Відео

too much .lol

Apparently not 😂

Appreciate the support, It does make you panic. luckily it is just primmer and not final colour

That was my concern, not only hard to apply BUT what about the final result . So replaced all of it

thank you , and yes a kill switch or a way to activate it is a good way to address theft. I too have hood locks so you cannot gain access to the engine bay to hot wire or disconnect battery. Good luck on the Mustang

Actually, little secret I sprayed the epoxy tonight as it takes 12 hours to fully cure. Tomorrow is just 2k build primer, easy peasy

Thank you, I sprayed the epoxy tonight as it needs to cure before I spray high build tomorrow. Went good, no issues with hardening in the gun.

LOL, hope some of the content helps. Are you restoring or thinking about working on a classic?

I loved watching Red Green. If this was a metal car regular tape would have worked but being fiberglass I was worried that when spraying the paint it would peel the regular tape away and make a mess. I want this to hold firm and the metal tape is best

It is tough, I do not want to rush anything but definitely happy about this milestone

Actually I prefer the metal. The issue with glass is I cannot use a wheel to strip the paint like I can on metal. I was using black abrasive disks on the mustang with no damage, if I used that on the glass it would tear it to shreds. So I had the long and arduous task to sand paint off.

I know if I try and paint in this heat and humidity it will be a mess and I will not be happy. Yes, it is a 302,

@@68mustangrestoration34 Yes, you have put in a huge effort. Patience is now required.

I used it due to the fiberglass body as I tried regular tape and it was not holding well enough. I was snagging my skin on jagged fiberglass as well 🙂

Is my favorite as well

thank you, I appreciate it. I just have some sanding to do and will spray it as soon as the weather is appropriate

Unfortunately, I had never found a supplier that sold an authentic tach replacement, If you look at all the suppliers they either do not sell or are "look alikes" that do not look anything like the original. Maybe today there are options and if you find one let me know as I would change it in a heartbeat. I found a guy called rocket man who repairs them and he also creates a 3 inch tach for the dash but he does not sell them. I would be interested in getting one as well

Stumbled upon a Cobra that has both the Breeze mirrors AND the fender mounted (???). YT channel : 'Carbon Element', video title : 'SHELBY AC COBRA 427 S/C MK3 IS UNBELIEVABLE!' Posted Sep 27, 2023

Thank you , I was unaware of options regarding side mirrors as I too ran the fender mounted bullet mirrors. , I will definitely give them a look but of course the owner is the ultimate decision maker.

getting close. need to finish hood and then primer

Yes. owner still debating the color but will do one more.

The issue will be fitment, if they are not exactly right all the work I did will have to be redone. The spacers do not hurt anything and are on the hood as well so I will stick with them

yes it is the old adage, good from far BUT far from good.LOL

Thats how most describe me

I would for sure but that is a huge road trip for you, I might suggest a halfway point so we would split the drive. I know it would not end up at Barry's but would love to get the cars together. Why don't I check if there are any FORD events coming up.

Ok, that sounds good. We’ll get Barry to drive Jade there. 😁

appreciate it, thank you. I had them in my fastback and always wondered why they were not in the coupe or convertible

great question, the drop itself will reduce the height on its own, so you could keep your original springs. Some people do switch out the springs as they are over 50 years old and have become weak. So be careful if you order new as it will impact your stance. I assume you are still running the original engine (I6 or 289) as engine size will influence your spring choice as well

@@68mustangrestoration34 I will probably do the 1" drop springs as well. I will do some research. thanks

hope it goes well, it is tight but doable. good luck with yours

CJ pony parts it is in a complete package called "beltline weather strip" where you get all the window weather striping including the felt inside peices and the rubber outside pieces . NOt sure if they are sold separately but since I was restoring the car I needed all of them . Make sure you order for coupe or convertible. Fastback does not have rear windows so not kit for that.

Sorry if I mislead you, the lath screws are for securing carpet and other small pieces. The 3 screws that go through the top of the cluster and into the dash are simply 1.25 inch machine screws like I show in the video. (where I show the two philips head screw with the small or normal head sizes" the KEY is that in the metal part of the dash there are the 3 holes for the screws and those holes MUST have screw clips in them. If you watch this video ua-cam.com/video/rXGcaPfvTW8/v-deo.html and go to 4:36 you see the metal dash and you can see the screw clips on the dash. the screws then go through the plastic cluster, into the plastic dash and then through the screw clips . Aligning all of them is a pain, but take you time and you should be good.

@@68mustangrestoration34 Thanks for the clarification!

that sounds fantastic, wish I could have directed the subwoofer into the car. in all honesty my sub is almost useless with the roof down as I get no SPL (pressure) your idea is great. In order to make the box seem bigger you need to slow the sound wave, the BEST material is insulation like rockwool or fibreglass.I suggest you Search google on "how to increase subwoofer enclosure size". there are a number of forums on the subject. good luck and thank you

@68mustangrestoration34 Thanks for the quick reply. I will do that google search. I hate having to drill holes onto a classic, but it sounds like I will have to in order to keep it stationary.

@@dannycastaneda1974 yes, there are people much smarter than me on the forums. I had read you can increase the volume by using different materials some say rockwool, others like the fibre fill you get at art supply stores like michaels

@@68mustangrestoration34 I may go with the Poly fil just to avoid dealing with the itchy fibers.

thank you , primer should be late june and paint in July

thank you

YEs, we are having them reinforced as we speak. They will look a little more bulky but they must hold the door firm. I too am looking forward to the primer stage

unfortunately not, BUT if you watch the video called "interior rear quarter trim" and go to 14:09 I show you how I install them, Basically there is a single screw under the window crank plus you have to remove the windlace which is the trim that runs down the panel. then the panel lifts up and out. I hope this helps and good luck on your restoration

cracking fibreglass is always a pain . can always weld metal , but have to stich this stuff

YEs I had some fiberglass encased plywood and once water gets in it is worse as it keeps moisture in.

It only goes to show how much you need to inspect any car you are going to buy. HIdden issues always bite you in the rear

Thank you , jury still out on how I feel about fiberglass work. I guess working on rusty metal has its down side as well.

not a lot on the subject but there are a few articles that refer to it as the arming/shelby drop. Always nice to learn something new