Відео

Looks like your still out a few months Jim, just hold out a lil longer 👽👍🏻

@@Op1zilla I find it really strange that other people have to answer for Ryan....why can't answer these questions himself???

@@jmrides777 (ADD) Jim, Always been this way , but just from video is what I got, funny when they Sponsor someone To Win, Why all of a sudden an intrest in helping someone Win instead of making the product better in first place, All internet look at me Drama lol anyway youll get it but not when you want it 👽👍🏻

One year and eight months, my dude. I waited for a year and eight months for all my parts, and still got wrong size nuts, etc... Good luck.

He looks kinda busy

If your Lucky you will get one because they are preorder but this new venture out to have new cranks made by a factory Sounds cool as long as they are Quality, Ill get a few 👽👍🏻

thanks alot for all that, tons of great information i didnt know. im going to lean on my gut feelings about what i would want as the ideal powertrain for a bicycle. my specific use case and all. im moving from hilly city that tolerates loud 2 stroke bikes to coastal flatlands that wont be as tolerant of 2 stroke bicycle. I want to be able to pull a trailer long distances on trails that only allow e bike. id also like to take long distance trips. hub motors could grow on me, but for now im pretty bias towards mid drive, if youre already set up to do a gas mid drive, you might aswell go dual drive imo, tooling cost aside.

​@@ryandarrah4247Cruising with gas and using electric off the line and up inclines will keep that battery pretty full. It sounds like it should do what you want it to. The cars and cameras guys struggled with getting the gas throttle and the electric to go at the same time but there's a simple solution: two cable throttle, one pulls a cable operated potentiometer and the other goes to the carb. Twist and both go in the same proportion. The ratio of one to the other could be tuned with barrel adjusters. And with the dual throttle you could use a motorcycle/atv ignition switch with the starter button, either the switch being in run or the button being pushed allows the signal to go to the controller. Quick little on/off for electric and a convenient method for short bursts. Electric is still controlled by throttle position but the handle bar switch makes it easy and quick. No messing around with a left electric and a right gas, or trying to use both with one hand.

@@ShinyUmbreon765 another great comment, ill need to watch that episode of cars and cameras. i would use thumb throttle twist throttle combo. manual clutch requires independent throttle for clutch engagement ( quick flick for starting, and engaging the clutch at low speed) a kill switch will come in handy. my concern is this: how much % difference is the free rev electric motor speed vs. max rpm at lets say 30mph running 2k+ watts and a phase runner. if its very high like 50% more then it may restrict gearing combinations between gas and electric to avoid events where ev wheel spin in mud would blow up the gas engine from over rev.

I see what you mean. Off road, independent control is more useful than a fixed proportion of gas to electric from one throttle, even if you could switch between gas only, electric only or gas+electric with a three position switch. A lot of ebike guys running 2wd will use a left throttle and a right throttle and balance the two manually based on riding conditions. Some guys just sync them up with a rear bias. Some have made little arduino setups with tachometers on each wheel and the throttle will dial back on the wheel that's spinning faster. You bring up a good point about getting the electric and the gas to play nice outputting to the same spindle. For paved roads I like the idea of the gas geared for speed with the electric geared for torque, but getting them to play nice with a big difference like that requires more complex controls and more complex mechanicals. On the motorized bike forums a guy did get two pocket bike engines, one geared low and one geared high, to play nice. Each engine powered a different wheel. He says he rolled off one throttle then onto the other. Also read about a series hybrid build where a 25cc two stroke powered a generator that topped off a lead acid battery pack. Not very sporty and range was still based on battery capacity but it did extend it quite a bit. I ought just send you emails at this point. 😂

​@@ShinyUmbreon765 i actually believe mechanically and controls wise it will play nice. im really just concerned electric will loaded spin fast enough to blow up the gas engine, doesn't appear t be the case, it looks like their power drops off sharp enough. also appears hub motors are not really suited for hybrid use because they are not efficient at low speeds where its needed most. starting a gas engine from astop would be abusive to the hub motor and battery. as for charging thats could be a 3rd electric motor with a meachincal pto set up, maybe a mechanical switch and dual batteries, charge one bank, use another. also perhaps an ac inverter set up for generator use

why would back driving the motor and being able to charge the battery add utility? as far as i know most users with regen avail disable it because it causes problems and doesn't effectively charge the battery. without gas e bike battery typ can last an entire day of riding, with a gas addition it surely will last all day. why not simply charge the battery when home? back driving would make the bike slower when in gas only mode.

often regen+ a full battery can cause the bms to sense overcharge and cut the battery power, then you need to reset the system to continue

@@ryandarrah4247 regen braking in my opinion is done wrong, shouldnt come on soon as you stop accelerating, should be just part of your braking allowing you to still coast. and it is that ability to recharge on the go which makes having a smaller battery make sense.

@@ryandarrah4247 cant you just have a voltage regulator cut off to prevent that.

​@@jamessssssssssssssssssssssssss​@jamessssssssssssssssssssssssss Not how lithium batteries or generators work. Lithium batteries have to be charged carefully and require relatively complex charging circuits. Nimh batteries can be charged much easier but also get worn out much sooner unless a proper bms is used. That only really leaves lead acid, and that obviously has weight problems, much lower capacity than rated if actually running any useful amount of amps. If you ran 10 amps out of a 10 amp hour rated lead battery you might get 3-3.5 actual amp hours out of it.

good point, ive had hub builds, i dont like how they feel. im definetly in the mid drive only camp. you can mess with gearing and weight distribution feels right. also weak axles, fragile wires where they feed into the axle, annoying tire changes... but hub builds do fundamentally fit the bill.

@@ryandarrah4247 I would love to try mid drive someday, but still have too much fun with 2 Stroke 👽👍

​@@ryandarrah4247Grintech has a couple great hub motors. Those QS273 are efing crazy. Guys throw 200 amps through them for very short bursts.

@@Op1zilla i hear ya, im not leaving 2t, im just not dumping all my r&d efforts into 2t rn, ill still come up with some stuff, tensioner, super bb pin, true stand have all been recent. i want this motor on an overbuilt tandem 4-5' wide tire bike, with a trailer and full camping set up.

​@ryandarrah4247 exactly what I need one for. I have almost everything to build a camper for a bike. However my bikes been reinforced and I probably wouldn't have enough room for the electric motor.