Відео

Exactly. This far back it has an oil bath air cleaner too, and breaker point ignition. It was really a different world. Today, just the clutch is a mystery to a lot of people.

@@tecmotiondyno yeah a clutch is a mystery lol. As a kid I was the one who used to adjust the clutch on our tow truck. It’s crazy how most of the world is so dumbed down yet they want to tell me how something works 🤣

@TracyGunz Glad to hear it helped. I almost didn’t post this video because using a bolt to install the balancer is not really the preferred method, but when the special tool doesn’t fit anyway, a bolt will work. In fairness I have done lots of Ford balancers this way and if you start with a longer than stock bolt your risk to the crank threads is greatly diminished.

A lot of the individual pigtails are available and Rockauto is a pretty good source for them. As far as a comprehensive kit is concerned, I don’t know of one off hand. The fuel injector connectors are some of the most critical and most often broken, even though they aren’t the style of connectors depicted in this video.

Wiring is one of the worst parts of these jobs. I spent two weeks going through harnesses for “Bad Decision” but in the end it paid off because the car just fired right up!

Good luck with the job. This video may also be helpful: How to Set Up Hydraulic Valvetrain on a 5.0 Ford ua-cam.com/video/mJmTTntdMvA/v-deo.html

You don’t have to be careless to break an injector connector, that’s for sure!

I'm not sure that is actually true. I'm pretty sure that I have run KOER tests on a car with codes in the KOEO test. I might set one up and try it to double check though. Of course, if you chip tune the car you can delete all that stuff and mark it "not present" in the software so you will not get a code for it, which would help if it turns out to be the case that you can't run KOER without a clean pass on the KOEO.

​​​@@tecmotiondyno Just ran it an hour ago. Codes 64 ACT 82 Smog pump 85 purge canistr 87 fuel pump cycle This one is stock '90 wiring and A9L and all, no cats but yes O2, in a street rod. Ran perfect 18,000 miles til last Tuesday. Thanks. Look at book section 2-5.3 #6 on page 2-11 top.

@@hotrodray6802 the main thing there that could really affect things is the ACT. If it thinks it’s -40*F, it will definitely affect the way it runs. You’ve definitely given me something to double check though.

​@@tecmotiondyno I will change ACT asap. Thanks, I was surprised and pleased for your prompt feedback. 👍😎 Might be Tuesday until I get it changed.

@hotrodray6802 There are some tests that can be done to check whether the problem is the sensor or the harness or PCM. I'm sure you can look them up on the internet. I would do the tests first before just replacing the part, but it looks like there is a problem with that system for sure.

@@nissanbrown6144 2.73 was the standard ratio in the 8.8 in the Foxbody Mustang. 3.08 was the optional ratio. 2.73 was also used in the 7.5 rear ends.

In the Mark VII, the 8.8 had 3.27's, and those cars had an AOD. In the Mustang, as I said, the standard ratio was 2.73 and the optional ratio was 3.08. The optional ratio could be ordered with the 5 speed or the AOD. No Foxbody was shipped with a shorter final drive than 3.08, even the 93 SVT Cobra. The vast majority of the Foxbody cars did not get the optional ratio either. In later years Ford shipped 8.8 equipped Mustangs with gear ratios as low as 3.73.

@@tecmotiondyno i no mark had 8.8 86 in up. 327s 84 through 85 273.7.5 rear end.

Generally, placing the filter in the inner fender is the best approach for these cars. If the filter is under the hood you are going to suck hot air even with a heat shield other than a box that seals it to the inner fender. With big tubing the impact of the bends is minimized. In this case, the standard Procharger setup is to place the filter right over the driver's side headers, which is a terrible idea, so having the inlet in the passenger inner fender makes the most sense. The real issue with MAF placement is to try to get it in a straight section of pipe away from sources of turbulence. The Slot MAF has a reputation for being more stable than either the fox or SN95 style MAFs, and that is especially helpful in a blow through scenario like this. These guys put a meth nozzle in the straight section of pipe under the hood which precluded placement of the MAF there, but it is better protected and a lot more accessible if you put it between the inner fender and the throttle in a straight piece of pipe. Neither position will make any difference to power.

@@heffytomad4741 I’m not sure what you are talking about here. This video shows a new, revised wiring pigtail being spliced into the harness using a solder seal which is a specialized connector that combines a soldered connection with heat shrink tubing in an easy to use package. This procedure results in the most reliable connection possible for this type of job.

No...new pins are the only way it should be done. It's not a "specialized" any thing. It's just a butt connector. It should be re- pined no splicing

I must have a speech impediment, or you just have MATH on the brain James! :)

Yes, you definitely have to. This particular car uses the pro-m EFI system which is an aftermarket system that uses MAF. The BA5000 in the 3” pro tube is very similar to the 60# calibrated 3” pro tube setup that it had, so the test start shown was actually on the same calibration I had for the original MAF. You would have to do a chip tune on the car to get any slot MAF setup to work if you have a factory PCM. If you have a modular car that you are converting you will still have to tune it, but most of them can be done with a flash tune. These days getting a chip tune on a Foxbody is not always easy due to availability of chips and guys who actually know how to do it.

@@tecmotiondyno Thanks for the info! Yeah I came from the LS world and have HP tuners software so picking up an old fox body is a big learning curve for me. My car has a chip in the computer and I assume the PRO-M maf was calibrated for the cam, paxton and 24 lb injectors. The car runs decent I'm just struggling getting the idle to stop hanging up. I rev it up to 3k or so and let off and it drops to 2k and hangs there for like 5 seconds and then drops down to 1k. I ordered a new IAC and going to do a base idle reset on it today. I've been dealing with coolant leaks from the thermostat housing and water pump. I've never had these kinds of issues with a car before but I'm determined! LOL I will probably just do a Holley setup if I keep the car and the engine.

These are old cars now and they do have some old car problems like leaks and brittle wiring. A hanging idle might be a gummed up iac or a tps sensor issue where the closed throttle voltage is set too high. Of course it could be something else too, like the programming.

@@tecmotiondyno Yeah I get it! I'm having so leaks and wiring problems myself with age LOL! I still need to add an AFR gauge so I can see exactly how it's running. I will be grabbing one the pods from you soon.

@Joeshomegarage Sounds good. There is a good video on the gauge install using my vent pods here, and it is helpful even if you use some other mount system: ua-cam.com/video/oLYdgQr4T2A/v-deo.htmlsi=tedoJc7F2TAE8gVy

You will need a chip tune or at least a calibrated MAF to make that combination work. Assuming you have that, it may be a heat related problem on an ignition component like the coil or TFI module.

@mattmeyers81 For whatever reason, my dyno here usually reads on the low side. To help with your comparison I looked up a similar combination to yours - gt40p heads, explorer intake, mild cam, off road exhaust - and it made 234/271 through a manual transmission on my dyno. This was one of the better results I have seen for this type of setup. An AOD car will typically show between 15 and 25 HP less at the wheels than a manual transmission car here.

@@tecmotiondyno thanks. This was my first attempt at doing any porting. I ported the lower intake and opened up the throat of the upper to match the throttle body I used. Then I port matched the heads to the intake and did a little chamber work. If I would have known I was going to convert to mass air I would have went a step up on the cam but for what it is I'm pretty happy with it. I'm installing a old powerdyne bd11a this winter keeping with this 90s build theme.

@@KWillyzz1 Maybe. It has been under construction for 10 years, and it spent 18 months at another shop. I was the first to get it to run, but it has a series of teething problems that were not compatible with my available time just at the moment - this is more of a winter project because each thing you sort out leads you to the next thing and there are parts delays and the only real way forward is to just keep working on it until it is done. If the customer and I agree to have it back for a little more extended and scheduled stay, I will probably do some more videos on it. It is a really cool car that belongs to the original owner and it is going to work with a little persistence.

I think you have it made when you have a drinking game about you!

Even though it can be a pain in the butt, I really like mine. I have it at the High River car show today as a matter of fact!

Thanks for watching. I am glad this is helping some guys out!

The heads/cam/intake combo I used is one that I like a lot. Sounds mean, works well, still really drivable. Thanks for watching!

It's a customer car so I am sorry I don't have all the answers. The PCM was up under the dash or in the kick panel somewhere. I don't just remember what combination of splitters allowed all three components to run, but it sure looks like I had them all working. I dynoed this car too later on, and I don't recall having to unplug the screen for the PC. I definitely did not unplug the dash.

It's a thrill! I think I was one of the first if not the first Foxbody guy to get one working in the car ...

@@tecmotiondyno maybe one day I’ll drive one myself.

Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!

Those button heads simplify the job so much!

@@ICT_Anton I tuned a stock ECU car with a 351W swap yesterday. It ran like garbage when it came in and it ran beautifully when it left. The chip systems that work with these cars are mostly discontinued and it is hard to get chips these days, but not impossible. As far as I know you can still buy the tweecer which is a plug in system that you can use to tune the car through a usb cable and datalog it as well. If you were somewhere near Calgary I would say bring it over and I will sort it out, and I still have a chip inventory for them.

@@e303gt in the retrofit installation shown here the original configuration had no solenoid on the starter. The original solenoid is designed to handle the starting current and in practice is generally reliable. Continuing to run the starting current through the original solenoid and triggering the new on-starter solenoid with a jumper reduces additional wiring and does not generally reduce reliability.

That happens alright. There are also two widths of those trailers so if you have a wider car like a late model Mustang you need to get the wider one to reduce the chances of damaging your wheels getting it on.

These days they are more annoying than functional since most guys keep these cars inside!

No arguing with that! The solid axle has always been stronger in a drag race situation though.

@@tecmotiondyno that's true and IRS handles better.

This particular car had the elastomer ring visibly coming out of the balancer. That is what holds the outer balance ring to the hub on a factory balancer, and when it fails, the outer ring can turn or even come right off. If it comes off, it breaks all kinds of things. If it turns, the car will start to have a vibration because it is out of balance, and since the timing marks are on the outer ring, if it turns relative to the crankshaft keyway and then you set the timing based on the marks, you will have set the timing wrong. Generally speaking these balancers with the rubber retainer ring are problematic when they get 30 years old like this, and most of the time it is a good idea to replace them with a decent aftermarket balancer like the Powerbond used here.

@@tecmotiondyno Thanks for your reply, I have a old vehicle ,it has recently began to run rough at idle , especially at traffic lights like the timing is retarded and then idle speed starts to drop. I have been told it needs a harmonic balancer. I have never experienced such symptoms before so I was unsure. I came across your video and thought I would ask. It's a historic vehicle with a carburetor and a points distributor.

100% true, and even noted in the description of this video!

Sounds like it!

The usual cause of whining is a backlash issue - usually too loose. It is possible that you got a bad measurement or settled for a top of spec backlash like .014. It could be something else like a bad gear pattern, but I would look at the backlash first. You should roll the gears over a few turns before setting up and measuring it, then you should measure it in a couple of places to be sure you are getting the same measurement. If not, you measurement setup may not be accurate.