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The best I can think to do in that situation would be to repair it with resin. A two part epoxy would fill the void and seal the crack. Some are marketed as more food safe than others. You may need to make some "dams" out of blue tape to keep the epoxy where it needs to be. Super glue is another option if the void is small enough. The gel style super glue will fill better than the thinner stuff. Good luck and thanks for watching!

Thank you for watching and for the kind words.

Did not project for this one...always learning! =)

nevermind i see the amazon link in another comment

Glad you saw it, thanks for watching! That blade is still treating me well.

Hey there, thanks for watching and glad to hear you are getting into the hobby. Typically a food safe mineral oil is the way to go for a food safe project. There are also food safe waxes you can use as a second step for more shine and water protection. I personally like Howard's brand products for cutting boards/butcher blocks.

I completely agree! I never thought it worth making a drill press table for it, but I do usually have a piece of plywood screwed on from underneath both to support a bigger workpiece and avoid the metal table scratching things up. I got this press years ago for $65 so the low cost is a big factor for me. I'm probably do for an upgrade though. I'd love a table with a precision crank. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Hey! Thanks for checking out the channel and the support. Feel free to ask any questions whatsoever 🙂

Thanks for the kind words and for watching! This is the blade I went with. amzn.to/4gWiHAs The most important thing to note is that the stock blade that comes with it is horrible enough to convince you that the saw is horrible. I suspect most blades other than the stock that fit the machine properly will be a huge improvement.

Thanks for watching! I hope it was helpful 🙂

Yeah, it would be a bummer to have to rely on free material. Good thing that doesn't apply to us. What we said in the video was that using free material we prep ourselves is a way to achieve better margins, which is always something to strive for as a business. Glad to hear you have some free white oak yourself - always good to have some on the shelf. Thanks for watching!

Hah! Yeah it looks even closer on camera for some reason. Admittedly it would have been better to have the foresight to drill those holes earlier. I forgot about that front brace but it may have been better to do it in place after everything else was assembled. Anyhow glad this helped you! Handles are stupidly expensive usually.

Thanks for watching! Just a heads up, after I assembled mine everything looked normal but it acted like it had no power. I had to move the motor over to get more tension on the pulley and it was fine. I think the manual even warned that I might have to do that after shipping.

Thank you for watching! I'm glad it was helpful. After a couple of small issues that made me doubt this machine, I am really digging it now. Still haven't done much scrolling but it's resawing the full capacity reliably with the new blade.

@@ArtisansAndArthropods actually perfect as ill be using it for the exact same reason you are.

Unless you can find a phrase such as "food safe for indirect contact" on the label, I would assume that it is not food safe. That is just my opinion though. From the pics I could find, I did not see anything like that on the label of this product. If I can find it in person I will try to check :)

@@ArtisansAndArthropods Thank you for your response.

😂 yeah we prefer lights that don't flash for woodworking but that does sound like a niche someone could hit.

Thanks for watching and glad it was helpful! I'm traveling currently but will measure the the upper part for ya when I'm home again. This model is intended to be free standing, so I'm not sure that it will be very easy to mount to a work bench without making some brackets. What made me pull the trigger on this one was mainly the resaw capacity for the price. It runs very well with a thicker low tension blade.

@@ArtisansAndArthropods What resaw blade did you end up getting? I think it has no tension lever if I recall, so hoping blade changes are not too hard (will be my only bandsaw for a while)

@@ArtisansAndArthropods Agree, great review, and thanks for warning on belt tensioning. I tended to do roughouts in basswood for carving (before I "lost" my saw) so the 6" plus thickness capability is what is attracting me to this one too.

@@dankehoe1632 I ended up getting this one and have been enjoying it a lot. Much straighter cuts and less cranking to get it up to tension. amzn.to/47gvtFy

And yes, just a tensioning knob on this one. The blade changes aren't too bad. If you like to scroll with the bandsaw and do lots of blade changes it could be worth finding one with a lever. I'm resawing most of the time on mine so relatively few blade changes for me. You can always use a clamp to keep the blade on the top pulley while positioning it around the other. Thanks again for the kind words, I hope you enjoy the saw if you end up purchasing it.

What I had in mind when purchasing this item was quick and accurate angle changes for seamless batch builds. That was the dream and this thing definitely delivers. One thing I want to mention though is that I have a smaller table saw and the way this one is weighted makes it tough for me to keep it in the tracks (too much weight hangs off the left of my saw's table surface.). So if you have a cabinet saw or some kind of table saw with a larger surface the kreg miter gauge will likely be perfect. The angles were dead on for me out of the box and I can switch between them with hard stops. If you have a smaller saw like me, a telescoping or smaller overall miter gauge may be a better choice. I have also heard that some of these are not dead on out of the box but mine was perfect.

Thanks for the kind words and the tip about the metal roof edging. I have definitely flattened my share of those cardboard braces so it would be good to have to have some more permanent ones. The cardboard can suck the oil out of an item hit with oil-based finish so I will sometimes blue tape/clear tape them as well. I have not made any templates for this particular item because we don't sell them online, just at shows. Some solid router templates could really speed things up and make the boards identical though. Thanks for asking about the craft fairs, not many people do. We've sold a fair number of these (10ish?) at shows but usually also have more traditional rectangle boards alongside them that sell at about the same rate. These are a small/medium size so I will price them as low as $25, though at the right show they will sell for $40. Most of the shows we've done so far are in MA but all around the state. It's tough for us as woodworkers...we are too honest to be salesmen! 😂

There are machines that focus a laser beam to burn into wood based on input from the user. They were once expensive and innefficient but nowadays they are more affordable and very powerful. The laser in this video is an old kit build that was sophisticated at the time but is now quite obsolete. The laser in our newer videos is called the xTool M1. It is miles ahead of the one from this video but now arguably outdated. That's the way it goes..Anyhow just search the web for laser cutter/engraver and try to learn what is out there

Thanks for watching, I'm glad it helped! Yeah, a new pair of handles near me was more than half the cost of a brand new wheelbarrow so I was very motivated to make them. Ideally I would store mine inside but I do not have a space for it right now. This is our first and now "beater" wheelbarrow hah. The cedar (while weaker than most woods) should prove very rot resistant and may end up giving a longer life than the previous pine handles that it came with. If you plan to store yours inside anyway you could use a stronger wood. That said, the cedar handles I made are still working well through high use. I like having a thicker handle more than I thought I would and they are super smooth with the linseed oil on them. Let me know if you have any trouble with the build =)

Lasers have come so far in just the 8 or so years since we got our first one! I'd definitely recommend one to anyone. If you have a little woodworking skill and some tools, you can prepare material for yourself and become a miniature factory.

Hello there, thanks so much for watching and for the kind words. So before getting into anything else I will say that plywood is tricky. Most people think it will cut easier than hardwood but the opposite is actually true, at least for diode lasers. The problem is the layers of glue between the wood layers. I'd wager that you could get through the same thickness hardwood much easier/cleaner than plywood. Basswood should be super easy to get through. Anyhow, my default settings are speed 5, 2-3 passes and 100% power. This is for a hardwood thickness of 6-8mm and depends on the species. Some wood species will naturally cut cleaner than others. BTW we run the 10w version of this machine and use the air assist kit for cleaner cuts on thicker stock.

@@ArtisansAndArthropods well thank you so so much! I really appreciate the time you took to give me such a knowledge filled and awesome response. From my basic knowledge, you have confirmed some thoughts. I need to look into better resources for my projects other than big box stores. Yes basswood is a breeze. I’m so glad I found your content. Now let me go make sure I’m subscribed

@@tiffanywilliams7700 No problem at all! Thank you for the support =) I have recently become aware (thanks to a subscriber) that Etsy is a good place to find shops that sell stock material for laser cutters and engravers. I have seen some mix packs of wood on there so that could be a good way to learn about which hardwoods work best with the laser. I think the ultimate freedom is in having a bandsaw so that you can prep your own stock to whatever thickness.

@@ArtisansAndArthropods you rock!! would you be willing to do a video specifically addressing wood for projects for the M1? just curious.thanks again

@@tiffanywilliams7700 Of course, what did you have in mind? We have done a few already but always open to ideas for new projects. I'll link them below. Xmas Ornaments - ua-cam.com/video/lOXPpkEOREQ/v-deo.html Magnet Puzzle - ua-cam.com/video/qQNnMNkm7Dc/v-deo.html Lasered Clock - ua-cam.com/video/L0CJXB05kgs/v-deo.html

Best of luck! The first time I did it I thought I had the white marks in the right spot but I was off by one. There should be this sort of slack loop between the bracket on the laser head and where the nozzle clicks onto the laser head.

If the brackets are all where they should be and the tube is positioned within them correctly, the laser head should be able to freely move to all four corners when the machine is powered off. So that is a good test that things are positioned correctly. The tube needs to be positioned within the brackets so that there is some slack toward the laser module. On one end of the tubing there should be some white markers that show you where the tube should rest. As far as the tube rubbing against the lid, mine does slightly and it does not cause any problems. I hope this helps, best of luck!

No problem, thanks for watching! Both cutting boards and charcuterie boards are considered indirect contact because the food does not interact with a surface which contains dried glue. If one were to use a putty made from glue and sawdust to fill a void in the surface of the wood, that would be direct contact since the food can touch the dried glue.

@ArtisansAndArthropods thanks for the clarification. Very helpful!

Thanks for watching and for the kind words! Glad you found it helpful.

Hey Norman, thanks for watching. We may be able to take that on depending on what exactly you had in mind. If you'd like to chat further about it, please get in touch with our shop through Etsy. artisansarthropods.etsy.com

@@ArtisansAndArthropods Ok Sir i’ll message you thru that link on Etsy.

If you store it inside, Ash and Hickory will be probably the best choices. Same build process but you may need to start with a glue up to get the Ash/Hickory thick enough. This wheelbarrow is for lighter work and lives outside. The cedar has held up to loads of logs pretty well so far but yeah I am cautious with the heavier loads.

Hey there, so this video is of our older laser. It was built from a kit and I cannot remember what settings this ran at. If I were to run this engraving on our xTool M1,I would engrave at power 100, speed 200-250 depending on the wood type and one pass. Usually mahogany engraves well and I can run max speed/power for one pass.

I will check it out thanks! The one in this video is quite sturdy and very accurate. My only problem is that my table saw surface is too small for it,so an extending style one would be better.

Not a silly question at all and you could totally cut it with the laser. I'm in the habit of drilling holes myself when possible rather than leaving it to the laser because it is the one scenario where I'm actually faster =). I thought it would be less time to use the drill rather than run a few test cuts to dial in the size hole to cut. If I were to run this file repeatedly I would probably take the time to dial in the right sized hole with the laser and have it do that part for me too. Thanks for watching!

@@ArtisansAndArthropods thanks for the answer I am just got a laser and was going to make a clock and wanted to make sure it wouldn't cause a structural issue.

The only problem I can think of is if you size the hole really close to the size of the spindle on the mechanism and it's a tight fit, you'll need to have the pieces of the clock lined up perfectly for the glue up. Otherwise if they are shifted just a little bit the hole may not be big enough anymore for the mechanism. Of course that only matters if you are cutting your clock from two pieces placed next to one another like I did. It wouldn't be a problem if you cut it from one big sheet. Best of luck and let us know if you have any other questions.

Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment! Once you get set up it's easy to crank out a ton of these.

I genuinely appreciate the concern but it can be very cold in my shop. It is not ideal but I will take gloved hands over numb hands every time.

Yeah it's definitely best to minimize the knots. I chose a 2 * 4 that had relatively few, but you don't always know until you rip it down the middle. The handles are generally thick enough that small knots are no big deal. 1.5" x 3" sounds like overkill to me but should work fine as long as your bolts are long enough. It would be strongest if the edge grain is on the top/bottom of the handle when fastened in place. Pressure treated wood would work fine. I personally don't like throwing dust from it in my shop because then I have to worry about it contaminating my dust collector and making it so I can't compost the sawdust. If you use a softer wood you'll probably be fine shaping the handles with sandpaper, though you could save some time nibbling first with a jig saw. Anyhow, thanks for watching!

I think it would probably still be a noticeable boost in sound but not quite as nice as using a more solid material. After all, a plastic party cup will work to some extent. One thing to maybe think about is whether the sunboard or cardboard would be heavy enough for the phone to sit in there and not tip the amplifier over. Let us know how it works out if you give it a shot!

Thank you, that's very kind. It's a little intimidating looking at the handles and seeing how many spots you'll have to drill and line things up. Luckily the brackets on mine and probably most models have a lot of leeway in them for where you place the bolts, allowing for tons of error in the hole placement.

Thanks for watching! In hindsight I'd have made the hole smaller for aesthetic reasons. I gotta admit though that the one made in the video is quite loud! I use it in the shop all the time for audio books and music. Have a great one!

I don't have any specific suggestions but there are a lot of options better than this drill press available in that price range, at least in the U.S. This one is very basic but the motor and chuck have been great for years. Apologies but I'm not sure what to suggest as far as brands go that are available in Europe. Something I wish I'd prioritized though is a table that's easy to adjust. Many have cranks that let you easily dial in the drilling depth but this one has no such mechanism.

@@ArtisansAndArthropods After a lot of lurking I came to a conclusion that apart from mass of the castings it's all the same scrap and it's more of a lottery, up to the price point 5 times higher. Some companies are even using the very same design and parts but racking up prices going for the "it has to be better, isn't it?!" effect in potential buyers. So I bought one that is a rough equivalent of the WEN cheapest model and I'm going to evaluate my lottery next week. I also assigned a budget for the replacement of the chuck and the motor if needed. So in my evaluation what has to be spot on is the spindle (including the feeding gearing), the pulley axle at the spindle and the pulley at the motor. Not much more is needed. Obviously I hope it doesn't come to motor replacement as it's going to be a costly project, even going for a second-hand one (obviously more powerful while we're at it). With chucks it's difficult in Poland as there are no established "good enough" brands. You either pay $100 for a branded one or you face a flood of results with Chinese knockoffs. Same as with drill presses I would appreciate any information on solid brands with reasonably priced products available for purchase globally.

Thanks for watching! This machine has impressed me in terms of power. I think a lot of people get bummed out when trying to cut plywood, but hardwood is easier for it to get through. Let us know if you have any questions about your M1!

Hello there,thanks for watching. Your question could be taken a few different ways. If you mean beeswax rather than polyurethane, it depends on how the item will be used and personal preference. If you're wondering if this finish can be applied over an urethane, I'd say that it would be better to stick to a paste wax for that. This one has linseed oil blended in so it won't really tack up and form layers over an urethane. It is intended to be absorbed by the workpiece. You can however, apply this finish, let cure and put an urethane over it.

@@ArtisansAndArthropods thank you for your prompt reply! I keep seeing the Beeswax commercial on the beautiful floor... l will return the Beeswax immediately! Will be putting coats of Tung Oil topped with polyurethane. Will that be OK?

That's a winning method for getting both beauty and durability. The oil will need to be nice and dry before putting the polyurethane over it.