Відео

@@ezcosme6646 There was both, depending on where it wa sold, FIRST GEN was always the ones with shocks. One of mine actually said MX350, WITH suspension.

@@xxss_screwed Local seller, I found one a while ago but 2hrs away. I don't want another that bad.

@@JeremysCardboardCrafts Absolutely and I love to see the next generation getting started. I will give you a secret, the shut off valve is a problem. I pull it apart, be careful of the tiny oring underneath. I Pull the guts out, the rubber piece, fill with epoxy and drill a hole through it after it dries. Reinstall the lever for looks and the oring underneath. Add a inline shutoff valve. Cheap on Amazon.

@@bdrgarage7039 is there any way to remove the carb w/o disassembling the fuel tap? I have literally no income and have like ¢62

@@bdrgarage7039 could I in theory, just disconnect the fuel line and throttle cable, unbolt it from the engine, remove the bowl, clean out the jet, then do everything in reverse.

@@JeremysCardboardCrafts Sure can, I have a hard time getting my hands and tools in there but it can be done. After the bowl cleaning check the path from the shut off valve to the bowl. Use a carb cleaning nylon brush. Or carefully a paper clip in a pinch

@@bdrgarage7039 dude you are an absolute god, ive never seen anyone more involved with the community. You just rightfully earned a subscriber with notifs on.

@@TravisScooter.123 off ebay, 48v 20ah, 35amp continuous BMS and a 75amp max

@@dannyboy768 yep!! I personally do not like the 290. I build 23cc to run down those 29cc. I build my 230's, or stock G23LH. But even then you need to glue the rear tire to the rim

@@shk2564 The gen 1 of the MX350 line had suspension and aluminum wheels. Don't see too many, although I have owned 3.

@@bdrgarage7039 ohh nice! I just got home from picking up a MX650 a half hour ago! 😆

@@shk2564 Nice, those are hard to find by me for less than $450

@@bdrgarage7039 I got this one for $120 running with the charger! It is the first time I have seen one under $300 and they are always scooped up quickly. I got the MX350 for $45 but it needed batteries. I replaced it with a single 24V so I will just get a second one and I’m going to switch the power train from the MX650 to the MX350. So it will be 48V and I am getting the Electro & Co Ultimate 5000W Razor kit 2.1 with a 72V 25ah battery for the MX650. I don’t think I could have gotten into the two bikes any cheaper.

@@bdrgarage7039 OMG a lady just sold a clean and working MX650 for $30! I messaged her 20 minutes after she posted it and she said it was already sold. 😭

@@sierraandnick 20ah is just the battery energy, the distance it can go. A lithium will gain roughly 1mph over lead acid BUT the lithium BMS amps need to be high to support an overvolt setup. The overvolt setup gain nearly 50%more watts and 50% more rpms. THAT'S where the top speed comes from AND sprocket ratios

@@briang4470 I have built a lot of those, this one is budget friendly. No money out of my pocket. So put a little elbow grease and this G23LH will run with the big dogs. I do have a LH lower and 25.4cc big bore almost ready for a go quad. Stay tuned

@@bdrgarage7039 I get it, your going for a "no buck" "use what you got build". I have seen people spend hours porting and modify lh cylinders and while they can run ok, a stock rc top end will blow them away anyday. Btw a rocket key or modify the flywheel keyway is the biggest noticeable power mod you can do to a stock lh or swap to RC flywheel and coil will get the same results.

@@briang4470 Yeah, I have done all of that. My next LH will be heavy porting and blueprinting, but before that I will run bolt on stuff see what the results are. I do not need to run 40mph, especially on a hard tire, BUT acceleration is what I love. But that is also a tire shredder. Lol. My port time on this was maybe one hour. Case and cylinder. I have run many 25.4cc RC top ends, I want to run a 29cc topend on a stock unmodified LH lower. I have one LH I am keeping for crazy builds. Lol

@@briang4470 Plus this scooter is a flip, I don't want to dump too much or anything into it.

@@bdrgarage7039 i have ran a 29cc top end on an lh case, to run the 36mm top end you have to grind down the little square tabs in the case or the cylinder won't fit other than that it works great.

Here is the one I bought, you need a fuel line kit, or just 2 fuel lines a rubber grommet and filter, you will have to drill a high spot on the gas tank and plug the old lower supply line at the bottom. www.amazon.com/TC-Motor-Racing-Carburetor-Filter-Manifold/dp/B07JFZG6FV/ref=mp_s_a_1_27?crid=1U2TY4C9A5DYQ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.cTpxb7J6NuEUgreGeByPWh2hyy5x4HzVro6deYpI4D-8I6eEPvdHKIHma9DkbPHShqMeebSP3vOLiBznLt8Y2PFay9lndmPLGSCdEHL2qtB5UtVaAI4TkxB7DMDdCwK-iyYUtdK6JYHhcOJHu9AbkPl6pp9CkRFnITSgthQiEOqhaQ_clduzuao7MJFgutWnrSD6Y9s8yGqjWZHjlOOHJQ.uhM0hoQ9CMDh7or57Ftk1IPWvv_yHfeixM8GsDdCeWQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=47cc+carb&qid=1720615645&sprefix=47cc+carb%2Caps%2C126&sr=8-27

Here is the line kit. The stock carb is much cheaper but these pumper carbs have advantages. Also once you have this adaptive intake, a tunable carb like a wt668 can be used for better performance. www.amazon.com/Zooma-G-Scooter-Lines-Fuel-Scooter/dp/B008C51ITM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1RO9X7R7VB11Z&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ZTzA2AugZm10Wj3nJy-yCejd2RjXPbekTlJCyfeYmoFV_KzL_FroyRarfiXaZac7fhq0JUVWHBE0nuICdc7gbVHjT6BskWci4ZbM0o14q-i_PU_9DBWnk5o8xVGw0sVyZk1ZAiH3124uYm3dw1UIppCxZljieu7c-D7tpm2DtICp_enmP09S1u4-5CSmcZCD_4DRq_Aw7Nx9R8XnQoHYYA.QIT1x7aWvf0Ar_2_MYT3AFz8Sjin1-lDzHNp6Z8EWaA&dib_tag=se&keywords=49cc+fuel+lines&qid=1720616089&sprefix=49cc+fuel+lines%2Caps%2C117&sr=8-3

@@bellajamesstillie743 This one did 25mph with great acceleration. Could run an 800w for about 27mph.

@@bdrgarage7039 I’m getting the exact same battery but a 1000 W motor and I don’t know how fast it’s gonna go

@@bellajamesstillie743 Is the motor 48v or 36v?

@@bdrgarage7039 48v

@@bellajamesstillie743 I see. This one is a 36v motor running 48v. So with a 48v 1000w running 48v lithium, I would say roughly 27ish mph. The overvolted ones get 50%more rpms which is where the higher speed comes from but need cool down after 10min of hard riding

Your welcome. Some need to pass on knowledge to the next gen. I need to make a few more in depth videos on some light porting and blueprinting. Maybe the quickest way for tear down too. I have that electric and gas race but need a lot of editing and life has been busy

@@Carter_Russell I cut off the "white" connectors and the battery had a "T" connector so I changed the controller battery connection to the same. Usually soddered and heat shrunk.

Any overvolted motor will heat up. If you ride hard, 10min with 30min cool down. If you ride 1/2-3/4 throttle, I ride for 30-40min. Periodically test the heat. The battery "most" of the time won't have any difference. Just make sure the continuous BMS is 35amp

@@bdrgarage7039 Thanks 👍

I bought the bike used, but usually assembly is installing the handle bars and wheels which are fairly easy with basic hand tools

Yes 44mm is the biggest, technically its 47cc. There might be some chainsaw cylinders you could try, I have not

What kind chainsaw cylinders do you recommend? I have a ton of chainsaw stuff!

@@jonbobskunkworks I honestly have not checked, however, it will be buy and test, I really should do that. Once half of my fleet is gone I will. I have been so busy with life and quick flips, I haven't done any videos

I’m digging into it. Thank you for the heads up

Wow, I totally forgot about it. Let me make a note and find that video tomorrow. EDIT the video is lost, I think I deleted it because it was a terrible video. I still have it even though it's for sale without the big battery. I will make a new one hopefully this week. Thanks.

Where's the video!

@@bigmac305 Alright, the camera is lost, been looking for a month. I ran 27mph with the 48v 1000w motor and 48v 1000w Fast Scooters controller, battery specs were 48v 20ah, with 35amp continuous and 75amp MAX

IF I changed the sprocket 30mph is obtainable BUT being pushed, the ride time is deminsished because the motor will heat up. But should be a solid 10-15min full throttle

@bdrgarage7039 I just ran 26 mph on similar set up. 36v I'm going to over volt to 54v. I'll let you know what I hit or upload video. I'm guessing 32mph hopefully. What's your guess. Thank you for responding

The spring holds it in with the cable inside of the spring. Let me know, maybe I can make a quick short for you.

Huh, nice, let me know!! I am interested in this

It is a mototec 36v 1000w electric dirt bike. Real fluid front shocks, and real rear gas shock. Nice bike

@@bdrgarage7039 same set up with sprocket and brake pad?

@@soioioioioioio34 I never tried to put it on a razor or anything so I didn't check any of that and I sold that bike

Oh yeah. Nice

@@bdrgarage7039 just hope they fit alright

Amazon or ebay, type 47cc carb

@@bdrgarage7039does it come with that plastic bracket?

@@jaxinyaboi5227 use this.... www.amazon.com/Filter-Stack-Carburetor-Stroke-Pocket/dp/B07VWPLGFK/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?crid=3RUDD14K6TPXW&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.RqdxUfEIhhstqDCBHEACZUE3mJr0WHhTyOZ5PrA4Km4zkk11udZkOUBy1FV31mOtJvtT44rJMcF-w5HKv-zSOeUn4KFCrgJi5RTdOKN3ImvD3UY-Tig7TSqSnjauQxbTKaQUV8n3XtCmn160-HhGL7ZMfajoaIGIKg1Xe4rDIALTNroBNLUzTKDhO4gG4liAAFFXTSkIT3YMxb1EiFgkKQ.ZndNSBhYE4zaSeMtrgxT6lPm2a_jiWwt3F7NS9lHevo&dib_tag=se&keywords=47cc+carb&qid=1716087872&sprefix=47cc+carb%2Caps%2C221&sr=8-7

@@bdrgarage7039thank you 🙏🏽

I always do, on these I cut off every 3rd, on piston ports I nip them 3/8"

Sorry, I am not sure what you're asking.

Space spark flug calibration in the electrode

Usually between 0.025"-0.028" gap on the spark plug

The RC are smaller and piston port. This is a pocket bike engine and a case reed. I have both

Damn!! I would love a dumpster ride!! Mine runs but I have not ridden it much. I also picked up another early (1989/1990) sport in red. I have a rebuilt G2D, I will throw on a jetpro pipe and upgraded carb.

Nice!! I didn't realize how popular they are, next one I find I might keep or post on ebay.

Ha, I guess I need to teach to a few things. The brake was holding the wheel which I fixed, the wiring??? Was a complete idiot install, which I used appropriate connectors for the repair, AND fixed. Sold as a complete runner.

It is not for sale. I still ride it. There are some always for sale, keep checking market place or offer up.

This scooter has had a few stages, but its current 36v 14ah lithium, 36v 1000w controller, and 24v 500w currie motor, it is an eat 25mph and a peak of 27mph with 200lbs on it with a full charge. All fit in the stock locations. This particular video it has 3, 12v lead acid, stock 250w motor and sprockets with 36v 500w controller, hit 21mph with 200lb person.

I don't have experience with that engine but, higher compression can be gained by shaving the head, or a thinner head gasket. I don't know the spec of that engine, you don't want to add so much compression that you have to run super high octane. fuel.

The 2 piece will have higher compression. Your X1 is a piston port and there is no cylinder with the open top for a direct replacement. But it has been done by others. You can chop the top or your cylinder but machining will be needed. However, you can pull out the base cylinder gasket and use yamabond to seal the surface and gain more compression that way.

@bdrgarage7039 i see what you mean, any cylinder you recommend as a replacement wich has better porting and compression? Also any forks as mine are bent

@@carlosdavidgalarza9338 Unfortunately for the forks, I believe they are not available. They should be able to be straightened or find a used parts bike. As for the cylinder, all the companies they use to make performance ones are long gone. BUT it can be ported by you. The best way is a little, 1mm each side of the exhaust port and arch the top slightly. Widen the base transfer ports and its already better. Make sure to taper the inside edges so the rings don't catch.

The one with the filter goes to the barbed fitting. Thanks

Hmmm, I don't know without looking, but it was a simple install of the 36v controller and throttle, than a new connector for the battery. Maybe I will do one if I find another cheap E100.

Nice comment! I agree 100%, many I have bought over the years had loose, missing, or broke mounting bolts and the new replacements are cheap.

I can not guarantee anything. BUT in my experience, lithium ion can be safe if you use a 2.5amp charger or less, don't charge right after a run and don't run it right after a charge. I don't trust them but live with them. I never charge over night. I always check on them or are next to them while charging.

Ok! Have you used this bike and put it under heavy load for testing purposes?

@@sunngamer1210 Yes, I test them all. This one is my friends bike, I believe it was a 35amp continuous BMS and 75amp max. Works well up hills, some grass and dirt, but it is mostly ridden on the street. (Allowed here) It does a constant 25mph, it will out accelerate my 24v 500w MX500, running 36v 1000w controller and a 36v 20ah lithium battery, mine also is a 35amp continuous and 75amp max. But mine has more top speed. 25-27mph but usually a steady 26.

My bike I originally tried a 36v 10ah, it had, I believe, a 25 or 30amp continuous with a max of 50. That kept blowing fuses under heavy load.

@bdrgarage7039 and origional gearing right? (Motor and sprocket)

I find them on used pocket bikes and I swap with a crappy newer one and sell the bike. OR take the newer one and have a shop fab up a bigger chamber. Makes a huge difference.

​@@bdrgarage7039 ok thx

I did. Ended up buying a whole knew brake setup, fixed the wiring, etc. I should have kept it being the first gen, but sold it. It rode nice even with a 200lb guy on it.

Color doesn't matter BUT I do the supply line in the upper hole of the tank (fits the filter better) and the primes in the lower hole. On the carb the supply goes to the barbed fitting and the pump line goes to the smooth (with nipple) line on the carb.

I've got the supply line in the lower lol. Will I be ok? Gonna get some gas today. Thank you!

@@Grantalonus I have done it both ways, the filter is on an angle in that hole. Should be fine, just make sure those fittings are right at that edge so it won't leak.

Oh yeah, bigger belly, shorter front pipe. I have a few nice ones.

What exactly do you need to know? You will need a 36v controller/throttle, and three 12v lead acid batteries OR one 36v lithium battery. Lithium is better all around, charging, install, and ride time. Both would need a new charger.

What the controller for? Doesnt the acooter already have one​@@bdrgarage7039

I understand, I actually haven't finished that cylinder yet, I don't have the tools and I have not found a machine shop that will finish it for me. If I do, I will post up a video.

Ha, you are not wrong. I have one frame I will use to run these engines. Just picked up a complete Lucky 7 with an old skool original snake pipe.

@@bdrgarage7039 Nice, you makin a vid anytime soon?

@@jmrides777 it is winter now. I have plans for a few in the spring.

Some believe the transfer port fingers are important but they take up space that could be more air and fuel. The older better cylinders did not have fingers (dividers). My opinion is they were put there for emissions. If you leave them and do some porting you will still gain power. Remember these engines are power tool engines, not performance engines like say a honda dirtbike where they are built almost to the max. These were built for longevity. With all the right work, these can be built with triple the power.

​​@@bdrgarage7039 which one would you prefer, with divider or without??? Am i gonna trim my divider or not? What is the difference? Which one is better??

@@nicky2238 I do use both, only because the nondividers are very hard to find. I have thinned them out and also cut half out. I would stay away from the Hei Ma cylinders (the worst) and the MSD cylinders. Reason, the exhaust port is too low and at BDC the piston is still heavily in the window, which you don't want.

www.amazon.com/XLJOY-44mm-Cylinder-Piston-Pocket/dp/B01N9BSB9M/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?crid=DR2UPLJHF2D6&keywords=47cc+cylinder&qid=1704688403&sprefix=%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-11 Here is that TM head but it has the dividers. Widen the exhaust port by 1mm each side (at the inside), and arch the top, don't touch the lower inside, but the lower outside can be widened.

@@bdrgarage7039 thankyou sooooooo sooo muchhhh.... 🙏

I would have to search for it. I forgot about this video. It is a straight bolt on when you have the correct intake. Then a hole in the tank for the new fuel lines. This bike is gone but I do have the engine.