- 10
- 71 588
Matt Kinsela
Australia
Приєднався 20 січ 2022
Follow along as i build an LS3 powered 60 series landcruiser!
Cab mounted and Shocks in!
In this video I mount the cab to the chassis and get the 4 front shocks mounted.
Переглядів: 3 248
Відео
Springs, Shocks and Bumpstops!
Переглядів 5 тис.Місяць тому
In this video we go through the 4 key components in any suspension system and how they work together
Fitting a Nissan Diff into my Toyota
Переглядів 14 тис.2 місяці тому
In this video I cram a GU front diff into my landcruiser diff front housing which turns out quite well.
My 60 front suspension is nearly done!
Переглядів 9 тис.2 місяці тому
In this video i go through what to look for when fitting a panhard and get it mounted in my 60
My 60 Build gets an engine and diffs!
Переглядів 9 тис.4 місяці тому
In this video I get the engine and box in and mount the diffs in the chassis with the custom radius arms and double triangulated 4 link rear.
Use CAD at home in 15 minutes!
Переглядів 4,6 тис.4 місяці тому
In just 15 minutes we will go through how to take an idea and design it on the computer to get it cut out by a CNC machine.
60 Build Ep 2 - Chassis bracing
Переглядів 8 тис.5 місяців тому
Episode 2 working on my Dream 60 Build. I have prepped the chassis and got it ready to start bracing up. We plate the inside and outside to help stiffen it and get it ready for future brackets.
Lets Build a 60 series! ep 1 - The plan
Переглядів 21 тис.6 місяців тому
Hey guys, I am building a 60 series in memory of my old man. Come along for the journey as i take you through each step and offer advice and tips along the way.
Another awesome vid with a lot of great info. Your a very smart lad Matty👍
Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed it
By far the best build series I’ve watched, so informative
Great job mate keep up good work with the videos
Thanks mate! Will do
Thanks for such a simple and easy to follow explanation of CAD, makes me want to download it now and start playing around, even though I have no projects
It’s surprisingly easy to get started hey!
Loving this build mate. Awesome work. Looking forward to the next vid. 👍🏻
I think I have finally found where Im getting my coilover/ three link done for my first gen 4Runner... Great seeing this kind of detail in this work. Will be in touch
Body mount softness/material... Something I have never even considered before. I like your thinking, Matty!
I've been working on a Hj 60 for the past 10 months doing rust rapairs most weekends and seeing the progress you've made on yours gives me motivation to finish mine although theres alot of work left. Thank you and keep up the good work.
Glad to hear mate! I hope it’s not as rusty as this cab 😅
Not as much rust as your cab but still alot of work.
RRC chassis great choice. NGL, that 60 body looks ready for the scrap heap, are you doing all the body work as well? Or is there a secret body somewhere?
It’s just a body for mockup man, wayyyy to much work to bring it back from the dead. I have another rust free 60 for a donor when done 👍
@@mattkinsela thank god, was looking like worlds longest project for a minute there
Awesome video
Another banger video mate 👍
Love it Matt! Keen to see the final product
Another top vid mate
Awesome video 👍 would you be able to do an in depth detailed video on tri 4 link rears please 🙏
Will do man!
Soooo….. if l was chasing 3 inch of lift in my 80 series should l be looking at a lighter weight 4 inch coil hoping it will sag a bit?
Yeah ideally, as long as the coil doesn’t become too long and won’t bind before you bottom out
hi matt, great video! i am doing the conmversion for my 2001 troopy. do you have the part numbers for the nissan ARB locker and especially the aprt numberfor the side gears that will fit toyoyta spline? my supplier hasn't been able to identify the side gears
No. I don’t sorry mate, just the general arb front locker for a patrol and then the side gears for an 80 front locker which is an rd132
What an amazing project! The 60 series has undoubtedly the best exterior design in my opinion. Looking very forward to seeing it all put together and love the attention to details. One thing to note regarding strengthening your chassis by adding the plates to the sides of the frame. The highest stresses and strains will be seen at the top and bottom of the frame, that's where you will see the most gains by adding plates. Very similar to I beams, the web thickness (center plate connecting the top and bottom flange) is always thinner than the top and bottom flange since it's only purpose to hold the two flanges together. Looking forward to hearing your opinion. From the looks of it, the main purpose of the plates is to locate the front and rear suspension mounting plates? Cheers!
Cheers mate, 100% agree with you regarding the top and bottom faces of the chassis adding the most stiffness, however your also right, while adding some stiffness to the rail, most of the plating is there to locate and strengthen the joins of all the bracketery that’s going to be fitted.
Matt,Do you do product reviews? We produce LEDs for auto
what 3d scanner do you use to scan and put into CAD to build around? , and does it work with fusion 360?
I don’t use a scanner, I pay a company to come in and scan the parts for me, they then send me the 3d files to use. We use solidworks at work, but I am sure fusion would support it too
The technical content is great. So much knowledge to share.
Would be good to hear the advantages and disadvantages of changing the amount of wraps or loops a spring has, so if you can have a 20in tall spring with 5 loops or 15 loops what differences would you expect for a same rate compression spring like a 125lb per in spring
Apart from a very different fully compressed height of the spring, the springs would work the same I would think being the same rate? I would think the spring guys have worked out the best sort of angle to wind springs at. 5 wraps at 20” long probably doesn’t work very good as a spring
@mattkinsela reason I ask is one theory I've been told is having more wraps makes the spring longer so even with the same spring rate it gives a softer feeling spring as the compression and extension are over a longer distance. Kinda like longer leaf springs or torsion bars. Because if there is no difference you would want to have a spring with the least amount of wraps possible for the gain you would get from reducing the unsprung weight. As you can't cheat the springs unsprung weight like you can a shocker by running the shocker body off the chassis as the body tends to be the heaviest part of the shock.
@@Bigcountry_littlelegs I can’t see that being right, the same spring rate would be the same spring rate. Winds per inch, diameter and bar thickness determine the spring rate of a coil, so if we remove wraps in a spring, we would need to make the material thicker to compensate. Dunno haha
Top video!! Always providing the best information!!
You mentioned that you had a swaybar in the back of the Hilux, how do you work out the best thickness/lever length?
I think it’s a bit of experience and trial and error unfortunately
Great explanation, gives me a better understanding on what to go with when I SAS my Luxy.
Super informative - Thanks for bringing a bit of Tech back to 4wd youtube land!
Get video & info makes total sense but why do the likes of superior, dobinson etc not offer longer softer springs so we can do this?
Not sure mate, maybe it’s a cost thing? More material in a longer spring or something?
Marc Rebillet’s day job teaching suspension geometry
Only thing I could find was some French music guy haha
This vid gave me good validation that im also on the right track, having played with rear leafs in my RUF lux for ages and got them to a point they hold the weight up just right; while being super soft and flexxy. Doesnt even feel like im on leaf springs. 🤙 great video!
Hell yeah!
Great vid, with awsome info. How many sets of coils would you plan to go through until you land on the right one? Had the car weighed and sent the weights off to dobinsons with the intention of landing on 3"-3.5". Got the springs and the front sat at 2" and the rear sat at 3.5". Secondly, how do uou calculate how much up travel to maintain vs how much down travel? Just got new 12" shocks and have maintained 5ish" up teavel in the front. Or would it have been a better idea to loose 1" of up teavel to gain an extra 1" down travel? Was also finding that with the 12.5" or 13" shocks the drag link was binding.
I’ll usually get it right first go, but it’s pretty easy with coilovers. Working with normal springs sucks when you’ve got to send the info off to another company and hope they do the right thing and pay them before you find out. It’s a bit of a compromise with ride height vs uptravel, something has to give, if you want it low there’s no room for uptravel, 6” might make it a monster truck but in some cases you can make it work at a good ride height
This was a great watch dude. Great information, always learning. Appreciate you
Glad you enjoyed it
Love the vid Is this available for purchase through you yet or do you have a contact for John? Thanks Zac
Hey Zac, yeah it’s on our website mate
Hey Matt, loving the build, I’m still catching up on your series atm. Could you please touch on the process/any tips with engineering approval as you go through them? Keep up the good work!
Will do mate, will probably cover that in an upcoming episode. Just had some great news towards engineering I’m excited to talk about 👍
Couple of topics for when you are at the shock shop. Target spring frequency for say rock crawler, weekend warrior, tough tourer, desert racer. How and why rebound is more important than compression. Any reason to not use a torsion bar from an ifs car as a swaybar. Ive got a mazda bravo torsion bar in the front of my patrol. Cost $50 and has way better flex than superiors superflex bar. And just as stiff.
Good questions mate
That was a good video. Once again bloody good explanation!!
Cheers, Rick!
Great vid, I have two questions, What is a recommended service interval for a good set of remote reservoir shocks that do a lot of offroad corrugated tracks? How to properly shim/adjust rebound dampening on a shock? cheers matt
Good questions mate we’ll cover them both when I go see nick 👍
Very useful info. Been thinking of changing my setup a bit and reminded me that i did up the compression to help with body roll a bit. And thinking maybe i can bit better ride on the road by softening them after adding a sway bar. Would you recommend upgrading the front or rear sway bar first? Was thinking the rear? For reference i have an 80 with 2 inch lift, rooftop, rear bar, full drawer with water tank, so a bit of weight. Does have 500kg springs in the rear. Bought them as the 250kg ones were sagging.
Front or rear I would usually say rear in an 80, as the front is a lot more stiff than the rear
Absolutely fantastic video, learnt heaps
Glad you enjoyed it
Loved this video mate. It’s interesting for me coming from a Downhill bike background and having that understanding of high level suspension tuning and sprung/ unsprung weight, and seeing how that converts to Cars where things like Beam axles and sway bars exist. I found your comments on Hydro bumps really interesting. I remember watching the Skid Factory where they installed them for a Patrol/ 6BT conversion purely for the additional engine weight on compression and wonder if that was necessary or if correct spring rate/ shock valving was the appropriate answer.
Yeah me too man, I reckon it’s a lot more noticeable and easy to change on a bike so more guys play with it and work it out hey. Haven’t seen it, so not sure!
Totally agree Matty! And this is good info for those new to suspension and tuning of said suspension. Have literally found all the same things you mentioned, thru my own trial and error over the years. Good validation I'm on the right track haha
I figured you’d know what’s up 🤟
Loving the content mate. Great to see a no bullshit information video that isn't biased due to sponsorship. I have a question in regards to swag bar links. What the best way to work the length? Just take it for a drive and see what length works best or there a particular way to work it out?
Cheers mate! I was abit unsure about this one cause it’s a pretty dry topic unless your into it. This is could have been a lot longer but I thought no one would stick around haha. If it’s in a standard setup, usually I just go full bump and full droop and see if there’s something that will limit the bar, like on a patrol rear, short links make the bar roll back and hit the centre on droop, but long links make it roll forward on uptravel and hit the snout of the centre, so you really need to find the length that works in the full range. Ideally your aswaybar arms would be pretty much level at half travel, but that doesn’t always work in a standard car setup
@@mattkinsela thanks for the reply mate. Yeah that makes sense. In my particular case i have an 80 that use to have big lift but I've taken it back down to 2 inch but because I'm still getting familiar with the 80 I've been unsure if it was ever changed from factory length (being that it was 4 inch i would assume it would be different). But I'll be checking that today. Thanks again mate keep the awesome content coming.
Fantastic video. Cheers Matt for explaining it all so clearly 👍
No worries, Jim!
Some useful info here Matt. What's your opinion on front vs rear sway bars on a coil front lead rear setup? Either removing or upgrading one or the other in order to get the leafs to move more? Or is this viewed more as a rear spring rate issue?
It depends on the suspension and what you want vs what the springs are, I used to run a sway bar in the rear of my coil front leaf rear Hilux as that’s where I felt it needed it. But not all will be the same. Most leaf setups are pretty good at resisting roll already lol
Replace 'corregated roads ' with 'New South Wales and Victoria roads' just for the sake of accuracey.😅 Great explanation of a complex topic. The only question I have would be about through chasis sway bars and why they aren't as popular here vs the states. Have absolutely loved the series so far with well thoughtout explanations.
Haha yeah you’re not wrong hey. I guess the level of customisation isn’t there like in the states where every second house has a car with a set of one tons under their jeep or pickup haha. So a lot of standard stuff still works for us
I’ve got 3 way adjustable shocks. High speed and low speed compression and compression. How do I know what to adjust and when?
Great question, we will go through this when I go see nick and we build my shocks!
keep 'em coming, Matt!
Will do!
“Run as light as spring as pos” needed to hear that. Have regretted constants in my Ute since I did it. Top vid mate 👍
Obviously not the case for all cars and uses but a good base line I reckon. Cheers mate
My mate showed me this build series and now I’m hooked Thanks sick Wish you do a 4Runner one day
Maybe one day!
Love it Matt, it's not all about what's cool on insta!
That’s it mate!
100%
Great information once again, always learn from these sessions. So glad you mentioned the sway bars, made such a big difference to handling on my 105 and missus 120 prado .. if you hate body roll when driving a range with tight corners like we have to, decent sway bars improve handling so much, I believe they are worth every cent and so often get over looked.
Yeah watching that is always funny 😂😂
Love the technical stuff mate helps heaps in understanding stuff to have a crack
Awesome man
Great info, thanks. I've recently purchased the arcdriod, and while the arcdroid onboard tracing is great for simple or one off templates, I have been hesitant to jump into fusion 360 (I'm an old school boily) after looking into CAD programs a few years ago, which were pretty complex and confusing. After watching this video I'm happy enough to jump in, as I need it for my small fab/restoration shop.
Glad it was helpful!