Відео

E90 M3 rear sway bar 22.5 mm.

Glad to be of help👍

I'm really considering getting sony 24-50 2.8. PZ 16-35 is a cool lens, especially that internal zoom, i only wish it was something like 2.8 or 3.1

24-50 Sony is the lens i really hoped could replace the 20-40 Tamron. Maybe I should look at Sigma options.

I wanted to buy sony 20-70 f4 but managed to get two new lenses sony 24-105 f4 and tamron 20-40 for cheaper price then 20-70 f4. As I mainly shoot primes and not zoom lenses I though to swap these two lenses for 24-50 2.8. got few days ago and feel disappointment. That tamron feels not bad comparing to 24-50 I was expecting to be 24-50 better. Is tamron 20mm better with distortion comparing to Sony 20-70 is the heavy barrel distortion at 20mm ?

Barrel distortion at 20mm is mild with Tamron and very heavy with Sony 20-70 F4. Tamron 20-40mm is a good lens.

Maybe I had a bad copy. Makes me think that I should buy another one and see what it's like. A heavy distortion on 20-70 Sony is not a good thing, I was really considering it after I got rid of 20-40 tamron. i mainly do videos, btw.

@@maxsam201 I don't do any video. I hear that generally Sony lens is the ones to go for the video. I have no clue to how Tamron 20-40mm performs for video.

@@TheTensecondz that is the general consensus, and is my experience with this 20-40 Tamron.

Are you using it for photography or video work?

@maxsam201 both - mainly vertical video and photo for the hospitality industry for social media

i'm glad it works for you. and wish mine wasn't doing those things i complained about.

May be, but i'm not sure i want to try another Tamron lens at this point haha. On Sony 16-35 f4 - you still have the option to rotate the zoom ring, which is a motorized zoom indeed, no it's not the same as direct mechanical zoom, but it's still a ring? (in addition to the button and the slider)

That is not a good situation!

I'm not that excited about taking chances, especially when it's almost $1,000 in spending,

Exactly.

Glad you liked it!

Sigma, perhaps.

Third-party lenses ruined my life!! I had a family, not anymore!

@@HowDoYouUseSpaceBar Almost the same here!!

If budget is not an issue, then yes. If money is tight, Tamron and Sigma are just as good at a substantial discount.

That's the point I was making in this video - not as good.

@@maxsam201 Not the lens in your video but I tested and considered the Sony 20-70 f4 lens. It had two drawbacks compared to the Tamron 20-40. First, it is f4 vs f2.8 of Tamron Second, it has serious distortion at 20mm end which after correction makes the lens more like a 22mm lens which is another 2mm lost. The lens you are testing here gets great marks but again it is f4. For my use Tamron is perfectly fine. It is stronger on the 20mm end which is where I use it the most. When I get closer to the 40mm end, I switch to my Tamron 50-400 which is a little stronger at 50mm.

Why would you want your car to make those sounds?

yes, It basically indicates that the dme is not getting any expected data from IBS, which could be a faulty communication line (2 wires / can line, there is a connector that could be checked) or the sensor itself is dead. I would be a bit concerned with that random charging fault. Potentially a faulty IBS could produce that fault too. Or the alternator is on the verge of going kaput. hope this helps.

@maxsam201 thank you I've actually found that the sensor has been bypassed so I will have to buy a new wire as the one in place is also damaged, I can't believe the dealership didn't see it

I'm glad you got it figured out!

GS6-17BG

I will mention that in upcoming video, but in essence valves cracked and chunks of them fell off. Than naturally made it to be 0 compression. Now what caused the valves to do that is a good question, we are still guessing.

Yes, I'm fully aware of that. I kept auto diff and I like how it is. Actually wanted to use the Xi differential, that is even shorter, but it requires some additional work to be installed.

It could be stuck sometimes real good. You have to squeeze that ring from 2 sides at the same time, and then try pulling it off. You can help it with a flat screw driver to move the hose away from the manifold.

Secondary air system insufficient flow in bank 1. Meaning in those short seconds when the pump is on at the start, Bank 1 isn't getting enough flow. Have you checked if the passages are clean and not clogged? O2 sensors can be swapped between banks to see if the code follows. Also your catconverter on bank 1 may be blocked and have a restricted flow.

Hey, yeah... I didn't show how it was done, I should have. Used those locking medical pliers to lock onto the clip (the same way when I was removing it) and then lowered it in and located over the pin. Then, I think, while holding it with pliers, I pushed it with a long screwdriver to click on in place, if that makes sense.

@ Gotcha, thanks a lot

10mm plastic nut

Right...

Not a proper tool, but for a one-time-use, it worked.

Turner's website shows tips as an option, the kit itself is one p/n, and then you select the tips separately, or decline to add them to your purchase - if you wish to use your own tips.

Hello. Yes, with a "but" - as far as diametral clearance goes, these fit 14" wheels without issues. But offset / spoke design can be a problem. I have oem wheels and they required 5 mm spacer to clear the face of calipers. Other styles of wheels - oem or aftermarket may have a better fitment, but I don't have anything else to test or try.

Haha, I'm glad you finally got it figured out. And fixed it too?

@@maxsam201 totaly fixed !!

Unfortunately it's been a while now, I can't recall. but the car was not starting properly - which was enough to tell that something was not right.

It is remotely possible in some situations, yes. So the fuse f35 is not blown? Bad IBS also shows as a fault code if checked with a scan tool. Did you check for that? Think it's important to check and see if there is a code stored for a defective IBS. some people advise to default-code new EKPM, if replaced, but if you are not getting power to the module itself, then it's somewhere in the wiring. Let me know how it goes.

⁠@@maxsam201this is my moms e90 which she lives far away from me. I plan on visiting her again to try and fix the car. But to answer your question, fuse is not blown. Which is good. Double checked that. I do remember checking the car to see if there are any codes, I do recall seeing IBS Error or some sort like that and I cleared it. And still no start. My foxwell scanner has a feature to initiate the fuel pump, when I do that, nothing happens. And again, when I connect a 12v to it manually, it primes. I’m not sure why the EKPM is not getting power though. I’m really wondering if it’s the IBS. Or if I damaged it, because after I replaced the fuel pump, car had no more battery to start. So I tried to jump it by using another car. Just cranks. Until I replaced the battery. Still just cranks.

I need to check dimensions on my parts that I have somewhere in a box - to give you exact numbers. But what I remember is that you can't really use any random aftermarket fittings on OEM BMW tubing - there is some plastic jacket on them, so they are not exactly "standard size".

@@maxsam201 that’s what i thought, not sure how to go about it

There is a couple of solutions to this. One is just build a completely new tube / tubes, where you need them to be used, with standard tubing and tube nuts. If you don't want to completely replace the longest 2 tubes - cut them where you can, strip plastic jacket from original BMW tube at about 3" long back, and use standard tube nuts. Next, if you can buy a cheap OEM pre-built brake line, you can use it as OEM tube nut source. cut it and pull OEM nuts off of it, then use on whatever you are fixing. Also, it's possible to ream / bore standard nuts to make them fit over BMW tubing, but I don't think it's a good idea. Hope this helps.

You are welcome!

Hi. If it was on my car, the first thing I would think is that something is not right with the charging of the battery - that is the alternator going out, or something simple like oxidized battery posts, in that line of thinking - that the charging system not working well. If all that checks out good, I would look into other components, including the IBS. IBS is more of a battery status reporting device, in simple terms. I would check if you get about 14V at the battery while the engine is running, if INPA or ISTA or other diagnostic equipment isn't available. Any specific fault codes you could share, associated with that charging malfunction message? Let me know.

That sounds right. Is yours an LCI?

A ship? Like a real full size ship? Some Cerkote is air-cured.

@@maxsam201 Yes I'm talking about a superyacht, the kind of Jeff Bezos yacht where money is no object. As you can imagine caring for a vessel like that is a nightmare. A long lasting coating like Cerakote could be hugely beneficial. On vessels like that you have fairly inexperienced deckhands dragging hose pipes across paintwork, totally oblivious to the damage they're causing. I'll do some research, air cured Cerakote might do the trick.

@@And-rc9yy I see. But there are plenty of MIL-spec or similar paints, powder coating, hard-coat anodizing (if parts are aluminum) etc. Cerakote is really thin, and air cured may not be strong enough for your application.

Glad I could help

It's called ADD W1 air breather filter www.addw1.com/products/air-filter-breather?variant=21554116821110&country=US&currency=USD&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0MG5BhD1ARIsAEcZtwQKm3W5gmlqkeyxWYvnp05AJ5Uq-dKHXvRvR25BgyNFz6ObyIywXAAaAlxLEALw_wcB

Hey, I don't have any drawings at this point. I could create something similar to what I have featured in that video.

@@maxsam201ok tanks

Also, if you have any questions, my email is in the channel's description or somewhere there.

So you got one like that too? I don't think it can cause overheating, don't see how. It's highly unlikely. But an improperly sealed air filter can let large particles get inside of the cylinders and cause damage, I would be worried about that.

here is one option www.turnermotorsport.com/p-587611-trailing-arm-bushing-tool-set/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwm5e5BhCWARIsANwm06jDabDMf9cMhXHI_zmB-Dp46lCVpDKxtIMJe-unuVH20r4VwTKHo-UaAqptEALw_wcB makes sense to rent it, if you are DIY, not a repair shop.

I don't have a personal experience with E60 chassis, but there for sure is a blue connector on the negative terminal wiring. it may be hidden in the harness and wrapped in cloth tape. if you look through this article you may get some ideas - bmwrepairguide.com/bmw-e60-battery-sensor-failure-repair-2004-2010-5-series-all-models/

i would think about 3ft, imagine a distance from the bottom of the front bumper to the hood.