seriously considering getting rid of my table saw.
Dear Brian, excellent video showing yet another great use for the RAS. The board buddies: Are they for pushing a board down into the table to keep it flat or pull it towards the fence? They look like a great idea. Where did you get them? Cheers.
Thank you. The board buddies both hold the wood down and pull it to the fence. Note that they come in three different versions (yellow, green, and orange). I find the yellow ones are best for a radial arm saw (one way direction when pushing wood from right to left). I bought mine from eBay, but you can buy them at Grizzly (if you do a search, you can find other sources).
Thanks for that, they really look like an essential piece of kit if you don’t have the anti-kickback pawls. They also keep the work flat which would be great for a thin piece with a bend in it.
I was wondering if you have elsewhere demonstrated some details about your table with the extension arms. I like the idea and with your permission would like to make one similar.
You uses a radial arm saw a survived! Congrates not many do.
Thanks for the comment.
Great job on that, Brian. Now I see one of the reasons for the micro-adjuster. Do you have a planer attachment?
Thanks. If you’re referring to the planer attachment for the RAS, no I don’t have one. It looks like it would be painfully slow to use. I’d prefer to use a hand plane instead if I didn’t already have a power planer.
@@brianweekley5700 I was thinking of the planer head with four carbide cutters that is used like you used the head here. I'm going to try mine on some rough lumber.
Mine came with one, but I have not had a need to try it since I have a planer. There are videos on here using it though
@@talltimberswoodshop7552 I was looking at the planer attachment heads as well. Did you get around to try it out?
@@phillipphall7802 Yes, I used in on some rough lumber that was wider than my 6" table top jointer. It worked pretty good, but not perfect. Still had to use a hand plane to touch it up. You have to wedge it so it won't wobble also.
I was not clear exactly how the perpendicularity of the spindle was adjusted to the table surface. I would guess that you swept it in with a dial indicator attached to the motor spindle, but there are certainly other ways to make the adjustments.
Radial arm saws and shapers have been given bad press over the years as being too dangerous to have in a shop. Your video clearly demonstrates that these machines can be operated safely using correct procedures and set ups. Injuries usually come when these procedures are bypassed to save a little time. Table saws, by far, cause the greatest number of amputations yet almost every video I have seen shows the operators pushing boards through with their hands. A friend of mine cut off his index finger in a jointer. All of these machines can be dangerous if not operated in a safe manner.
SEAN
Thanks for the comment. I have another video titled “Radial Arm Saw Alignment/Calibration”. Once the saw is properly setup/aligned, the arbor will be perpendicular once you rotate the head to the vertical position (there is a set index to lock the head vertical). With the shaper guard installed and the saw used properly, I believe it is a safe tool to operate-at least no more dangerous than other power tools.
Or simply nail a straight board to your crooked stock to use as a straight edge against the fence and run it through your table saw once. Jointers are slow and obsolete.
Thanks for your comment. Sure, that’s another way to straighten an edge if some holes in your stock are acceptable. However, I disagree with your statement that jointers are obsolete. For fine woodworking, you certainly can’t flatten the surface of a board on a table saw or a radial arm saw! P.S. I like the vintage road bikes on your channel (I cycle too).
@@brianweekley5700 I do like the methods in your video. I recently straight-cut a stack of cherry using a 10" x 8 ft. piece of plywood with the stock clamped to it, run through my 12" Steel City table saw. I have a 1948 Red Star Multiplex 40-A RAS that I just completely disassembled restored bolt by bolt. It is really smooth and very powerful. Still getting used to what all I can do with it. It has a 3/4" arbor... Hoping to find shaper and other implements for it. I use arbor spacers for the 12" blades that have 1" arbor. My other saw is a smaller 1977 Craftsman 10" RAS. It also works but has more slop in it than the Red Star. Not sure if I should keep the Red Star or find an old DeWalt like this one... Do you have success finding parts and attachments for yours? Like the shaper head, guard, etc? Thanks and great video here. I am looking at the different fences and methods here. (I love and ride the old racing bikes!)
@@markjohnson9495 The DeWalt shaper guards, molding heads, and molding blades are relatively plentiful and easy to find on eBay. I prefer the Delta-style molding heads and the company, Corob Cutters, still makes molding blades and heads (they originally manufactured the molding knives for the Delta heads). However, can’t say I’ve ever seen heads for 3/4” arbors. I’d ask if Corob could bore one that size for you. Otherwise, perhaps a machine shop could do it (not something I’d do myself if you want it to remain concentric).
Forget jointing, I had no idea a radial arm saw could be used for all those other things!
One of my favorite tools!
@@brianweekley5700 I'm gonna have to pick one up someday
@@benofalltrades Check out the “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum”. Lots of great info and advice about RASs (hint: you want an old, cast iron DeWalt)!
@@brianweekley5700 good to know, thank you!
Great video Brian. What are the advantages or needs to attach the fence to the backer board? Do you attach your standard crosscut fence to the backer board also?
Thanks for the question. No real need to screw the fence to the backboard other than convenience to hold the fences in place (assuming the backboard is as long as the fence so it can be clamped tight against the table). In addition, the PVC I used for this fence is rather flexible so the screws keep it from bowing where it extends past the main table. The reason my long rip fence is screwed on is because sometimes I flip it the other way around to rip wider pieces. In that case, there would be nothing to support the fence past the normal table (a wood fence might be preferred). Otherwise, I wouldn’t normally screw fences to the back table (being able to swap out fences or change the fence/back table configurations is one of the advantages of the RAS).
The molding head set up like this to do just edge jointing is wasteful of time and money, but I would agree that if one is to set up for general molding head application then edge jointing is a good "might as well" application.
Otherwise, just mount a router underneath the long RAS table (extension) and edge-joint with a straight bit; the set up simpler and the edge smoother.
One can face joint using the molding head in the regular rip position an inch at a time, but the work cannot be allowed to elevate during jointing.
Thanks for your comment. We frequently have multiple tools that can do a given job and I fully believe in having a diverse set of tools to use. There can be a variety reasons why you might choose one tool over another. However, I respectively disagree that it's a waste of time and money. First, you can often find the molding head and blades used on eBay for less than $40. Once you've made the fences, setup time is less than 10 minutes. The cut quality is quite good. This technique is quieter than a router and the feed rate is as good, or faster.
However, the real reason I made this jointer fence is because I'm going to be using it to make flooring from rough cut lumber for an off-grid barn (the one pictured in my avatar). The only power tool I use at that location is RAS that runs off a generator. This setup provides a longer jointer fence than my 60" jointer at home! This is a perfect example of making do with the tools you have available.
As far as face-jointing on the RAS goes, you are correct--it can be done. There was a planing head that was available for the RAS. However, if you have a crooked board, it still needs to be put on a sled and the practical length is often limited by the RAS table length. I didn't mention this option because they are difficult to use, very time consuming because of their small diameter, and hard to achieve an acceptable finish with the multiple passes required..
@@brianweekley5700
Actually I use my RAS for molding but have not thought of using the setup for edge jointing. I am not motivated to do so because I have many routers. Only a medium-size router like 10 amp is plenty for edge jointing.
I have not used the planer knives for edge jointing, but may for face jointing one inch at a time. In situation where a wide board is only the top of something and only general smoothness is needed this may work.
woodensurfer It’s funny-I call them jointer knives that you use for planing and you call them planer knives that I’m using for jointing. LOL
Many people prefer to do all there molding/shaping exclusively with router tables. If you have many routers, I’m interested why and when you use your RAS for molding? I like to use both for that purpose. My choice may depend on the profiles available or the size of the boards (easier for me to use the RAS with longer boards). Anyway, glad to hear someone is using the RAS capability for molding/shaping. It’s an under appreciated tool these days.
@@brianweekley5700
The molding knives on a RAS gives far more possibilities than router bits. The saw can tilt and only a certain segment of the knives are used.
Router bits for shaping is only a few common profiles (or extremely expensive).
The molding head is much bigger and dissipates heat much better than router bits. But because the cutting radius is so large it is inherently more dangerous and more care needs to be exercised to make it safe. A straight bit is only 3/8 in spinning diameter; it is safer and need less setup considerations.
I actually have one large router with variable speed and large enough opening, so I use the common bits with it.
I have collected many smaller routers at garage sales at very low prices.
woodensurfer Good job. Totally agree!
Disregard my question - found the Board Buddies on Amazon
Grizzly tools also. I have 3 sets one for table saw one for ras and one for shapers. that set would probably work great with the molding cutter. but its not worth a shit on a shaper from what i've read.
not quite...
Please elaborate or your comment is meaningless.
Nice set up but I couldn't feed my family making all those changes all day sorry
Thanks for the comment. This was meant as an inexpensive option for a hobbiest that maybe didn't have a jointer. Certainly, if you're a professional, a separate jointer would be preferred. However, it only takes about 5-10 minutes to configure. For those of us that have more than one RAS (four in my case), I could leave one setup as dedicated as a jointer if I chose to.
Silly video
OK, but works great for those who don't have a dedicated jointer!
@@brianweekley5700 A radial arm saw does one thing. Cross cut wood better then anything. Every day all day.
It's not even close to a jointer.
@@augustwest8559 I once had a cabin in the backwoods of Maine where the only tool I had was a RAS run on a generator. I jointed hundreds of feet of wide pine for flooring using a setup just like this from wood milled on the property. In fact, it’s much easier to joint wide boards (12+ inches) flat on a table than standing them up on end against a tiny fence on a jointer. It worked flawlessly, so you can’t tell me it can’t be used as a jointer. Sometimes you just have to use what you have available. This video documented the building of another such jointer to do the same thing for my barn shown at the top of my page. Just thought people might like to see how it can be done (and it can).
@@brianweekley5700 Your confusing what determines a jointed edge on a board.
A flat face to a square edge is what a jointer does better and faster then any tool.
I don't doubt you ripped a straight edge on pine for floors. It doesn't sound unreasonable.
I would not call that a jointed edge.
@@augustwest8559 Both setups are exactly the same thing! This RAS jointer setup is simply a jointer turned 90 degrees. Both have offset infeed/outfeed tables where the blades are set even with the outfeed table. You do realize I’m not just ripping, yes? The board is kept tight to the outfeed surface in both cases. The RAS table = Jointer Fence. Offset RAS fence with blades = Offset Jointer top with blades. Blades on both are 90 degrees to the fence. Both setups square and straighten a board. The RAS disadvantage is I can’t easily adjust the depth of wood removed per pass. I do have a 60” jointer, but my RAS jointer is 72”-better suited for longer boards.