Відео

Just watch Part 0 before 1 and 2, you will understand more. I hope.

yes those two wires are the data exchange line, probably part of CAN system.

Yes, these calipers come with new banjo bolts and copper washers for stock brake lines. They seem to be the same size as what Honda uses on oem calipers, if I recall it correctly.

It's alright. Looking for a way to remove it completely.

@@maxsam201 are headers legal in your country

In the States it depends what state you are in! California is super restrictive, for example, they do annual emissions checks, you would fail the inspection even if you have a DME re-flush, but state of Virginia as of today does not care much about emissions - I can have headers and other mods without any trouble.

Glad you liked it

I updated the description, you can see it there.

Thanks! Where did you get these numbers from? From googling I’ve seen some people say either 25nm, 28nm or 38nm for the mount bolts.

These were taken from RMEuropean website, but I'm going to look what TIS/ISTA says, to double-check them.

@@maxsam201thanks. The most common numbers I’ve seen is 25nm for the bolts and 47ish nm for the top nut.

🙂

Exact the same situation on this car! There is no way to get that thing out without cutting it with a reciprocating saw, unfortunately.

I managed to heat the head of the bolt both ends and it freed it off enough to turn it- I then tapped it out of the bush and greased it thoroughly 👍

Good! Heat / using a torch usually helps a lot, I should try doing that next time I come across one of these.

Turns off at speed while driving?? or when idling? In any case, it's almost a 0% chance IBS malfunction would cause the engine to shut off. Especially at a speed - when your car is in motion. Are any other codes present?

@@maxsam201 it’s depends ,usually at speed while driving and before when the engine turn off i didn’t feel anything just same than when u press the start/stop button on random time I made a lot of test and only wrote the ibs communication , nothing more fault code Now im thinking what’s wrong 😢

Sounds like something just disconnects electrically - like a loose connection. Battery cables are tight? DME would not turn off the engine at speed if it detects a problem with IBS. But if it shows a fault code for it, I think it needs to be fixed first, before looking anywhere else.

@@maxsam201 now i checked the cables but i don’t have any senzor on negative battery cable , it’s just a regular cable

Interesting. It is not a factory cable?

If you are not taking the battery out completely, disconnecting the negative cable from battery's post is enough to safely work with the starter. But make sure you secure the cable away from the post, so it does not touch it by an accident.

@@maxsam201 ok, thank you.

Foam inserts don't fit with regular e90 bumpers when doing this "upgrade", neither front nor rear. Unfortunately.

That's a good point, I should try vinegar sometime.

Right, there isn't much room for a socket and a torque wrench. Yes, the correct way is to torque the nut, and not the bolt itself - if you're trying to get numbers with the torque wrench. I should probably re-visit this situation and see if anything can be done differently. Personally, I just use a box-end wrench on all of the suspension hardware. Not recommended, but I don't care much anymore lol.

Didn't I mention it somewhere in a description? It's exactly what is installed on these cars from factory - Getrag GS6-17BG.

No drone at all, as far as I can tell. I'm thinking about making another video related to the sound of this exhaust. Stay tuned...

@@maxsam201 debating getting this vs the turner kit w/ muffler. Appreciate the sound clips

I would discourage anyone from getting this exhaust - for daily driven cars in cities/towns, it's really loud. It's better suited for a track car, in my opinion.

I wish I could remember. You just press a tab on it and pull those apart, no?

Thank you. I try. Still need to do a good detailing some time.

oh yeah.. very much educated in : how to share confusion among peers.

I am planning on doing more, thanks!

Hi. There is a few ways of getting it - it can be downloaded and installed on your PC, if you're good at that, or I believe some places sell hard drives with everything pre-installed, that can be swapped into a cheap laptop.

@Chris-707 Hi! Are you talking about INPA or ISTA+? I think Bimmergeeks only provides INPA download, BUT I may be wrong, I should check. Creating a virtual machine on windows 10 isn't difficult, but I suppose it needs to be a tutorial that anyone can follow, to make it easy to complete.

Money 😂

@@CryptoDOZER-b8d Me too

91 only

I would think that any shakes at higher speeds in general are caused by rotational masses - like tires and wheels, in first place. Engine mounts should mainly feel as excessive vibrations, not really related to car's speed. So in your case it seems like something else is making the car shake.

@@maxsam201 i have problems when around 130 km/h and higher Every things in front subframe is new and now its coming from the rear New flex dics new cetner bearing Maybe axle shafts? Bmw e91 320d

@user-sm8hx1zk2v I see. So the wheels and tires are good, not bent and are balanced? I had bad balancing of tires in the past. The next thing is to check if all mounting surfaces are clean - hub's, wheels and brake discs surfaces. Wheel bolts are torqued properly and evenly? After that wheel hub bearings should be checked. After THAT - I would check differential bushings. I'm also assuming that all the control arms are in ok shape? Rear upper rearward control arm has a ball joint on the inner end, that often wears out and starts to exhibit an excessive play. Let me know what you find out!

@@maxsam201 oke thakns

Yeah. That is what I did, it seemed to work.

@oyurcha1 That's how it is, usually, these are driven by the cost of the final product. E9x (especially N52 powered cars) is a low budget car at this point, only M3 still has some value, people are not spending money on expensive "upgrades".

@Cevium I'm working on a video that shows some details of this process, but it's not going to be a step-by-step how-to on building that exact cluster. I'm thinking about doing a separate video just for the rings replacement process.

@Maaaaaax-07 Hi. I'm glad this video is helpful. Front subframe?

👍 nice. But I had a few other brake kits before this 😅 so it's not that noticeable

@jumperxd3465 You are welcome! I'm glad it was helpful. Sweden is awesome 👍

@galainautos4797 The wiring needs to be modified exactly as it's described in my videos (and on bmw forums) - including the clutch switch and then the DME needs to be coded. You can keep automatic transmission wiring harness, but you still have to do those modifications and coding. Your car is not going to be drivable if you don't do that.

I'm glad it helped you! Thank you.

A video about that is coming up soon!

How?

It's pressed against the channel and the inlet. There is no lock on it

That's cool, I've been wanting to buy a 135 for a number of years now... I imagine that 135i being a turbo engine, sounds different with the similar changes to the piping. Thinking about updating midpipes - to get rid of secondary cats. Or I should just move on to N55 or B58.

@@maxsam201 True the turbo makes everything different. There are noticeable differences between the n54 and n55 tones in the 135i. Popular upgrade for n54 135i is to swap mids. the n55 mids don't have secondary cats. people with n55 will take out resonator and put a y pipe. If you have catless the resonator helps with rasp. Some changes make turbo sound louder. I tried catless for 2 months and it was great but the smell got to me so I went with a race cat. I got my n55 6 yrs ago used so It was affordable. Now the b58 is affordable. I would look for a F series if I started over. Only thing I don't like is the steering is electronic instead of hydraulic. B58 can make more power than N55 and probably sounds better.

Cool stuff. I tried the new Supra / Z4 and that car has got power even in stock shape. B58 is probably the way to move forward, but at this point I'm not really sure what to do next.

@@maxsam201 yes b58. n55 is too old. it was good enough for me 6 yrs ago but today i would do s55 or b58.

No droning, it's the sound itself that get a bit too loud at some speeds and RPMs. This resonator is my step #1 in "tuning" the sound, I want to make the exhaust to be a bit less of volume and to sound somewhat unique.

There is no droning!

Hi. I will measure it and make a short video; many people are asking this question.

​@@maxsam201Great, thanks

Thanks!

ACE hardware is still running the sale on it.

Hi. Z4is rotors are 348x30 mm, F30 are 340 mm. Here is BMW Z4is BMW Disc Brake Rotor - Front 34116782593 Brembo Part # 09.C415.13

@@maxsam201 RealOEM says 348x30 for the Z4 35i front rotors. Part #34116782593. Am I missing something? Are these what you used in the video?

I corrected my reply. You are actually right, Z4is uses 348mm rotor, the same as 335i. Non-IS Z4 is 330mm. Sorry. Yes, that's what I used on my car.

Awesome! Thanks for the information.

Thanks! Gas / accelerator pedal is a direct fit, you have to choose the one that has the correct part number for manual transmission. It plugs in, no coding or wiring manipulations is needed.

I think I have a video on linkage rebuilding. Did you search for that video?

@@maxsam201 yes I have been searching for days now 😭

Maybe I never uploaded it :( Sorry. Here is the one that i have ua-cam.com/video/nKbjHHUyC5s/v-deo.html

Could you rephrase it?