Відео

Looks original, not molested full of bog still mint ready for resto by a professional panel beater even still has the tyre gate sitting in the spare wheel well ❤

Hi there mate good to see you’re having a go and learning but what im seeing here is there is the wrong way to learn or more so the hard way to learn being in the trade as a qualified panel beater I learned from my father who was one of greats in trade for decades I picked up hammer and dolly at 15 years old and done my trade in five years at tec I’m 45 now I was Advanced because of my father I was lucky your learning the hard way with out the right tools firstly that welder is crap 💩 get yourself a Lincoln mig welder with out all the over the top settings on it you should be learning with point 6 wire and only thinking about wire speed and heat control simplified those little shity welders with all the dial’s under the sun are confusing you need a proper size metal folder some one to show you hand forming skills with how to shape and shrink and stretch panel steel into different shapes and angles how to use the correct hammer dolly techniques also oxy heating and welding and lastly tig … first timers mistakes I see you trying to weld a new section of steel into a already rusted pitted lower quarter section you need to think bigger remake the whole lower section and most likely once you cut the other section off you’ll find the inner needs replacing as well rust repairs is all about getting back into clean metal again and hand forming of the new section once you learn heat control with a mig and how to do proper welding sequence how to hold the new section in place properly you’ll learn lots quicker anyway I wish I could show you how to repair the bottom sections of your quarter panels on one side and then go step by step with you on the other side it’s frustrating for me to watch you with out being able to help you my only other advice I can give you is go do a tafe course in panel beating you’ll learn things much easier from a tradesman technique and approach things differently

Poor old Ute had diy wanks trying hard on it and now it’s happening again to the poor thing 😂😂😂

Most panel beaters in the older stages of life die from emphysema, lung disease

Square cuts in doing rust repairs is a no no as it creates stress pulls in the corners of the welds . Do round corners

So looks like you’ve missed the opportunity to dress up all the dents in the box section and weld the Torno cover pinholes up while the back seat panel was removed the other issues I see here is you clean all the seams up first and remove old sealant epoxy prime it once it’s clean then you seam seal the joints then colour goes over it once it’s dried or wet on wet with epoxy and colour top coat so it can never rust again in the joints

the old rare spares floor pans last few I’ve done in that model holden is put the sill edge side in the folder and turn it down so it’s the same as the original ones not facing up the wrong way and also seam weld the cut lines so they look closer to the original ones and you can’t weld them in proper with the chassis still in the way .. and in most cases there will be rust on the cab mounts and the chassis were the rubber sits the main issue I’ve found with diy guys is they overlap the floor pans by way to much as a trade qualified panel beater I always use a light weight jack pushing under the dash down on top of the pan with a small block of wood to hold and mark the new section in place so the pan is actually plug welded proper to the front cab mounts as the the dodgy ones I’ve seen from underneath on nearly every single HQZJB have a yuck ten mill gap with no welds between the pan and cab mounts anyway hope I’ve helped you with my knowledge

Before commencing with the duco perhaps consider using a Water Filter between your spray gun and compressor to isolate the condensation in the compressed air and I'd be putting that Air Regulator together with the Water Filter at the compressor end to lighten up the spray gun making it less cumbersome

Awesome work Lee. As many have said here, Dont forget your mask! You are showing a lot of us that you really can do the job, it just takes time and patience and the end result can always be improved next time. BUT at least you have made a start and HAD A GO!

Take the good comments and throw away the rest! But yes, get a good mask! Sundstrom i think its called comes in a square container for around $120-$150! Ive had a few 308s and getting anything over 280hp is unrealistic to be honest! It can be done with an insane amount of money but id go with a 355 kit, with the heads you already have pprted and polished with stainless L34 size valves and k-line guides to run the unleaded! An edelbrock dual plane manifold with a brock spec quadrajet, a large cap bosch distributor and have it re-curved! Run thermo fans also, youll get a better throttle response and no vibration! A good set of pacemakers ( tuned if theyre available?) Go a decent quality cam with a rev range between 3800- 5700rpm! 308s dont like much more than that anyways! Id go with a cam that's as big as you can go with hydraulic lifters! JP OIL PUMP, ( YOU DONT HAVE TO GO HIGH VOLUME, ITS OVER RATED!! ) POWERBOND BALLANCER, ROLLMASTER DOUBLE ROW TIMING CHAIN SET, go with an electric fuel pump as the mechanical wont supply fuel when youre really needing it!!! Dont do any of the oil block off mods either! Waste of time!! Choose your cam according to if you're running an auto or manual too! Keep up the good work 👍🇦🇺

Unlike some people, I like it when animal's are included in a video. And yes , make a point of wearing a mask when spraying 2k , and try hard not to get it on your hands ,but you'll be fine with that limited exposure ,especially as there wouldn't have been much mist from the thick primer.🙂

3M make a decent mask that will do the job for around $150. Well worth the investment. They are not for full time use, but for the odd bit of painting here and there but will save your health. For the engine, you need to work out your long term plans. Do you want to build this engine for just one race or for years or cruising. For my money, build the stroker and reuse what you have, but move to A9L rods. Keep it carby but go back to a Rochester. Get the compression up to the high 9s and keep the cam sensible. Even doing it this way will not get any change from $9K. Go VN heads by all means, but this will be more again. Going injection is nice, but will be more $$$ again. Each to their own but keep it mild and if you want to win drag races, put the money into a set of slicks and diff gears that you can change out after the racing is won.

Is amazing how many people can do a UA-cam video on rebuilding cars and their an expert and they all follow the same word same shit I hate it when people put the animals in the video not about the animals about what you're doing to the car

I reckon the stroker with decked, ported and polished stock heads with pistons for 10+:1 compression is a good budget conscious start. Summit Racing has an excellent compression ratio calculator online. Cam and single plane intake geared for max power around 6,000 rpm will probably give you a fighting chance of streetable 400-450 hp. I reckon I'll get about 400 hp from my 350 sbc with 30 over, 10.2:1 compression, dual plane intake and cammed for max power at 5,500 to be more street cruiser friendly. Love what you're doing - great to see a genuine home build to learn from, stick with it.

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By the looks of the amount of bog in those quarter panels you definitely need to learn how to weld and learn how to use a hammer and dolly those quarters look more Ripley than the ocean 🌊 there’s a certain way of doing these things and skills required in welding up the holes with out two tins of bog in quarter I cringed at what else you’ve done there the way you put your sweaty hand 🤚 on bare metal and bog before primer definitely shows you needs to learn a lot more skills before taking on a rusty holden Ute I shake my head you should maybe do a tafe course in panel and paint I suppose this is easy for me say as done my time in the trade I started panel beating at 15 years old and my father was a 45 year veteran in the trade I’ve done many a show cars and won lots of awards for using my skills mainly on customers cars any way you will learn and it’s great to see your having a go

A 355 strokerkit with the addition of a vortech supercharger kit. Something to think about. Cheers enjoying your channel and journey. Waiting to see the finished results. 👍✌️😎🇦🇺🍻

A good video to demonstrate that you have no idea

Question,, Is there a steel plate between the 308 and the gearbox. I just fitted my reco 308 back into my WB van . I dont remember there ever being a plate between , by the clutch lever has no play in it , hard up against the pressure plate.

Bloody awesome man, making good progress for sure! Your engine combo Idea sounds solid, Best to talk to a good engine builder for specs but the basic idea is that everything is built around what Camshaft you choose, including the Transmisson. That's what my Engine builder told me & He has been build race car engines for decades. My VL has an originial Block/Head combo, 308 Block stroked to 355, Scat Crank & rotating Assembly all balanced by Milton Engineering in SA. Can't remember the specs but it was the biggest I could go short of a Solid cam Heads & Intake ported to flow 750 CFM with a Holley 750 Double pumper Carby to suit (Flows 750 CFM) currently has an Edelbrock Torker Manifold, Trans is a fully built Turbo 350 built to hold 750 HP with a 4200 Stall converter. I'm missing heaps of details here but that's the basics. (building it for Drag Racing/Street use) at a guess it probably makes around 450 to 500 HP. Cheers, Leo.

`have gun out to your side a bit more if you can this will allow you to get closer to the panel and look along it ps dont forget to make sure you have the right size needle in gun will be on the tin

Mate do yourself a favour and get a decent mask when spraying as 2pack paint is extremely toxic

The Gold Shift Garage FB page is now off and running, jump on and Follow for all your behind the scenes / early preview information about the upcoming 6PACK challenge race.

I dont even like cars/utes and I'm enjoying this series, loving your positive vibes Lee. Also its going to be a 2-1 QLD series.

great rid of the music (noise) it’s terrible

Awesome job Lee, again. Its a lot of hard work hey! Keep it going you are doing a great job, the work you have put in will allow you to EASILY WIN the 6 pack challenge!! Keep it up

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Haha, yeah many a time of just blankly staring at the wall wondering what to say 😂

Ayyyeee! Thanks Lee for the shout out mate! I'm keen for the 6 pack challenge!! You are doing a great job on the ute, looking forward to see it back in epoxy again, UP THE BLUES!!!

Great work Lee, love your thinking outside the box to get things done, use of the sheeting was brilliant! Also love reading your answers to people's comments. Keep up the great work

Yep that's lead on the roof join, will be some above the tail lights aswell. Most people say burn it off and use filler but I just leave it. Looking good so far, keep at it.

Stinking cat. Good bye.

To much fishing not enough car work 😂😂

oh i cant wait mate, its looking great! haha yeah the engine build will add a buck or 2 to the build cost!

What a fantastic car and rod scene you have in regional Qld, some amazing cars out there. Its great that you have set yourself a goal to have your ute ready for next year. Im sure you will make it!!

Yeah mate lead You should epoxy your progress as you go

Just stumbled upon your channel I’m about to start exactly the same project I’m keen to follow your progress as I’m sure I will have to do the same. I hope my body has less rust though. Keep up the good work.

Yeah the roof has lead on the joins to the frame, also bronze on the A pillars. Some used it as a filler so that might be why it’s down the rear end, don’t think that’s from manufacture.

G'day there mate, I like your work! I'm up to the same stage and using the same procedures you are, I'm just not sure if I should put the filler onto bare metal or over the epoxy? Does it really matter or just scuff the epoxy up then fill over that? Cheers! 👍🇦🇺

Making great progress mate

this thing needs a LS and a full Haltech system

Great work Lee, theres no holding you back! It si coming along very nicely. Cant wait for next episode👍👍

Thanks heaps mate for telling us about Rare Spares, it’s gonna help a lot with my family’s Mark 1 Ford Escort.

Hey mate did you think about putting the rear panel back in straight rather than on a lean. Seen some people modify the wall to allow a bit of extra storage behind the seats

Awesome man, making progress!

Omg rusty

Just discovered your channel the project is coming along great. Only downside is now I have to binge watch your progress The work your doing is fantastic, all the rare spares stuff is a good fit.

Sorry to say it but I think the rust will return, rust converter will only slow it down nice project

''The more you unpick, the more rust you find'' 😂 haha we can probably all relate to those words!

Hard to tell from the video, but did you not weld the whole way around the floor pans?