Відео

Im running a pmas hpx maf, RS4 one works as well as long as you have a tuner who is willing to tune with that setup.

Not too sure about bottom mount setup with AC as I dont have much experience with those. As for clocking the drain 5 oclock is fine 4 is pushing it a bit. I know its common for people running a bottom mount to run a scavenge pump which helps the return flow and allows you to run a more aggressive angle.

@@aco.b thanks for the info.

Same motor but he is single vanos and yours is dual vanos. Not as simple as turbo go there pipe go there. You'll need many many many different fittings, sensors, custom piping made, tuning, some more tuning, etc. Do your research and then do more research, start saving now to do it properly or you'll be saving for a new motor to try again. Refresh before boosting m5x engine: COOLING SYSTEM: Radiator, Upper/lower coolant hoses, Thermostat, Coolant temp sensor (on lower coolant hose), Fan clutch, Water pump, Aux Fan. VANOS: Viton O-rings, Anti Rattle Bushings, Gasket, Piston Housing Seals. should also get in there and replace timing chain and guides depending on mileage. Hopefully it works out for you. Best of luck.

I used a sheet of perforated aluminum and bent it around the reservoir to reflect any heat. The downpipe is also wrapped with some fiberglass header wrap - you can also run a turbo blanket/cerakote the hot side if needed.

@@aco.b i have a turbo blanket on the way and header wrap but was curious as to what you did because i had a similar idea but that’s neat. Thank you!

RSI

Nope, unless its some cheap stuff

Turn that dream into reality 🏎️

Precision 6266

😂

I can try to explain it but I think the video does it better 😂

Thanks! They are 1"/25mm

Hey! Yes the maf reads much higher values, it is an HPX PMAS. The injectors are Siemens DEKA 60lb/630cc I would probably recommend different ones as these are notorious for being difficult to tune idle etc but I got a good deal on them. Fuel regulator is still stock, ive seen builds as high as 600hp still on the stock regulator so no need to change for what im doing.

@@aco.b thanks man! Really quickly, what's the wiring like for the MAF? same wires? Is there a diagram? cheers!

@ECEuro same wiring colours except the blue pmas wire goes to the yellow factory wire. The 2 extra gray wires can be ignored

I typically go with the hub conversion but this car is on adapters

31x13x3 - 3” inlet/outlet

@@aco.b did you have to cut the front crash bar or just the back of the bumper?

@benjohnstonn zero cutting needed

M52/M50 turbo is the better option, cheaper/higher power, less work and probably more reliable. I just have an SR20 car because I always wanted to do it lol

It is a ZF, I wouldn’t trust the getrag much over stock power

Can you help me install it for my e36 ❤

Maybe try changing your gain, if you havent then try to put it on F

Radiator hose and wastegate, I could also rotate it 180 but only if I cut out the wheel well on that side

@@aco.b ok, so I was thinking right way, that you would not miss such oportunity to make intake piping lot simplier ;) If you want to make it temperature-wise quite reliable, oil cooler is a must have. my b30t have not and after not so long 2-3 runs it goes to 110-115C (like probably 230F? ) and doesn't want to cool itselfs. So if you think about doing seat time like 10 laps in the row - will not work without. Do you know precisly what is the spec of the compresor and turbine wheel?

Yes oil cooler is definitely on the list, turbo is a 3076r not sure on the exact measurements but you should be able to find it online

Just stock ecu (MS41.1), there are plenty of videos online on how to tune it or you can pay for a remote tune service (from rk tunes, chaos calibrations, etc)

I wouldn’t do this brotha, that material they use on the an fittings won’t withstand multiple oil changes if it doesn’t back up the oil from being at the bottom of the pan

Yep, above the oil level is ideal. Like i said, ive seen others do this without issue so thought id give it a try to see for myself. In theory the level of oil in the drain wont exceed the level in the pan, if it doesnt work out ill just weld a bung higher or in the timing cover.

@@aco.b I would be curious, def a quick solution for to get it running

This was the first orientation i tried, unfortunately it hits the front tub section of the wheel arch with this manifold. Would require having to cut it out and have the piping sit close to the wheels turning radius. It is definitely a potential option down the road if i run into any issues with the current setup.

Thanks! Its an RSI one

Heard great things about both! Cant go wrong with either choice

Will definitely be getting some quality stuff for those lines 🤝

Not too difficult on the stock ecu, plenty of videos online if you want to do it yourself. There are also a few companies that offer remote tuning on stock ecus (rk tunes, chaos calibrations etc)

If you are willing to spend the money, link makes a great ecu and there are pnp adapters!

@@aco.b Their pnp solution doesn't support the M50B25NV on the standard OBD1 harness. (Is what they speak of on their product page) Only supports M50TUB25, which has me questioning if I could run it if I swap over to that harness & sensors, etc.

@8KGarage checkout pnpecu they make an adapter for the non vanos engines

Interesting, ill check with my tuner and see if this is an option. Thanks!

Wont work in any other direction with the manifold and wastegate in the way, yes the cummins metal drain is on my list if I have any issues with this one

Thats next on the list, hopefully goes well!

Thanks! More stuff coming soon

I have some friends with the same setup! Since this is a stock compression 2.8 it actually makes full boost just above 3k! 😄

@@aco.b 0,3 liter more...and on what gear ;) I have personall experiance with m54b25 with stock CR on gt35.30 ar 0,63 (inlet 35, exhaust 30 with waaay smaller AR then you say) and it was waking up on 2nd gear seriously at 5k. Unless you plan to run E85, then ignition will help somehow. For me gt30 with 0,63 will be a bit too laggy for 2,5 but everybody ofcourse has different needs. Ok, will the results :)

​@FaworDrifts a gt35 isn't a gt30. What turbo did you have ? Garrett never put a gt35 compressor on a gt30 turbine. What a/r? Did you forget the fire ring? Your older videos show a gt3582 on a m54b25. This g30 is a lot smaller on a bigger motor. 2.8 's rip compared to a under square 2.5.

@@FaworDrifts please answer on @jasonschreiber6458's comment. (I collecting info to turbo my m54 and can't decide what turbo to get (gt3582r a.r 0.6 or 3076r ar 0.8). My tasks is drift on 2/3 gear dry surface (3.38, ZF320))

@@alexman9062 ok so step by step. Didn't see the answer, have read one more time all. First of all - this car is 2.8??!! I literally thought all the time, that this is m52b25 😅 That changes a lot. But further, answering Jason: ofcourse I'm talking about chineese/polish made turbo, 35.30 came from K64 company. gt3582 in a beater compact with m54b25 on my reel didn't forgot the fire ring :) This turbo is simply waaay too big on both sides to be woken up thru 2,5 fast. Ofcourse gt30 is way smaller. But I come to this conclusion that still too big for B25, cause I have GT30 IN MY B30 and FOR ME is still a bit laggy on 2nd gear. Now directly Alex for you: I'm analysing now how to turbo my missile Wagon with exactly M54B25. Made quite big sheet with comparisons of the wheel sizes in many turbos, from chineese's thru pulsars and oem garretts. Watched a lot of yt movies with turboed B25s. My conclusion: for B25 to have good wake up I would put nothing more then GT3071 with 0,63 AR. Why? Cause people are putting GT30s on AR0,63 for 2Js (Brandon Wicknick loved it). Cause people are putting g25's (Garrets and Pulsars) for 1Js, which are 5mm smaller on turbine wheels then GT30. Cause stock CT15b form single 1jz has almost same hot side as G25 but even waay smaller cold side. I would turbo my b25 even on td05-20g (Scubi 2,5 upgrade turbo), cause is very similar to ct15b, but here you could start to have problems with stock rods..sory, a lot. But a lot to talk about. If you would more, we could contact other way, sory Aco for spam :)

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The manifold is actually an rsi one! But if you are talking about the downpipe I think it may be too big/expensive to ship haha