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Sorry but ,I no longer have the Pickup Truck ,or I could of possibly done that sorry again

@@utsports Thank you for your time. Your appreciated.

@@midnightwaves01 Your welcome ,'and thanks for your question

Hello,You will need to get a Alemite or Zerk fitting ,and match your Tap to the tread pitch of the Alemite or Zerk fitting that you purchase I researched. and most common for Automotive is/are ALEMITE ¼"-28 Taper Thread but there are different size Alemites or Zerk fittings, again it depends on what size you purchase ,And the size that you purchase at the automotive store they will probably be able to tell you tread pitch size hope thet information may help you

@@utsports thanks

That is good. and if you ever need to add grease again you can just add through the Zerk fitting without removing the Driveshaft make the process much easier,and faster

No. not at all. because when one drills out the Steel Slip Yoke the material Steel removed is about equal to the Zerk fitting

And,also, I have had Zero problems with the Slip Yoke binding, due to dried out Grease since I did this fix

@@utsports Good to know.

@@utsports I wasn't sure about the weight difference. I figured if it were out of balance, it would be minimal. Thanks for clarifying.

If I remember correctly the Door Latch,.has a little Switch that is attached to it,And that switch allows the Dome Light to come on, when the Door is open, ,and if by chance the Switch has malfunctioned ,so that the switch is making contact and sending 12volts to the Dome light even thought the Door is closed that could be your problem ,but not for sure hope this information may help you thanks for your question

@@utsports Can removing the fuse keep the battery from draining until the switch can be tested or replaced? Currently pulling the positive cable.

@@alwilkerson77 Well if the reason the Battery is discharging, is due to the interior light, or the switch then if you pull the Fuse that controls that that should stop the voltage draw from the battery and keep the battery from discharging ,but you could have another problem as well causing the battery to have a draw and thus discharging the Battery,You can like you said disconnect the Battery Terminal,and that will keep the Battery from discharging, but you will want to disconnect the Negative Terminal instead of the Positive Terminal Hope this information helps you thanks for your question

@@utsports Thank you for your swift reply! And yes, we have a Ford Windstar, and this seems to be a common problem. I really just needed a quick fix as my boy is currently driving it and doesn't have a lot of "working" mechanical knowledge yet. The only downfall to pulling the fuse is that the dash lights are on the same circuit. Headlights still work though...so we'll just have to make due until our appt. next week. I didn't want him to have to keep getting jumps or pulling the cable. Also, could you briefly tell me why we should pull the negative cable instead of the positive? Pardon my ignorance...I truly only thought the negative was the "ground" for the battery/car in general but didn't actually interrupt the flow of power. Your wisdom would be most helpful as I am a female in training 😅

@@alwilkerson77 The Negative Terminal of the Battery is the ground for the vehicle, and should be removed first.The reasoning behind this is to prevent ,or neutralize any possibility of accidently causing a short ,so inversely if one was to disconnect the Positive Terminal instead of the Negative Terminal and you were working around the Battery simultaneously touched the Vehicles Metal body and Positive Terminal with a Wrench or Screw Driver that would cause a short I hope I was able to explain the reasonings behind disconnecting the Negative Terminal first thanks for your question, and I hope the person, or persons working on your vehicle ,will have success in finding the voltage draw thanks again for your question

The dome light

What do u mean it won’t shift like transmission won’t shift

When you Drill the hole for the Zerk/ Alemite Fiting ,the Metal removed is about equal to the weight of the Zerk/ Alemite Fiting .Also I have not experienced any vibration from adding the Zerk/ Alemite Fiting .I still have the F150 in the Video,and to date, I haven't had anymore problems with the clunk noise,The reason for the clunk noise,or noise, was caused by the original Grease drying out,and thus causing a Metal, to Metal rubbing condition,which caused the clunk noise ,but thanks for your question

Your welcome,

john oktavec was wondering the same thing

I sold the Truck a while back ,so I don't have access to check the power Wires going to the Dome light.However I think,but I'm not for sure that the Wires travel up through the Windshield Pillar,so you could check, by removing the Pillar Trim cover ,and see.And, if you can see the Wires,then you could test those Wires to see if they are for the Dome light,and if so ,you could just tap into those Wires and run your tap down to power your lower lights.I hope I was of some help to you,with you,and thanks for your question .

@@utsports These people don't know the difference between a short and a bad connection.

@@utsports These people doesn´ t know difference between a short and a bad connection.

These people don´t the difference between a short and a bad connection

117k? Hell that's great. My 2013 F150 pinion bearing started leaking like a sieve at 49k and had to be replaced. Couldnt believe it. Never towed anything and never overloaded the bed.

Come on, dude. Don't be a hater, I have both Ford and Toyota. I enjoyed them both.

What you could do,is compare your Drive Shaft, to the one in the Video { of my F150}, and determine if they are the same design,but knowing that your Truck is a 2010 F150 they may have made slight design changes, to the Drive Shaft ,but even with any slight changes,you should still be able to perform this Slip Yoke Grease fitting modification. Because your Drive Shafts Slip Yoke will still have a gap in the Yoke for the Spline to travel/flex/move, in one direction and/or the other,And so, when drilling your port for the Grease fitting,just try to drill as close to the end of the gap as possible ? I drilled mine close to the welded plate for the U-Joint. I hope my thinking ,may help you, and thanks, for your question .

that my be the battery saver relay,(number 2,)thats taking action, once the 30sec timer isnt work...no?

If your F150 ,has a Slip Yoke ,and you have the clunk noise ,due to the Grease becoming dryed out and causing a no lubrication for the Slip Yoke spline to slide within the Yoke ,then the installation of a Zerk/Alemite fitting, and adding Grease should fix your problem, as long as that is your problem,and not something else PS This process fixed/solved my problem

Yes I have the same issue, both during initial acceleration and just before coming to complete stop. Interestingly, the noise is worst when I abruptly come to stop and less when I slowly come to stop. I would think most if not all Ford F150 family have the same drive shaft configuration. Mine has 2 pieces however. Right next to the joint, I see a boot and I assume it is where the spline connects to the drive shaft to the differential.

Yes,that noise is probably.and more that likely from the Slip Yoke binding due to lack of lubricatuon,and basically that was what my F150 was doing

I have not noticed any balancing issuse at all,and I still have the same Truck,also to date ,I have not added any more Grease to the Slip Yoke.and the Drive Shafts Slip Yoke has no noise or clunk at all .PS When you Drill the port for the Zerk fitting ,the Metal removed is probubly cllose to the weight of the Zerk fitting,so that should counter the weight loss problem,again I have not hade any issues at all and thanks for you question .

less friction

No problems at all,and I have not had to add any Grease either