Відео

www.chnarchery.com/products/junxing-h7-25-ilf-competition-recurve-bow-riser But also check this: www.toparchery.com/products/25-ilf-riser-right-hand-archery-recurve-bow-riser-aluminum-competition-shooting

Depends on size of fish, but a piece of drain pipe (4" min) with Uniseals for attaching. Or just have separate ones (but you may need more than one pump and filter).

These arrows are flying alot better with the 120grn up front and with the spin vanes. For the price, these arrows are great. Sound like you are only going to get a few month of shooting this year. I get annoyed when we have a few days of rain. This winter, so far, has been quite dry with little wind. It's been chilly for here 😁 but not too bad and we have had some great days for shooting. If I have been well, I guess my average is about 100 arrows 5 days a week. My issue is my target is being shot to bits. I have a new one coming but it has been delayed on the ship from Europe. These first world issues....🤣

@@british1964 possibly may sell some.

Also be interested to try those limbs that you were talking about I’ve ordered myself some £30 limbs that they’ll take about four weeks to get here

@@british1964 yep, no worries. Can bring a set down.

I did that when I made some adjustments. Yes it moved the fletched arrows across but the bare shaft landed in the same weak position. To get a good tune I dropped 1lb on draw weight and this made the arrows tune better.

@@Australian_Made I like the weight forward. Seems to help with arrow flight.

Now this is why I like to see what everyone is shooting. For me, even shooting 40lb with Victory VAPs I shot a 600 spine with 140 grn points, and they only just tunes. For 36lb, both Elong and Pandarus Icepoints tune a bit on the stiff side, but very close at 700 spine. Arrow are 28.5" carbon to carbon with 120 grn points in the 700 spine. You must have a long draw length and that is why the 500 spine works.

@@brookvalleylife724 I don’t have a long draw length, I think I’m comfortable with 29”, giving a ‘stick out’ (welding term). Using the full length 500 spine, the theory is, as I move up in limbs, I can cut it down to match the 38 and the 46 lbs limbs. I’m planning to cut 1.5” (1/4” at a time) off when I get the 38lbs Cornerstone. I should be 30.5” I’m planning to use 100gn points if I need further tuning. Secretly, I want to ware out these Victory in order to justify buying new arrows

I see. Should work well. I have just changed some 100grn points in my 800 spine arrows for 120grn. It made the arrows stiffer... guess the extra length of point inside the arrow is making it stiffer than the change in point weight should make it weaker.

​@@brookvalleylife724 Welcome to 3·2mm without Tungsten length shank

​@@brookvalleylife724 😉 .

Fingers crossed for you.

It's a good riser. Well made and shoots great.

Why is that? and what do you use?

​@@brookvalleylife724 CA is too much trouble as its bond eventually becomes brittle & DAMNED HARD to remove it.

@Australian_Made ok. I think I have never used it. In fact I have used stick on spin vanes virtually all my archery career. I have used them all from the real spin wings, gas pro, spider vanes, pandarus and the Aliexpress vanes I use now. So much easier to repair and fletch.

​@@brookvalleylife724 I currently use Flex Bond. ( by Flex Fletch ) ✔

Yea 😁😁😁🎊🎉

So you watch Mr Hann as well. He is a good one to watch as he tells the truth. However funny you say about the spin vane comparison, as I shot it this morning. Possibly next weeks video. And yes I prefer spin vanes as well as they are just so easy to use. With the normal plasti vanes, I always seem to have some that just seem to fall off when they get tapped by another arrow. Other stick fast and are a nightmare to remove, so I just don't know??? Here in NZ we are also starting to bust a lot of pin nocks. Must be a Southern Hemisphere thing...😁🤣😂

I was making Victory arrows here b4 they had fletched ones I'm the stores. All cuz of Mr. Hann. Always 👍 his videos but I wish he would adjust his sight b4 shooting a whole round or a large group. 😕

@@josephtreadlightly5686 if Victory did 3.2mm I/D I would have a look at them. I think they are a great arrow. I do have some VAPs, and yes because good old Steven reviewed them and they were a good price. They have gone up now though. It is good to see how different arrows react out of the bow. I do the same. Shoot an end with my arrow of choice and center them, and then see what other arrows do. 😁🙂

Why the sad face?

Hi Joseph. This is a great setup. The N3 limbs and the ET-11 work amazing together. The stabs are great for a beginner. Having a cold really does bring you down. 3weeks of it is no good. Hope you feel better soon. I think I may have had the beginning of another cold but plenty of vitamin c has helps. I shot a fita 18m yesterday and only shot a 521. Felt off, but today felt a lot better. Did about 150 arrows and was good even though it was a bit chilly for us (nothing like you get). Hope the glasses work well for you. Keep well and have fun shooting.

Hi. In my environment the IBC base does not rust.

The riser on the left is the Topoint Unison

@@brookvalleylife724 awesome i love the colours

​@@brookvalleylife724 I got mine today as my first bow

Check below.

Ho Tom. Good idea about showing the fit. Will try to fit it into a video coming soon.

Yes I know, I shouldn't tar everyone with the same brush. I have a few American friends that have purchased Chinese gear and they love it.

Still working hard on it, as well as my drawing arm and trying to keep my drawing hand in the right position.

Hi Gordon. We were only shooting 30m for the matchplay. Great fun but really cold as we were supposed to be in our summer. My body didn't like it and decided not to move properly.🥶

No worries. Great bit of kit. Just really scratched the surface with it at the moment.

Subaru has now gone, but still in Sunny Nelson. Great to have another Kiwi watching the videos.

Yes, they are a great budget brand and great for around the house DIY.

Agree. I gotta mixture of Ozito an Einhell cordless power tools. With spare batteries, inc some Chinese ones. Works for me...

@@passiton3801 Still got all mine. Still all working fine.

Nope. It's me. Do it on very bow I have from Hoyt (3 different risers with different grips ) to these Nik'a grips, I have actually moved my grip to ensure my grip it correct. Just me and how I hold my arm to keep my shoulder down. This is one of the things I say when asked about coaching. Everyone is different, and you need to see the archer shooting to find out what their differences are. It's funny because it turns out I had been holding my grip incorrectly for years. It's good now and a lot more consistent.

@@brookvalleylife724 t

Got it sorry damn slow lol

Yes, I agree with the spine alignment. I will try the nock turning to see what happens.

Cheers rudi

It works well. I'm very impressed with it but wish it had USB-C. I got some extra picatinny holder for other bow so I can try on 4 bows now. Cornerstone limbs are excellent for the price.

I would recommend the C2 Cornerstone limbs that r lighter & faster. From all accounts they shoot similar with the feel of the C1🎉. I shoot my N3's quite a bit more since they r a step up but really hold very well @ full draw. They almost feel like there's a letoff to them.🎉😮

@@josephtreadlightly5686 C2 is 10% carbon and shoot faster?

@@peterxyz3541 They r quite a bit slower than the N3's. I don't think the C1's split the difference between the C2 & N3 🤔. I own the C1's but they made the C2 afterwards so they had a value model to the N3.

I got my C1 limbs just a couple of weeks b4 a guy did a full Nika limb breakdown on the C1, C2 & N3. Wish I waited ✋️.

Yes they are and even had the orbital doing dry wall sanding as well.

Yes, when I did this I was just getting back to shooting and still had an injury. Alot better now. 500 would be way too stiff. I shoot 800 with my indoor set up set at 31lb, 700 for my 36lb setup and 600 with my 40lb setup.

@@brookvalleylife724 Maybe I wrong assumed that you were using 100 grain tips and longer arrows. I've never seen 700 shaft at my local shops, now I know.

@@kengunnett2017 on the 800 it was 100gr points, but the 700 had 120 gr points and 600 140 gr points.. Got a fellow archer at the club shooting 32lb but needs 900 spine arrows. Crazy how different setups need different spine arrows.

@@brookvalleylife724 You have me wanting to buy a dozen 800 shafts now, thanks...

I have never really taken any notice of this and only ever got RH fletches. Would I see a difference if I tried LH fletches. Maybe another experiment to do 😁

Cheers Ronny. I always try to fletch along the writing or the alignment marks. It was fun to experiment and see what happens. Spine seems to be extremely important with arrows. Maybe an in depth look for another video??

@@brookvalleylife724 I assume that the cheap arrows used are not "SpLined" out. They put their logo on the shaft as it falls out of the machine. I also use the Skylon and I can't imagine that the logo is always at the hardest or softest point, although this doesn't necessarily have to be the seam. That would be too easy and would make the SpLine test** pointless. BTW: The SpLine tolerances of the Skylon are not that bad compared to other arrow manufacturers. (1,4 -3%) **But,i also think there is a bit of voodoo involved in the SpLinetest of carbon arrows! 😉

@@HallyuKa I didn't spine align them. My Skylons arrows seem pretty good and the Pandarus were very good. I don't think i'm good enough to see any spine alignment differences when I shoot (at the moment). I still shoot ok scores but yes it's very much of some witchcraft going on and if you get too involved, it can scramble your brain 🤪

Cheers Mike. Will give it a go.

​@@brookvalleylife724 I tooo have no experience with clocking to learn their natural/preferred rotation. My understanding to the logic of the topic is to start at a metre, record results, move to a metre & 20cm, record results, move to a metre & 40cm, record results, move to a metre & 60, [...], 1m 80, [...] and that is enough. Compare results, and verify direction of rotation. My understanding to the logic of the topic is that starting out at 5 metres already has a possiblity of 540° & 720° of rotation and such like. With the risk of that much twist, your results have the potential to be [err, hummm] `twisted´. 😉

@@Australian_Made Looks like I will have to do another shoot to un-twist the results and see what happens 😁

Agree with you Rick. It's fun to see these things and if by some small margin you get better accuracy, I will look at it. For beginners this is something you don't really need to worry about. But it was fun.

@@brookvalleylife724 Fun to watch as well. Thanks.

Ooh. Good question. I will try and see what happens. Both nocks were from the same batch at the same time purchased but from Ali express, like all the other I use but it's worth a try to see. Thanks for the question.😁

@@brookvalleylife724 if you do another testrun you might also try to use brand new nocks. It's just an idea that a nock that is just a little bit worn out or bent might have influence 😉 Thank's for your testing and all the other videos giving knowledge 👍

Well Andrew I've never done much clocking arrows but I've always fletched with the left wing helical & never the right. I have done alot of bare shaft tuning & I think once I keep turning the 1/8 of a turn in the right direction that I can always get the bare shaft eventually to hit the target @ 90*. Recently I found that with a riser shooting off the shelf I would get a nock high even though the shaft hit the target @ 90*. But the same string & bow with a NAP Flipper rest totally eliminated the nock high bare shaft. But I've never had left helical style fail me. But I have 2 different sets of arrows which I bought with right feathers on them. They are by far the worst grouping arrows I have & the spine is fine. 😮 So I will stay with left & the hell with the rest, including the MN Monsoon season here😮🎉😢.

@@josephtreadlightly5686 This is my first look at clocking arrows. Was quite surprised. I have always had right handed fletching and never thought about the sets that would "fly" how I wanted then too. It was good to see it mostly worked though. That shooting off the shelf and nock high could also be due to spine alignment. There are so many variables, you could be chasing your tail all day long...😁

The limbs feel a lot more forgiving for me. A bad shot still hits in a good spot. Nik'a have done a great job with these. Think it will be hard to beat in the future.

@@brookvalleylife724 yeah that's right. I think someone that play barebow will love this limb while someone play recurve needed time to be comfortable with release.

@@muhammadamiruddinzainudin9828 Very much so. This is already winning barebow competitions. I like this limb because it doesn't stack. I like the smoothness of them, however there are some who prefer the limbs to stack as they close to the clicker. Guess it comes down to personal choice, but for quality, they are good.

Very much so. I had an issue with keeping my head down. It may have been due to me wearing glasses but I am really trying to get a fixed head position now.

9.55mm. The N3 limbs are 9.83mm. Cheers

Thanks👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

crazy that there are so many way to do one thing with the same equipment....

Ok that's a big issue. Mine went on fine and I got a spare as well that fits fine. I would contact Topmaq as that's where I got mine.

Big call but I think so. are they worth the extra money??? That is a hard one and depends on what you are after, what you shoot and at what level and if you can afford them. Don't forget the original N3 limbs. I shoot them on my indoor setup and they are very good. These just give a little more of everything.

Hi, It's Andy here, Joseph is one of my subscribers. As for moving the string in your sight picture, once you are at your normal anchor , it really depend on where you put your bow arm. If you move it slightly right the string will look like it moves left and visa versa. Hope this helps.

@@brookvalleylife724 Sorry Andy, new to UA-cam posting. In fact I had to create a channel just so I could ask you the question, so this is my second ever post. Your answer was very helpful, thank you, but, if I move slightly right to adjust my string picture, now I'm aiming "off target"? Do I turn my whole body to a slightly open stance or do I adjust the sight pin right or left to get back to gold? New to archery too lol. I've subscribed to your channel and looking forward to watching the rest of your content. Thanks Steve

@trujedi Hey Steve, no worries 😄. As for you moving and now aiming off, yes it would be. You would need to find which works best for you. And set up that way. If you tried to shoot as you do now it would not have good results until you reset your bow and got used to it. Hope this makes sense.