Відео

The robot voice is OK, but it needs to slow down, and clearly show the connection on the AP board. After looking and thinking about it, the connection on the AP board was obvious, but it would have been nice to actually show the X1 design, since it it so different from the P1. More detailed pictures that pointed out the exact connector to use, and a general wire layout would have made things much clearer.

If the connection of the AP is so important why doesn’t you show a close up? Instructions are garbage from QR code

For people who bricked their Hurakan, "Hurakan V1.2 User Manual.pdf" contains instructions for rebuilding the firmware. I chose a rebuild using the latest non-Hurakan-specific minimum OS install. That worked fine but has some minor features missing, such as move head to 4 corners of the bed for manual leveling. Also missing is the start up message on the printer display - I just get a blank black display until booted up. I managed OK without the missing features and everything I need could be done via the browser UI. I use the printer for tool making and satisfied with the result and precision. My app combo is FreeCAD and PrusaSlicer, both are free and not needing account creation. Backup of the SD card could be made using "HDD Raw Copy Tool". I store the the backup in a .vhdx file created via windows Disk Management. If the vhdx disk is bigger than the SD card during a restore, HDD Raw Copy Tool will complain write failure close to the end of the restore. This can be ignored.

Are you guys going to have any sales anytime soon? Hoping to test this one day!

For those curious, I measure the current draw on both my X1C stock light and the Panda Lux and I'll let you make the decision. X1C LED Draw: 156mA Panda Lux Draw: 190mA Both connected on adapter board: 268mA Yes the numbers don't appear to add up, but that's what the meter shows so I'm going to run both and still be under the 300mA rating.

Nice

What kind of build plate is that again? Better than Bambu super tack?

If you can only use one light at a time why not just direct connect to the connector in the AP board? Why use the jumper when using multiple lights isn’t recommended anymore.

How do you adjust the print bed?

This is already a thing tho right?

Congratulations you changed the filament type

I did have a observation and question. I recently got a new X1C (2 month ago), I recently received my Panda LUX. I noticed in the X1C the internal light connector seems to be “hot glued” to the board. Is it safe to break that seal? Has anyone else noticed the same?

This doesn't work for me. The stock led has a male adapter while this LED comes with a female one.

I got this light because it was inexpensive and I was buying some other parts and it was suggestion. For $10 how can you go wrong. Let's see. It is better than the factory light however not even close to amount of light from other 3rds. party products. Also the hue, color of the light is not what I expected. I want a more natural color so I can judge what the print will actually look like whikle printing. For the price and compared to stock for $10 you are fine however compared some of the competition priced only $3 - $5 more you are better to step up level.

Garbage company

I would consider it if there was an actual transparent one with no tint. It's already hard enough to see inside the printer, don't need to make it any more difficult.

This coming is scamming people. Don’t buy from

I ended up getting too scared to mess around with my X1C's board, and stuck the official Bambu LED light kit (USB) on the bottom of my AMS riser, pointed down through the top glass. The light kit even came with the little double-sided adhesive. Plugged into a smart USB power brick so I can turn it on and off remotely.

Я заказал себе, почти приехала дверца. Когда на верх сделаете?

Don't I also have to change the nozzle material from hardened steel to brass in the printer settings? 🤔 And what about other settings? Temperature, Speed,.... This instruction doesn't have enough information for a beginner.

Can I also connect the original light?

You guys should make a pink front door to match the pink lux skin.

Great upgrade, loving mine! But video is cheesy. The robotic voice seems unnecessary -just have a real person read a script.

How does the texture of the CryoGrip Pro compare to the Bambu textured gold build plate? I'm looking for something more course, like the original black bambu textured plate.

where can I find proper stls for all of those? github has different models available. Edit. nevermind - more files are under 'no runout, no fan' directory.

usb

Ordered a panda claw! Very excited

😍😍Congratulations！ First Round： BIGTREETECH Panda PWR --TechJeeper BIGTREETECH Panda Branch ---Jimi A Banda BIQU Panda Claw（Random） ----Xiao Shi Zi BIQU Panda Door (Random color) ---Nick DeBorja BIQU Panda JetPack --- Kayla Meredith BIQU Panda BuildPlate Designer Series ---robinmonolife BIQU Panda CryoGrip BuildPlate ---Robert Leon Second Round: BIGTREETECH Panda PWR --MakerMind Nexus BIGTREETECH Panda Branch ---Candid Quality BIQU Panda Claw（Random） ----Myles Mander BIQU Panda Door (Random color) ---Karl Pearson BIQU Panda JetPack --- Johan Tessens BIQU Panda BuildPlate Designer Series ---ChangeThaChannel BIQU Panda CryoGrip BuildPlate ---Sique 📌Please DM us via Facebook messenger or email us by marketing@biqu3d.com. Thank you for watching!

Added to a P1S. Went like video said it would. Nice instructions. LED lights up front of cabinet well. The back, not so much. Worth the ten bucks I spent. Dunno if I would keep it long term.

Works great. i love it. i just wish i could use both the stock light and this upgraded light

What about the x1c? it's plugged in to the main board in the back of the printer and this wire isn't long enough

Universal heh... Can I be the first to install this on a Bambu Lab X1C?

Love this upgrade. Tkx to bigtreetech and your army of ducks 🦆🦆🦆🦆

Die LED Leiste stört den Druckopf bei der Ausrichtung, da dieser dagegen fährt. Geht sofort in die Mülltonne.

It looks awesome! Thanks for the vid

Tonight installed the LED upgrade kit from Pando Lux after seeing your video. The light works great but have lost both the control screen now is blank screen and camera message from B/Studios (Printer camera is malfunctioning. Printed a small pirate ship and for the first time using the P1S the print come out bad. Any ideas on what happen and how to correct this problem.

Para la carbón x1E no vale lo compre pero es diferente las conecciones

Night and day difference, definitely worth the upgrade

Moneten

I got it and it sucked. It was broken out of the box.

Is there any guesses, why this could not be connected to the USB port to have the stock light as well?

I'm having trouble with the 3d printer biqu b1 saying it's not connected. Someone can help me?

Running Calibration on the P1S right now. I was doing the install Live on Twitch and cut it short when I couldn't get the Revo connector on. After the stream I took a breath and pushed harder than I wanted to, and it snapped on! Now I just need some ObXidian Nozzles 🤘🤘

Ok now show the noise levels 😂

When will the kit be restocked?

At least the heater cable is simply to short for X1C. Very annoying: You safe 1 cm and the customer has a pretty hard time to get the hotend installed. My experience with thrid party parts (needed to replace my printbed too, because a part got loose and it bend the stuickertable pretty bad => Wanted to try out a full alloy one) is pretty annoying. Not because of the quality of the main part but because of to too short cables, cheap cable shoes and such things, which is sooo unnecessary annoying. AND the thrid party parts are MORE expensive than the original ones.