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Thanks! Be sure to check out the entire build series on my channel.

@@pacificcoastminiaturesalright sure!

I would suggest buying PLA as this is the easiest filament to print with. After you get some experience with the printer you can try other ones such as PETG and TPU.

@@pacificcoastminiatures ok thanks

Great idea!

Sorry to hear about your issues. I agree the control panel cable should really be more robust. The screws I think are mentioned in the manual but not everyone reads that. I would reach out to them about the screw if you haven’t already. There may be a fix for that.

@@pacificcoastminiatures finallty got ahesion to work with just simple soap.

@Cordycep1 yes I find just washing the plate well with dish soap and hot water every few prints makes a big difference.

Yes, very handy!

Glad to hear. I do have a better design in mind just haven’t had time to build it.

Yes it does shake the stand quite a bit but so far no issues - I may move its location and then I should be able to secure the stand better. I just made do with what I had, it’s not perfect.

Hope to add some more - I’ll do a poll on my community tab to see what everyone would like to see first. Have some great ideas for other movie and tv show vehicles.

@@pacificcoastminiatures sounds awesome 🤩

Thanks, being able to 3D print these models has been a great help! The detail I get is amazing!

LOL! Yeah I could get very carried away with this! I have some other movie vehicles in mind too such as the A-Team van, KITT and a few others to add to my street scenes.

I do give it a good wash with dish soap and hot water every few prints. Prints seem to stick fine although I had issues yesterday printing with a silk PLA but increasing the bed temperature helped.

@@pacificcoastminiatures Soap and water is good but Alcohol before each print conditions the plate. Soap or your hands have oil that will sit on the plate. Alcohol takes off that oil

I'll give that a try next time I use that Silk PLA again. For regular PLA soap and water seems to have cleaned the plate well enough.

I agree! And there are lots of ways to upgrade it over time.

Thank you! More to come.

I’ve had no issues with the software yet. I’m only using Orca Slicer, the official version not the FlashForge one. And I had no issues setting up my printer with Flashmaker so that I can monitor prints when away from my office. I send jobs via wifi from Orca Slicer and it just prints.

@@pacificcoastminiatures You made a good purchase with the 5m, a lot of these new Klipper printers really do well out the box. The A1 mini is a nice printer, but the m5 should be reliable and I've heard it also prints TPU like a dream, you already have filtration and can complete the enclosure very easy, also with the 110c max bed temp you can print engineering grade filament that the A1 Mini will never dream of printing like Polycarbonate, Nylon, ABS, and ASA. Co print should release an AMS for Klipper printers this year so even that is a possibility in the future. Also, your device page on Orca Slicer has more remote capabilities than any Bambu labs printer owner would know what to do with. Klipper is the future. All this from an X1C owner for well over a year and half, they are amazing printers but impossible to work on when the time comes and most new Klipper printers have caught up in print speed and quality. Check my channel out I just posted some videos comparing a $299 Infimech TX printer to my X1C and its sad how close they are.

Thanks, I am very happy with the printer with very few issues despite some of the problems I've heard that others have had. I even updated to the latest firmware a few days ago and had no issues continuing to print through Orca Slicer. I am interested in trying TPU to print out some tires for car models, just have to get a spool. I'm only interested in a AMS or MMU if it doesn't create too much waste. I did try printing a bookmark for my daughter by pausing the printer at the correct layer and swapping filaments and it worked quite well. I prefer models where different coloured parts are separate and then you either pin/snap or glue them together. And I heard about the Infimech TX printer on another channel, will check out your video. I do plan on enclosing the printer at some point so I can print with some of the engineering filaments. Bambu Lab printers are top of class but like with cars, not everyone needs nor can afford the most expensive. It's good that we're getting more affordable coreXY printers - competition is always good to see.

@@pacificcoastminiatures How did you get the Flashmaker app to add the printer?

I don’t remember the exact steps but there is a QR code you scan in the printer with the Flashmaker app. It was quite easy.

Not that I’m aware of - I’m pretty happy with all the prints I’ve done so far. Obviously not as precise as my resin printer. There are some slicer settings I might tweak over time to get the best quality out of it. But I’m mainly printing functional parts so high quality isn’t as important.

@@pacificcoastminiatures Same. The things I design are physical replacement parts for motorcycles, functional enhancements to the printer, household fixes, electronics enclosures. For example, motorcycle handguard plastics are maybe $40/pair, but that $40 buys you two rolls of PETG, and that's enough to make 6-8 pairs of handguards. So hopefully no adjustment is needed to get the dimensions exact. The other printer (SV07+) is all dialed in now .. extremely exact XYZ dimensions.

@suzyamerica4679 that’s great! I think an FDM printer will soon be a household appliance because it is so versatile.

@@pacificcoastminiatures I love the way this tech upends the traditional supply chain .. there are people out there who get some new electronic components on a Friday, design the case and fixtures over the weekend, release the designs Monday, and by Tuesday the finished product is out on the street already all over the world. MalWart wouldn't have even gotten its design team moving in so short a space.

Awesome! Let me know how it goes with your "adventures" too. You'll find the 5M is a huge step up from your 1st FDM printer. I can't get over how fast it is once it gets going. I also have a Mars 3 resin printer for all my N scale details. I think as a modeller having both is a plus if you can afford it. My next major tool purchase will likely be a laser engraver/cutter. Maybe next year.

Keep the box, it may be better to return it. The promises FLashforge made in their advertisement have been inflated. I got an adventurer 5M about 2 months ago and regret it. This is coming from a Bambu Labs A1 Mini and Creality K1. The software has been subpar from the get go and the new software (Flashmaker and Orca-Flashforge) are just barely functional. Make sure to get testing done prior to the return window ending, buying remorse for sure on my end.

@mwood2 I’ve been using Orcaslicer and it’s been working great. Give it a try before you completely give up on the 5M. Bambu has had their share of issues too so they are not perfect. As they say YMMV - everyone needs to do their own research like I did.

Awesome! Thanks for those insights and tips. I’m starting slow but as you said there’s always something you realize you need that you can print. We needed a new flap on our Toto washlet which I designed in Tinkercad and went through several iterations of prints until I got the right size and shape for the pegs that hinge the flap. And if it ever breaks again I can just print a new one.

@@pacificcoastminiatures Being able to design & print your own stuff is the best use for these printers, especially once you get the design -> CAD -> print -> test pipeline streamlined. Even more fun when you combine that with electronics / electromechanicals.

Thanks. It doesn’t take up much space. I have it displayed on a display shelf in my office.

Some of these are hard to find now. You might be able to find them online somewhere but expect to pay a lot since some are considered collectibles.

Thank you!

That’s great!

Glad to hear that! Make sure to checkout the rest of the series as well.

I do always try and lower the sound volume of the music so it is subtle. We add music so that there are no completely dead audio when we’re not talking. If you don’t like it then that’s fine. Watch someone else’s videos.

Thanks!

Thank you!

Thank you! There’s more I want to add.

Thanks 👍

Yes, it is a strange name but that’s what I found when I did some research on carfloats.

@@pacificcoastminiatures I use to live in Rotterdam and Rotterdam has the largest port in Europe, however they never had any vessels to transport trains. The only place where they had train transporting vessels in the past where found in Germany where trains where transported between Germany and Sweden and Denmark. The last train ferry stopped its service in 2019. Before the second WW the had a smaller train ferry service in the north past in the Netherlands. The ferries that currently operate between the Netherlands and the UK don't use these so called toggle blocks to dock. They are far to big a suppose.

@jefwisse1957 thanks for sharing that.

I used normal sewing thread. Great tip on making holes - I’ll have to try that next time. Wonder if it will work with cured resin though.

@@pacificcoastminiatures You could find out, maybe on some left over material..

Thank you!

I used KeyNote on my Mac - but any drawing app that lets you draw lines and circles will work such as Word or PowerPoint.

Thanks very much! Glad you like it, even if it's not an RC tugboat. When I was looking for a 3d model to print I did see quite a few RC ones. Very tempted! But the model railroad and other interests keeps me busy enough. Maybe when I retire, I might look into it, especially once I get an FDM printer. I love tugboats as they represent that even the smallest things can move bigger things. Have you ever read the Farley Mowat novel "Great Seas Under"? It's about salvage tugs working off the eastern coast of Canada and US in the northern Atlantic. Well worth a read if you love tugs.

And thanks for subscribing!

@@pacificcoastminiatures great to hear about the interest in model railways. I have a very old set I got as a kid back in the early 1980s and was always fascinated by building a proper layout for it…RC has taken over now I’m able to afford it , but I still have a dream to one day build a proper layout for it. I’ve been thinking about printers but I’ll be honest I can’t really justify it at the moment….but hopefully one day. Thanks for the book recommendation. I’m UK based but have always loved boats - well basically anything with an engine, but seeing tug boats and what they do really interests me especially ones on your side of the pond. I love their ruggedness and versatility - proper hardy machines. Thanks again, and as for the subscription, only fair I follow the channel that has such great content especially when it covers the subjects that interest me. I’ll spend time working through your older videos as I’m sure there’s lots there for me to enjoy. All the best 😎🙏

Definitely building a layout is worth it. You can always start small. And check out the whole harbour build series in the playlist - still have one more video to go, maybe two. And then I have a purely scenery project to tackle (well with one man made structure). Lots to keep me busy!

Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated. I'm still tweaking audio levels. Might also have to put my mike closer to my mouth.

Thanks, great advice! Something I can still do later.

Thanks, I did make a diorama for it and even filmed it, but not that happy how it turned out so am planning on remaking it better.

Thanks! And yes, planning on adding some more small details here and there to make it look more like a busy working area. I have some photos and videos of real car floats I can reference.

Sounds good, good luck with the new layout!

@@pacificcoastminiatures N-scale has come a long way since I was into it back in the 80's.

@riogrande5761 it has - the quality of the locos alone is much better. And now with 3D printing I’m able to have detail parts at a lower cost and greater availability. Plus DCC has come a long way in terms of controlling locos - I have a few decoders that are so tiny they even fit in my small SW1200 switchers!

@@pacificcoastminiatures That's good news. I bought a Walther's N Scale SW1200 so I'll need to get it set up for DCC.

@@riogrande5761I believe that is similar tooling to the Lifelike one I have. I’ll do a shorts video showing how my decoder is installed in a day or two. I used a TCS Z2 - no sound but good luck getting sound into that small of a switcher!

Thanks! Took longer than I thought but usually these projects do. And at some point I have to say good enough and move on to other things. 😊

You could try - it’s not going to be as strong so won’t work if the model will be handled. But it might be fine for a display model. There’s also canopy glue which many modellers use for gluing clear plastic as it doesn’t fog or damage the clear plastic sheets. I need to get some of that one day.

Great question! I plan to do a followup video showing in depth the hidden track and the benchwork that supports all of this. I'll be sure to mention some of the design details such as grade % and separation distance. I don't remember them off the top of my head so will need to do some rough measuring. I tried to keep the radius large and the grade small to avoid issues.

Ok, I’ve subscribed so I don’t miss it. Thanks

Thanks, glad you liked it!

Thanks 😊 , added some extra details this morning. I’m considering it done for now. Stay tuned for the build video!