Відео

There's a lot of content on my channel about bringing that car back to life! It's a beautiful car, belongs to my father.

You mean checking the voltage at the distributor? You can see the volt meter probe in the connector for power at the distributor.

Press the brake pedal a few times with it running. The first press felt a little funny, but nothing major.

When going from computer controlled to non computer controlled, you need the carb and distributor to be non computer controlled. What are your plugs looking like? That's the giveaway of how it's running. Just because you jetted down may not fix a rich, especially at idle, condition. You'll want to adjust your idle circuits, too.

@@SnowFamilyRacing yeah I already have a edelbrock, and I installed the new distributor with vacuum advance today. Shot the timing to 20degrees. Now I can actually drive the car. Plus is doesn’t burn your eyes as much. lol It still has issues though. I noticed when shooting the ignition timing. It would run way pass the 20 degree mark when revved slightly, 12-1500rpm Is that normal? Yes the vacuum advance hose is disconnected.

This goes between the tank and the regulator. The regulator is typically at the tank, you'll want to look at it and figure out where the regulator is and if this placed in line with it.

Here's a video on the machine ua-cam.com/video/T9FTUEQkQ3Q/v-deo.html I've also got a few upgrades that I'll be covering soon, too.

I totally understand! There's a lot of misinformation around upgrades, my intent is to show the best bang for the buck, what can be done, and what makes sense. I've played with stock stuff, through my MSD ignition boxes and there is definitely a place for each one. Quick word of caution, with the '85 you will want to know if you have the computer controlled ignition and carburetor. If you do, this part will not do any good since it's not compatible with the computer controlled stuff. I think '85 may be one of the last years of the non-computer stuff for GM trucks, don't quote me on that year I'm working from memory. Best of luck with the squarebody! I'm a fan of the '80's GM stuff!

The good news is that you've got my entire library of videos on the Riviera! I'm glad you're finding value!

That can be an issue. If I were to add a relay for a system like the ignition system, it would be using a keyed source. I tend to favor keeping the OE style ignition switch and using it to trigger functions.

I know that guy too!

Not the end of the world, out of the ashes of broken parts will rise a Phoenix of a better rear end!

You already know, but there's something good coming!

About $30.

The MSD module has been absolutely trouble-free in that Monte Carlo since I put it in. I'm finding that Napa is a better source for OE style electrical components, but that's no guarantee they'll live long. I've had new Napa components fail far too early. The MSD is a great choice and definitely worth the money and peace of mind to never mess with it again.

@@SnowFamilyRacing Think you sold me. Will give it a shot. I like how the harness and module are all in one on the MSD.

It's easy and just goes in. It's got instructions, and you've got this video to help.

I might on my race car, not on this one. There's a locating detent that the cap fits into so that that only goes on in one orientation. The common module is the 4 pin for non computer controlled engines. There's a 7 and 9 pin variant for the computer controlled models. For the parts store people, just about any Chevy V8 car or truck used the same part. My go-to for stuff like this is a 78 Monte Carlo with a 350. That gets me the common things like a module.

If you go to my website, I've got a link and a 10% discount code for Topdon jump packs. These are professional tools, not some junk off Amazon. The best part is they don't come at a crazy price tag.

I'd recommend this video I made. This one walks you through what to verify from the battery to the distributor. You'll want to check for power all along the way until you find the issue. ua-cam.com/video/DjIHk0C2WCg/v-deo.html

It's a 30x30 with a 12 foot wall, no I'm not flexing anything. I have old stuff, 2 Gbodies, a '56 Olds 88, nothing newer than 2006. I lucked into this one, and I'm making it work for me. I'm a machinist by trade, and I value making stuff from raw stock. Thanks for your comment. If you want to see flex, I'm not your guy.

I've got a storages place to dump the weird stuff, and things that still have life. I know I packed stuff in a hurry before I moved here, in surprised what I've held on to! More organization required!

I don't off the top of my head. That would put it somewhere around the 1/4" range.

Good point, especially with a higher powered coil. MSD does have some guidance on which button to use in what application.

@@SnowFamilyRacing First time I dismissed the guidance, never again.

I was under the impression that the cones were 60' short as opposed to 66'. It's not wildly useful data in most circumstances. I could see an aggressive top end driver could use those as an extra data point. I did notice that those times were not listed on last night's time slips. It would be nice to get the left lanes 330' times working!

Thank you very much! I appreciate it! There will be much more coming soon!

@@SnowFamilyRacing look forward to it Eric.Cheers and many thanks.

The seal gets driven into the aluminum housing of the transmission. I'm not quite sure what you are asking.

You're welcome! You and several others on different videos all had a similar question, I figured it was a great time to do it!

@@SnowFamilyRacing do you have any videos on rocker arm adjustments? Sbc V8

Not yet. I probably should run the valves on my El Camino, I haven't done that in a while. It's a hydraulic flat tappet cam and lifter. It's still worth looking at since that engine gets beat on pretty hard.

Thanks! Sometimes, it's things like that that can cause all sorts of issues.

Thanks! I want to make it easier to learn and keep track of electrical troubleshooting.

There are a few reasons. First, there's a quality problem with where the current off the shelf parts are made. I've had the best luck with Napa for off the shelf electrical parts. Next, you may have a voltage issue like the alternator may be putting out too much voltage. The engine may also have a grounding issue. Check both power and ground. Lastly, I've got another video on my channel about swapping to the MSD ignition module. I've done that on several cars and haven't had to mess with them again. Between all of those things, you should find an answer.

Glad to help! Thanks for the good words. I've got more coming!

The spider was huge!

Thanks! Some good Dr with a Yellow 1964 Buick Special introduced it to me! Now I use it to play the game better! Hmmm... bracket racing a hopped up Nailhead... Could be fun!

Intermittent issues are likely caused by loose connections. You need a wiring diagram and start chasing wires to ensure you have good connections everywhere. If the steering column is loose at the tilt mechanism, that can push on the ignition switch funny and cause problems. I've got a video about reading wiring diagrams, that video also has a link to an electrical diagnostic checklist. I've also got plans for several electrical diagnostic and troubleshooting videos. Stay tuned!

Here's a link to the video I did about reading wiring diagrams. ua-cam.com/video/QMOdPEC-CnI/v-deo.html

This one is bolted through the skin. I don't know if passenger side mirrors were an option on these. If you marked it all out and made sure everything was properly rust proofed, I don't see why you couldn't to that.

How bout the door latch? Your video didn't show how it disconnects

The handle and it's push button stay with the skin. There's nothing to undo, it pulls away. It's amazing that it works, but it does!

You're welcome!

That's actually a Street Demon carb made by Demon. It's kinda thermoquad, kinda Edelbrock, kinda weird. It works well enough, and I haven't had to mess with the tune in ages. I set it and forgot it. At the time, the car needed a carb faster than I could piece together a Qjet from my stash. Deep down, I'm a Qjet guy.

Cool 😎 I will look into it.

That's likely a hall effect style distributor on the TBI GM engines. I don't have any resources on those.

I do not know. Given how quickly I heard back from Wilwood, I'd reach out to them and ask.

First, you'll want to check to make sure all the detects are lined up correctly. Put the shifter in park and make sure that the transmission is correctly in park, then do the same with low. Beyond that, I don't have any idea without putting my hands on it. Check the transmission fluid for twinkly metal or excessive clutch material, as well as if the fluid is burned. Those may give clues.

@@SnowFamilyRacing thank you sir for all that you show us !

Thanks! I do what I can.

This crusty one may get wire wheeled, painted, greased and bolted back down. I've learned that it may be nice to have a bigger vise, a smaller one still has plenty of usefulness.

@@SnowFamilyRacing oh they do! I just broke one in like it beating on it before. I needed the post lol!

Power, ground and easy stuff are always the first to check!

Nope! Still in the car and doing their thing. My dad drives this car daily and has had no problems with them. I believe I got these axles from RockAuto.com. It's been awhile since I did this!