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If it is that tall, maybe it is a different variety. I don't think I've ever heard of Gerardi getting over 12 or so feet tall. Of course the most important thing is it tastes good!

@@GardeningwithZiggy it's definitely Ghirardi, fr Whitman

@@UFCtrumpsboxing Well if it is from Lucille it is almost definitely correct.

@@GardeningwithZiggy just spoke with Lucille, confirmed it was grafted and these are too thick of trunks to be Girardi, they are Russian rootstocks that sprouted and grew tall. I'll have to cut down which breaks my heart. It did serve good as rainwater absorber. Will have to buy a new Girardi.

@@UFCtrumpsboxing Oof, sorry to hear you have to cut them down. I had some suckering on the Gerardi rootstock the first year, so I can see how it happens if you don't pinch them off right away. Good luck with the new ones.

Rabbits can be a misery. They've pretty much destroyed one of my strawberry beds.

Great. I think you'll really enjoy them.

Sorry I can't send plant material outside the US.

​@@GardeningwithZiggy are there nursery's that can send plants to Europe? If yes can you recommend a name?

This variety stays dwarf, so doesn't require much pruning and is tightly branched and budded so provides a huge crop for its size. I mostly prune off cuttings to use for scion wood, or crossing branches, etc.

Yup. I knew right after I recorded I probably said it wrong. My apologies.

I hope they work out for you. It is a good time of year to trade for or buy more! You can never have enough fig trees.

@GardeningwithZiggy It's difficult. I'm in Thailand. I'll be ecstatic if I get a few to live and thrive. Thanks.

Yes, I refer to the type as herbicidal maniacs. Sorry you are dealing with it more than once. Fortunately my community garden added a bylaw that forbids use of herbicides since there had been a few problems with drift. I hope your plants recover.

Glad you found it useful. I usually get better fruit set hand pollinated for the first few weeks to month of flowering and then after that there are enough flowers to keep things moving. I grew the white one this year as well - very juicy and tasty, not very bitter. Have a great season.

I have found them at a few local Asian grocery stores (I'm in Northern Virginia), usually in late fall to early winter. If you find them, it is good to ask them if they have any in back, since those haven't been sitting out drying - sometimes they are out for a few days and are already a bit on the dry side by the time they get to the stores. Good luck.

Thanks so much for letting me know that helps. I think it is really important to always show results if you can. I see so many gardening videos for various "tips and tricks" where people never show the result. Sometimes I feel like people don't post results if something doesn't work out, but by doing that you are just wasting other peoples time and money if they follow you.

It might work okay, but I think I'd put a little plastic from a bag or something over first and then put the painters tape over that to hold it tightly in place. I think the tape itself might be made of paper and possibly let some moisture out.

Nice. Mine are definitely bigger this year and I expect they'll continue to get a bit bigger as the tree matures.

Yes. Since I have plenty of persimmon psyllids in the area and see that damage every year I'm quite familiar with it. This is different and is mostly curling and dieback of the leaf tips. It is something called mouse ear disease and it appears to be easily corrected by a foliar feeding with Nickel (the primary thing it is lacking). It is almost definitely related to growing in a container and I will be planting that one out this fall so hopefully that will take care of it. I didn't see any concise write up on the issue in persimmons, but here is more about it on pecans extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C893&title=mouse-ear-of-pecan

Yes, one of the 7 coolest varieties.

Thanks. They make me happy.

Yes, much of the antioxidants are in the skin. So you need to eat the whole grape, except for the seeds to get the full health benefits. But I find the entire grape delicious!

Thanks. I hope you do well with your new plants. Nothing like walking out of the house and eating all those delicious berries you grow yourself.

Hi. Sounds like a good candidate for air layering and a very worthy cause. I would go ahead and try to air layer off the reverted trunk. As you are probably seeing, the reverted growth will be more vigorous than the variagated, so it may begin to overtake and weaken the variegated side. They are very tough plants and the way I did it without cutting off a ring of bark there is really very little risk although it takes a bit longer. They send out roots very easily and I even have on the ones I air layered that has sent down roots into the soil from lower branches just from being in the humidity outside this summer. The big thing is to make sure you get any of the reverted growth, make sure you are cutting to just below where you see any of the original variegated plant so you are sure you have removed everything that is reverted. This is why I went below the top of the variegated growth and took that top variegated piece off as an air layer as well. Hopefully that is obvious on your plant. Good luck with your tree.

@@GardeningwithZiggy Thank you so much for replying! I'm in a greenhouse program for college and learned about girdling in plant biology so I the idea of completely girdling a tree scares me 😂 I like tour way better, and thanks again for the great idea of layering the reverted section. You probably saved me some heartache if things ended up going wrong. Your knowledge is appreciated! Thank you!

Hi. Sorry you got hit with herbicide drift. My plants mostly recovered and I still got a crop, although they never really grew as strongly that year. Hopefully yours will recover, but I really can't say since it depends how much herbicide they got and the type as well. Good luck!

Unfortunately I think food would just attract more. I do have a small pond and several container water plants (mostly lotus) that the squirrels and birds drink from. But the majority of the neighbors just have lawn, a few maples and foundation plants (azaleas, etc.), so besides the ones that live in my 2 oaks, the squirrels literally come from side yards and across the street. So I think feeding them just keeps them in the habit of looking to our house for the buffet.

Thanks. I won'ot have blackberry plants of these two varieties, but Indiana Berry is a good place to buy them from for the spring. www.indianaberry.com/blackberries/summer-bearing.html

@@GardeningwithZiggy Thank you for the information.

Yes, that is the correct way to say it and I should know better having talked to many southerners about their love of "dines". I'm from further north originally and it sometimes just comes out the wrong way when I'm not thinking about it. Glad I'm further south now and can grow these delicious treats!

Paulk is the variety

@@GardeningwithZiggy haven't heard.of that variety. Will check it out. Thinking about doing some grafting to my vines

Sorry to hear your are suffering with their damage. Good thing they don't come every year!

Hi Dijon. I have a vague plan of planting out a small pawpaw orchard if I can find a piece or property that works and isn't too crazy expensive... if that doesn't happy I'll probably sell them. I like the idea of growing a seedling orchard (with the best genetics of course), since there can be a lot of loss of vigor and later rejection of grafts which you don't have to worry about with seedlings.

@@GardeningwithZiggy Very cool. By a “not crazy expensive” piece of land I assume you mean *not in NOVA* haha. I’ve been looking for a rental plot myself without luck, & just started grafting onto wild/public trees instead. If you decide to sell any, where would I find them??

Same

@@DijonGuite Yes, land has gotten crazy expensive. If I don't figure that out and decide to sell off this batch I'll be sure to post something on Growingfruit.org

Most made it, although I had to prune a lot of damaged branches out. I lost a young persimmon above the graft and decided to remove 2 of my very dwarf apple trees since they were losing so many of their small branches and didn't have the vigor to make a quick recovery. Everything else is doing fine and I picked over 100 apricots off the one in this video when it was young and heavily damaged by the cicadas. Good luck! I certainly one miss them for the next 13 or 14 years.

Lol, you are not wrong. That was just my "starter trellis" to get the arms developed and then it surprised me by putting on such a nice crop. I've added horizontal poles between the t-posts for this year to support the crop, which looks to be 25lbs or so, but eventually I'll have to go much more heavy duty since these muscadines are capable of 50-60lbs of fruit per vine which I might hit next year.

Thanks!

Keep us updated all season long! New subscriber 😎

I see that you are in Virginia as you stated in the description.

@@rajeshtintu4966 Yes, I'm in Virginia, right outside Washington DC (zone 7B), but the tree in the video is in West Virginia, zone 6B at my in-laws place. For time of year, I'm still grafting some now, but basically as soon as I'm seeing first leaves and the days are hitting 80 degrees with some frequency I start grafting persimmons and pawpaws. Yes, definitely keep the scions refrigerated prior to grafting. I've found persimmon scions a bit more prone to drying out that some other fruit trees, so I sometimes wrap at least the ends with parafilm before putting them into a ziplock in the fridge. A very important thing particularly with persimmons is to keep any growth from the rootstock from budding out or the rootstock will take the energy and let the graft die. I got a bit lucky with this tree because it was a larger vigorous seedling, so it was able to keep going even when I wasn't there and some rootstock shoots came out. But everytime I got all the rootstock shoots off I'd see the grafts growing faster. Good luck.

That is interesting. I previously grew Prime-Ark Freedom and did notice some primocanes popping up pretty far from the crown as well. I've talked to a number of Ponca growers who are seeing what I describe happening with Ponca and there are a few others noting the behavior in the comments here. Is there any chance yours isn't actually true to type? I know a lot of mislabelled Ponca have been sold, probably to take advantage of the early demand when there was a lot of excitement about them coming out. I just looked at your blackberry plant update from a few weeks ago and your plants don't look like Ponca to me - specifically Ponca has very dense growth and primocanes are a bit delayed in growing compared to other varieties but yours look pretty advanced early in the season. The internode length on your primocanes is also much longer than I see on my new canes.

Thanks 😅

Thanks. I can't really tell you how close you can plant to a house, since I never investigated that. But any I have seen sold are grafted, so the base rootstock will usually be the same as the wild mulberries - usually a hybrid of Alba and Rubra I think. So the roots would probably grow in the same manner as those.

Usually May in most places, but depends on your zone. They need warmth to callous (heal) the graft, so I like to see daytime temps hitting 80s and nights in the 60s. I'm in zone 7B and our weather is just starting to be warm enough right now (April 29th), but that is early for us this year.

Before planting, I dug in a lot of composted horse manure and there is generally good fertility in my soil. I may have fertilized a few times (probably just scattering some tomatotone or similar that I had for my veggies), but nothing consistently. Besides fertilizing, if you haven't already, you might try top dressing with manure and then adding woodchip mulch on top which will break down and feed the soil.

Sorry to hear you are having trouble getting them going. Severing the root one year and then digging them the next can help. Maybe also try keeping them in a pot in the shade the first year to baby them as they build their new root system.

I'm in zone 7B (although this tree was at my inlaws in 6B), so time of year will depend on where you are. Persimmons need some heat to properly callous and heal, so I don't graft persimmons until we are getting high 70s most days. So in 7B that means early May, possibly late May. I'll keep grafting through June. I believe this tree was grafted in early June of 2023.

Sounds like a good experiment. Let us know how they do for you. I would think about keeping them in full sun Spring and Fall, but move them to mostly shade in the summer heat.

Yes. I left some on and had them even riper and they were dull at that point and sweeter. The problem is the squirrels, raccoons, etc. love them as well, so sometimes harvesting at least some a bit early is better than getting none later on.

Yes, they are self fertile. So all you would need is one bush to get fruit.

@@GardeningwithZiggy Thanks for the reply. Put mine in the soil yesterday

I'll try to do an update late spring or early summer when we can see how the varieties are doing and if there is any fruit set this year.

@@GardeningwithZiggy that would be awesome, I’ll try to follow your channel please try to tag me if you can. I’m planning to graft my American rootstocks with 4 different Asian scions once they are leaved out. Last year I tried early and none took. (The scion was off eBay though, this year I got scions from local sources and a few from cooler regions.) Thanks again for the help!

I see you found it, but for anyone else looking the 3 month update is here ua-cam.com/video/hEWHN6VQLAY/v-deo.htmlsi=5aLqRVBK2xTPXrPT