Відео

@@carlosr.2027 yes if you are chasing grams and have the soldering skills. The trade off is motor replacement is more difficult. Plastic motor screws could be used. Going with Bi blade props (may have to cut down 4 blade prop) can shed some weight.

Even though Pavo 20 is larger, I think it is better because of the frame design. I have no issues with jello in the video indoors or outdoors. I know reviews of the Pico complain they have to play around with it to get clean video (why I went with the 20). Also, the Pavo 20 is still small enough to fly indoors. There is also the new Pavo 20 pro, but you are stepping up to an even larger and heavier quad. Please keep in mind I am not a professional videographer, just a hobby for me. SLOG

@@skullfuel9 unfortunately not but HDO Zero does have an add on module if your goggles support HDMI input like the Fatshark HDO2s have.

@@TheDroneNerd my go to whoop battery is the Tattu 300mAh 75c black HV. Love these batteries.

@@DadRandom thanks for the sub👍

@@neuromancer692 totally agree no downside.

@@user-mb5dm7zs9j thanks!!

@@PepeKaballa80 thanks 😊 appreciate the feedback !

@@PepeKaballa80 thanks 🙏

Thanks and the 35mm props make a big difference. Cheers, SLOG

Appreciate the feedback 😀

Hello, many people that stop by my channel are new pilots so I tailor my content on upgrades to be as easy as possible and why I suggested the pre-installed 100uF cap as it is easy to install. But to answer your question, yes if you have the soldering skills to solder the old 220uF cap on the end, that would be better. The best option, but more challenging, is to solder it right on the pads that the pigtail attaches to for the best filtering. But again soldering the pigtail and the low ESR cap on the same pads is more difficult. It really comes down to a question of what is good enough and I found the 100uF cap solution to be adequate for filtering. PS Make sure you check the polarity on the low ESR cap. Hope this helps, SLOG

@@slogfpv5679 Hi, thank you so much for your reply and the thorough explenation! Im not sure, that there's enough space to solder the cap directly onto the ESC, i think ill use the same solution as you, i found a 20V 220uF cap that ill just solder onto the Xt30 connector, thank you for the advice, i really appreciate it :)

Hi, I know it is confusing but some FPV quads come as Ready To Fly (Comes With Controllers and in some cases goggles). This is a Bind and FLY which means you bind it to a controller that supports the RC control link. In this case it is ExpressLRS. For this model you also have to install the DJI O3 air unit. So to answer your question why? Because it is a cheaper option if you already have a controller and goggles (not added into the cost). SLOG

@@JoachimCarmody-nr6jh Thanks for the comment and welcome to the Hobby👍

@@tomkoller749 yes agree it is a fun little park flyer. Happy flying!

Thanks appreciate the response! SLOG

Thanks for the feedback! Full disclosure, I would not consider myself a master tuner and more recently I have been using presets. This quad is not the easiest to tune as it does not have onboard flash for data logging for blackbox tuning. I usually use either Chris Rosser's process or UAV Tech's when I tune so they are an excellent source for tuning your quad. I have a couple of videos in process but after that I was going to do another upgrade video for this model but I can see what tweaks I can make prior to the upgrade and post them. Cheers, SLOG

# diff all ###WARNING: NO CUSTOM DEFAULTS FOUND### # version # Betaflight / STM32F411 (S411) 4.2.0 Jun 14 2020 / 03:04:43 (8f2d21460) MSP API: 1.43 ###ERROR: diff: NO CONFIG FOUND### # start the command batch batch start # reset configuration to default settings defaults nosave board_name FLYWOOF411 manufacturer_id FLWO mcu_id 002c003e3439510436383737 signature # name: FLYWOO # resources resource BEEPER 1 C14 resource MOTOR 1 A08 resource MOTOR 2 A09 resource MOTOR 3 A10 resource MOTOR 4 B00 resource MOTOR 5 B04 resource PPM 1 A02 resource PWM 1 B01 resource PWM 2 A03 resource SERIAL_TX 1 B06 resource SERIAL_TX 2 A02 resource SERIAL_TX 11 A15 resource SERIAL_RX 1 B07 resource SERIAL_RX 2 A03 resource SERIAL_RX 11 A01 resource I2C_SCL 1 B08 resource I2C_SDA 1 B09 resource LED 1 C13 resource SPI_SCK 1 A05 resource SPI_SCK 2 B13 resource SPI_MISO 1 A06 resource SPI_MISO 2 B14 resource SPI_MOSI 1 A07 resource SPI_MOSI 2 B15 resource ADC_BATT 1 A00 resource ADC_RSSI 1 B01 resource PINIO 1 B05 resource FLASH_CS 1 B02 resource OSD_CS 1 B12 resource GYRO_EXTI 1 B03 resource GYRO_CS 1 A04 resource USB_DETECT 1 C15 # timer timer A02 AF3 # pin A02: TIM9 CH1 (AF3) timer A08 AF1 # pin A08: TIM1 CH1 (AF1) timer A09 AF1 # pin A09: TIM1 CH2 (AF1) timer A10 AF1 # pin A10: TIM1 CH3 (AF1) timer B00 AF2 # pin B00: TIM3 CH3 (AF2) timer B04 AF2 # pin B04: TIM3 CH1 (AF2) timer B01 AF2 # pin B01: TIM3 CH4 (AF2) timer A03 AF2 # pin A03: TIM5 CH4 (AF2) timer B10 AF1 # pin B10: TIM2 CH3 (AF1) timer A15 AF1 # pin A15: TIM2 CH1 (AF1) timer A01 AF1 # pin A01: TIM2 CH2 (AF1) # dma dma ADC 1 0 # ADC 1: DMA2 Stream 0 Channel 0 dma pin A08 1 # pin A08: DMA2 Stream 1 Channel 6 dma pin A09 1 # pin A09: DMA2 Stream 2 Channel 6 dma pin A10 0 # pin A10: DMA2 Stream 6 Channel 0 dma pin B00 0 # pin B00: DMA1 Stream 7 Channel 5 dma pin B04 0 # pin B04: DMA1 Stream 4 Channel 5 dma pin B01 0 # pin B01: DMA1 Stream 2 Channel 5 dma pin A03 1 # pin A03: DMA1 Stream 3 Channel 6 dma pin B10 0 # pin B10: DMA1 Stream 1 Channel 3 dma pin A15 0 # pin A15: DMA1 Stream 5 Channel 3 dma pin A01 0 # pin A01: DMA1 Stream 6 Channel 3 # mixer mmix 0 1.000 -0.809 0.659 -1.000 mmix 1 1.000 -1.000 -0.659 1.000 mmix 2 1.000 0.809 0.659 1.000 mmix 3 1.000 1.000 -0.659 -1.000 # feature feature -RX_PARALLEL_PWM feature RX_SERIAL feature MOTOR_STOP feature SOFTSERIAL feature GPS feature TELEMETRY feature OSD # serial serial 0 64 115200 57600 0 115200 serial 1 2 115200 9600 0 115200 serial 30 1 115200 57600 0 115200 # aux aux 0 0 1 1375 2100 0 0 aux 1 2 1 1600 2100 0 0 aux 2 46 2 1700 2100 0 0 aux 3 13 0 1700 2100 0 0 aux 4 35 3 1700 2100 0 0 # rxfail rxfail 6 s 2000 # master set gyro_lowpass2_hz = 325 set yaw_spin_recovery = ON set dyn_lpf_gyro_min_hz = 260 set dyn_lpf_gyro_max_hz = 650 set acc_calibration = 60,-24,68,1 set mag_bustype = I2C set mag_i2c_device = 1 set mag_hardware = NONE set baro_bustype = I2C set baro_i2c_device = 1 set baro_hardware = NONE set rssi_channel = 12 set rc_smoothing_derivative_type = BIQUAD set serialrx_provider = CRSF set blackbox_device = SPIFLASH set dshot_burst = ON set motor_pwm_protocol = DSHOT300 set failsafe_procedure = GPS-RESCUE set current_meter = NONE set battery_meter = ADC set ibata_scale = 170 set beeper_inversion = ON set beeper_od = OFF set small_angle = 180 set gps_sbas_mode = AUTO set gps_rescue_angle = 25 set gps_rescue_throttle_min = 1300 set gps_rescue_throttle_hover = 1400 set gps_rescue_min_sats = 5 set gps_rescue_allow_arming_without_fix = ON set pid_process_denom = 4 set osd_vbat_pos = 2305 set osd_rssi_pos = 2177 set osd_rssi_dbm_pos = 161 set osd_tim_1_pos = 2401 set osd_tim_2_pos = 2369 set osd_flymode_pos = 2273 set osd_throttle_pos = 2361 set osd_vtx_channel_pos = 2241 set osd_craft_name_pos = 2081 set osd_gps_speed_pos = 2264 set osd_gps_lon_pos = 2124 set osd_gps_lat_pos = 2092 set osd_gps_sats_pos = 2167 set osd_home_dir_pos = 2190 set osd_home_dist_pos = 2200 set osd_flight_dist_pos = 2232 set osd_altitude_pos = 2327 set osd_warnings_pos = 14729 set osd_avg_cell_voltage_pos = 2337 set osd_disarmed_pos = 2411 set osd_flip_arrow_pos = 2113 set osd_core_temp_pos = 2296 set osd_log_status_pos = 2145 set system_hse_mhz = 8 set cpu_overclock = OFF set max7456_spi_bus = 2 set dashboard_i2c_bus = 1 set pinio_box = 40,41,255,255 set flash_spi_bus = 2 set gyro_1_bustype = SPI set gyro_1_spibus = 1 set gyro_1_sensor_align = CW180 set gyro_1_align_yaw = 1800 set gyro_2_spibus = 1 set name = FLYWOO profile 0 # profile 0 set dyn_lpf_dterm_min_hz = 91 set dyn_lpf_dterm_max_hz = 221 set dterm_lowpass2_hz = 195 set anti_gravity_gain = 5000 set iterm_relax_cutoff = 20 set p_pitch = 52 set i_pitch = 63 set d_pitch = 68 set f_pitch = 80 set p_roll = 47 set i_roll = 59 set d_roll = 63 set f_roll = 76 set p_yaw = 50 set i_yaw = 63 set f_yaw = 76 set d_min_roll = 41 set d_min_pitch = 45 set d_min_boost_gain = 27 profile 1 profile 2 # restore original profile selection profile 0 rateprofile 0 # rateprofile 0 set tpa_breakpoint = 1250 rateprofile 1 rateprofile 2 rateprofile 3 rateprofile 4 rateprofile 5 # restore original rateprofile selection rateprofile 0 # save configuration save #

Here is the factory diff I had on my computer. Make sure you are running Betaflight 4.2.0 to start with. SLOG

@@slogfpv5679 ... Great, Thank you so much.

@@slogfpv5679 ..... Great, Thank you so much.

Hi @BraynerBR, Thanks for the feedback! IMHO, unless you have spent hours in a simulator, I would highly recommend starting out with a 1S Whoop over a 5 inch. Not saying it is impossible but could lead to frustration and way more dangerous (31 grams vs 500+ grams take off weight). Also a 5 inch will hit your pocket book substantially more. Yes I have flown it indoors and it is actually very smooth in angle mode as long as you manage your throttle. SLOG

Looks awsome. Does the FC have pads to add a beeper?

@@Z4nd3r-D Yes it does have Buz- and Buz+ pads www.happymodel.cn/index.php/2023/09/04/superx-hd-elrs-1-2s-aio-flight-controlelr-built-in-12a-esc-and-uart-elrs-receiver-for-digital-whoop/ SLOG

Hi, there is no bind button for the ExpressLRS receiver on this quad. I always recommend using a binding phrase but there is also a traditional-way by power cycling 3 times to put it into bind mode. Link below to the ExpressLRS Org binding options: www.expresslrs.org/quick-start/binding/#how-to-bind-expresslrs-devices-together SLOG

Ok, thank you 😉

What is a good link for the right 2s battery to match the xt30? the biggest I can fit on this thing for max flight times

Glad the video was helpful!

Joshua Bardwell does good job at reviewing some entry level analog goggles. Link below: www.fpvknowitall.com/fpv-shopping-list-goggles-video-transmitters-and-cameras/#goggles SLOG

Have a few thoughts in mind. Will post if it works out. SLOG

There are several balance plug BECs that will power a small action camera. I modified a USB type C version and soldered on the run cam cable harness that came with the camera. Link below on one that may not need to be soldered. I would check the pin out carefully. Link below: Flywoo USB Type-C SH1.0 3-Pin Balance Plug to Power Cable for Action Cameras www.getfpv.com/flywoo-usb-type-c-sh1-0-3-pin-balance-plug-to-power-cable-for-action-cameras.html

Glad you liked the video!

Hi @OVERKILLFPV, I used two different batteries in my review, a GNB 720mAh 2S (longer flight time) and GNB 550mAh 2S (better thrust to weight ratio). I really like that EMAX went with a 25mmx25mm standard whoop board as this opens this quad up to more Mods like what you are doing. Sounds like a fun. Cheers, SLOG

Yes that is what I am flying with (Radiomaster Pocket).

Not sure you can even get this whoop anymore (not currently showing up on BetaFPV). I think a good alternative (assuming you fly analog for the VTX) is the Mobula7 1S HD 75mm brushless whoop drone with 1080P HD DVR. Larger frame and props that will translate into longer flight times. SLOG

@@slogfpv5679 i dont think you can but you can get the camera and drv, so im thinking of getting a tiny hawk III plus, and maybe upgrading the camera to the BetaFpvs in this drone. I dont mind flying in analogue, but to be able to have really nice HD recording on the drone is a MASSIVE saving over a walksanil or dji, and i think another brand has a camera with a drv on the drone

Hi, Yes you can but not with the factory settings. I answered a similar question below but here is my response: @Kaesebrot100 is correct. If you go into the Betaflight configurator you can set it up to use the DJI controller 2. Found a good video from MrTechCat that should help: ua-cam.com/video/I2nv5_BYppY/v-deo.html SLOG

@@slogfpv5679 thanks for the quick response, I just ordered hopefully I can follow your instructions and get it in the air , thanks again

I greatly appreciate the feedback 👍 SLOG

Hello, Even though the flight controller is rated at 2S-3S, the documentation on BetaFPV states that you should be using 3S (3 cell) batteries for the PAVO20. betafpv.com/products/pavo20-brushless-whoop-quadcopter “Note: 2-4S is for the Pavo20 frame, this Pavo20 quadcopter only supports 3S batteries” “Only 3S 450mAh~650mAh LAVA 3S 450mAh 75C Battery LAVA 3S 550mAh 75C Battery”. Not sure why you have to fly with full throttle but I would try a fresh 3S battery of the approxomate size as listed above. I would also check to see if you have a bad motor (use the motor tab in Beta flight configurator with props off to see if one is spinning weaker than the rest). Cheers, SLOG

No I did not but I fly in parks. Cheers, SLOG

Glad you liked the video. Great little analog starter whoop! Mine still running solid. Happy Whooping👋

With 2.5 inch props you're not going to see any significant improvements running props out as far as flight characteristics. On tiny whoops it helps mitigate the dirty air inefficiency that happens on the rear props (motors don't have much authority). The only reason I run props out is it helps bounce off of tree scraggle (I have a willow tree). SLOG

@@slogfpv5679 ahh okay! I was scared mine were the wrong way round for a minute 😂

@@slogfpv5679 how do you find the flight indoors? A small amount of throttle to gain liftoff and mine wants to move forward quite fast (I have a tiny house so shooting forward is pretty scary) do you find just throttling up slowly without any pitch starts to move you forward fairly quickly also? I’m new to FPV and the sims i have played have very static drones when throttling. They just go up and down with throttle and don’t move forward or sideways at all.

@@GeoWhizzz , I do not want to discourage you, but the Tinyhawk III Freestyle is not an indoor quad. It is way too fast and with open props you're just going to damage things in your house and go through props. Also you will get frustrated. You can learn FPV with it, but I would recommend a wide open grassy park. If you are looking for a great indoor quad, I would say go with the new Happymodel Mobula 6 HDZero ECO 2024 65MM Whoop. It is designed for indoors. But, if you are in a northern latitude, spring is here and a good time for park flying 😁

@@slogfpv5679 yeah I understand it’s an outdoor quad (main reason I got it) but I couldn’t help but wonder what it would be like inside 😂😂 yeah I’m looking to get another style of drone soon. I might even save the next few months and go for DJI goggles and fly those buttery smooth o3 units.

Hello, Not much to the XT30 upgrade other than soldering on a new pigtail (two wires). If you go to 3:36 in this video you can see the red wire (positive) goes to positive pad labeled with a “+” and the black wire (negative) goes to the negative pad labeled with a “-“. Very simple if you buy a preassembled pigtail with a low ESR Cap, wires and XT-30 connector (link below). www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZPZBPLL The harder part is soldering on pigtail to the FC. Needs higher heat (400c). Joshua Bardwell has a great tutorial on soldering and does a lot better job than I would do. ua-cam.com/video/GoPT69y98pY/v-deo.htmlsi=gjWO2g8l1qceegEB SLOG

@@slogfpv5679thank you so much do you think you’ll ever upgrade the vtx in this drone?

@@baacon8r I am happy right now with this setup. Long term it might be interesting to switch out to a Walksnail Avatar HD Mini 1S for on board recording. Happy flying!

@@slogfpv5679 ohh sounds good one more question is there a way you could sell those front bumper you maid I do not own a 3d printer

@@baacon8r thanks for asking but my channel is a hobby channel that I do for fun and hopefully help out fellow pilots. I do not want to monitise it in any way. I have no issues with you sending the STL files to a 3D print shop. I would say if you can afford it (maybe a birthday present) a small 3D printer like the Bambu Lab A1 Mini is a game changer if you want to get into building your own quads (you won't regret it). You don't need the AMS IMHO. The 180mm cubed build area is plenty for FPV and other small projects and it is super easy to use. Bambu Lab just dropped the price to $250 US which I think is a steal. SLOG

I use a pair of blunt nose tweezers. I get it started by pinching the sides together and push one end into the hole. A small flat head screw driver helps push the bottom edge of the grommet through the hole. I flip the frame over and gently pull the edge with the tweezers. I continue pushing and pulling until I can get my fingers on the edge and just keep pulling the bottom edge through going around. Every one probably has their own way of doing it. This is just my way.

@@slogfpv5679 this is what I did as well. Takes a little bit of time but it works

Hi, Thanks for the comment! I just looked at a flight doing what I call "park acro" and I was getting around 4:58 (~5min). My voltage was 14.3 (3.57 per cell) when I landed. So it does really well with my type of flying. Of course your results may vary based on how hard you push it. SLOG

Hello @ibilyy, It's probably due to all the content already available on how to bind an ExpressLRS RC transmitter to a quad and how to link DJI Goggles 2 to a DJI O3 Airunit. Here is a couple of good links on the topic from Oscar Liang: oscarliang.com/setup-expresslrs-2-4ghz/ oscarliang.com/dji-o3-air-unit-fpv-goggles-2/ Hope these help, SLOG

Appreciate the comment! Happy flying 👍

Hi Richard, sorry to hear you are having issues. There is not a lot of information above for me to troubleshot your problem, but what you are describing sounds like a control link problem between your remote controller (Radio Transmitter) and your quad (receiver). -> The ExpressLRS protocol is a great control link but needs to be setup properly. A lot of good UA-cam videos and write-ups on ELRS. Here is a couple: oscarliang.com/setup-expresslrs-2-4ghz/ www.expresslrs.org/quick-start/getting-started/ ->Check the antenna on your RC-transmitter for damage or not tight on the RC-transmitter. -> If you are using JR-Bay module make sure it is seated properly. ->Also make sure you have a good charge on the RC-Transmitter (some are not calibrated for notifying you when the battery is low) ->Make sure you are seeing multiple bars (signal strength) on your RC-Transmitter (good control link connection) SLOG

No the stock tune was good so did not mess with that. SLOG

No not at this time. The only thing you might want to look into is a RunCam Thumb camera mount. SLOG

Hello, if you are running a camera mount it might be a little tight. However, If you come out the back with the pigtail, you should be fine. This quad actually has a long top plate for a 3.5 inch quad. SLOG