Відео

great video

@hassradorgaming7408 thanks, I haven't implemented a DT switch yet, but now I think I might do that and maybe create another one of these

@@jeffjaekel2558 Thanks! I hope this was helpful

@kenkerber-gl2ng Yes. I'll rattle can the enamel, then sponge on the acrylic, then use fine brushes, etc., on the tiny details. If I decide to add light colored mortar I apply that last using Robert's Mortar Formula. If the mortar is intended to be dark I just leave it alone as the unpainted engraved lines are dark enough for my taste

@kenkerber-gl2ng If I use enamel at all I apply it first, then acrylics

@@forklift8362 I would simply test the thinners you have on hand and see if they work on some scrap/junk models.

@@modelmantstewart1292 No, but I am working on a different styled N scale warehouse

@dalepohto4250 Yeah, I'm not the best videographer lol. Thanks for watching!

@Curious_Skeptic Thanks for stopping by. Personally, I do massive amounts of research before purchasing anything like this. I'm wary of the cheapo products out there, and I aim to go as high of a quality as my budget can allow. I'm not brand pushing this cutter, btw, I'm not sponsored by anyone and dont have any interest in sponsorship. I picked this up because it met my requirements. In the not too distant future I'll be upgrading my laser cutting endeavours to a much nicer machine, but only when it's financially feasible to do so. Eventually I might get into 3d printing, but only when I'm ready to dedicate the time (my free time is sparse). Thanks again for watching!

@@haroldalexis4200 Thanks for watching!

@barryolson8428 no that's just something I whipped up on the fly one day

@barryolson8428 There will be something similar in N scale some day, but it won't be exactly this building.

@BoxcarJerry Thanks, I simply worked off of the actual prototype building for the dimensions. Others have expressed interest in shallower kit options as well, so expect something like that to be worked on in the future. :)

@stevechilders2425 thanks for the suggestions. This is all in my spare time, so it takes a while to get these things produced (and this kit has a lot of parts to engrave). I should have some stock up on the site today. Thanks for your interest!

@@JoeyBPhotography I am patient, no problem. Much better and more realistic than most other manufacturers. Thanks

@stevechilders2425 Thanks I appreciate that comment! I work right from the prototype buildings for the measurements.

@toddfeldpausch9489 Thanks! This is actually a prototype building in Little Falls NY, I took the measurements straight from it (albeit compressed it a bit). I do have plans for future, more shallow relief structures. It's all done in that elusive thing called spare time lol

@@ronheiser3248 There will be something similar in N scale, but not this exact building

@@scotabot7826 I thought about using stencil material for something like that, I just haven't gotten around to trying it out

I've cut my own masks with terrible results... problem is, no matter what I used, lining the mask up proved nearly impossible... I've laser cut several tape brands (Tamiya, blue painters tape, and traditional masking tape)... yeah, they all stretch, deform, tear, ect. I would consider myself a more "advanced " modeler, having built these for many years. Using laser board maskes... we'll no mater how small the mask, they "warp Up resulting 8n bleeding... I have great airbrush skills... masks just aren't practical. The best way, is to engineer the brick detail to be 3mm x 1mm (which is slightly oversized in scale) but not noticed once on the structure. The 3mm width matches cheap flat brushes from Amazon. I could paint that walls in a couple hours.

​@SkipJack1950 The brick detail is already 3mm x 1mm, actually, mostly because the material is 3mm thick, so that the corners look correct. It's also far easier to measure and match patterns with that size. I've since picked up some acrylic paint markers and it goes far faster now. It's all up to how detailed a modeler wants to get with their builds, though. Going forward with larger structures I'll probably just keep the walls a more solid color and just add weathering techniques. I'll reserve the brick-by-brick to smaller structures lol

@JoeyBPhotography completely understand... I've only seen your kit on the video, so was only making a point about the individual brick painting technique. I use a very porous filter sponge material to perform the sparce "sponge technique" with great success. I also apply watered down wood filler as mortar with impressive results. I prime the MDF with "gloss" white or light gray spray paint, to seal the mdf before coloring using very diluted Tamiya & IPA with a "marble " pattern of multiple brick & earth tones using airbrush, followed by my mortar technique resulting in a superior brick texture. Just as the wood filler starts to skin over, I use my finger moisten with water to remove the mortar from the brick... the grit in the woof filler scuffs the Tamiya paint that is very convincing to weathered brick. Overspay with dirty brick tone IPA (very diluted) to unify the surface. Follow up with cheap craft paint VERY THIN washes of weathering tones, and... TA-DA!!! The magic of art transformed the MDF into a hyper realistic brick wall that would even impress Boomer Diorama and Hollywood LOL. -Happy Modeling 😁

@SkipJack1950 Thanks for detailing your technique! I didn't even think to use wood filler as a mortar, very interesting. I currently use "Robert's Brick Mortar Formula" when I want to fill in the mortar lines and it works well. I like to tint it with acrylic inks to avoid stark white mortar lines. Thanks for the reply, I'll have to experiment with what you wrote up here. Happy modeling as well!

@@Blue_Dingo I'm not exactly sure, but I do know that it was operated out of back in 1985.

@@JoeyBPhotography The reason I ask is it's beautiful, but I model 1964.

@Blue_Dingo Thanks, if I find more information on its original build date I'll post it

Modeling the 1960's would be older buildings with the corbels and trim detail at the top of the wall (expensive & a lost art in today's construction. I really like the older buildings... similar to the DPM kits. That style architecture was really appealing and dates the era modeled.

@@Blue_Dingo I managed distribution centers such as this style and most were 1960s but I am familiar with a couple others built in the early 50s. many of the age differences were the height, with 50/60s being 20-25' interior clear, 70s with 30' clear (add 4' for exteriors) and 80s+ even higher

@@Vector_QF8 Thanks for watching! Yes, I seal with dullcote

@@JoeyBPhotography Thanks for the confirmation! I was unsure how oils worked with that. I’m subscribing and looking forward to more tutorials and tips!

@Vector_QF8 My experience has shown you need to give the oil washes time to dry before dullcote is applied, and then give the dullcote time to fully dry as well before applying the next wash.

@toddw6716 glad this was helpful!