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@myreviews4905 not sure what you are asking

@@shuggakaine9257 Can you put in a Milwaukee Tool battery in a Harbor Freight tool?12V Milwaukee to 12V Harbor Freight.

@@myreviews4905 i think they are physically different..

@@shuggakaine9257 ok thanks

@@trinidadaguirre2757 you have to figure out the resistance of the battery.

+25 is in the video lol

Yes, that's probably it. It's a common problem on this Generation Camrys

I think all Ravs after 09 Suffer from this Clicking Steering Column Symptom. Its most likely like you said the gear or the PWS Motor. Its a pain to replace , something i have yet to tackle. Do you have a Video of the Fix? It would be helpful.. Thank you

Correct, you don't need the Volt39 if you are keeping the mirror. Yes, the image will degrade with two displays. I dont think the rear camera res. is anywhere 720p, more like 480p. To me there is not reason to keep it, to be honest it was hard for my eyes to adjust to such a small image while reversing, but im also a 50yr old man....lol

Thanks for the reply. You’re not alone - 47 years here. Just started using reading glasses. 😖 Ok, so another thought… I usually don’t like aftermarket stuff unless it’s really good quality or designed very well. Do you know of a replacement camera that can use the same wiring and location as the OEM camera? Are there downsides to this? (Off center). Do you think it’s better to rewire a new camera to a different location? Thanks again. 👍🏻

@@axelwilner most replacement cameras use the RCA route. The OEM Toyota uses a plug. at that point i would just remove the oem stuff and go All Aftermarket. run a new trigger, ground, 12v and RCA to the aftermarket camera. Kenwood makes a really nice one but its pricy... I wouldn't overthink it. I only use it to reverse and not hit a wall or something...

there is two greens. 10- light green Door trigger 13 - Dark Green Camera Ground. 10 - you do not need to connect. i never tested it but it think it stops the camera from working when the rear door opens. 13 - YES it must be connected. it is the GROUND for the camera... 14 is Positive 13 is Negative

Impossible scenario. The top of the boss where the injector sits does not change. No material is being removed from the top.

Correct. It is a tight fit, but manageable.

@@shuggakaine9257 Thanks for your reply! How long did this job take you? So, from your description I guess you used a small 8mm wrench to get those bottom screws off from the bracket. Would this be correct?

@@Glenn_123 about 1 -1/2 hours

i switched back to BP-10s and used these Shims... Noise is gone.. With the BP-20 the noise was Significantly reduced to where it would only come back when i did a hard stop..

Could be many things, however its possible this fixes your issues.

correct

Or would it be better to just run new wires from the head unit to the back camera and tap into the reverse lights?

For that exact same reason is why you need the Volt39. If you keep the OEM mirror with Cam, all you have to do is split the Signal to an RCA. you will have Both mirror and Head unit show the image. you still need your trigger for the head unit. If you complete remove the mirror you need the Volt39. OEM uses different voltage than Aftermarket 6v vs 12v.

@@robertbiddy5049 you cant, OEM uses different voltage...How are you going to power up the 6v camera? If you are gonna run new wires just go all After market and call it a day

@@shuggakaine9257 The end result was to eventually switch to an aftermarket camera anyway after disconnecting the mirror and making sure everything functions properly. The goal was to tap into the mirror wiring so that I wouldn't have to run the wiring all the way to the back. Since I eventually will upgrade my girl's rav4 rear view camera and change the location of it. In my situation I think It would be better to just run new wiring and tap into the reverse lights as the trigger. Thank you, I appreciate the advice.

The way described in the video is to use the wire harness at the mirror, No running wires just RCA signal to aftermarket head unit. Everything you need is there. This is to integrate the OEM system into the aftermarket head unit. Sorry but I don't understand why you need to reinvent the wheel if Camera and wire is already there, unless you are installing a 4k rear camera or repositioning it to where you see more than what you need to. Sound like you plan to change it in the future to all aftermarket, in that case i would just wait till then, I wouldn't go thru the trouble now just to re do it later. I have 4 rav4s, two have OEM with aftermarket and the other I ran wires and put Cameras because they didn't have it from factory. I prefer the OEM integration. @@robertbiddy5049

12mm

it was $21 on Amazon... Just click on the Description link

@@shuggakaine9257 Going to tackle this Sat my hinge broke in half.Thanks for the video.

if you have any questions, just ask away..Good luck@@Bugsy0333

I just replaced it, didnt want to deal with the headache of happening again down the line.

Thank you brotha, still perfecting the art of making videos, Its not easy holding the camera, editing, trying to get all important points/ideas in. ETC.....

I have had a Limited, Base and Sport. Both the Base and limited are very easy on the steering at high speeds, the Sport feels a little heavier not so Squirley... at normal speeds its not a noticeable difference.

@@shuggakaine9257 My 07 Rav4 Sport has the 89650-42040 LHD steering ecu. I wonder if changing to the L-SP ecu fixes the squirley driving I have at highway speed. Also I can confirmed that 06-12 Rav4 steering ecu is interchangeable.

@@oakland510kid i think you will need a 06 to 08 L-HD ecu in 09 they changed the plugs..

@@shuggakaine9257 I just changed from the 07 L-HD to 2012 L-SP steering ecu on my 07 Rav4. The steering feel is definitely heavier/firmer at high speed and the car is less twitchy.

@@oakland510kid Nice, so the 2012 was a straight swap? i had bought a 08 for my 2011 and had to return it since the Plug Harness was different.. Interesting... im glad it worked out for you....

Mine started Gradually..Its a common problem on this Camry Gen. I tried spraying mine as well however the amount of force that travels to the hinge when you close it, can damage the hood and mount locations. You dont realize it till you pull the hinge out and see how Frozen it is, literally no movement at all. the weight of the hood and leverage will force it to move however as i stated it will damage the hood and mounting points.

I did same way by spray WD40.right now it's ok.

....a pretty weak design...the upper part bends easily...with a little care it can be bent back to original shape. Yes use spray lube!

what kind of clicking? is the Alt new or rebuilt. Ive had a couple of rebuilt ones that clicked, sounded like the fan blades were hitting. After a few miles it went away. just bad Workmanship on the rebuilder. I would check the voltage at the alt and make sure it charging properly.

@@shuggakaine9257 At first i though it was the tensioner making the noise but it disappeared after about less than a minute . the alternator is rebuilt and is putting out 14.18 volts. i have to try again after setting overnight and driving the vehicle the day before. while driving the day before and stopping and restarting the noise was no long there.

10K OHM is what i used. if you take a reading you will see its not perfectly matched to the Batt. However it works. I tried 1/4 - to 2watt. only the 1/4 worked..

How do you measure resistance?

has to be removed if you want to refurbish it or replace it. The Rivet joint is what Freezes. You can try to throw heat and Lub to loosen it. But can not be done while on the car.

Hey Steve, I'm not familiar with the Makita batt resistance. But you need to get a reading of both the radio and the batt. the batt resistance must match the radio. if not then a resistor is needed. this is usually the third pin on the Dewalt.

I refloated the motherboard and it did go away. However when its really cold, the screen goes blank.

Not really. Taking the fender would add another 30mins or so to each side. The reason i don't like removing parts, especially right off the assembly line is that lining up the bodylines afterwards is a PITA. with only the top fasteners removed the fender magically likes to go back into place afterwards.

yes

yes, you can test the hinges prior to removing them to test if its frozen. remove the 2 bolts from the hood side and try to lower the hinge. It will be almost impossible to move if it frozen.

Amazon or Ebay

yeah, its plug and play with the OEM camera

Where can I buy it

Lmaooooo I was thinking the same exact thing

Stock exhaust

Hi Jake, mine is working great. No issues. Did you use the 1/4Watt 10ohm resistor?

@@shuggakaine9257 yeah i did

I have the same pack of resistors as you do.

@@Chevyblazer88 Mine has been working fine for the past couple months, i use it without any overheating.. i use it constant for about 5mins then put it down, and so on.. How long do you keep it running? Perhaps i can do the same and see if my motor stops..

I didn’t even get to actually use it I was just playing around with it to see that it worked. It probably only had 2 minutes of run time together and maybe 20 seconds of continuous.

Rod Millen, it's currently in another car in Seattle

Im not sure, i havent opened up a 20v tool, nor tested the resistance on the Battery pack.

I sold it 6 years ago... lol

Haaaa what idiot bought it? Guess there is a fool born everyday

How much you whiling to pay?

@@shuggakaine9257 where you get the kit?

@@travisstamp7428 I bought a GS400 Rodmillen car in Queens NY. It was beat up, had to sale most of the parts. I kept the SC and drivetrain.