Відео

Appreciated! The video was more about the developing method and creating an environment for controlled developing. Much could have been done to further improve the testing, like the use of a densitometer to compare the actual depth of the negative and if the developing times match the output .. :)

Thank you!

Sure! Especially if you process film yourself .. but it’s not like one is better than the other. it’s more of a thought experiment. Sure, film tri-x might only be useable from 100-6400 .. but that’s okay for most purposes. Even when shooting with a digital camera I mostly stick to one ISO speed per scene. Auto iso can be weird for example. At the end of the day it just boils down to whatever works for you .. :)

@@doyoudevelop I have no skin in the film vs. digital game and I don’t see photography as an “either or” game. I have 35 mm film (2xNikon, 1xLeica, and am looking for some vintage Leica Barnack cameras to use), 4x5 (Arca-Swiss field camera), medium format (Hasselblad 500C), and digital (2xNikon, 5xLeica) cameras. I just wanted to clarify that your cost analysis was incomplete and biased to film. Whether a lab or we process the film, that costs money too. In addition, one either has to print film photographs or digitize them (either process has a monetary and time cost). Digital photography is certainly more convenient and not necessarily much more expensive than film photography. Nevertheless, I enjoy the process and results of shooting with film too. Most films have relatively low ISO values, and generally image quality degrades as the ISO value rating increases. With modern digital cameras, IQ degrades with increasing ISO too, but some have exceptionally high quantum efficiency that film simply cannot compete with (the physics of film is much different than that in CCD or CMOS sensors). Photographing under very low light conditions with film can be challenging due to Reciprocity failure. Then there’s the ability to verify composition, exposure etc. in a digital camera that cannot be done with film cameras.

Ist eine super berechtigte Frage. Ich denke es gibt viele, die lieber analog Fotografieren, weil es da einfach weniger “settings” und lärm gibt. Ein Film, eine Kamera, ein Look.

That depends on the optics, but the focal length will not have any effect on quality.

@@doyoudevelop Thanks. Good to hear that I don't have to invest for 100mm lens, but the 60mm one doesn't look to be cheap either lol

@@fireice2585 Have a look at vintage lenses for film cameras, they are usually very affordable and easily are on the same level when it comes to camera scanning compared to “modern” macro lenses. All you’d need is an adapter for your digital camera.

Thank you!

@@jeffstephens5266 I agree. I use modern Leica and Voigtländer M, vintage Leica and Voigtländer M, vintage Leica + Nikon Leica Thread mount, vintage Leica R lenses, and vintage Nikon 35 mm lenses on Leica digital CL, M11, M11 Monochrom, and SL2 digital cameras (the Nikon lenses aren’t adapted to the M cameras).

What other units are you thinking of? I've only scanned on the Epson V800 and some high-end scanners like the Imacon or Noritsu lab scanners.

Thank you! Yes, it’s a game changer compared to a Flatbed when working through big archives. And I enjoy the fact that you get “raw” images of your negatives, rather than a tiff/jpeg. If you haven’t ordered already: -10% off with the code doyoudevelop on the valoi/kamerastore page :)

Jahan, I have indeed made my purchase thru' Kamerastore - Thank you for facilitating a discount !

@@andrewtongue7084 Lovely! Enjoy it!

Thank you !

Pour in water, set a custom time (like 10 minutes) and refill fresh water every minute.

Good question - yes, absolutely!

Thanks so much :)

Thank you!

Thank you for your kind words!

@@doyoudevelop I went ahead and bought a loader. In addition, I purchased 10m of low ISO old film from Ukraine for $20 delivered.

@@throtol Fantastic! Sounds like a bargain

Yes! I think Atlanta Film Co sells some of that, if not at least it's similar as it's ISO 250/200.

@@doyoudevelop sells the 400' roll though? I say that specifically because your savings end up being under $5 a 36exp roll, despite what the initial cost of the giant roll is.

I don't use it because I currently only do B/W, which I prefer doing with inversion technique. But if I was doing colour from home, I'd definitely use it :)

@@doyoudevelop if you want to sell it, just let me know. I'll pick it up :)

Hah! Both are great in my opinion ..

But I personally would probably get an M8 :P

@@doyoudevelop that’s EXACTLY my problem and holding me back from finally making a decision :)

Thank you! I personally use Lightroom and Negative Lab Pro, but I hear excellent things about Capture One too .. essentially you can do the same things everywhere, it just boils down to what program you prefer working with :)

Super Frage! Danke Dir dafür. Ganz easy: Jein :D Du kannst natürlich alles einfach auf das Leuchtbrett legen, dementsprechend ist aber auch die Durchleuchtung nicht so stark, eventuell musst du dann mit langsameren Verschlusszeiten arbeiten. Kurz gesagt, ja es ist möglich. Gemütlicher wäre natürlich optionale Licht.

Absolutely! It's just good to point out to anyone who is new to it.

I haven't tried scanning a single 35mm frame, but I don't think that'd work. I think you'd need a film strip of around at least 3 or 4 frames

Thank you!

Oh that's not possible, maybe that wasn't clear. With the lights turned on I pre-load the first few centimetres of film onto the reel and then turn off the lights. This just means the loading process is easier because I don't have to fiddle around in darkness trying to get the film onto the reel.

Nothing horrible, but i've had better negative quality after a longer fix. Also less curling. This isn't 100% proven though, just my personal experience :)

@@doyoudevelop I see, and what does 'quality' mean in this scenario? also you're speaking on all fixers or only acid rapid fixers?

@@domenicming9551 They just look better compared to when I was just starting out, no curl, good dye removal, nice dry ..

thank you!

Yes! Just like you would with an enlarger and a grain focuser. It helps if the camera has a magification setting for focusing :)

Ja, leider! Sollte die Tage wieder online gehen. Bei Fragen am besten mir auf Instagram schreiben @doyoudevelop :)

And it’s not an issue with the M11 if you keep the camera on. The battery has good capacity.

I've heard about vignetting and saw some examples of it, but I have checked my unit and it doesn't produce any vignette. I wouldn't worry too much about that though because the fix in Lightroom (or anything else) is really quite effective.

@@doyoudevelop Oh, nice! Maybe people get vignetting from the lens they use. I have the exact same lens as you do, and a Sony, so it will probably be fine. Thanks for the response.

Sure! Enjoy! @@laurencewhite4809

I reckon what the Easy35 lacks in post processing speed is makes up with superior quality. If you have access to a decent digital camera, you will get better scans than with any flat bed or similar intermediate scanning system. Each person must figure out for themselves if it's worth their effort .. for me it certainy beats the terribly old and useless scanning softwares like silverfast, epson scan or vuescan.

@@doyoudevelop Thanks for your reply. I currently have the Fuji XE-1 which is many years old. I am in the market to get the new camera. I was thinking of the Fuji X-T5 which is a APSC. Do you think it is better to go with the full frame like the Nikon ZF or something like that?

That's still good! Full frame is obviously the best possible option, but really not a *must have* .. you can get really fine results with a cropped sensor. It also depends if you want to use the camera for other things too, or if it would just be a dedicated scanning camera.@@sfomann

@@doyoudevelop No I am intending to use the camera for regular use too and then whenever I need to scan my old slides and negatives, I can use the easy35. I am still not sure how much time it will require to remove dust artifacts and post process from the camera scans. I have thousands of color negatives and slides!

I would recommend using an anti-static cloth, gloves, perhaps even an ionising gun to remove the ability of the negatives to catch dust. Also with the dust gate of the Easy35 you ensure very few particles make it onto the scan.@@sfomann

Ja, klar! Sowohl der 360 als auch der Easy35 haben die Möglichkeit die Perforierung mit zu scannen ;)

Danke!!!@@doyoudevelop

Yes, that's a good take on it! Thank you for tuning in and sharing your thoughts <3