Відео

@@rustandoil I will certainly strip mine out, clean and keep it in reserve for the next time! Thanks for watching 👍

@MikeMakesIt That's what I said..... It's still on the shelf waiting 😂

I’ll be hoping not to use it but it’ll be there just in case 😂

@@JonathanGibbs-fy3tn I had the same issue when I first removed my tank. I did the same as you, all stainless hardware went back in and the tank plate is now bolted below the hangers. So far so good with the mice, no issues so far. Thanks for the comments and for watching 👍

When I changed the first pump 7 years ago I looked into cutting a hole but it appeared you also had to chop through supports braces so I went the conventional route from underneath for removal. Like you say, I wouldn't have seen the rot with a hole in the top. I do intend to refit the tow bar but I have never used it although it would be a selling point. I probably won't refit the back step though as gave little benefit. Thanks for the comments and for watching 👍🏽

@@blakewillett4996 Thanks for that 👍🏽

Hi, thanks, much appreciated. It took a while but was well worth it. The exhaust now also has a proper rear hanger! Thanks for the comments and for watching 👍🏽

Hi Julian, yes it is normal for the R380 gear box. Mine does exactly what you describe. When it comes to changing gear I always find that you have to "feed" the box into gear rather than "force" it in. It feels like a two stage thunk thunk as it goes in to gear. That thunk-thunk is the selector fork moving the synchro collar across the baulk ring and on to the teeth of the gear itself. The key is matching the revs to the speed you are trying to change gear. A lot of other people have described exactly the "problem" we have and really it's down to old tech in an older vehicle. I believe you are familiar with this Land Rover forum but here is a link: www.defender2.net/forum/topic88576.html?highlight=r380+crunch Thanks for watching 👍🏽

@@Knight-Rider01 That’s good service out of those pumps then. I could have bought an after market one but given the work needed to fit it I’d always go for genuine in this case. Thanks for the comments and course for watching 👍🏽

@@JT-kt1rp Hi, I’ve now moved onto Samsung and so far so good. On the Hotpoint I fully dismantled it one time and hosed down the condenser to clean it. The drier has certainly caused me some pain! Thanks for the comments and of course for watching 👍🏽

Let me check.

I don't seem to be able to turn off the bleep on mine when setting it up using the buttons. Using the remote that came with it doesn't produce the noise though on mine.

Hi and thanks for the comments. I'd always buy a brushless piece of kit if available but at the time this wasn't an option for the power file. The cost of a new motor on line in the UK is about £30. Thats about 25% of the cost of a new tools. If I've had years of service from the file I'd probably by a new one rather than buy a new motor. They might even had a brushless version by then! As a DIY'er I'm expecting to get many years service from it as I have had from my other Ryobi kit but do agree being able to change the brushes myself should be relatively painless. I've not opened my file to see if the motor is sealed like yours but if it is I guess it could be down to production costs, ie cheaper to make rather than thwarting easy access to brushes.

Hi and thanks for the comments. I think I would have gone for my original tool format due to the increased access ability, and I’ve used it many times where I couldn’t have used the new riv tool but as I had capability to 5mm already it seemed a good idea to up my game to be able to fit 12mm riv nuts! There are a lot of no name tools to choose from and most of the time if it looks good in the picture I’ll try them. At least with Amazon the return procedure is very easy if you don’t like what you bought. Thanks for watching 👍

@@MikeMakesIt Thanks Mike, good to know !

It is a bit confusing when buying one from Fluke as the numbers are similar. I’ll double check and if I’m wrong I’ll let you know. Thanks for the feedback and of course for watching 👍🏽

@@MikeMakesIt Well, we can only go by what's marked on the barrel, and not a big deal in UK. BTW I got mine apart to check the batteries for corrosion by wearing a pair of grippy gloves. I certainly like the cartridge style battery holder. I've had several slim, aluminium-barrel torches with the screw-cap/drop in style of battery compartment for AA or AAA sizes. Variations in battery diameter over time or maybe swelling due to internal decomposition meant the cell deepest in the tube got stuck. Lesson learned, I have torches which use 18V rechargeables shared with power tools from now on.

Yes, I wan't too bothered about only reading down to 200v as I live in the UK. Also I went for Fluke because of the brand. I have and use Fluke meters and so far I've enjoyed the quality. I always used Duracell batteries but have had a few leak other the last couple of year so need to keep an eye on mine.

It sure is. I do agree it's not the cheapest light I've bought but for my application it'll be great. I've looked at the Ryobi magnifier perhaps for the same reason as you, only having 2 hands, holding a hand held magnifier in one and trying to remove a split with the other is difficult! Thanks for watching 👍🏽

It’s called a a PTO or power take off. Such things as a winch could be attached and driven by the land rovers engine. Land Rover planned this in.

@@MikeMakesIt A winch?! And also the hole on the side of the diff-stick assembly? Same story?

@@smartiboo not sure about that one

Glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck with the mixer, I'm sure there are many years left in it yet. Thanks for watching 👍🏽

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching 👍🏽

Hi, yes mines still good 👍🏽

Hi, I only ever tried the remote that came with the clock on that particular clock. It seems reasonable though if the same remote would work on the same brand of clock.

Thanks for sharing. I also bought mine for the clamp meter. Thanks for watching 👍🏽

Simply use the remote control and use the “set “ button and the + and - buttons to change the date etc as you scroll through. Thanks for watching 👍🏽

I do actual mention the fact I'm going to rebuild the old one but I don't list part numbers, see ua-cam.com/video/d7zqfOeajg0/v-deo.html Thanks for the comments and for watching 👍🏽

Mine is still going strong as well. It’s a lot better built than some of the saws about now. Thanks for watching 👍🏽

It lasted over two years on mine. Could be down to the condition of the chairs and position in the garden, in the sun, out of the sun etc.

@@MikeMakesIt idk I’m thinking poppycock brah 🤔

Mine was very sensitive to battery voltage. Have you tried new batteries? Is the unit at room temperature. Coming from a cold environment can cause it to react slowly until it’s warmed up.

Not yet! Not got anything planned but can happily say the system is still running with absolutely no issues. It even survived the recent bad weather! Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for watching 👍🏽

i mean days

@@MonkeMartyHi. Simply use the remote control and use the “set “ button and the + and - buttons to change the date etc as you scroll through.

No I haven't . Are they any good. I bought a Fluke, the video is here. ua-cam.com/video/mMM6BdbzLN8/v-deo.html

I found something similar on the internet a few months ago but have not been able to find it again. Someone reported a similar error and they believed the firmware in the receiver had failed which would mean buying a new unit, transmitter and receiver. I cannot confirm this but it sounds likely.

This is what I used amzn.to/3IkhIua. but almost any blow lamp would work.

If you follow my link in the video to the sellers eBay site they are a lot cheaper than 12000€

From memory I believe they were about 5mm or 6mm bolts and at a guess 30mm long. It was a while ago! Thanks for watching 👍🏽

@@overlander9898 That would work, great idea 👍

@@leonrichter5943 Hi, my advice would be going over everything you have done, I expect you already have but it is easy to miss things and with the software one wrong space or , is the difference between running and not. Other people have built this project so all the information is sound. Good luck 👍🏽 but remember I do have an image of the software on my Google drive so this should eliminate any programming errors.

@@MikeMakesIt Not sure, I have always found they just work.

Hi, it does depend on the quality of the new bulbs I’ve found. Make sure the new bulbs flanges (contracts) are raised a little as this will allow the flanges will slide onto the PCB area of the dash cluster/speedo. If the contacts are not angled up a tad it’s very difficult for them to engage with the speedo.

Thanks Mike, I played around with the contacts and managed to get it in.... Was getting dark and packed up before I could do the other one but I've noticed I've lost all my guage lights now!! ​@@MikeMakesIt I've taken the Speedo bulb back out incase that short it or anything, anyone able to help 😢😭

It's possible you've shorted out the connector when fitting the bulb so check the fuses also make sure a connector on the binnacle hasn't pulled out. I don't remember which one or where it is except it attaches to the binnacle and the same happened to me! It's a multiway type connector.

@@leehaslam5871 Excellent. I’m glad the video helped. Thanks for the feedback and for watching 👍🏽

Hi, All I did to reduce the brightness was to add a resistor in series with the cable for the backlight. Unfortunately from memory I don't recall the value. I tried one value, if it was still too bright I increased the value of the resistor. I'm guessing it was around 500 ohms, 1/4watt. I have a cupboard full so it was easy to select one that helped although I selected the value when the engine wasn't running and found when it was the voltage changed in the system (Alternator now working) so the brightness increased a bit but I left it like it was. It's still too bright but I haven't had the time to revisit it. Remember put the resistor in series with the cable going to the back light not power to the tacho or anything else!

Hi many thanks for getting back to me and for the information, I shall start with the resistor you mentioned and go from there .

Hi, Amazon have a couple, the original plastic one at around £7 amzn.to/3Ztqdfj and a good looking metal one at around £23 amzn.to/4ggm4kj

Hi, There is a delay on mine of about a second when watching on a fixed monitor attached to the Swann base unit and possibly more when on 4G. I suspect that's down to a lack of onboard processing power rather thank heat but if yours in a really warm place then the heat may add to the delay.

Glad it helped! Thanks for the feedback and of course for watching 👍🏽

Hi, I could have sworn I put links in for the connectors but I couldn’t find them either. I’ll upload the links to Amazon tomorrow for you. Thanks for watching 👍

1 right angle, 1 straight connectors on Amazon amzn.to/3Zq60qJ or pack of 2 straight connectors amzn.to/4eYV3ku

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the feedback and for watching 👍

Agreed, sharpies are great. I always keep one handy. Thanks for watching 👍🏽

@@Chief81 I expect the cameras are very similar. I must say, touch wood, I’ve not had any more issues. Thanks for watching 👍🏽

@ I’ve not had a look yet but sometimes these are sealed units so hopefully not & I’ll do what you did. Tbf these cams are over 5 years old & this is the first time I’ve had any water actually inside them. Driving rain in storms can & will get anywhere.

@@Chief81 indeed. Good luck 😀

Glad it was helpful! Good luck with the fix 👍🏽

It did make a difference but not a massive one for me.

Hi Paul, for the money I think the saw is good value. Obviously made down to a cost otherwise perhaps the issue we have may have been made better with a PFTE surface or similar. My Sons saw has also gone the same way as mine did so clearly a point that needs addressing by Evolution.

Glad it helped. Thanks for the feedback and for watching 👍🏽