Відео

Nope never came back from warranty been months

For which part? For primer 180-220 Between topcoats 300-600

Not sure which ones you’re looking at? They can be purchased for as little as 75$. Some are very expensive.

That is not necessarily correct. Lacquer was used on cars for years, and though it was a slightly modified formula it was basically the same thing as wood lacquer. Same thing with modern car paint it’s a 2k which has been more or less copied into use with furniture

Bingo what’s up! Solvent nason fulthane 2k urethane. It was a fun experience and I like that I can buff it after 24 hours but it’s hard the dust is still huge problem for me. Ideally id like to not have to cut and buff but I had to on this one, I enclosed my booth didn’t know if you noticed that in the video

Hey! I’ve always wondered how car paint would perform on cabinets and furniture. Everyone seems to bash the idea but personally with these new 2k products targeted for wood it doesn’t seem like a bad idea to try the car paint especially if it’s cheaper! It seems like the solvent based 2k polys are a lot easier to work with than the water based bc the water is dependent on the climate. The hardest part with solvent like you said is the dust since it dries so fast unless you got a dedicated spray booth sucking all the air out that dry dust will land back in the finish and that makes for a fun day to cut and buff it out. Great video as always and awesome finish. I tried that with lacquer and it didn’t come out as great but then again I started with 600grit and then jumped to 1000 then cut/buff still didn’t remove the micro scratches. Gotta start with at least 2000 and can’t using anything that randomly orbits it just needs to spin.

Yeah man DA sander no orbit all the way the scratches will look like French polish. What lacquer? If you’re taking about the lacquer I’ve used in my videos I never polished after the fact because of that. My final coat was always just good and had to make it perfect. Buffing car paint is a heck of a lot easier than lacquer.that’s not a problem unique to you it’s just that most UA-camrs including me you can’t see that close up but if you did I’m sure it would look just like yours. I’ll tell you though lol But when it comes to satin I really don’t care you know. Getting that 90+ sheen gloss is the only reason I try a lot of different products. Using auto paint is not necessarily new it’s just that I do a ton of research lol and i try to find out what works on a forum and bring it to UA-cam. Just trying to do something different. It’s not really gonna be cheaper unless you’re comparing it to something like gallery. No reason it should be that expensive to buy a product like centurion (which is actually economical) but some of the Italian 2ks are insane and I won’t even consider buying something that unrealistic to me.

@bingobunga8995 I never want anyone to be misled by my videos though. There’s some polishing scratches and maybe a few pigtails in there but you’ll never see them. And I’ve kind of set a rule for myself which is that if it looks good in natural light it’s okay. Sometimes good enough for my customers is good enough for me.

@@milosrestoration1337 I’ve used high gloss Sherwood nitro lacquer and wasn’t impressed at all. No matter how much I thinned it I would spray it and goes on like glass then wrinkles up into orange peel as it dries and cures. Very disappointed with the product but it definitely sanded and buffed well I just didn’t have the right equipment to do it properly. The white vinyl sealer I’ve used in the past and the CAB acrylic lacquer from Sherwood were much better products. Nitro lacquer is very outdated idk why my local Sherwin Williams stores still carry it and not the better stuff. I’m moving over to 2k polys now even if isocyanates are the new hazard to contend with. I’ve been experimenting with gallery series as well adding a crosslinker which is safer than isocyanate catalysts it uses benign aziridine as the hardener. I found out Gallery was a spin-off of Sayerlack’s Hydroplus and is actually compatible with the crosslinker from Caldwell Painting. It actually outperformed 2k Renner against acetone in his test which was very impressive. The adhesion test was less desirable but I’d wager the primer he used was the limiting factor.

Thank you very much!

30-40%

Thank you very much!

Thank you!

I have a dog named Milo! Thank you, I don’t tint the lacquer myself I use pre tinted lacquer and sealer.

@@milosrestoration1337 I have a dog named mylo too!!

Thank you very much!

Thank you!

I haven’t seen it with the hardware yet! I will change the thumbnail when I do.

Yeah I don’t think I would go any smaller. Also a 308 allows sometimes more than one pass if needed.

Agreed! It was more of a just for fun and UA-cam thing. I tried a two part glazing but it was too hard to sand, maybe I’ll give the UPOL a shot

Thank you! Probably so. Once I am more caught up at my day job I hope to!

It does! It’s more of an accent color.

Thank you! Im kind of trying to do some instructional videos, and a fine paints of Europe video seemed like a popular product.

How did I waste it though? Wouldn’t you still have to do vinyl sealer and then a precat?

Didn’t know this, it must not be offered at my store

@milosrestoration1337 no! Pre cat high build primer surfacer is all you need. I sand the piece with 150, prime 2 coats, sand with 320, and spray your top coats. You sprayed the gallery, then burned most of it back off

@shidoin5398 true, vinyl sealer doesn’t have a lot of build to it. So I kind of end up using the first coat as a burn through to get flat on the piece. But I’ll definitely take that into account for my next piece. I’ve switched to a 2k primer that is high build so hopefully I won’t have that issue in the future

@milosrestoration1337 vinyl is only needed in high moisture areas, but that is old school data when nitro lacquer was used. It isn't needed for pre cat

I have whenever I do light colors. But pigmented lacquers are just much easier to deal with and color match.

@@milosrestoration1337 where do you get your pigmented lacquer? I’m in Houston and can’t find anyone the carry’s it

@rytyky03 Google Benjamin Moore southwestern paint. I believe they would have it.

thanks @@milosrestoration1337

Thanks again!

Clean shot valve...just had to watch til the end :)

It’s a clean shot. It’s a pretty effective way to stop spits from most airless sprayers

The tritech tip is fine, you just have to use a graco orange guard and then a graco one seal as well- not the tritech seal it won’t fit. That confused me for a while and I didn’t think it would work.

I don’t have a dog in the fight as far as which one is better. I think the appeal of a tritech is the whole pump operation, not necessarily the tips. Although some people swear by them, I was able to stop getting runs with them in this particular video so all the better I guess🤷‍♂️

I just use my fingers and hold the bottom lightly. I use a clamp that’s the same size diameter of the door hanger hook and clamp it to the top and loosen it when I’m done spraying. You could also use a spring clamp to hold it.

Thank you! It’s a navy blue, as it appears to me anyways. It depends on what kind of paint it’s mixed into and the lighting also. It’s a popular color and I think it would fit in well just about anywhere.

I would use an awl and try to keep paint out off the panel cracks. Locking in a floating panel can be bad because the wood wants to move but the caulk can make the whole panel crack.

Agreed. Still hate doing it though, I still think that since theres a big move towards using different materials like MDF and HDF the debates definitely gonna be less relevant in the future, but for now there’s still plenty of those rail and stile doors.

@@milosrestoration1337 Yeah it does sometimes mean another day of drying but it definitely looks nicer

Thank you! The tobacco brown is a really pretty color.

i also have 3M performance but no compressor

It’s a personal preference. If you’re just using lacquer I’ve gotten similar results with both but the compressor is just a gigantic piece of equipment. The turbine is smaller and with the turbine you don’t have to suffer from the same moisture issues. I really don’t think it’d be fair for me to make the decision, I feel like you have more possibilities for upgrading your system down the road with the air compressor, but it also produces much more overspray.

The air compressor is an asset in itself but it’s just a big piece of equipment. You can also buy a large enough air compressor to upgrade to an air assisted airless finish pump if things really take off for you. Also, the turbine guns themselves (not the turbines) are very expensive to replace and the replacement parts are expensive

I just bought a quick shot! Lol

@@milosrestoration1337 don’t try and paint walls with it I heard that motor gets hot quick

@@bingobunga8995it’s not 100% what I expected honestly, I figured all of the kinks from the true coat would’ve been worked out. I’ve got a little HOA contract I do that has a bunch of small jobs, I bought it just so I don’t have to clean out a sprayer to spray five cabinet doors.

@@milosrestoration1337 true that, better than lugging around a 2HP air compressor although the oasis xd compressors and a 300’ air hose would solve that problem lol then you could use the 3M PPS system on an hvlp but that’s like a $10,000 setup vs a $2,000 true shot. There’s also that graco tc pro but that’s pretty heavy on the wrist.

@bingobunga8995 the TC was garbage, I burnt that thing in 3 weeks money poorly spent and it always lost its prime. Although I just painted a bathroom with the quick shot and it was pretty convient. I’m gonna learn how to work on the quick shot and just be prepared to change the pump and motor.

Wow, thank you! It means a lot.

I don’t understand? Not registering?

Pressing the like or thumbs up nothing happenned it didnt show that i had liked .​@@milosrestoration1337

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thank you!

Yep, all the real problems no one wants to talk about. I just have found gallery to be so much less picky then all the other 1k products plus the fact that I have to fix all the inconsistencies with it. I did this set at night during the week while I was back and forth being out of town for work so it took me like 4-5 evenings. Don’t even know if I saved any time with the gallery honestly.

@@milosrestoration1337 CAB acrylic lacquer is faster and cheaper. Only problem is clients hate the stench of it for the day and a half it outgases. There’s a local paint company where I live in Florida called Florida Paints and they have a 1k product called Scott-thane. It’s just as good as Gallery if not better cause I can put a second coat on while it’s still tacky/wet and I have zero issues with micro bubbles/dimpling. Plus it’s like $40 cheaper too. Cabinet painting isn’t easy and id say most guys who are doing it are doing it wrong but you definitely know what you’re doing. Gallery isn’t bad just gotta understand the product and know how to work with it. And the data sheet is wrong. It’s 2.5hrs for recoat if humidity is above 50% and/or it’s cool out. Definitely a drippy product on verticals but with an hvlp it isn’t bad. I’d say it’s much harder to do it right with an airless. Usually I rock with a 1.4 mm tip and use a compliant air cap. It seems like waterbased stuff just does better with more air compared to lvlp air caps. Also when spraying vertically you should move the gun up and down instead of side to side it helps a lot to stop drips and sags. There’s nothing like having to fix 30year old oak cabinets and paint them white which is what I’m doing now and it’s hell. I’ve already burned through 3 gallons of vinyl sealer haha and if I was using an airless I’d imaging it’d be closer to 5. I really wish I had that surfprep that sander is awesome just wish it was $600+

Thank you! Although I do love the color evergreen fog by Sherwin.

Thank you! Me as well.

Thank you! I use a couple different sprayers. For water based coatings I use a graco 390 cordless with a 308 tip. For lacquer I use a graco hvlp turbine sprayer.

Yes. Sometimes a very thin sealer is used at the furniture factory and it can be very difficult to remove this without sandblasting. Usually a chemical stripper will remove any sealer preventing a stain from absorbing but not always.

Lacquer thinner is a hot solvent. It’s evaporates really quickly, which leads to faster drying and also can cause issues when going over previous coatings. It’s a good idea to use a mix of retardant and lacquer thinner in equal parts in my experience.

Basically just a slower evaporator. Tends to make dry times a little longer and give the coating a chance to level

Just using Mohawks precat. Ive heard that but ive had no good experiences with water based the products basically just cost me money lol.

The margins for water based on furniture flipping are too slim in my opinion. It’s a good product for cabinets

@@milosrestoration1337 I wasn’t referring to water based lacquer. CAB lacquer is a solvent based product but as opposed to traditional nitrocellulose lacquer, CAB has an acrylic resin in it to have more UV protection as traditional nitro lacquers yellow from UV exposure. I will say CAB is slightly more expensive than Nitro and it dries faster as well. But lately I’ve been struggle to find quality lacquer thinner specifically for lacquer and not for cleaning tools so I’ve been testing MEK to thin my lacquer and I am shocked at the results how well it levels out and how quickly it dries. I can put lacquer down heavier and it won’t drip and sag like it does with the lacquer thinners I’ve tried. I only have the Crown brand from Sherwin Williams or the Klean Strip lacquer thinner brand from the big box stores. NONE of the SW stores near me carry SW brand lacquer thinners such as R7K320 or R7K120 specifically designed for their lacquer products. But as for mixing clear high gloss with undercoater/vinyl sealer it needs to be cut like 50/50 to get any jump in sheen from the base coat sheen and then you need to put on more coats because the coverage is poor due to the opacity from mixing clear with color to that degree.

Do you have any social media? I’d like to pick your brain some.