Відео

@@micahsdonahue still holding up however many years later we are

@@PhoticsTV these trucks go for big money, even needing minor repairs

@@upnorth5465 I have 7000 lb axles and 8 lug 16” sailuns ready to go on.

@@upnorth5465 and actually it’s the opposite. The higher rated tires can be run at a higher pressure so run cooler as paradoxical as that may seem

Good so far but about to get swapped for g rated 16” sailuns when I do 7k axle conversion.

@@drewdoestrucks Thanks. walmart will sale the tire but wont mount. They will mount the 12ply. The stock gladiators are now junk at 4 years on my toy hauler. lost two tires in less than 50 miles apart @ 65 mph with a light load.

@@terrystrahl3275 where are you located? I will probably use mine on another trailer but could sell them.

@@drewdoestrucks I am in Commy California

@@terrystrahl3275 yeah way too far but figured it was worth a shot

Sure which ones are you interested in? The Transeagle/primo hauler?

Yes. This is tricky because it’s at my house but it’s clearly not a residential structure. If it was then this would be a garage and you’d then need gfi’s if under most recent nec and who wants gfi in a shop full of motors that’s gonna trip them frequently. It’s still just a really good guideline to adhere to though. i really wish i had doubled them up with one down low and a second paralleled up high though. if i had to do again they would all be at 4 or 5 ft off ground. also in the middle of adding an exterior outlet, which will be gfi.

No, signal is fine. In fact, was still reading the tire at normal psi after sitting flat in the campground for 2 days next to the truck

I’ve found few trucks I’ve worked on actually have the center pin hot for reverse. And no trailer I’ve ever owned has had reverse lights. Since it’s not strictly assigned as reverse lights many diagrams identify it as reverse and many as auxiliary. I think reverse lights on a trailer are a wonderful idea and I’ve always been surprised they aren’t more popular.

I just got a gen y hitch and the pintle is shaped very differently than any of my other hitches and it does seem to minimize some of the bang. Still louder than the other ones. I prefer couplers, but not enough to go changing parts around for the most part.

I have about 100 pairs. It’s rare to see my not wearing them.

i changed the liner and did not fix the problem so i change the drive roller with .024 and .030/.035 v groove from amazon and it was fixed.

@@lllllllllllllllllllllllll8722 glad you found your problem. the original factory one on this Hobart has groves for both sizes but you have to remove it and flip it.

@@drewdoestrucks mine came with .03, .035 knurl grove and .024 v grove even though it doesn't say it on the drive. I tried .023,.024,.025 wire and all slip but .03 worked semi okay on .024 v grove. After looking around the forums many people had problem with old drive roller that came with the welder.

I think northern tools sells a lot of buyers stuff. Might be a source if someone wants one.

You take the weight off the springs. Not the tires.

It’s a truck that doesn’t run and sat for years before I bought it with a hitch in. Regardless, this is really dumb. I use the hitch to move it around. For now.

It is if the first 24 years of your life you’d never seen or heard of one like me, and never knew any other way than to use ether. Diy doesn’t mean you can’t use the right tools for the job. If you mount many tires yourself, this is a tool any diy garage should have. I also have a manual tire machine. I don’t need it to mount a tire but it sure makes it easier to do myself. You’ll find there aren’t many people who mount their own tires, period. I’m not getting any younger and this bead blaster is now 20 years old and has seated the beads on dozens (at least) of tires, even stubborn zero turn radials that pop off the bead a few times a summer.

Given that the house had 100 amp service I wonder if they intended to run a separate service to the outbuilding, apparently a previous owner ran a catering business and had an oven in the former building.

I try really hard not to leave any extra wire because when it hangs down it will eventually pull itself loose. The crimpers are kleins. I will consider posted some additional content if I get the chance.

I make my own so they fit perfectly. I’ve actually been thinking about getting some weather pack tools and individual insulated wires so I really can make my own harnesses that will last forever and have no splices.

Ring terminals are probably ancor or hillman brand weatherproof connectors. It’s important to use decent connectors with a higher copper percentage. Prevents corrosion down the road.

I’ll keep that in mind for the future. I haven’t really been making long format videos anymore anyway.

I like to have some dexterity

Sounds like more or less the same idea. Good thinking.

I did not weld the hitch on the truck. It came that way.

I set adaptive cruise to 65 mph, well under the 75 mph speed rating of the Hercules. I check tire pressure before every trip and during breaks and check tire temp at every stop. Few people check tires as religiously as me. Used a tire pressure monitor but it wasn’t reliable so I quit doing that for now. Yet we have had multiple failures. The Hercules just seemed to have manufacturing defects. 3/4 of ours had delamination or belt separation issues. Not happy with them. I am convinced the 15” tires are all junk.

@@drewdoestrucks I agree with you. It's sad that on regular cars and trucks, a person doesn't have to get out every time and inspect tires. Yet with these RV's, it's necessary to do so in order not to have a wreck from a blowout. I not only carry the spare on the back of the camper, but I also carry an additional spare in the bed of my truck. I'd hate to get a blowout and it takes the other tire out too from flapping and hitting the good tire.

@@garyp9906 yes I have a spare tire and wheel under the camper and a spare tire in the bed, I’ve found the selection nearest whatever rural campground I’m at isn’t typically very good. This way I can put the spare on, drive to any tire shop, and have the bare spare put back on the black wheels that are on the camper. Then tuck the white steelie back underneath. And I replace the spare every time I replace the tires. Won’t do me any good to have a 10 year old spare when I need it if it’s dry rotted.

He’s very interesting

I am not a corvette expert but I believe you’d have to cut the floor pan for the trans just to shift weight rearward a few feet. Not sure if the juice is worth the squeeze.

Although the bearings are usually the same the tube is actually thicker on the 7000 lb ones normally. And with these being lippert and not Dexter I assume the worst

I haven’t used the curved levelers but I see them misused in campgrounds all the time because people don’t seem to understand what an equalizer is or how it works. A remote level monitor is only gonna tell you when you’re level; you’ll still have to understand how this works to get it there. They are expensive and from people I’ve talked to, have connection issues. I don’t need complicated stuff when it comes to setting up. The x chocks work fine as regular chocks without damage to the suspension but they work by applying force to the tires so of course they will recommend you don’t use them because I’m sure there have been doorknobs who have spread them until they bent shackles and u bolts. They always have to play to the least intelligent person who will use their products. The impact driver I use is a 25 year old ryobi that’s useless for anything else. I’ve used it for years without stripping anything. It has less power than a modern brushless drill, which I sometimes also use. Either way again some common senses goes a long way. A tool powerful enough to break a bolt loose will also strip a gear. Having said that, I’ve had bent stabilizers in the past. I’ve caught them on curbs. I’ve even welded them to other things to use as jacks. I’ve used brushless drills and impacts and I’ve yet to strip a work gear. Fortunately the jacks are about $30 and 2 bolts to change should that ever happen. Finally, the “you can’t use stabilizers to lift the camper” thing has been so thoroughly addressed in the other commons I am surprised it’s being brought up again. These are camper jacks. Nothing more nothing less. They provide lift to take the flex out of the suspension. They do this by lifting up on the camper. The camper has a frame designed to flex and that frame flexes a lot during regular driving around. If you’ve managed to twist the camper frame by applying very uneven force with the jacks, you’ll know pretty quickly when the doors don’t open and etc. again, a tiny ounce of common sense goes a long way here. Understanding the use of these components includes understanding how they work. Many newer campers have self leveling as an option. The hydraulic landing gear are mounted in the same spots as the manual camper jacks, yet you still continually hear people say “but you can’t use the manual jacks to level the camper…” either way the best result is to get the camper near level before you use the stabilizers to take the flex out of the suspension. It really doesn’t matter if you take a little more flex out of one side than the other. I encourage people to make their own videos using $200 remote level monitors and $100’s of dollars in fancy levelers if that’s what they want. Let people watch both videos and choose for themselves. I’ve been doing it this way for many years and I did it with pine 2x6’s from Home Depot cut into 18” pieces for a long time before I bought the fancy orange plastic blocks. Having said that, they do work better.

The transeagle are being phased out for venom power or so I was told by their parent company. I ordered trans eagles and received venom powers; the labels on them said “trans eagle venom power.” They are the same all steel construction. I’m considering replacing the entire wheels and tires with 16” tires. I just don’t think anyone is making 15” tires that hold up anymore. I may replace both axles with 7000 lb units with disc brakes while I’m at it since we are really at the very upper limit of our axle ratings (but significantly below the limits of both the sidewall max for the Hercules and the transeagle venom power tires).

Tire rating is only one factor important to consider….the other is wheel load rating. The higher pressure required for the max load capacity of the tire can cause the wheel bead flanges to fracture. Of course, lose the wheel, lose the tire.

@@raycoleman3183 I’ve never seen a bead flange fracture on a steel wheel, and never seen one fracture on an aluminum wheel from anything other than impact. You could likely inflate a tire until the pressure physically forced the bead over a steel wheel bead flange before it would ever fail.

@@raycoleman3183 That's why I replaced the wheels with Sendel wheels that could handle the extra stress of installation and higher tire pressure...and 130psi bolt-in valve stems...