Відео

Please disregard, I found some and ordered them. I hope I don't have the issues that the poster below had with fit.

www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0D315H5Q2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title they are skateboard truck bearings apparently. any ^)*RS bearing will do depends if you want to go to the extreme of using ceramic hybrid.

On some but not these they don't have a retained bolt for some reason probably because they are the cheeper groups, trust me if I could self extract I would. If you look at the BB axel retainer bolt I took out it was similar to a Square taper system crank retainer bolts.

I know, I said the same thing. However, I'm not saying I'm converted.... I got a bike with them already installed. So I ran it for a season. Lower pressures make the shite roads in Yorkshire more comfortable and they do appear to have a lower rolling resistance (that I can't get my head around). Plus no punctures. Are they easy to live with.... No, But I know what I'm doing with them. would I recommend anyone switching to them...No unless they know how to fix issues at the roadside.

Thanks you your feedback has been noted along with your inability to use capitals in the correct place for English. Bye.

oh and don't let the workshop door hit your arse on the way out,

I'm not sure why a lot of people were hating on the GTs. they made great BMXs back in the day and are a lot better than equivalent spec Specialized.

It's a nightmare, I think there were a few clips and a hidden screw. Unfortunately I didn't record the strip down as I thought it was just going to be a dodgy switch. I don't do parts, least not for vacuums. All the parts ar actually available on Amazon. I think the belts and motors are the same for nearly all the models.

I’ll blame the highlights software for this one. Though chain whips are a pain, I swap about 3 cassettes a week. The cassette pliers are much easier.

🤷‍♂️

lol, I was waiting for a steel is real, I started my racing career in an Elswick Stag with Reynolds 531. Lovely bike! though I also remember a lot of bikes (and I mean a lot) had stress fractures so it wasn’t as people remember the good old days of steel.

Thanks, I've been looking at your site to try and find a solution. TBH Planet X screwed it up originally and I've given up with it and bough a Defy to use as my winter / hills bike. I like to ramble it's more of a musty one experience and I can't be arsed to spend hours editing it gets in the way of coaching and riding.

Oh that reminds me, Thank you. I managed to work out what Bottom brakes I needed for the defy so I could use a really old Carbon Power2Max power meter. I've never named to work out why it didn't fit as all the forums said it should work in a standard Push fit Shimano Hollowtec BB. But it didn't it was too tight and I had to "adjust" the plastic inserts to make it work. Anyway it should have been the FSA Mega Exo 24mm Pushfit. Fits perfect now.

Not in a while

I did open a lot of cash on a CNC ceramic bottom bracket. but what ever I do it's not going to get away from the BB hole in the frame is egg shaped and the shell moves.

I know gutted, but I kind of knew once I saw the extrusion was deformed. I try to fix the stuff bike shops won't touch.

I know gutted, but I kind of knew once I saw the extrusion was deformed. I try to fix the stuff bike shops won't touch.

thank you. If someone made it I'll have a go a fixing it.

the wheel are are just used as a guide. Wheel entering depends on the wheel design itself. Not all wheels are actually centred some are slightly offsets so Don't worry too much unless you are building from scratch. If building from scratch you ten to use a centre jig as well. I have a set of camping Honda wheels that are 3mm offset from centre to accommodate the freewheel hub on their spoke layout. You also see this on disc sheelsets too. Back to the guides. I tend to use these just to find the high spots and for most wheels that's good enough. but if you are really bothered you can go down to fractions of millimetres using the dial gauge. Back in the day when I used to build wheels I just has a set of old forks with a nail I used to clamp onto the fork with a jubilee clip on each side. worked fine for me.

@@Lockdown_workshop I guess I was over thinking it. Thank you! Is a center jig the same as a dishing tool? Only use that when you're building a wheel from scratch.

Put the wheel in and set one indicating caliper near the rim, can be either side. Flip the wheel around without moving the indicator, if the rim isn't centred or dished properly, the gap to the indicator will not be the same as earlier. On most bikes, the rim should be centred on the hub, I think that only Cannondale went through a phase where they used an asymmetric design on the rear wheel

@@Ronald-qj5nx THANK YOU!

Sadly it isn’t that. If you look the free hub is rocking on the axle. Something has collapsed in the bearing department. Stay tuned to find out what….. my money is on the inner freehub race

Thanks :-)

there are days when I wish I didn't have tubeless. though just swapped out a tyre on my Propel and 10mins start to finish no issues no leaks. some you win :-) if I had videoed it I can guarantee it would be pink goo everywhere!

It wasn';t I forget to turn on the receiver unit and I also forgot to remember to press the unit recorder. so I had to do some narration in the middle. Sorry new tech.

Harsh

I used to say that, couldn't understand what the benefits were for Tubeless on road. But I've been relatively trouble free on my own setup for a year. So still undecided. TBH I would be riding Tubs if I could afford it like I did as a kid.

Unknown, It was on the bike when I bought it but I've had a few GP5000 TLs in that have been 2 years old and the rubber is shot.

It's a personal preference and don't take it too seriously, I poke a bit of fun at them. I ride with other cyclist who use them to keep up with the group ride. they have their place...but I ride a Ducati Monster too so that's my e-bike. I do think the e-bike riders that mod their bike and then go and ride the trails at renters at ridiculous speed need to go and get a motocross as it was very dangerous how thy were riding and not respectful of beginners on normal pedal power. I also notice their bike skills were zero and had to slow down for simple obstacles a lot more than I did. I beat most of them.

Thanks for the feedback. I don't get a lot of time to edit my videos as I have a fill time job and I volunteer coach a lot of athletes

Fair comment. Most people riding tubeless would be clueless what to do.

Difficult question, the BTF Coaching answer….”it depends”. without seeing the bike or understanding your aspirations it’s hard to say. However. Started on a second hand aluminium specialised allez with Sora gear that was very old and nor very well. I rode that bike for 2 seasons before moving to a Carbon Holdsworth. There is nothing wrong with Sora very robust, can be a bit fiddly to index sometimes.

Oh and regards the bike. I know the rider and coach him. This is a very solid bike. He rides it hard and all year round. All the work done was normal wear and tear.

lol your right. I’ve done that many Giants. Thanks for spotting that.

A tad rude everyone has to start somewhere and can’t afford to throw stupid money down the drain. I used to destroy many a 3K bike riding an aluminium hard tail just like that bike. You can’t buy talent.

I know, I work on too many Giants. I noticed a lot of GT haters out there. Some of my favourite 80s BMXs were GT. the GT freestyle for one was better than the skyway TA.

Thanks. It’s in regular use with the athlete it was donated to.

Thanks!

Cool idea

Cool idea

Thank you again.

The goo I use does appear to dry out and GCN also refers to sealant drying out over a period of time, though they do contradict themselves on how long that is. You can see on one of my videos that I have to scrape dried out sealant from the rim and tyre where it's turned into a paste. As most of these are water based I suppose you could add water periodically as the sealing media is still in the tyre. I'll have a look at milKit as I'm not tied to a particular product, thanks for the tip. I currently use Muck-off as I was given a big bottle of it by one of my regulars. Personally I still run tubeless on my Giant Propel and I'm about to convert to Tubeless on my winter rims which don't require tape (Campagnolo Zonda). Watch out for that video. I was also going to attempt setting up tubeless on a non-tubeless 26" rim with non tubeless tyres for a laugh using gorilla tape. Haven't got round to that yet.

@Lockdown_workshop It's the difference between latex and synthetic latex. Latex will dry and leave a layer of rubber on the inside of the rim, and I find that the sealant's effectiveness decreases over time as the latex solidifies and leaves the 'water' element. Synthetic sealants like milKit do not behave like this and some may argue that lacking the aggressive drying capabilities it does not seal as well. milKit compensates for this by adding small fibres as well as being relatively thick as sealants go. I set up tyres that are 35c or bigger as tubeless. The pressure is low enough for sealant to be effective and if it all goes wrong I can just pop a small bit of tyre off the rim, wipe off the milKit back to the rubber and slap on a glue patch.

I have a whole fleet of these. The wife keeps buying them. I have 2 with a Kawasaki engine with the engine mounted fuel tank. The others are Tecumseh engines of various ages. More vids on these to follow as they are all a bit sick.

Thank you

Thanks for the heads up, I don't get a lot of outboards in. I do keep hinting the lake I swim at should let me service their outboards for the safety boats.

Thanks you, glad you appreciate the chaos :-)