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You betcha! Lightning yellow rwd something like 1100made?!

i believe so! i think the pattern where it mounts is the same, you may just need to extend the the wiring, worse case!

@@boost.factory cheers, theres some Sony headunits that have a single DIN chassis but have a screen, could work well (screen would cover the triple gauges, but thats OK)

Thank you for the support! we appreciate it! the tool is available on toyotool.com Toyo tool is the name, They dont have many products on their site so it should be easy to track down!

precisely!

will use your car as a test car if you want!

Thank you! We hope to make a more detailed video on each topic in the future!

Thank you! we appreciate the support!!

i actually modified a "USED" an R32 Exhaust and extended it at the back, this works but its not perfect, i also had to build a custom down pipe anyways. so i could raise the exhaust up quite a bit in the middle. otherS modify R33 exhausts to fit, the are a bit more similar in length!

Thank you for the support!! we appreciate it greatly!

Appreciate the support!! thanks so much!!

They are " Mark Line" paint pens called "the Pumper"!

@dreednlb yes it's similar/ the equivalent to loc tight brand, it's just a whole sale version from wurth!

I prefer not to as it is more of a permanent install with lock tight making it much harder to remove later if needed. as long as they are torqued down correctly and you are attentive as to if one loosens off when you remove the nut from a cap you should not have any issues! side note ARP Also mentions the use of lock tight when installing head studs, they only note it is for a more permanent install. this same idea carries through to any stud.

Hey, so the oil control rings are lower tension and flimsy by design, they are actually designed to allow some oil to bypass them to lubricate the top 2 rings, this inherent flimsy design means they require additional support, thus the use / purpose of the third squiggly ring in the centre of them providing the support but also able to move freely with the oil control rings independent of the piston ring land. as for orientation. this is not super critical for these rings, as long as you have them evenly spaced and far away as possible from other gaps. when the top 2 are already orientated you can just continue to work your way down evenly spacing the oil control rings, the specific direction they face is not critical. hope this helps!

@@boost.factory 🙏🙏

@@allanjansen8138 www.boostfactory.ca/products/toyota-new-oem-mk4-supra-2jz-gte-bare-cylinder-head-usdm

Thanks Neil!

@Steeveeteevee9 Thanks man!! they are 18x9.5 +15 all around. The enkei kojins don't look great in any other specs

One day we hope to get one on the channel! Thank you for the support!

Ill take that as a compliment! 😂 i appreciate you notice the attention to the detail that went into this! my media guy and i both had to ask our selves if it was to much detail several times.... but just opted to cover as much as possible. the time this took was extensive while balancing regular day to day work! we hope to carry more more detail in future videos like this!

@@boost.factory bro when I build my RB I will know ai have done it the right way because of it so you’re doing great work!

mitutoyo for micrometer & bore gauge/dial gauge, arp stretch gauge frame ( can be used with most dial indicator gauges but does come with arp gauge. snap on digital torque wrench.

@@boost.factory thanks for the advice. In your opinion would there be any other brands that you would be confident in recommending that are not top tier like snap on and Mitutoyo, but are good enough for the home enthusiast who is building their own motor? or is it not worth taking the risk on quality with these tools

@JamezAdam any non digital micrometer will absolutely get the job done, as well as a standard click type torque wrench. These tools work! They are just as powerful tools when used correctly!

Hey so i think i know which portion of the video you are referring to! so when we initially put the bearings in they are .001" to large of a clearance with a clearance of approx .0031". this was with the STDHX ACL Bearing, so we switch to a standard STDH ACL Bearing. this brings us down -.001" to our desired clearance of .0021". Hope this helps! thanks!

@@boost.factory thanks for that. It does! 👌🙏

@JamezAdam yes we have this done along with the machine work! I only have the ability to measure the pistons in house. Don't yet have the equipment to measure both sides of the rod or the crank. an inline six is much easier to balance and is inharently well balanced by design, so as long as everything is weight matched your in good shape. Much different from a v6, v8, and inline 4 if you've ever had one of those balanced...

@dubstepninjaz8013 Mr Mosby lives on! 🤣

@@RFB244 great question! I had the same question reguarding how this would work, I have not wired the temp sensor side into the ecu yet as I ran out of inputs, but I will be testing this theory soon with acan expansion module. as I could not find definitive answers online on this exact thing!

the motor, aside from the all the supporting things like cams and fuel, etc.

​@@aimlessbutton stock bottom end! The Neos are surprisingly capable!

@boost.factory nice, good to know

@@yankymategarage Thank you! We appreciate the support so much!

for this application standard pins!

@@boost.factory hp car made on this setup

@@boost.factory hp car made on this setup

yes correct, crank position a little before tdc, install the head and cams, rotate cams to tdc, then turn crank to tdc. this ensures no accidental damage.

@@boost.factory it’s done. How should I go about getting oil circulating prior to first start? Unplug ignition system, disable injectors and turn the engine over? Or remove the spark plugs and turn the engine over?

@@BourneThisWay Yes exactly, you are correct! Here is our first start up guide line! drive.google.com/file/d/13BBwn-SchhZx5NqXVenzvpu08-7W99zJ/view

straight swap no shimming required.

glad it was helpful! it is a by pass valve yes, but it does relive the excess pressure in the oil filter that would build up with out it, allowing it to bypass the filter element under higher oil demand, so i guess its how you interpret the language. it does not operate as the oil pump bypass valve/pressure relief valve. as this one controls peak pressure.

front and back is a weird metric size, you can either drill the hole out and run a 1/4 npt plug or you can use the appropriate size grub screw. this works well but need more thread locker to ensure a solid seal.