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utsports
Приєднався 16 чер 2007
Ford F150 Truck Drive shaft Slip Yoke noise clunk
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Відео
Heat Pump Split System Drain Pan Cleaning and Flush
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I created this video with the UA-cam Video Editor (ua-cam.com/users/editor)
Sanding Windshield Scratch (part 2)
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Sanding Windshield Scratch on Jeep CJ7 Link to purchase Cerium Oxide: www.amazon.com/CRL-Cerium-Oxide-One-Pound/dp/B000KZWDTG Part 1 VIDEO: ua-cam.com/video/ne3OhIH15R0/v-deo.html Equipment and materials used VIDEO: ua-cam.com/video/dBPV6jL_56M/v-deo.html Finished product VIDEO: ua-cam.com/video/mFd1-f6B8SE/v-deo.html
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In this video I showed you the equipment and materials that were used to sand the windshield scratch in the Jeep CJ7. Link to purchase the Cerium Oxide: www.amazon.com/CRL-Cerium-Oxide-One-Pound/dp/B000KZWDTG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1354161708&sr=8-1&keywords=Cerium Oxide Various grit size wet or dry sandpaper can be purchased at Amazon: www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=aps&field...
Sanding Windshield Scratch (part 1)
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Sanding Windshield Scratch on a Jeep CJ7 Link to purchase the Cerium Oxide: www.amazon.com/CRL-Cerium-Oxide-One-Pound/dp/B000KZWDTG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1354161708&sr=8-1&keywords=Cerium Oxide Part 2 VIDEO: ua-cam.com/video/kkxfV4TtCZg/v-deo.html Equipment and materials used VIDEO: ua-cam.com/video/dBPV6jL_56M/v-deo.html Finished product VIDEO: ua-cam.com/video/mFd1-f6B8SE/v-deo.html
Sanding Windshield Scratch (Finished product)
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After I finished sanding out the scratch that was in the windshield. Link to purchase Cerium Oxide: www.amazon.com/CRL-Cerium-Oxide-One-Pound/dp/B000KZWDTG Part 1 VIDEO: ua-cam.com/video/ne3OhIH15R0/v-deo.html Part 2 VIDEO: ua-cam.com/video/kkxfV4TtCZg/v-deo.html Equipment and materials used VIDEO: ua-cam.com/video/dBPV6jL_56M/v-deo.html
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Removing remains after cutting down tree
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I had the same problem with my interior light not working.I pulled the bulb out and the metal end caps were loose on both ends of the bulb.So I had a extra bulb on hand cleaned bulb and connections put bulb in and it's working fine.I got lucky before I started to get into problem deeper.
Your videos are amazing! If you like farming or harvesting videos, I look forward to having you visit my channel to have relaxing moments together!
Thank you sir, that saved me a ton more time and a lot of headache
Do u have a video showing how to get interior lights to work
Absolutely not even helpful ur jus sitting there talking an talking
thanks for sharing your discovery!!!
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I hope this works, been driving me nuts
Yes. Please do a video showing everyone how to fix it.
Sorry but ,I no longer have the Pickup Truck ,or I could of possibly done that sorry again
@@utsports Thank you for your time. Your appreciated.
@@midnightwaves01 Your welcome ,'and thanks for your question
What size metal screw and fitting does one use?
Hello,You will need to get a Alemite or Zerk fitting ,and match your Tap to the tread pitch of the Alemite or Zerk fitting that you purchase I researched. and most common for Automotive is/are ALEMITE ¼"-28 Taper Thread but there are different size Alemites or Zerk fittings, again it depends on what size you purchase ,And the size that you purchase at the automotive store they will probably be able to tell you tread pitch size hope thet information may help you
@@utsports thanks
This pretty much describes my issue with my 99 Ranger. 59,000 miles. When you would take off, or stop, frequently felt like you were hit in the rear end, and a slight bump type sound. Took shaft off, cleaned with Brake clean, and put PTFE grease on splines, and interior of the shaft. Thought the u-joints might be bad, hence removing the shaft. If it starts up again, I put the grease zerk in like this video. Here's my grease purchase: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FM9BQFM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That is good. and if you ever need to add grease again you can just add through the Zerk fitting without removing the Driveshaft make the process much easier,and faster
Did the zerk cause the shaft to become out of balance?
No. not at all. because when one drills out the Steel Slip Yoke the material Steel removed is about equal to the Zerk fitting
And,also, I have had Zero problems with the Slip Yoke binding, due to dried out Grease since I did this fix
@@utsports Good to know.
@@utsports I wasn't sure about the weight difference. I figured if it were out of balance, it would be minimal. Thanks for clarifying.
Nice
The original owner on my truck had reinstalled the light upside down so dome was on wrong wire making dome was always on. He also used wrong length screws. If the screws are too long, the light grounds itself making it always stay on.
My exterior light above the rear window won’t shut off the truck is new to me I can’t find a switch for it and it kills my battery every time any suggestions??
If I remember correctly the Door Latch,.has a little Switch that is attached to it,And that switch allows the Dome Light to come on, when the Door is open, ,and if by chance the Switch has malfunctioned ,so that the switch is making contact and sending 12volts to the Dome light even thought the Door is closed that could be your problem ,but not for sure hope this information may help you thanks for your question
@@utsports Can removing the fuse keep the battery from draining until the switch can be tested or replaced? Currently pulling the positive cable.
@@alwilkerson77 Well if the reason the Battery is discharging, is due to the interior light, or the switch then if you pull the Fuse that controls that that should stop the voltage draw from the battery and keep the battery from discharging ,but you could have another problem as well causing the battery to have a draw and thus discharging the Battery,You can like you said disconnect the Battery Terminal,and that will keep the Battery from discharging, but you will want to disconnect the Negative Terminal instead of the Positive Terminal Hope this information helps you thanks for your question
@@utsports Thank you for your swift reply! And yes, we have a Ford Windstar, and this seems to be a common problem. I really just needed a quick fix as my boy is currently driving it and doesn't have a lot of "working" mechanical knowledge yet. The only downfall to pulling the fuse is that the dash lights are on the same circuit. Headlights still work though...so we'll just have to make due until our appt. next week. I didn't want him to have to keep getting jumps or pulling the cable. Also, could you briefly tell me why we should pull the negative cable instead of the positive? Pardon my ignorance...I truly only thought the negative was the "ground" for the battery/car in general but didn't actually interrupt the flow of power. Your wisdom would be most helpful as I am a female in training 😅
@@alwilkerson77 The Negative Terminal of the Battery is the ground for the vehicle, and should be removed first.The reasoning behind this is to prevent ,or neutralize any possibility of accidently causing a short ,so inversely if one was to disconnect the Positive Terminal instead of the Negative Terminal and you were working around the Battery simultaneously touched the Vehicles Metal body and Positive Terminal with a Wrench or Screw Driver that would cause a short I hope I was able to explain the reasonings behind disconnecting the Negative Terminal first thanks for your question, and I hope the person, or persons working on your vehicle ,will have success in finding the voltage draw thanks again for your question
And anoyin dingdong door open. I know when door is open
I want to turn it off with the door open sometimes how do i add switch
The dome light
my 1999 f350 the same but the next fuse over(the gem fuse).dome light,wipers and couldnt shift till the dome light works,thank you!!!!
What do u mean it won’t shift like transmission won’t shift
Thank you I'm having the same problem
Mine keeps staying on. Not the one where you open the door and the middle one comes on. But the two lights that have the manual switches. I don’t know how.
Dont that throw your hoohaa off balance? Make a buzz instead of a clunk.. right? Good idea.. id put another one directly acrosst from it.. i got the joint with a grease fittn on it too,,,
When you Drill the hole for the Zerk/ Alemite Fiting ,the Metal removed is about equal to the weight of the Zerk/ Alemite Fiting .Also I have not experienced any vibration from adding the Zerk/ Alemite Fiting .I still have the F150 in the Video,and to date, I haven't had anymore problems with the clunk noise,The reason for the clunk noise,or noise, was caused by the original Grease drying out,and thus causing a Metal, to Metal rubbing condition,which caused the clunk noise ,but thanks for your question
Got the same truck and same damn issue. Thanks man much help
Thank you very much, it worked on my crew cab 2006 ford f150 5.4L 2wd. I paid less than $20 for the stuff on amazon.
Your welcome,
ua-cam.com/video/-HnCLceZQjY/v-deo.html La solución
It would be nice if Ford made the wiring diagrams more accessible. What was the reason for this?
Great video 👍!!! Will this work on Excursion rear drive shaft ?
You are the man
isn't it off balance now?
john oktavec was wondering the same thing
Great vid. Worked like a charm.
My 97 F350, the light won't go off! Just need to know which fuse to pull
Do you know what wire in the dash / sill I would tap into if I wanted to add footwell lighting so it comes on / off with the domelight?
I sold the Truck a while back ,so I don't have access to check the power Wires going to the Dome light.However I think,but I'm not for sure that the Wires travel up through the Windshield Pillar,so you could check, by removing the Pillar Trim cover ,and see.And, if you can see the Wires,then you could test those Wires to see if they are for the Dome light,and if so ,you could just tap into those Wires and run your tap down to power your lower lights.I hope I was of some help to you,with you,and thanks for your question .
@@utsports These people don't know the difference between a short and a bad connection.
@@utsports These people doesn´ t know difference between a short and a bad connection.
These people don´t the difference between a short and a bad connection
Pure fantasy, can not happen like that, pulling on a 1/4" bolt that isn't even threaded all the way in the flange, give me a break!
And?
i got the same problem,very helpful you video, thanks
You helped me. Thank you!!!!
Not built Ford tough anymore.. buy Toyota.. Ford has a throw away drive shaft and carrier bearing system.. it's not serviceable.. why Ford ? 117000 pinion bearing in rearend went and carrier bearing.. never towed heavy .. WTF .. Toyota has greasable drive shaft and carrier.. 200,000 mile on Toyota worries free and sold it for 1/3 of purchase price.. Never will hear this from an honest Ford owner..
117k? Hell that's great. My 2013 F150 pinion bearing started leaking like a sieve at 49k and had to be replaced. Couldnt believe it. Never towed anything and never overloaded the bed.
Come on, dude. Don't be a hater, I have both Ford and Toyota. I enjoyed them both.
where is the relay locate? i have the same porblem on my 05
I have a 2010 F150 with a 2 piece drive shaft. I have owned this truck for 3 years and have paid my mechanic every 3-6 months ($60 each time) to grease the slip yoke. Enough is enough. It appears that you also have a 2 piece? You may or may not know, could I use this video as an exact location to place my grease fitting?
What you could do,is compare your Drive Shaft, to the one in the Video { of my F150}, and determine if they are the same design,but knowing that your Truck is a 2010 F150 they may have made slight design changes, to the Drive Shaft ,but even with any slight changes,you should still be able to perform this Slip Yoke Grease fitting modification. Because your Drive Shafts Slip Yoke will still have a gap in the Yoke for the Spline to travel/flex/move, in one direction and/or the other,And so, when drilling your port for the Grease fitting,just try to drill as close to the end of the gap as possible ? I drilled mine close to the welded plate for the U-Joint. I hope my thinking ,may help you, and thanks, for your question .
Jesus stop talking shit get to the point!!!!
When I lock my 03 250 it takes 8 minutes, for the dome light to turn off.. I figure this might help someone...😆👍
that my be the battery saver relay,(number 2,)thats taking action, once the 30sec timer isnt work...no?
Anyone did this trick to a 2012 Ford F150 2WD?
If your F150 ,has a Slip Yoke ,and you have the clunk noise ,due to the Grease becoming dryed out and causing a no lubrication for the Slip Yoke spline to slide within the Yoke ,then the installation of a Zerk/Alemite fitting, and adding Grease should fix your problem, as long as that is your problem,and not something else PS This process fixed/solved my problem
Yes I have the same issue, both during initial acceleration and just before coming to complete stop. Interestingly, the noise is worst when I abruptly come to stop and less when I slowly come to stop. I would think most if not all Ford F150 family have the same drive shaft configuration. Mine has 2 pieces however. Right next to the joint, I see a boot and I assume it is where the spline connects to the drive shaft to the differential.
Yes,that noise is probably.and more that likely from the Slip Yoke binding due to lack of lubricatuon,and basically that was what my F150 was doing
wont the zerk fitting compromise the balancing of the drive shaft ?
I have not noticed any balancing issuse at all,and I still have the same Truck,also to date ,I have not added any more Grease to the Slip Yoke.and the Drive Shafts Slip Yoke has no noise or clunk at all .PS When you Drill the port for the Zerk fitting ,the Metal removed is probubly cllose to the weight of the Zerk fitting,so that should counter the weight loss problem,again I have not hade any issues at all and thanks for you question .
Amazing!
Mine does that but when you open/close the driver side door🤷🏽♂️
Why wet sand over dry?
less friction
Sure are a lot of armchair experts around
almost 4 years later, how has it held up? any problems?
No problems at all,and I have not had to add any Grease either