Відео

the back and sides look ok but that top is ugly.....

They do sell a bridge removal tool. It has a big wooden ball handle, curved steel blade, and the end is like a chisel. If you can get it under a good maple or rosewwood bridge plate you can pop it off in one sharp/quick motion. I admire your patience with the plane.

Looks awesome! Great job!

I’m really a solid body electric guy but that is absolutely gorgeous!

Doesnt look like Brazillian rosewood tho, not that I could tell the difference ;)

I used to quit at #1800 grit

Just call me an idot please! As I now see you DO go up in sandpaper grade my bad please ignore first comment

Next time you might try taping the logo with pin striping tape they go down even finer that that logo

Yes worth saving the logo for sure. Pain in the ass? Yes but still worth it

I wonder why you don't use a very high grade of sandpaper? I see many Luthers go up as high as #1200 grade before finishing then end with a nano product like the N3 nano kit protectant?

Nice!!

Thank you.With a value that high it has to look and play as good as you can get it.Customers at those price tags will be very discerning unless it has a very special provenance. At the end of the day it's your guitar, you're making the decisions and judging by the results thus far you're doing an excellent job. Looking forward to the next episode.

It’s looking really good, the amber hue is spot on! I’m really curious now, looking forward to hear how it sounds!

It looks very nice, and a lot better than when you received it. Ignore the naysayers; it's your money, and your guitar. You weren't the one who messed it up with the first "refinishing", and I think you've sorted it out. Play it, and enjoy it, or sell it to another player rather than a pedantic collector.

I'm really excited to see how it comes out. It is looking great. Your second pronunciation of oxalic acid was correct.

Now is time to sun burst

I admire your patience trying to save the original logo however the value of the guitar doesn't warrant the time and effort you are investing. Doesn't matter how good it looks it won't be original. Neither colour nor hardware. It has a neck break and some silly cosmetic issues that you can neither remove or disclaim. That's why it ended up on the scrapheap. The hardware being sold by the previous owner to soften the blow. Your pickups may be better than the originals and the hardware as good but it's not original and not Gibson. The finished guitar may look, sound and play better than the original but it's still almost worthless. That, unfortunately is the way the market works. They cost around 1500 quid new (a lefty might be a tad more expensive) and used prices start at around 800. All original and no neck break.

I love that colour.

With martins with no trust rod, you can pull a few frets in a few places with a new ret with a wider tang which pushed the neck straight.

So you payed a tone of cast for a martin, and and you rip off the pick guard with out protecting the time? I seen some use dental floss and sawed back and forth after heating it up,

I believe the neck pickup is upside down at 16:52.

You should should sing tenor. Tenor twelve miles away

Looking great. Keep them coming.

Beautiful

amazing job again i can not wait to see and hear it at the end

Thanks again for taking the time to record and edit these videos. They are excellent entertainment and education

It’s coming out great! Looking forward to finishing the top (from video 1, when some fibers remained attached under there pick guard / I’m obsessing over it 😂). The shellac has already given a lovely amber hue! Keep going man!

I love the look of the guitar, it's hard, patient work. I have a Martín OM-28 guitar in which the last two holes of the bridge pins are a little lower in relation to the others, is this normal? The sound and tuning of the guitar seem good. Thank you.

Looks great!

Shielding is not necessary

That musta been one hell of a lap dance.

Why don't you level the frets before finishing? A lot less risk that way I would think

The walnut finish would have been a seriously classy guitar. That said, it was finished very well.

I had that exact same jumper in blue. God, I miss that. Best jumper ever. Great vid. I think Mahogany guitars should always have woodgrain visible when finished.

Monkeys are not allowed anywhere near the shed where the live grenades are stored "Humans" who suck the glass pipe should never be allowed to have anything sharper than a crayon.

Curious situation here, and maybe I didn’t see something, but I watched it three times to be sure, when you are setting the neck, you place a piece of sandpaper on the body, say 5cm worth, then you set the neck on top of it and pull the sandpaper out. In your case you started by doing this five times to each side and then you did a little more on each side until you got the “set” you wanted. Now I notice you were very careful to do this and equal number of times on each side, which tells me this is a very sensitive adjustment and even the smallest amount of sanding makes a great difference. So here’s my observation: switching our attention from side-to-side to front-to-back, when you draw the sandpaper through the joint all 5cm moves past the wood on the back of the neck but the front of the neck gets almost no sanding (I guess the very end gets cut by one grain of sand). Thus, after five pulls, the front has been sanded by five grains of sand while the back has seen twenty five centimeters of sanding paper come through. Does this uneven sanding treatment have the effect of making the neck tilt backwards ever so slightly adding to the bow or did I miss something you did to make the sanding strokes even from front-to-back?

Just saw five more parts to this .,caught last two..we'll be watching them as this guitar is a beauty....👍

Beautiful man...👍

yet another great job and video cant wait to see the next

Titebond II ??.. Why not original Titebond, it doesn't creep over time

Epoxy - 1936. Patent 1946. There times when it is fine, especially if the use is very limited, as here. Good stuff!

Hello Tom! I LOVE your content and this Martin series is truly fascinating! The fact that you also show mistakes is so fresh and enjoyable. It’s a great learning journey for me, as I also mess around with guitars (electrics so far and planning to restore an old nylon for the first time now). So keep up with the excellent work, I am truly looking forward to the next one. Ciao Dario

Great work 👍 Are you using Nitro clear?

Interesting job, only just come across this series, so will check the full story. Epoxy has been around for a good while: fibreglass boats were made certainly from the early '60s, if not before.

Great to see that you're addressing all the problems as you get to them. I think intonation above the 12th was always an issue with these guitars but let's be honest there's not usually much happening at the sticky end of a an acoustic guitar with a traditional body shape. Even Ted Woodford doesn't worry too much about this issue. It is what it is and you do what you can. Judging by the neck joint Martin were still doing everything by hand in the late 60's but that doesn't explain why the neck wasn't centralised with the bridge. I'm starting to ask myself whether it might be better and easier to just make a new bridge but you're the man up close so I expect you'll be taking a close look and weighing up your options. Using acetone on that old binding certainly scared me a lot but you've obviously done it before or you wouldn't have gone hell for leather on a vintage Martin. I'm looking forward to the next installment.

G'day Beardsworth Guitars, Thanks for a great video. I'm enjoying this series - I like seeing someone who knows what restoration means. I was particularly interested in the method you used to remove the bridge. I have an old nylon string guitar, where the strings have torn through the bridge. It's just a cheap guitar that I bought in the 80's, to get back into playing, but it should be repaired. I'll give it a try one day. If I can remove the bridge without damaging the soundboard, I'll go through the rest of the guitar, & see how it all turns out. Keep up the good work Andrew

Looking great! I’ve been hoping for this video and looking forward to the next one. You’re making the best of a pretty messed up situation, and I really appreciate patients, care and concern for the old guitar.

This isn't the first time I've seen this!

What a fantastic job you did.

That was as clean of a neck removal as I've seen while watching guitar repair videos. I'm not a luthier, but I very much enjoy watching you gentleman and ladies who are do your thing. The wood on this instrument is simply beautiful. I'm hooked to see how this project comes out!