Відео

If you're anything like me, you'll measure just fine but then get mixed up between radius and diameter between your measurements and what the software takes.

What do you think about using something like Conjure Rigid for drone parts?

i just got into warhammer and have been flying fpv for like 8 years, welcome!

is this the once in a drone side?

An M10 might, but might also not, magically solve your locking time problems. If it's too close to the VTX and the latter is too noisy, it'll crap out just as much as the M8. And then the GPS antenna size also matters, irrespective of the GPS chip. And then stuff like cloud coverage on a given day matters a lot. And then, for this kind of flying, no real need for GPS. There's a BetaFlight setting that lets you arm without/before having a lock.

can you print a basketball from it ?

Nice, Which drone are you using?

they are all fucked up lol

I ordered my monitor after watching your video yesterday. I am doing analog, so the monitor has AV input. You have the best setup on youtube.

UA-cam algorithm found you for me. I was looking around for this yesterday. And here it comes today.

-resin printing is so simple compared to fdm! @ spends 90% of vid time attempting to print anything.

Hold on, how you ask THE OWNER OF THE COMPANY and they tell you to google it? What a dick

SLA is sooooo much easier than FDM you say, yeah playing with contact sensitiser isn't my idea of fun, neither is playing with big nasty vats of poison when it doesn't quite work as expected .....

Great topic, thanks

Never tempt Murphy. He heard you when you said resin printing was so much easier. LOL I can't believe you're not using a flexible build plate, though! It's so much easier to remove prints. As far as which is better? It all depends on what you're printing. I find resin better at fine details. But it's much easier to prototype with FDM.

Thank you for letting us follow your journey.

u r just like me when taking off for the first time super cautious

i just sold all my drones a few months ago, and just dove head first into 3d printing and got fdm and resin, cant wait to get my resin printer next week

When it comes to any TPU, you have to pay very close attention to the properties of the TPU. For instance, ninjaflex is extremely flexible compared to normal TPU. The same goes for resin. You can end up with really strange versions of TPU and almost none of them are the same.

Not going with Dji was a bad move . V2s or integras or the gogs 2 are the favoured choice by most.

Victim of the one more battery. Happens to everyone. It's been fun watching your journey. Water and trees kill reception.

That power supply is too small for that charger

The gps isn't needed. But you can set up return to home in betaflight. I use walksnail and love it. Personally I think that gemfan make the best props. The vifly is the best smoke stopper.

"resin printing is easier than...", yeah, let me just quickly put on the gloves to wash everything printed, bring the toxic wastes from that cleaning to a disposal center, and cure the model with a uv lamp. so much easier than taking the piece from your flexible build plate and be done with it. don't get me wrong, resin printing is cool and all, but lets be honest about the issues.

An, you're printing drone parts... and don't have a drone to test it and show us? I must confess that this video kind of annoyed me.

try other flexible resins please

LOL in no world is resin printing easier than fdm

Was recommended this vid - hold up I know that voice and hands. Hobby crossover haha, sick man, good to see u in the fpv space also!

does this resin have a heigher print temp?

If you want incredible flexibility, I'd love to see you try Formlabs' silicone resin! Actual printing of real silicone

Bacon Ninja had a video testing some of the flexible resin for an action camera mount. Interesting stuff. I don't have any issues printing tpu on my fdm printer, but I'd like to play around with a resin printer someday.

Formlabs have a silicone variant that generates insane flex parts. Up next? Cant call it cost efficient though..

everything is fucked up

Yes I needed to make a functional window squeegee key chain and fdm wasn't up to the task and I had to give up on the project because I couldn't find a flexible resin

Your GPS needs to be flat with the sky so turning the gps around will pick up better. If it's leaning the other way and you pitch forward it's level with the sky. Otherwise great flight and spray since anti fog in your goggles.

7:15 - Rebound. That's the reason I wanted to watch this video. All of the low durometer resins I've tried are expensive and they have very slow rebound properties, very consistent with your results in this video. That would be good in some energy absorbing applications but I have a product I'm trying to migrate to additive manufacturing that needs fast rebound. I love resin printing for the excellent surface finish and much more isotropic physical properties (essentially no interlayer weakness), but I definitely would not say it's easier. I LOL'd when you made that claim. I FDM print a lot of TPU for my business. No heated bed. It prints slowly but it's an unattended process so that doesn't really matter. When a bed full of parts is finished ten hours later, I pluck them off and press the Print Again button. No scraping, no alcohol washing and rinsing, no drying, no UV post cure, no stinky carcinogenic chemicals, no rubber gloves, no sticky mess all over everything, no filtering a vat of resin with little detached chunks. 95A or 98A TPU is easy to FDM print. 30-45 mm/s for everything. Slow and steady. I use 2-3 mm of retraction. Select Avoid Crossing Perimeters in the slicer and paint a layer change seam someplace inconspicuous. Direct drive extruder and you may need to recalibrate E steps to get the proper extrusion rate to avoid under extrusion. Hang the reel above on a bearing hub spool holder and feed the filament directly into the top of the extruder with no reverse Bowden. On a textured PEI build plate, I don't even use any bed heating and some of the parts I print are tall, thin, and have very little bed contact area. High acceleration and fast moves would cause the tall thin parts to deform under acceleration and the upper portion of the parts would have a rough surface. Up to 45 degree overhangs are OK. Avoid overhanging arches, and avoid straight 45 degree overhangs that end at a peak (use a 3-5 mm flat top bridge instead). Rafts and supports are a disaster so just don't. Avoid large bed contact areas because TPU sticks so well. I'll design the part with grooves if it requires a large bed contact area. Exporting a sparse infill model to resin print is a cool hack. New to me. Thanks!

Regarding the vat cleaning function, I recommend this procedure which I have been using for years. When you print something, don't throw away the supports. Keep aside those 4 cm tall and above. The pieces must have at least 2x1cm raft. Before doing the vat cleaning, mix the resin well, place the piece in a corner where the screen will light up and finish the cycle. This means that the raft merges with the solid film of the cleaner and by pulling the supports, you can remove the film without the risk of piercing the fep, without having to empty the vat, or immerse your hands in the resin

What about electroplating?

Resin is the hardest way to print, especially with how toxic the resin is, fdm its just slice, print, remove supports, use. But resin ads in washing, drying, and curing and on top of that until you get to curing, you're handling something thats toxic and shouldn't be touched at all.

Brother, get a Bambu Lab and Polymaker TPU H and print at 80mms from a heated dryer like the Sunlu 2 and you will get 101% perfect looking and functioning prints with failures = -1

2.5s exposure time is OK, but you need to decrease the Z-Lift speed on flexible resins

Forget about it. They all suck as soon as they have any little scratch on the surface. It propagates and falls apart. The best flexible ones are what Formlabs sells and BASF. The rest is complete garbage.

If you think SLA is easier than FDM, buy a Bambu...😂

Nice content! May interested in trying any different kinds of materials of 3D printing? Would love to give our support and reach any collab together if there's a chance! (PCBWay zoey)

Please for the love of fucking god and the rest of your audience explain what the hell you are doing. This video was so badly put together.

you must have used a shit fdm printer if you think resin printing is easier than fdm

Resin sucks and FDM is easy. The difference between pushing a button and having a print compared to the precautions, prep, cleanup and general hassle of resin isn't even a comparison. It's like saying multi part epoxy you need to cure in an oven is easier than a hot glue gun lol. Also my FDM parts don't crumble from UV degradation and are just generally stronger and better in everyway, the only benefit to resin is the resolution which has no benefit for anything but, the absolute smallest mechanical parts where .1mm is the difference between it working or not and the amount of people printing parts like that is tiny.

Black resin is always hard to print The resin needs to be warm around 25c You need to wash, wash, cure, wash, cure all at normal times or they can break down the print Cure times should not double as the can break down the print, it looks like they did in your case

In 2024 FDM is set and forget basically. On BambuLab printers it's super noob-friendly and you only need a printer and a spool. Done, you're printing TPU on included profile without much issues.

15:41 scrubbing these parts while in the ipa will help eliminate the tack.