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Thanks for the suggestion! I have tried comparing using the ND2 filter and compared that to underexposing by 1 or 2 stops and I feel like the ND filter gave better exposure and colours. It is a bit disappointing that someone buying this camera needs to also purchase the ND filter set ($$) but I am glad I have them. At the end of the day, the key is not using the camera's meter at all and using Sunny 16 or using an external meter when it isn't bright sunshine. It is too bad that the meter isn't useful. Thanks again for sharing and for your comment.

Thanks for the comment. Why don't you want a screen? If you can choose to print or not print, how would you know if the photo worked without a screen?

Thanks for the comment. So the point of the video is not about using different lenses and focal lengths to give you the equivalent field of view. I covered that in another video: ua-cam.com/video/n-wR1FjWXSs/v-deo.html The point of this video is to show that when I am capturing portraits with a lens (like a typical 85mm portrait lens), I will have a blurrier background when using a full frame camera because I will be closer to my subject when using a full frame camera. The closer I am to my subject, the blurrier the background will be.

Thanks for the comment. I am so glad the video was useful. I would love to try the Nikon Z 135mm 1.8 Plena one day soon! One of the best things about the 85mm compared to the 105mm is the size. It is so much smaller and easier to carry around.

@ I actually liked the colors and tones of the 85mm better, as compared to the 105mm, in your review. It appears that the only major difference is a slight bit more bokeh with the 105, which to me, doesn’t warrant spending the extra money to achieve. My only main reason I would add the 105 to my collection would be to gain that little extra focal length on my old D300, which would be closer to the 135 on my Z9. Plus, I can use the 105 on any of my bodies, where the Z 135 S would limit me to just Z mount bodies. I think I might have just talked myself back into the 105!

@@subman719 Thanks for sharing. I totally get that the Z 135mm F1.8 will only work on my Z bodies (Z9 and Z8). Currently the only Z mount lens I own is a Tamron 35-150mm F2-2.8 which is fantastic. I have a bunch of film and digital bodies so I like to pick up F mount lenses that I can use with them. All that said, I don't regret owning the 105mm and if you can pick one up second hand for a good price then it may be worth it to you.

Thanks so much!

I've never used a Minolta Dynax 7 or any Minolta so I couldn't even begin to give you a comparison. The best I can do is from Chat GPT: Key Differences Build Quality: The F6 is built to a more professional standard with a higher focus on durability and longevity, while the Dynax 7 is slightly more consumer-oriented, though still a very solid camera. Autofocus & Performance: The F6 has the edge in autofocus performance, with faster, more accurate focusing and a broader range of lenses to choose from. It’s a better choice for fast-paced action, sports, or situations requiring precision. The Dynax 7's autofocus is decent but might not match the F6 in terms of speed or accuracy. Lens Availability: Nikon’s F-mount system has a long history and a massive selection of lenses, which may give it an edge over the Minolta A-mount lenses, which are less abundant and more specialized now that Minolta is no longer in the business of making new lenses. Ease of Use: The Dynax 7 is generally simpler to use, with fewer buttons and a more straightforward interface. The F6 offers more advanced features but might be more complex, especially for beginners. Price: The Dynax 7 is typically more affordable than the F6, which may make it a better option if you’re on a budget. Conclusion If you prioritize build quality, durability, and cutting-edge autofocus technology, and are willing to invest in a higher-end camera, the Nikon F6 is the better choice. If you're looking for a more affordable, user-friendly camera that still offers excellent features and decent performance, the Minolta Dynax 7 is a great option. Both cameras are fantastic, but the F6 will appeal to those who want a more professional experience and are willing to pay for it, while the Dynax 7 provides excellent value for the money with solid performance.

Thanks so much! It is an absolutely brilliant camera and will continue to be the film camera I reach for the most when going out to capture photos.

Hey - thanks so much. You can't edit a photo afterwards and apply the lens effects afterwards unfortunately.

Different sensors will give you different qualities of images. A 10 year old FF sensor will not be as good as a new APSC sensor. Generally, APSC sensors are fewer megapixels than FF sensors so that can also have an effect. The good thing about putting a FF lens on a APSC sensor camera is that the sharpest part of a lens is the middle and the edges are less sharp. A FF lens will project an image which the edges will not be part of the image on an APSC sensor. So that part will be sharp. But if you captured the same image with a FF sensor and cropped it, it would also be using the sharpest part of the lens.

IKR!? I took the lens off a mirrorless camera and noticed the aperture stayed open and my first thought was I was worried I might damage the lens or the camera. But then I thought this might be useful...

Thanks so much for sharing your experience. It is really helpful to hear that other people are having similar problems. That is really weird that the flash isn't syncing with the exposures. I haven't tried the flash but I will definitely check and see if I am having the same problems. Thanks again.

Thanks so much for sharing your similar experience of frustration with the meter of the Instaflex TL70 Plus. The denial and gaslighting from Mint has been really frustrating.

@@thephotographytoolkit I use a light meter app, which has helped me out greatly too.

Thanks so much. A photographer friend of mine connected me with a guy (Carrot Lim Choo How) in Malaysia who made it and sent it to me. facebook.com/carrot9817/ instagram.com/carrot_limchoohow

@@thephotographytoolkit Thanks a lot for that information 🙂

@@Thomas20271 Happy to help

So you would like to see an APSC sensor camera with two lenses of the same focal length and one is FF lens and the other is APSC? An APSC sensor is just a crop of a full frame sensor so the results should be the same that you see in this video. Also, two different lenses may give slightly different looks depending on the lens so it might not be an accurate test. That is why I used the same lens for my test.

@thephotographytoolkit the reason behind this is because i tested it with my A6400 1 is kit lens and other one is FF24mm and I happen to get the same field of view when the the kit lens is on 24mm, this is the reason I wanted a creator to help me solve this problem if happen to do one of this video plss tag me much appreciated!!

@@husht1 Thanks for the reply. So which lenses exactly did you use?

@@thephotographytoolkit 24-240mm sony

@@husht1 I do have a FF 35mm lens and a APSC 35mm lens. I have a bunch of videos that I have lined up to make but if I have time I will see if I can do some tests.

Thanks so much!

Glad it was helpful for you. BTW, I LOVE my 70-200 FL E lens. Amazing.

The internal memory can hold about 45 pictures. But I put a micro SD card into the camera and it can hold a lot more depending on the size of the card.

The depth of the colors are not there.

Is it the same for photos that you are printing from your phone? It is possible that the pack of paper that you have is a dud. Maybe a new different pack will be better.

Polaroid loves to say that every Polaroid is unique. No Polaroid camera has a way to digitally store the image. The only way to digitize a polaroid is to scan it. Or use your phone to take a photo of the polaroid.

Thanks so much! If you are interested, check out my 5 favourite creative techniques: ua-cam.com/video/fsDirWOgxms/v-deo.html

Thank you so much! I absolutely LOVE the diversity of Singapore. It is so much fun to photograph.

Thanks for the question. In the early days of a camera obscura, people didn't capture a photograph. Most of the time, people would just look at the image and some people would draw the image. This particular camera obscura does have an attachment which allows you to mount a camera and take a picture of the glass plate under a protective black cloth. You can see me doing that in this video: ua-cam.com/video/2RJrGIdYvGs/v-deo.html

I guess some people might say that.

Thanks for sharing. I agree that the lens that you choose will make a big difference to your photos and videos. Directly connected with the lens that you choose is the distance that you are away from your subject. The closer you are to your subject, the blurrier the background will be. Using the same lens and the same framing with both FF and APSC cameras, you will be closer with the full frame camera and have a blurrier background.

Thanks so much. I try to make content that is something I would want to watch and not just make content for the sake of posting videos.

@@thephotographytoolkit Too many UA-camrs lack your ethics. You're welcome and thank you.

@@PetCactusA_HarmlessLittlePrick Thanks. I think lots of UA-camrs fall prey to the algorithm and make themselves post every week no matter how good or bad the content.

Thanks for the suggestion! I'll see if I can get my hands on one.

Thanks for sharing. No assumptions made here. Please don't make assumptions that every UA-cam title applies to every single person watching UA-cam videos. 🤣 I do love a zoom lenses too. The examples from the video were captured with zoom lenses. You asked what's the point. The point is that you can't just multiply the focal length of a full frame lens when you put it on a APSC camera and you will get the same image as you would on a full frame sensor.

Thanks for the comment. I don't have any Tamron G2 lenses so I can't be sure. I might be able to try them out at my local camera shop the next time I am out capturing images with my F6. Which specific G2 lenses do you have?

@thephotographytoolkit oh if you have the opportunity to try them I'll be very happy but I don't expect you to do it for me! I have Tamron 90mm 2.8, 24-70mm 2.8, 18-400mm, 10-24mm. None of the aperture and autofocus work on F60 so I wonder if that's the case with F6. Also I have Nikon 18-140 and 35 1.8 (DX) and the aperture works but autofocus does not. If you have them I'd be happy to know if they work on F6 because this will prob convince me to get it, while right now I really want it but if it means that I need to get more lenses to enjoy the full functionality then I might skip the purchase since there are other priorities ☺️ thank you for your time

@@RotlochStudio So you have a mix of lenses. Some are for APSC sensors (sometimes referred to as cropped sensor) and some are for full frame sensors and film cameras. Your APSC lenses are the 18-400mm, 10-24mm, 18-140mm and 35mm f1.8. The APSC lenses will not work with the F6 (or any film camera or full frame digital camera) because the image won't cover all of the film or full frame sensor and you will have black parts on your film. However, the 90mm and the 24-70mm f2.8 are full frame lenses and should work with film cameras like the F6. I went to some of my local second hand cameras stores today with my F6 and they had the 90mm Tamron Di and I tried it out. I was able to change the aperture and focus without any problems. They didn't have the 24-70mm but I would guess that it works. I hope that helps.

@thephotographytoolkit hey, thank you for helping me out with this! I really appreciate it 😊 yes on some of the lenses the vignetting is obvious but on a lens like the 35mm one it is barely noticeable, I was quite shocked, so that's the only lens I'm using right now because the aperture works at least. I'll look to get the F6 next year, and enjoy some more professional photography with that beast. Thank you again and thanks for.tne nice review, looking forward to seeing more content with the camera and enjoy the NYE tonight!

@@RotlochStudio Happy to help! Thanks for your comments. Happy New Year!

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks so much for the comment. The problem is that there aren't a lot of options for super fast APSC lenses. If you want the equivalent aperture to a full frame F1.4 lens, you will need to get a F0.93 lens.

@@thephotographytoolkithonestly, viltrox 75 1.2 produces such beautiful Bokeh.

@@eastcoastiso3523 Thanks for sharing.

Absolutely. The Nikon F was modelled after the Nikon SP rangefinder which is turn was competing with the Leica M3.

That is great that you are having a better experience. I wish I had your camera! I honestly don't think the camera is exposing for the shadows. The camera is just very inconsistent. I tried every lighting condition I could. I captured images where the lighting was even and it was the same exposure across the whole scene. I confirmed this with a handheld meter. Even with even light, sometimes the camera would overexpose and sometimes it wouldn't. Actually, the lighting of the scene doesn't seem to be the factor that makes it overexpose. It is inconsistent in even lighting, bright sunshine, mixed lighting. That is why I wondered if the was something wrong with my camera. But Mint said there wasn't anything wrong. I used aperture priority and I used manual and it doesn't matter. After capturing hundreds of photos, I can definitely say that the camera is inconsistent and frustrating. Thanks again for your comment.

@@thephotographytoolkit Do you have any experience with former Mint cameras?

@@fpeter01 No, I do not have any experience with former or other current Mint cameras. After my experience with the Instaflex TL70 Plus and the denial and gaslighting from Mint when I talked with them, I don't think I would spend the money on another one of their cameras. Like I said, they are not cheap and I expect better.

I do love my full frame cameras - especially for portraits!

Thanks for the supportive comment. I hope that you enjoy using your camera and I really hope it works for you. Let me know how it goes. I feel like Mint just didn't want to admit that there was a problem. I wish they would be more forthcoming about flaws because when I know what situations cause problems, I can deal with it.

Happy it was helpful.

I haven't tried the 600mm f6.3 yet. Have you seen the Z 600mm f4 with built in 1.4x teleconverter? Now that is a beast!

I am happy it was helpful. It took a while to figure out so I thought someone else might be having the same issue.

Thanks for sharing!

Thanks so much! I'm glad all the work I put into it was worth it.

No need to apologize! One thing to think about is that there are different crop sensor cameras. Most of the time when someone is referring to a 'crop sensor" camera, they are talking about a camera that has an APSC size sensor (25.11mm x 16.7mm). But some camera sensors (like some Canon sensors) are smaller (22.3mm x 14.9mm) and give a different crop factor (in Canon's case 1.6x). But generally when people talk about cropped or APSC sensors the crop factor is 1.5 times. So a 35mm lens on a APSC camera will give you the equivalent focal length of a 53mm lens (35 x 1.5 = 52.5mm). If you want to get the equivalent focal length of a 35mm lens on full frame then go for a 24mm lens on your APSC camera (35mm ÷ 1.5 = 23.3mm) I hope that helps.

⁠thanks for your reply and help. That's what I thought...lots of conflicting info out there 😂 Thanks again

@@chrisjones6439 Happy to help!

The focal length of an APSC lens will need to be multiplied by 1.5 to give you the full frame equivalent focal length. A common APSC lens that is sold with starter APSC cameras is an 18-55mm. To get the full frame equivalent focal length, multiply by 1.5 which gives you a 27- 82.5mm lens. So an APSC 24mm lens will give you an equivalent FOV as a 36mm lens on a full frame sensor.

@thephotographytoolkit Ah I see, regardless of lenses build for APSC we still won't get the same FOV as the full frame lens on full frame body. Also if I have for example 30 mm F1.4 APSC lens used on APSC body, can I fully take advantage the F1.4 or it still get multiplied by the crop factor? Thank you for the respond!

@@rizkywarouw The exposure will be the same as if it were on a FF camera but the aperture will be equivalent to F2.1 so it will look like a F2.1 45mm lens on a FF camera.

@@thephotographytoolkit thank you for the quick respond! Got it very clear, I thought apsc lens will act the same way as full frame lens in terms of focal lenght and aperture (no crop needed). I guess considering full frame body for moving into pro scene is needed😅

@@rizkywarouw If you are looking to capture portraits, I would definitely use a full frame camera.

To be honest, you will probably get better results with your phone for landscape photography. The sensor in the Mini Evo isn't huge.

Thanks for the comment. It is good to hear that someone else is also having similar issues with overexposure. I only have one other camera that uses the Instax Square film - the Instax SQ6 and I haven't had any problems with overexposure with that camera. Like you, I have captured some beautiful images with the camera. I also definitely like to embrace the quirks of any camera and it is hard when those quirks are inconsistent in any types of light. But I should probably just accept it and know that sometimes I won't get the image. Thanks again!

Yes - any photos that you have captured that you want to transfer to your phone need to be printed first. This is definitely a limitation of the camera. There are 2 work arounds. 1. Put a micro SD card in the camera and use that to transfer the images to your phone via computer (a pain and not super fast but it works) 2. Trick the camera into thinking you have printed the picture. (also a pain because you have to finish the film and it isn't quick) Matejphoto explains the process: ua-cam.com/video/442TCPqfTA0/v-deo.htmlsi=sKYMjNefl6yOwn-n&t=114 I tend to use the first method as it is pretty easy.

😂😂 IKR?!

Thanks for the sharing. Fair points about the sounds. I have done a test of the Nikon F, F2, F3, F4, F5 and F5 with film which definitely makes a difference. I love the F100!

No calibration needed. I use it all the time with the Z9 and it is fantastic. It is amazing for field sports because I can flip the teleconverter and go from 180 to 560. I have also used it inside for basketball to photograph the other end of the court. I don't engage the teleconverter but love the 180-400mm at F4.

Fair enough. I don't think it is meant to be a higher end camera. At least it keeps the weight down.

Thanks for the question. Just a clarification - when you say "protect", what do you mean? protect it from what? I do have a neoprene cover for the whole lens including the cover that gives it some protection from the different elements.