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Joe Engineer
United States
Приєднався 29 тра 2019
Easy Porsche 911 DIY Videos & Blog Articles
Air-Cooled Porsche 911 Bolt In Roll Bar Installation
Porsche 911 DIY Repair Blog: joe-engineer.com/
Pros and cons of installing a common bolt-in rollbar in an air-cooled Porsche 911.
Additional Notes:
1. My style of rollbar is made by this supplier: www.autopowerindustries.com/index.html
2. VHT Rollbar Paint Satin Black: amzn.to/3TVr7NS
3. Magnetic Parts Dish: amzn.to/4aK7rTQ
4. Please take all necessary safety precautions. Not responsible for any personal injury or vehicle damage.
If you would like to support the channel, please click this Amazon link and do whatever normal shopping you were going to do anyway: amzn.to/3yLlOGJ
IG: joe_engineer
Pros and cons of installing a common bolt-in rollbar in an air-cooled Porsche 911.
Additional Notes:
1. My style of rollbar is made by this supplier: www.autopowerindustries.com/index.html
2. VHT Rollbar Paint Satin Black: amzn.to/3TVr7NS
3. Magnetic Parts Dish: amzn.to/4aK7rTQ
4. Please take all necessary safety precautions. Not responsible for any personal injury or vehicle damage.
If you would like to support the channel, please click this Amazon link and do whatever normal shopping you were going to do anyway: amzn.to/3yLlOGJ
IG: joe_engineer
Переглядів: 477
Відео
How To Add A Fuse To The Dash Lighting Circuit On A Porsche 911
Переглядів 8407 місяців тому
Porsche 911 DIY Repair Blog: joe-engineer.com/ Easy way to add a fuse to the circuit that controls the dash and gauges lighting on an air-cooled Porsche 911. Protects your dash wiring and dash switch. Additional Notes: 1. 78-83 911 Bentley Manual: amzn.to/425GwP3 2. 84-89 911 Bentley Manual: amzn.to/427VmVj 3. Link to the fuse I bought: carmagic.us/fuse.html 4. Electrical Contact Cleaner: amzn....
Air-Cooled Porsche 911 LED Bulb Upgrade For Dash Gauges
Переглядів 2,3 тис.7 місяців тому
Porsche 911 DIY Repair Blog: joe-engineer.com/ Easy way to swap out your incandescent dash gauge bulbs with brighter LEDs. Additional Notes: 1. Link to these LED bulbs: carmagic.us/instrument-911.html 2. These instructions are particular to the Car Magic bulbs. Those from other suppliers may have different bulb orientations in each gauge housing. 3. Please take all necessary safety precautions....
Air-Cooled Porsche 911 Bosch CIS Airboxes
Переглядів 1,7 тис.9 місяців тому
Porsche 911 DIY Repair Blog: joe-engineer.com/ Brief history on Bosch CIS K-Jetronic Airboxes, their issues, and aftermarket versions. Additional Notes: 1. This video only covers NA airboxes, not Turbo CIS ones. 2. Similar article on my blog covering CIS airboxes: joe-engineer.com/cis-improvements/ 3. How I rebuilt my aluminum airbox: joe-engineer.com/911-aluminum-cis-airbox-rebuild/ If you wou...
How To Adjust Closed Loop Fuel Mixture for Porsche 911 Bosch CIS K-Jetronic Fuel Injection
Переглядів 1,3 тис.Рік тому
Porsche 911 DIY Repair Blog: joe-engineer.com/ Tips on how to adjust the fuel mixture on air-cooled Porsche 911s running Bosch CIS K-Jetronic Fuel Injection with Lambda. This is the complete adjustment for 1980-1983 cars. Additional Notes: 1. Applicable for Bosch CIS K-Jetronic cars 1973-1983. 2. Note: I am focusing on NA cars but 930 Turbo and early 965 Turbo cars running CIS also apply. 3. Be...
How To Adjust Open Loop Fuel Mixture for Porsche 911 Bosch CIS K-Jetronic Fuel Injection
Переглядів 3,8 тис.Рік тому
Porsche 911 DIY Repair Blog: joe-engineer.com/ Tips on how to adjust the fuel mixture on air-cooled Porsche 911s running Bosch CIS K-Jetronic Fuel Injection. This is the complete adjustment for 1979 and earlier cars. Additional Notes: 1. Applicable for Bosch CIS K-Jetronic cars 1973-1983. 2. Note: I am focusing on NA cars but 930 Turbo and early 965 Turbo cars running CIS also apply. 3. Bentley...
Air-Cooled Porsche 911 Factory Tool Kit Overview
Переглядів 1,3 тис.Рік тому
Porsche 911 DIY Repair Blog: joe-engineer.com/ Brief show & tell on the factory tool kits that came with all air-cooled Porsche 911 cars. In particular we will be going over the contents of the G-body tool kits (1974-1989). Additional Notes: 1. UPDATE: I described the runner diameters incorrectly in the video. The correct diameters are: 1973.5 (30mm) 1974-1977 (34mm) 1978-1979 US and 1978-1983 ...
How To Setup Initial Fuel Mixture for Porsche 911 Bosch CIS K-Jetronic Fuel Injection
Переглядів 5 тис.Рік тому
Porsche 911 DIY Repair Blog: joe-engineer.com/ Step by step process on how to setup the initial fuel mixture on air-cooled Porsche 911s running Bosch CIS K-Jetronic Fuel Injection. This is the initial setup to get the engine to start after a major service. Additional Notes: 1. Applicable for Bosch CIS K-Jetronic cars 1973-1983. 2. Note: I am focusing on NA cars but 930 Turbo and early 965 Turbo...
How To Test Fuel Pressures for Porsche 911 Bosch CIS K-Jetronic Fuel Injection
Переглядів 7 тис.Рік тому
Porsche 911 DIY Repair Blog: joe-engineer.com/ Step by step process on how to perform the fuel pressure tests on air-cooled Porsche 911s running Bosch CIS K-Jetronic Fuel Injection. Additional Notes: 1. Applicable for Bosch CIS K-Jetronic cars 1973-1983. 2. Note: I am focusing on NA cars but 930 Turbo and early 965 Turbo cars running CIS also apply. 3. S&G Tools 33800 Test Gauge Set: www.tooldi...
How To Perform Smoke Test On Porsche 911 To Check For Vacuum Leaks
Переглядів 4,8 тис.Рік тому
Porsche 911 DIY Repair Blog: joe-engineer.com/ Step by step process on how to perform a smoke test to check for vacuum leaks on an air-cooled Porsche 911 engine. Additional Notes: 1. Applicable for all years of air-cooled 911s but especially important for Bosch CIS K-Jetronic cars 1973-1983. 2. Mineral oil: amzn.to/3Uhrz8W 3. Smoke tester similar to mine: amzn.to/3UhugqP 4. Multimeter: amzn.to/...
Corner Exit Autocross Challenge: First Time In My 1983 Porsche 911
Переглядів 455Рік тому
Porsche 911 DIY Repair Blog: joe-engineer.com/ First autocross ever in my 1983 Porsche 911SC. Not fast by any means but it was fun to see my times drop with each run. If you would like to support the channel, please click this Amazon link and do whatever normal shopping you were going to do anyway: amzn.to/3yLlOGJ IG: joe_engineer
How To Fix Air-Cooled Porsche 911 Engine Decklid Rattles
Переглядів 561Рік тому
Porsche 911 DIY Repair Blog: joe-engineer.com/ Quick tip on how to remove most of the rattling out of old air-cooled Porsche 911s. Replace those little forgotten rubber bumpers and improve your NVH! P/N 99970314041 or 9P1823499 I would try to find the OE ones but in a pinch here are some from Amazon: amzn.to/402MajM If you would like to support the channel, please click this Amazon link and do ...
PECLA Morning Shift 12/18/22 at Porsche Experience Center Los Angeles
Переглядів 430Рік тому
Porsche 911 DIY Repair Blog: joe-engineer.com/ Monthly P-car gathering at the Porsche Experience Center held December 18, 2022 in Carson, CA. This month had an off-road flavor featuring the 911 Dakar. If you would like to support the channel, please click this Amazon link and do whatever normal shopping you were going to do anyway: amzn.to/3yLlOGJ IG: joe_engineer
Air-cooled Porsche 911 Bosch Starter Motor Rebuild Part 1 of 2: Removal, Disassembly, & Inspection
Переглядів 3,6 тис.Рік тому
Air-cooled Porsche 911 Bosch Starter Motor Rebuild Part 1 of 2: Removal, Disassembly, & Inspection
Air-cooled Porsche 911 Bosch Starter Motor Rebuild P2 of 2: Reassembly, Bench Test, and Installation
Переглядів 1,8 тис.Рік тому
Air-cooled Porsche 911 Bosch Starter Motor Rebuild P2 of 2: Reassembly, Bench Test, and Installation
SevenStock 24 Mazda Rotary Gathering on 11/5/22 at Auto Club Speedway
Переглядів 691Рік тому
SevenStock 24 Mazda Rotary Gathering on 11/5/22 at Auto Club Speedway
Luftgekuhlt 8 Air-Cooled Porsche Gathering on 10/9/22 in San Pedro, CA
Переглядів 1,5 тис.Рік тому
Luftgekuhlt 8 Air-Cooled Porsche Gathering on 10/9/22 in San Pedro, CA
Air-Cooled Porsche 911 Bosch Starter Motor Bench Test
Переглядів 729Рік тому
Air-Cooled Porsche 911 Bosch Starter Motor Bench Test
Air-cooled Porsche 911 Bosch Starter Solenoid Bench Test
Переглядів 392Рік тому
Air-cooled Porsche 911 Bosch Starter Solenoid Bench Test
Air-Cooled Porsche 911 DIY Engine Oil Change
Переглядів 11 тис.2 роки тому
Air-Cooled Porsche 911 DIY Engine Oil Change
Martini Racing Dream Garage DIY Remodel: 1 Year in 20 Minutes
Переглядів 3832 роки тому
Martini Racing Dream Garage DIY Remodel: 1 Year in 20 Minutes
Tour & Review Of My 1983 Porsche 911 Project Car
Переглядів 7252 роки тому
Tour & Review Of My 1983 Porsche 911 Project Car
How To Paint Martini Racing Stripes On Garage Walls
Переглядів 2 тис.3 роки тому
How To Paint Martini Racing Stripes On Garage Walls
YouTube Intro: Joe Engineer Air-cooled Porsche 911 DIY
Переглядів 7773 роки тому
UA-cam Intro: Joe Engineer Air-cooled Porsche 911 DIY
Air-cooled Porsche 911 Power Window Regulator DIY Repair and Replacement
Переглядів 10 тис.3 роки тому
Air-cooled Porsche 911 Power Window Regulator DIY Repair and Replacement
Help Me Plan My Home Garage Porsche 911 Shop Space
Переглядів 3333 роки тому
Help Me Plan My Home Garage Porsche 911 Shop Space
Air-cooled Porsche 911 Door Stay DIY Repair
Переглядів 9 тис.3 роки тому
Air-cooled Porsche 911 Door Stay DIY Repair
Air-cooled Porsche 911SC 3.0L 1st Startup & Engine Break-In
Переглядів 2,2 тис.3 роки тому
Air-cooled Porsche 911SC 3.0L 1st Startup & Engine Break-In
Air-cooled Porsche 911SC 3.0L Flat Six Engine Vacuum Lines Setup
Переглядів 4,6 тис.3 роки тому
Air-cooled Porsche 911SC 3.0L Flat Six Engine Vacuum Lines Setup
Need your advice. My turn signal switch is shot I think when I put my turn signal on With my headlights on the headlights go On and off- Any advice on how to change the turn signal switch? I ordered it already form az?
Say no more: joe-engineer.com/diy-how-to-replace-the-turn-signal-switch-on-a-classic-air-cooled-porsche-911/
@@JoeEngineer thanks!
All the years of watching utube videos on fixing my cars, your the best instructor. The oil cap off was something I didn’t know.
Will having an incorrect duty cycle, calls the engine to tub slightly under acceleration with a frequency that’s around 0.5hz?
Very possible. The main difference between closed loop and open loop performance (besides emissions improvements) is slightly more refined stop and go behavior around town.
Ok that could be it. It is a little touchy around town for sure. Also has a little jump (almost like turbo lag) around 2500 rpm
When you say "without a Lamda system" Are you referring to those unfortunate owners who have a completely deleted lamda system (like myself)? ie. Nothing there
Correct. No factory lambda, deleted or otherwise.
Thanks Joe. So I can't find ANY lamda rel wiring or the FV. And my WUR has tubing to the vacuum adv circuit. Guessing I must have the "pre lamda" ktronic. It seems like all there is to control the mixture is that screw and the WUR & cold start valve. 🙃
Might be old but… I just tried this in my 1972 2.4 T. It seemed to work but now… I can’t get into reverse gear! Did as you said, lever in the middle and left. Is there a way I can make the car work again without calling the mechanic? Hahah
Depending on how worn out the rest of the linkage stuff is it might take a few tries. Try varying the adjustment in one direction or another and see how it affects all the gears. You'll find the sweet spot.
Hey Joe, I did a pressure check and all we’re good except the cold control pressure was just a little under spec. Anyway, I have noticed a sort of galloping feel when under acceleration especially at lower rpm’s. What do you think could be the cause of this?
If your pressures are good I would proceed to reset the mixture and see how it feels.
ok will do. I still have to do the vacuum test. Once it warms up a bit it runs much better, but it can still gallop a little. It’s at a pretty slow rate. Like just a slight tug at like 1 hz as I go.
Hello, nice video! Wouldn't it be also possible to "inject" the smoke in front of the car, where the brake booster line gets to the brake booster? Maybe for ease of process it would be first also enough to just seal the inlet of the airbox (I have no pop-up valve and are most concerned about the lines, not so much the box itself). Thanks
This is possible. I would argue this might be a good way to find a vacuum leak closer to the booster. That small elbow from the booster to the hard line in the body is usually pretty stiff rubber so it may need to be replaced after disturbing it.
@@JoeEngineer Hello, so I did it "my" way and it worked quite well. It is a bit complicated to get the airbox air tight and I always had smoke coming out from there. But I found also other leaks (around injection valves and on the cap of the oil tank) so I'm happy with the procedure.
Hey Joe, Great video! I have a '82 SC that I rebuild (with help from my local mechanic). Your video helped to pinpoint what might be causing my cold start issue. However, my issue only seems to occur when my garage gets over 90℉, which is most of the summer (I live in Florida). Thus the WUR gets up to temp very quickly (10-15sec) and the cold start pressure (according to the graph) at 90℉ is about 3 bar, which does not give much engine warm up time. I usually have to step on the accelerator for a minute or two to keep it from running rough. Is there a solution for this?
Might need to send the WUR to get rebuilt/adjusted for your climate.
Hi Joe Great video! I have a 1974 and had problems with my fuel system. This video was helpful in lack of the Bentley Manaual:-) I havent tryed it yet - but will certianly do. One question: I noticed your fuel pump did make som “noise” - or am I wrong? My pump sits just in front of left rear wheel and does not make that much noise when working in good order. The problem I had was fuel line on the suction side of my pump - it was deteoriated and some debris went into the pump inlet side which caused the problem I mentioned. The sound from my pump was getting louder and when reading Wayne Dempseys book “101 projects” I just thougth that the pump should be replaced. I did replace it - but at that point it was broken. They can not run without cooling of the fuel:-) My new pump (and new fuel line) works fine now - and my fuel filter is also replaced - it recived a lot of debri from the fuel line
The noise you hear in my video is my frequency valve, unique to US 81-83 cars. It is quite a bit louder than a normal pump noise.
Tengo un Porsche 911 SC 3.0 año 1978 presenta una falla tarda para encender una vez que que está caliente acelera bien lo apago y prende sin ningun problema pero cuando lo pongo en marcha pasando unos 100 MTS empieza a falla de nuevo pierde aceleración y potencia
Honestamente yo empezaría revisando todo con una afinada desde el principio para eliminar lo obvio. Ajustar válvulas, el tiempo de ignición ,buscar fugas de vacio. Si siguen las síntomas entonces seguir con revisar las presiones de combustible y por último la mezcla de combustible.
There is nothing that click's. It is just a screw.
You might want to watch the video again. Start at 11:00. He comments on the click @ 11:44 and then again and again and...
Excellent!
Thank you for this series of videos Joe; these were invaluable. It was daunting at first, but took my time. I finished my replacement sunroof seal job on my '78 SC last night without a hitch! My wind deflector was a three-piece like yours, which appears to be original to the car. I ended up using a dry PTFE lube on the sunroof cables and motor gear; hopefully that stays pretty clean. Thanks again!
Just watched the 3 parts to this sunroof project. Excellent work & congratulations on fixing it successfully. Hope re-adding the motor covers at the end helped to quieten down the sunroof motor noise. 👍👍👍
Great Video.. I put smoke into the Dizzy Retard line into front bottom of the Throttle valve, Plugged everything as you did, No smoke up top but I get smoke under the engine very close to the oil cooler, What could this be??? I've been using a lot of your video's and web site... Thanks
Maybe one of the rubber lines between the airflow meter and the firewall. Stick a phone behind there and take a photo.
@@JoeEngineer Thanks for the reply Joe, Another question: Does smoke make its way into the crank case? I put mine back together and it runs awesome, but now I have a NASTY oil leak, when running, approx where engine and trans meet. I'm thinking main crank oil seal, flywheel seal, but wondering if it's related to my smoke underneath i never found, oddly the oil leak and smoke leak were in the same area???
Did the smoke test. Discovered my pop off valve rubber O ring is leaking. Does anyone have a source or O ring size they can share?
Happens to me too. New video incoming.
@@JoeEngineer thanks I've been searching the web on the size of that O ring. My understanding is O rings are numbered. About 6 months ago I found a post but did not bookmark I think the size as I recall was something like 372 or 376. Not sure if you know the size or a source to get those O rings.
Thank you for all your excellent and thoughtful videos(and website). I have an 83 SC as well and have to do this. On another note, my SC did not have an oxygen sensor, so I replaced that and the relay on the unit under the passenger seat, but almost seemed to run worse. I’m not running a cat, but stock muffler. Scratching my head on that. Replaced the WUR with a new one, but still doesn’t really start the way it should. Runs strong otherwise. Guess I have more work to do!
You may need to reset your mixture again so it runs right with the new O2. Check my other videos for that.
@JoeEngineer Thanks man!
add an inline fuse for the windshield wiper motor, the motor is unfused when it is goes to park, if the motor jams it can burn up the wiring. I replaced the entire dash wiring harness on a 1976 912E.
God job, Joe 🎉
Very insightful walkthrough on the oil change. Just did mine yesterday & it was a breeze on my 71T. Thank you
Did you use OEM seals or aftermarket? where did you purchase them?
Genuine Porsche parts from FCP Euro and Pelican Parts for whatever FCP didn't have.
With all due respect, the outside plate won't fit through the hole unless I grind it down and then it compromises the ability of the plates to stay in place. I tried it with similar plates and the whole mechanism just pushed through. The option then is to buy a new door and not stay with the original metal. I decided to put a plate on the inside with an eye bolt through it and use a strong nylon tie to link the door and the frame. It's a simple solution and will only annoy the purists. After all, it's a 50 year old car.
If it works it works 👍
@JoeEngineer I just picked up an 1983 911 SC Targa. Needs an oil change but when I start it to take it to "warm temperature" it smokes a bunch because of old owner pour too much oil. Any tips on how to go about it? Could I do an oil change at cold temps? Thanks in advance!
Drain a little from the tank while it's cold. Might take a few drives to clear out the oil left in the oil breather circuit.
@@JoeEngineer okay that's what I thought. Here is my other caveat... the car hasn't have its valves adjusted in a bit and I was thinking of doing the valve adjustment, maintenance + oil change at the same time. Would you say to drain a little oil. Drive it around as it is. Once we can do the oil change correctly (like your video) do everything else then? Thanks so much for your help!!
@@JoeEngineer any thoughts on above☝
A German car car has degrees Celsius instead of Fahrenheit. Greatings from Bavaria.
Is it possible to remove the sunroof leather panel without removing the whole roof? Question because I would like to have it reupholstered. Thanks
I was wearing an effing scarf one morning when I checked the level in my Targa’s oil tank and my scarf fell and I almost pulled an Isadora Duncan
Yikes 😳😳😳
@@JoeEngineer You know, I build steam engines as a hobby (I am a USCG licensed Chief Engineer) and I keep my hair back and don't wear long sleeves and this was a wakeup call.
This series of videos are great. Everything has gone smoothly, though when fully assembled the roof only retracts about 3-4" and then binds and won't go further. When I remove the front bolts/guide brackets and provide a bit of upward force on the front of the roof while retracting everything runs smoothly. However when I reassemble everything, and try again it binds. So I'm thinking something is causing the roof to not tilt as much as needed to fully retract. Any ideas?
Off the top of my head, the front of the cables have little pivots on them, make sure they rotate smoothly, the tracks need to be parallel so the sunroof doesn't bind in them, and make sure the little headliner piece isn't hanging up in the cavity the sunroof retracts into.
Thanks for the great video... helped me get started with the repair. Quick questions... how's the JB Weld repair on the cable holding up? I've got a similar issue where the cable and slider are in good condition, and I think things just seized/broke due to grease becoming quite sticky. $3 of JB sounds much better than $250-500 of new cables! Along these lines... what do you recommend for lubrication of the slides? Do you lubricate the cable as well?
JB repair hold up with no issues several years later, and I open the sunroof year round. You are supposed to install them dry as the fuzzy part of the cable allows it to slide in the track. I polished out any nicks or edges, waxed the tracks with car wax, and redid my seals to keep the channels dry. If you goop them up with some kind of lube it could stain your headliner. So far so good.
@@JoeEngineer Thanks for the quick reply. I'll have to try to polish/wax. I have an 1984 Carrera and my rails are a bit different and the cable doesn't have the felt. Nonetheless, I agree the wax should pickup less dust/dirt/grime than grease.
Question: When you push the headlight washer switch on the dash, does the headlight pump only activate for a second or so? In other words, on my system, (1985), keeping my headlight washer switch depressed doesn't continuously activate the motor. It only pumps for a second. Then you need to push it again (or more times) to get water to come out the nozzles again. Is that normal? If that is the normal operation, then I think its because of the headlight washer relay.....If you depress and hold your headlight washer switch on the dash (while lights are on), does your pump continuously pump, or does it cutoff, and you have to push it again?
Hi Jose, all the tuning applies while the engine is warm?
Correct! Open and closed loop. The only one you can do while cold is setting the initial mixture to just get the injectors to spray enough to start the engine (earlier video).
Correct on the arguments of this thing. That’s a rabbit hole. They all seem to work the same way, except placement of vacuum fuel enrichment. Between the earlier ones and the 81 to 83
So the mixtrue screw only adjusts the flapper height up or down? Thanks for the video.
It adjusts the position of the piston inside the fuel distributor at idle, and therefore the idle fuel mixture.
@JoeEngineer thanks Joe. I followed all the steps you outlined on my 1982 911 SC. The 3mm allen appeared to be stuck as I cannot turn it. Probably hasn't been moved in years. I can smooth out the idle and eliminate the backfire by slightly lifting the plunger so by smell and the idle, it seems lean. I'll hit it with a bit of penitrating oil and let it sit overnight.
Joe thank you for all your videos. I have been on the identical journey with a 78 911sc I bought 4 years ago. your videos have been a huge help. Cheers from Canada.
WoW. I cannot see nothing negative about your whole video thank you this is how it's supposed to be thank you again man
Great video, where did you get the shop wiring diagram? Having issues with my power mirrors so those diagrams would come in handy. Thank you
If you Google around you can find the entire workshop manual and wiring diagrams. Can't link it here for obvious reasons.
Thanks a lot for this really useful video. Cheers from south of Paris (France).
lol, Unbolting the oil nut under the engine - I've done the exact same thing, trying to move my hand away quickly. good video - and honest. I let the nut drop straight in the pan and retrieve it later.
Thanks Joe. First video I have seen from you and that's a nice explanation. My car is a 1977 2,7 CIS and I seem to be having the same problems with a surging idol but only during the warm up cycle. During the first start up I get surging and the revs are really bouncing up and down until the car is up to temp. After that, the revs sit at a solid 950. This problem is really annoying and something that i have lived with for a few years, since I did the rebuild. Now, it needs to get sorted out. I think it is far too rich during the warm up cycle and it's like it's not getting enough air, but I am struggling to locate the issue. The Engine loom is new, the WUR & Fuel Distributer was rebuilt. The Thermo valve is new, the AAR is working correctly. All components in the system have power when the engine is running and seem to be functioning correctly. My fuel pressures are in spec etc etc. It's a real head scratcher but i will be using your videos as a guide to cross the t's and dot the i's! Thanks for positing.
If these are the carrera type pressure fed tensioners would you need to prime them like you do here. I thought the pressure fed tensioners don't need to be primed and you can just install them after you finish timing the cams.
They are the hydraulic tensioners and they should be primed.
i dont understand why you use the Netley as reference but you actually don't use their instructions... the way you do it seems like you are not really resetting it no?
So my car has a pretty significant amount of idle surge. I'm going to smoke test it this weekend, but looking ahead here, how do you set the idle at 900 for this test when it's surging from like 1400 down to 500 back to 1400? If it's rocketing back and forth pretty quickly, I'm not sure how you're supposed to dial that in.
Generally if it's surging it's on the richer side and if it's popping and backfiring it's on the lean side. But I would fix all vacuum leaks before messing with the mixture.
To follow up on this, there was a vacuum leak at the manifold. The shop I sent it to didn’t bother to smoke test it when they set it up, so when I got it, they had set it to run REALLY rich. I found the leak and had them fix it and I’ve been working on correcting the mixture the past hour. I verified it was running rich (not that the copious amount of black smoke and surge didn’t tell me that) with the test by pulling and pushing on the plate flap. Idle cleaned up when pulling it down. So I let it warm up and tried to back the idle down. Got it down to where it was surging between like 800-1200 and started leaning it out. As I leaned it (which took a few clicks), the idle came up to like 1200. Dialed the idle back down a bit and the surging came back. Tested it, idle improved leaning it again. Gave it two more clicks and it cleaned up again, but idle went back up to like 1300. Repeated the process again. At this point, the idle is pretty good, but is sitting at around 1100. No more surging, no backfires, etc. I think that if I did it again, I might be able to get it to idle down to where it should be, but I’m not doing anymore tonight. Point is, that’s how badly the shop has the thing set up. It ran and drove, but it was so unbelievably rich that they had the idle screw really turned way past where it should be and the mixture screw at least one full turn to rich. At least. It’s no wonder the gas mileage was atrocious.
Joe - Excellent tutorial on removal, repair and reassembly, of the sunroof. well done!!! I have a 73, steps and parts are the identical. Slight difference with the motor but works the same. Have passed on your page to a few 911 friends. 👍
So this doesn't test the oil breather lines or the brake booster line. Is it worth testing those by connecting the tester in those directions as well?
I would say the booster line is worth testing since it runs all the way to the front and is safety critical. The oil breather lines are cheap and easy enough to just replace if you suspect they are getting old and cracked.
Thanks. Your videos are absolutely fantastic, btw. My car just underwent a top end and CIS rebuild. The shop did ok with those, but they weren't very thorough with the last process. They got the car running -- it starts ok, but not immediately every time. And on cold starts, it idles at around 2k and is perfectly content to sit there. But when it warms up and the idle settles, I get a pretty significant amount of idle surge. Like it will oscillate between like 400 and 1400 RPM. You basically have to stay a little in the gas when standing at a traffic light in order to smooth it out. I suspect a vacuum leak, which is why I'm starting there. But the car is definitely running inefficiently. I'm getting about 10MPG, which in a way seems like it's running rich. Not sure...have a lot of tests to run here to try and isolate it.@@JoeEngineer
I have a 911SC 81´. Excelent video! Please more videos like this!! thank you very much!
$$$ to replace with original pieces.
Spot on!
Great video! I see you have 2 washers before you mount the brush plate. I'm missing the insulating washer. Do you know a source where I can find it?
This was amazing! Thank you for all the detail and video... (would you remember what temperature did you set your soldering iron to unsolder the solenoid? I hate to scorch it... ) but truly thank you!
Don't remember unfortunately. You could try setting the temp low and turn it up gradually until it just melts.
Thank you for creating this video
Does anyone here know where the "3rd" bk/blue wire on terminal 58a ultimately goes? In this video it goes to a white connector and on up - but where it goes is not viewable. My car has this short wire with the connector, but it is hanging loose not connected to anything. I could not find any other unattached wire in the area - with the opposite terminal connector or without. Before I put everything back together it would be nice to know if I need to find the other side or if my car may just not have had that circuit. BTW, getting the switch out may not always be easy. As the video mentions, it is sometimes a problem getting the knob off of the switch. It can also be really hard to loosen the plastic retaining "nut" underneath the switch knob. This part is the black plastic piece that holds the switch in the dash. I tried several different tools and finally had to knock it loose with a hammer and a punch. Luckily it didn't break. Also my car is a Euro targa with a locking frunk. There is an apparently immovable metal plate right underneath the light switch that makes it tough to get a grip on the switch from the backside. If you keep after it, you can find a way to drop the switch. There is just enough room. Hope this helps.