![Gold Shift Garage](/img/default-banner.jpg)
- 21
- 47 871
Gold Shift Garage
Приєднався 23 гру 2022
Welcome to Gold Shift Garage - i am tearing down / rebuilding my 82 Holden WB Ute, i have limited knowledge in engine building & panel beating but we will learn along the way. 90% of the work will be at home in my shed except the 308 build as i will outsource that to a professional.
At the end of the build i will be racing my friend who is building a Ford XB 4 door 351, should be a interesting build and a fun race at the end for bragging rights.
At the end of the build i will be racing my friend who is building a Ford XB 4 door 351, should be a interesting build and a fun race at the end for bragging rights.
USING A $60 HVLP EBAY SPRAYGUN
USING A $60 HVLP EBAY SPRAY GUN we lay down some well-deserved epoxy on the WB HOLDEN UTE. I have NEVER USED a spray gun before, The Spray gun actually works well once i sort out the minor details like - thinners % and spray gun settings on the gun. i also have my FB channel up and running so you can get all the latest sneak peeks before the EP has gone to youtube.
GOLD SHIFT GARAGE FB Link below
profile.php?id=100094759789452
GOLD SHIFT GARAGE FB Link below
profile.php?id=100094759789452
Переглядів: 1 440
Відео
WB UTE, PANEL WORK PART #2
Переглядів 870Місяць тому
Body work continues, Rust repairs on both front guards and The joys of body work, body filler, sanding, and more sanding. its all starting to take shape! @TwistedMetalCustoms ua-cam.com/video/FwjlMb4E0Ok/v-deo.html
WB UTE - BODY WORK PART#1
Переглядів 1,1 тис.2 місяці тому
WELCOME Back everyone - let the body work begin!! The joys of body work, body filler, sanding, and dust has arrived. i also do a realistic cost to this point of the build.
CAR SHOW WITH AUSSIE / AMERICAN MUSCLE CARS
Переглядів 5833 місяці тому
Welcome to Dalby, SW QLD for the annual CAR & BIKE SPECTACTULAR. lets go look at some of South West Queensland's beautiful cars, the coffee's hot - snags are cooking and some great people to talk too about these amazing cars. Thanks to PHILTHY PHIL PHOTOGRAPHY for the amazing photo's at the end. you can find him on youtube - @philthyphilphotography. righto lets get walking
WB UTE BUILD EP15 - RARE SPARES FLOOR PANS INSTALL
Переглядів 1,2 тис.3 місяці тому
Join me as we install 2 new Rare Spares floor pans, lets do some cutting and fit these into place. Say goodbye to holey floors forever. i also finally finish of the inner cab wall and remove all the rust from inside the support peice.
WB UTE BUILD 14 - CHASSIS WORK & INSTALLING A INNER CAB REAR WALL
Переглядів 8684 місяці тому
WB UTB UILD EP 14, welcome to another episode of the WB Ute build, this time we clean up and paint the front section of the Chassis and start installing the inner cab rear wall.
HOLDEN WB UTE BUILD #13 Cleaning Rusty Brakes!
Переглядів 2,4 тис.6 місяців тому
Double strength Vinegar VS Rust remover, which is better?? lets have a little competition between these 2 products on my WB's drum brakes. one will be covered and wrapped for 12hrs and the other will be painted on and left for 30mins. which has the better results
HOLDEN WB UTE BUILD #12 - PATCH PANELS
Переглядів 2,3 тис.7 місяців тому
HOLDEN WB UTE BUILD #12 - welcome back! the new yr is in full swing and so am again. this time we are welding Patch panels and playing with fibre glass resin.
$200 BARN FIND COMMODORE HAS ARRIVED - PART #1, HOW BAD IS IT??
Переглядів 2,6 тис.8 місяців тому
Its finally arrived - the $200 barn find Commodore, Thats right $200........ from my barn find video i found this tucked away between two sheds - it had sat there for 8yrs. lets get it home and start a Father -Son project. with NO transmission in this car what else can we find thats either wrong / pleasantly surprised about. ive got a feeling my son is going to love it!! i used Meguiar's cleani...
HOLDEN WB UTE BUILD #11- CUTTING OUT THE RUST PART 1
Переглядів 2,1 тис.9 місяців тому
HOLDEN WB UTE BUILD #11- WE FIND A RUSTY SANDWICH IN THE FIRE WALL, on this episode we find & cut out a lot of rusty sections. pay tribute to the QFES for fighting all the fires up here in SWQ and remove the fuel tank.
HOLDEN WB UTE BUILD #10 - WHAT DID WE FIND AFTER SAND BLASTING?? SO MANY BAD PATCHES!!!
Переглядів 4,7 тис.10 місяців тому
WB UTE BUILD #10 - WHAT DID WE FIND AFTER SAND BLASTING COMPLETED??? SO MANY BAD PATCHES!!! I now know the damage of what was under that rust on the wheel arch and also all around the Ute, we start grinding off some bad welds to find out how BAD, GOOD it maybe. you wont believe what patching we find - Let the work begin
HOLDEN WB UTE BUILD #8, 308 STROKE or not to STROKE??
Переглядів 4,2 тис.Рік тому
HOLDEN WB UTE BUILD #8, 308 STROKE or not to STROKE?? Holden 308 ENGINE TEAR DOWN BEGINS, we look into the engine closer to find out what type of Block, heads, manifold we have and see what condition it is in, are we going to leave it as a 308? or stroke it to a 355.... looking for around 420 - 450hp
HOLDEN WB UTE Build #7 THE BUILD - THE RACE ANNOUNCEMENT
Переглядів 2,4 тис.Рік тому
HOLDEN WB UTE Build #7 THE BUILD - THE RACE ANNOUNCEMENT, The Build - The Race? well its called the 6 pack challenge, HOLDEN vs FORD, 308 vs 351. we have been planning this race since a conversation we had during a Long nightshift. My WB Ute 308 vs Phils XB ford 351 and the winner receives ( bragging rights ) and a 6 pack of there choice. Cars must be 90% built at home in the shed. Philthy Phil...
HOLDEN WB Ute Build EP#6 Front End Removed & Paint Stripping Begins
Переглядів 1,5 тис.Рік тому
HOLDEN WB Ute Build EP#6 Front End Removed & Paint Stripping Begins
HOLDEN WB Ute Build ep#5 Engine & transmission removed
Переглядів 1,6 тис.Рік тому
HOLDEN WB Ute Build ep#5 Engine & transmission removed
HOLDEN WB Ute Build EP#4 shed upgrade / Window removal
Переглядів 1,2 тис.Рік тому
HOLDEN WB Ute Build EP#4 shed upgrade / Window removal
HOLDEN WB Ute Build EP#2 - How much rust is under this carpet?
Переглядів 3,3 тис.Рік тому
HOLDEN WB Ute Build EP#2 - How much rust is under this carpet?
Looks original, not molested full of bog still mint ready for resto by a professional panel beater even still has the tyre gate sitting in the spare wheel well ❤
Hi there mate good to see you’re having a go and learning but what im seeing here is there is the wrong way to learn or more so the hard way to learn being in the trade as a qualified panel beater I learned from my father who was one of greats in trade for decades I picked up hammer and dolly at 15 years old and done my trade in five years at tec I’m 45 now I was Advanced because of my father I was lucky your learning the hard way with out the right tools firstly that welder is crap 💩 get yourself a Lincoln mig welder with out all the over the top settings on it you should be learning with point 6 wire and only thinking about wire speed and heat control simplified those little shity welders with all the dial’s under the sun are confusing you need a proper size metal folder some one to show you hand forming skills with how to shape and shrink and stretch panel steel into different shapes and angles how to use the correct hammer dolly techniques also oxy heating and welding and lastly tig … first timers mistakes I see you trying to weld a new section of steel into a already rusted pitted lower quarter section you need to think bigger remake the whole lower section and most likely once you cut the other section off you’ll find the inner needs replacing as well rust repairs is all about getting back into clean metal again and hand forming of the new section once you learn heat control with a mig and how to do proper welding sequence how to hold the new section in place properly you’ll learn lots quicker anyway I wish I could show you how to repair the bottom sections of your quarter panels on one side and then go step by step with you on the other side it’s frustrating for me to watch you with out being able to help you my only other advice I can give you is go do a tafe course in panel beating you’ll learn things much easier from a tradesman technique and approach things differently
Poor old Ute had diy wanks trying hard on it and now it’s happening again to the poor thing 😂😂😂
Most panel beaters in the older stages of life die from emphysema, lung disease
Square cuts in doing rust repairs is a no no as it creates stress pulls in the corners of the welds . Do round corners
So looks like you’ve missed the opportunity to dress up all the dents in the box section and weld the Torno cover pinholes up while the back seat panel was removed the other issues I see here is you clean all the seams up first and remove old sealant epoxy prime it once it’s clean then you seam seal the joints then colour goes over it once it’s dried or wet on wet with epoxy and colour top coat so it can never rust again in the joints
the old rare spares floor pans last few I’ve done in that model holden is put the sill edge side in the folder and turn it down so it’s the same as the original ones not facing up the wrong way and also seam weld the cut lines so they look closer to the original ones and you can’t weld them in proper with the chassis still in the way .. and in most cases there will be rust on the cab mounts and the chassis were the rubber sits the main issue I’ve found with diy guys is they overlap the floor pans by way to much as a trade qualified panel beater I always use a light weight jack pushing under the dash down on top of the pan with a small block of wood to hold and mark the new section in place so the pan is actually plug welded proper to the front cab mounts as the the dodgy ones I’ve seen from underneath on nearly every single HQZJB have a yuck ten mill gap with no welds between the pan and cab mounts anyway hope I’ve helped you with my knowledge
Before commencing with the duco perhaps consider using a Water Filter between your spray gun and compressor to isolate the condensation in the compressed air and I'd be putting that Air Regulator together with the Water Filter at the compressor end to lighten up the spray gun making it less cumbersome
Awesome work Lee. As many have said here, Dont forget your mask! You are showing a lot of us that you really can do the job, it just takes time and patience and the end result can always be improved next time. BUT at least you have made a start and HAD A GO!
hi Stuart, i did forget to wear the mask, i too was too keen to get it done. i do have one for the rest of the journey. it sure does take time and patience - luckily with 5 kids i have plenty of that - sometimes hahaha. thanks for enjoying the episode mate i apricate the support
Take the good comments and throw away the rest! But yes, get a good mask! Sundstrom i think its called comes in a square container for around $120-$150! Ive had a few 308s and getting anything over 280hp is unrealistic to be honest! It can be done with an insane amount of money but id go with a 355 kit, with the heads you already have pprted and polished with stainless L34 size valves and k-line guides to run the unleaded! An edelbrock dual plane manifold with a brock spec quadrajet, a large cap bosch distributor and have it re-curved! Run thermo fans also, youll get a better throttle response and no vibration! A good set of pacemakers ( tuned if theyre available?) Go a decent quality cam with a rev range between 3800- 5700rpm! 308s dont like much more than that anyways! Id go with a cam that's as big as you can go with hydraulic lifters! JP OIL PUMP, ( YOU DONT HAVE TO GO HIGH VOLUME, ITS OVER RATED!! ) POWERBOND BALLANCER, ROLLMASTER DOUBLE ROW TIMING CHAIN SET, go with an electric fuel pump as the mechanical wont supply fuel when youre really needing it!!! Dont do any of the oil block off mods either! Waste of time!! Choose your cam according to if you're running an auto or manual too! Keep up the good work 👍🇦🇺
Absolutely agree and I guess this is the point I was trying to make. Building a 400hp plus engine is an expensive exercise. It can be done but the flip side is it won’t be fun to drive at all and will spend more time sitting in the shed than being driven. It will just become too much of a hassle to drive. Keep it a mild engine and it will serve you well. And it will be something you want to drive and can be driven daily. 280 hp will not be slow by any means, and it will be reliable. The real winner of any drag challenge is who drives to the track and who arrives on a trailer. If you want to have your cake and eat it too, supercharging is the way to go but how much do you want to spend. Save the money, and invest it into power steering and air conditioning. And definitely keep the dog in the video!
Unlike some people, I like it when animal's are included in a video. And yes , make a point of wearing a mask when spraying 2k , and try hard not to get it on your hands ,but you'll be fine with that limited exposure ,especially as there wouldn't have been much mist from the thick primer.🙂
thanks mate, our German Shepard has always hung out with me in the shed for the last 12yrs. your right about the mask i definitely need one. it was certainly thick....... my bad 😂
3M make a decent mask that will do the job for around $150. Well worth the investment. They are not for full time use, but for the odd bit of painting here and there but will save your health. For the engine, you need to work out your long term plans. Do you want to build this engine for just one race or for years or cruising. For my money, build the stroker and reuse what you have, but move to A9L rods. Keep it carby but go back to a Rochester. Get the compression up to the high 9s and keep the cam sensible. Even doing it this way will not get any change from $9K. Go VN heads by all means, but this will be more again. Going injection is nice, but will be more $$$ again. Each to their own but keep it mild and if you want to win drag races, put the money into a set of slicks and diff gears that you can change out after the racing is won.
thanks mate, i was looking at 3M today actually, definitely need one going fwd. engine wise - as i work away ( FIFO ) im only home 2wks a mth so am going to make it a tough Streeter with the ability to run the drag strip in a reasonable time. slicks is a great idea! the race -6 PACK CHALLENGE is a fun way to drag your home built car and maybe win a 6 pack if you beat your opponent down the 1/4. if you live in QLD come on down when it happens, will be a fun day out 👌
Is amazing how many people can do a UA-cam video on rebuilding cars and their an expert and they all follow the same word same shit I hate it when people put the animals in the video not about the animals about what you're doing to the car
thats a weird comment - dont you like dogs? thanks for watching
I reckon the stroker with decked, ported and polished stock heads with pistons for 10+:1 compression is a good budget conscious start. Summit Racing has an excellent compression ratio calculator online. Cam and single plane intake geared for max power around 6,000 rpm will probably give you a fighting chance of streetable 400-450 hp. I reckon I'll get about 400 hp from my 350 sbc with 30 over, 10.2:1 compression, dual plane intake and cammed for max power at 5,500 to be more street cruiser friendly. Love what you're doing - great to see a genuine home build to learn from, stick with it.
hey James thanks watching , glad your enjoying the journey. im learning alot too. thanks for the info on the engine build - plenty to think about when it comes to power vs user friendly. if your in the QLD area - when it comes time to race the 6pack challenge come on down. we are going to hold a fun race day with genuine HOME build cars, winner of each race gets a 6 pack
🍺👏👍🏻
By the looks of the amount of bog in those quarter panels you definitely need to learn how to weld and learn how to use a hammer and dolly those quarters look more Ripley than the ocean 🌊 there’s a certain way of doing these things and skills required in welding up the holes with out two tins of bog in quarter I cringed at what else you’ve done there the way you put your sweaty hand 🤚 on bare metal and bog before primer definitely shows you needs to learn a lot more skills before taking on a rusty holden Ute I shake my head you should maybe do a tafe course in panel and paint I suppose this is easy for me say as done my time in the trade I started panel beating at 15 years old and my father was a 45 year veteran in the trade I’ve done many a show cars and won lots of awards for using my skills mainly on customers cars any way you will learn and it’s great to see your having a go
thanks for watching mate, the whole build is a learning curve thats for sure. im sure i will be better by the end of it. having 0 experience in body work is challenging at best!! nice to hear your building some show cars - thats great, this was never intended to be a show car from the start. just a home build and a guy having a crack in the shed. theres no news paper or chicken wire in those bog fills if thats what you mean - just some shitty welds lol
A 355 strokerkit with the addition of a vortech supercharger kit. Something to think about. Cheers enjoying your channel and journey. Waiting to see the finished results. 👍✌️😎🇦🇺🍻
thanks for the tip, i will look into that option. glad your enjoying the journey
A good video to demonstrate that you have no idea
you got that right - thats why it says NEVER USED A SPRAYGUN in the description. you can only get better right. thanks for watching
How about give us an idea - would be more helpful and less dickhead
Question,, Is there a steel plate between the 308 and the gearbox. I just fitted my reco 308 back into my WB van . I dont remember there ever being a plate between , by the clutch lever has no play in it , hard up against the pressure plate.
hi there mate, I have No plate between the T350 and the 308, just the trans housing bolting directly to the block
@@goldshiftgarage Thanks for that , I dont remember there being one when I pulled it apart 3 years ago and dont have one in my parts. So obviously I have some problem with the lever or thrust bearing carrier.
Bloody awesome man, making good progress for sure! Your engine combo Idea sounds solid, Best to talk to a good engine builder for specs but the basic idea is that everything is built around what Camshaft you choose, including the Transmisson. That's what my Engine builder told me & He has been build race car engines for decades. My VL has an originial Block/Head combo, 308 Block stroked to 355, Scat Crank & rotating Assembly all balanced by Milton Engineering in SA. Can't remember the specs but it was the biggest I could go short of a Solid cam Heads & Intake ported to flow 750 CFM with a Holley 750 Double pumper Carby to suit (Flows 750 CFM) currently has an Edelbrock Torker Manifold, Trans is a fully built Turbo 350 built to hold 750 HP with a 4200 Stall converter. I'm missing heaps of details here but that's the basics. (building it for Drag Racing/Street use) at a guess it probably makes around 450 to 500 HP. Cheers, Leo.
that sounds like a powerful build! im sending my T350 away next week and see where we go after that. thanks for the engine build guides. i will take note of the details and let you know how i get on.
@@goldshiftgarage Yes & expensive ha ha
`have gun out to your side a bit more if you can this will allow you to get closer to the panel and look along it ps dont forget to make sure you have the right size needle in gun will be on the tin
thanks for the tip mate appreciate the advice, i used the 1.7mm tip with the needle that was inside the 1.7 packet ( it came with 3 nozzle sizes ) im hoping i will get better the more i do it. cheers again 👍
Mate do yourself a favour and get a decent mask when spraying as 2pack paint is extremely toxic
thanks mate, i did totally forget the mask aspect of the job.
The Gold Shift Garage FB page is now off and running, jump on and Follow for all your behind the scenes / early preview information about the upcoming 6PACK challenge race.
I dont even like cars/utes and I'm enjoying this series, loving your positive vibes Lee. Also its going to be a 2-1 QLD series.
hey there mate, glad your liking the series! UP THE BLUES -hopefully haha
great rid of the music (noise) it’s terrible
Awesome job Lee, again. Its a lot of hard work hey! Keep it going you are doing a great job, the work you have put in will allow you to EASILY WIN the 6 pack challenge!! Keep it up
hi Stuart, its hard work all right but we are heading in the right direction thankfully. oh mate bring on the 6pack challenge hahaha. i bought some engine parts this week which will be revealed in good time. its going to be fantastic. i do appreciate the support mate
👏🍺👍🏻
Haha, yeah many a time of just blankly staring at the wall wondering what to say 😂
im glad im not alone on that one, i feel like a idiot half the time hahaha
Ayyyeee! Thanks Lee for the shout out mate! I'm keen for the 6 pack challenge!! You are doing a great job on the ute, looking forward to see it back in epoxy again, UP THE BLUES!!!
GO THE BLUES!! hahaha im looking fwd to epoxy stage again too mate
Is that a map of aus on the bottom of the front left guard 😂😂 Great work so far mate shes tickin along nicely looking forward to seeing it in epoxy, bring on the next ep🤙🤙
@@braydenpatch1707 hahaha i never even noticed that one - she does look like the map of Aus. primer gun arrived today so its GO time. Glad your enjoying the journey - thanks for the support
Great work Lee, love your thinking outside the box to get things done, use of the sheeting was brilliant! Also love reading your answers to people's comments. Keep up the great work
thanks Stuart im glad your enjoying the build! yeah i was hoping the shape of the off cut was close and lucky for me it was a great fit with a little bit of tweaking & shaping. thanks for your support i really do appreciate the comments 👍
Yep that's lead on the roof join, will be some above the tail lights aswell. Most people say burn it off and use filler but I just leave it. Looking good so far, keep at it.
thanks for the info mate, appreciate it. yeah i think i will leave it also i mean its super smooth on the roof. thanks for the support - its finaly coming together
Stinking cat. Good bye.
hahaha
To much fishing not enough car work 😂😂
hahahah i wish that was the case lol
oh i cant wait mate, its looking great! haha yeah the engine build will add a buck or 2 to the build cost!
thanks mate she is certainly progressing. im preparing for the over cycle to come once i hit the engine build haha
What a fantastic car and rod scene you have in regional Qld, some amazing cars out there. Its great that you have set yourself a goal to have your ute ready for next year. Im sure you will make it!!
Yeah mate lead You should epoxy your progress as you go
thanks mate, i thought it may of been lead but wasnt 100% sure. when i get home i will re-epoxy but just ran out of time. thanks for watching
Just stumbled upon your channel I’m about to start exactly the same project I’m keen to follow your progress as I’m sure I will have to do the same. I hope my body has less rust though. Keep up the good work.
welcome aboard mate, im happy you found my channel, yeah after the sandblasting it really exposed the true body condition but im slowly chipping away and repairing / replacing. hopefully your body is a little less work than mine is 👍
Yeah the roof has lead on the joins to the frame, also bronze on the A pillars. Some used it as a filler so that might be why it’s down the rear end, don’t think that’s from manufacture.
thanks for the info mate, appreciate it. hows your build coming along?
G'day there mate, I like your work! I'm up to the same stage and using the same procedures you are, I'm just not sure if I should put the filler onto bare metal or over the epoxy? Does it really matter or just scuff the epoxy up then fill over that? Cheers! 👍🇦🇺
Don't put filler over bare metal, it won't stick to the metal and will trap moisture , apply over the apoxy primer
thanks for watching mate, i would / did put the filler over the epoxy. i did slightly scuff it but not enough to break through the epoxy. once you apply the filler & sand you can always respray over with epoxy to protect the bare metal you have rubbed off during sanding. I have learnt so much during this build.
Making great progress mate
thanks mate, slowly but surely chipping away.
this thing needs a LS and a full Haltech system
maybe one day Trav, never know whats around the corner
Great work Lee, theres no holding you back! It si coming along very nicely. Cant wait for next episode👍👍
thankyou mate, step by step its coming along. the dreaded sills are up next 🤔
Thanks heaps mate for telling us about Rare Spares, it’s gonna help a lot with my family’s Mark 1 Ford Escort.
thanks mate, yep rare spares & resto country are really good replacement part company's. they literally stock everything. thanks watching - happy you enjoyed it
Hey mate did you think about putting the rear panel back in straight rather than on a lean. Seen some people modify the wall to allow a bit of extra storage behind the seats
that would of been a great idea actually, i didnt even consider that option
Awesome man, making progress!
thanks mate, its coming along nicely
Omg rusty
Just discovered your channel the project is coming along great. Only downside is now I have to binge watch your progress The work your doing is fantastic, all the rare spares stuff is a good fit.
thanks for watching mate, its slowly getting there. yeah the rare spares panels are a good option. welcome aboard n hope you enjoy the upcoming videos
Sorry to say it but I think the rust will return, rust converter will only slow it down nice project
i think your right mate, hopefully it see's out my days 👍
''The more you unpick, the more rust you find'' 😂 haha we can probably all relate to those words!
hi mate, im definitely not unpicking anymore panels 🤣 looking fwd to the end of the rust repairs
Hard to tell from the video, but did you not weld the whole way around the floor pans?