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Saw Chain Theories
Приєднався 19 лют 2010
Stihl 23RS Pro VS 23RM Pro. 325 Narrow kerfs MS250
Stihl 325 narrow kerfs - 23RSPRO (full chisel) and 23RM Pro (semi chisel). Both chains are very fast cutting when compared to normal 325 chains.
Saw is a MS250 16 050 Oregon speed cut bar
Saw is a MS250 16 050 Oregon speed cut bar
Переглядів: 233
Відео
Chainsaw cutting at 1,000 frames per second
Переглядів 70512 годин тому
One of the attempts at recording this. Chains is a Windsor 325 skip
Stihl and Husqvarna chain numbering explained
Переглядів 131День тому
What all those numbers and letters mean
Stihl MS461 Carlton square A3LM
Переглядів 680День тому
461 starting to earn its keep after coming home in a box of parts
.325 VS .325 Narrow kerf. Husqvarna SP33G v S35G
Переглядів 54714 днів тому
Comparing the Husqvarna SP33G, 325 narrow kerf chain against the S35G full size chain
The easiest cutting of 2024
Переглядів 1,1 тис.14 днів тому
Compared to the hard, dry stuff i normally cut, this was the softest, easiest things I cut in the past year
Stihl / Pferd 2 in 1 sharpener. Tension your chain
Переглядів 19821 день тому
What happens if you don't follow step 1 of the instructions? Let's be honest, we have all done this
Chain filing - 1000 Frames per second
Переглядів 21421 день тому
Didn't know my camera could do this. This is 1 second of video at 1000 FPS
Chainsaw self-feeding. Hardwood vs very hardwood
Переглядів 51021 день тому
Why don't we stand up and buck here? This is why
$17 Stihl MS170 - Walbro WT-215 first run. 91VXL
Переглядів 26428 днів тому
Not bad for 17 bucks. First time running with new rings, adjustable carb, muffler mod and a few other improvements. Running a 52DL 3/8LP 050 Oregon VXL chain
Chainsaw chain - How it cuts and side plate angle
Переглядів 8 тис.Місяць тому
Just a basic overview of what happens when a cutter enters wood and why effect side plate angles has on how it cuts
Chainsaw kerf - 325NK, 325, 3/8. 23RS pro, RM pro, SP33G
Переглядів 574Місяць тому
Measuring the kerf widths of new chains and the bar width differences of NK bars
Stihl small, mid and large size saws
Переглядів 2,5 тис.Місяць тому
Stihl small, mid and large size saws
Chain grinding - base tilt / offset grinding
Переглядів 1,3 тис.Місяць тому
Chain grinding - base tilt / offset grinding
Same chain for multiple saws. Will it fit the 880? 66DL 3/8
Переглядів 4832 місяці тому
Same chain for multiple saws. Will it fit the 880? 66DL 3/8
Depth gauge / rakers part 2. The shape
Переглядів 8552 місяці тому
Depth gauge / rakers part 2. The shape
Setting depth gauges, rakers, drags. Chain tension effect
Переглядів 5232 місяці тому
Setting depth gauges, rakers, drags. Chain tension effect
Stihl semi chisel skip chain (46RMF). MS461 update
Переглядів 4762 місяці тому
Stihl semi chisel skip chain (46RMF). MS461 update
Splitting Australian hardwood. Husqvarna sledge axe
Переглядів 7893 місяці тому
Splitting Australian hardwood. Husqvarna sledge axe
Chain grinding. I'm an idiot, matching the file shape
Переглядів 6953 місяці тому
Chain grinding. I'm an idiot, matching the file shape
Chain sharpening - File tilt and diameter
Переглядів 3,1 тис.3 місяці тому
Chain sharpening - File tilt and diameter
Chainsaw file's part 2 - same size but different?
Переглядів 4833 місяці тому
Chainsaw file's part 2 - same size but different?
ua-cam.com/video/-xjYAMwWzj0/v-deo.htmlsi=ku0g6qRiFos_h1bE&t=34 S35G is grinded 1 wheel(1pass) with 2 round files in the factory. 1 round file for gullet(Chip Flow) and another gullet for the top of depth gauge(to add Slider). Husqvarna may doesn't apply this production way to SP33G.
Thank you! All in all, this 8-9% difference is in line with, for example, the 8% difference found by Vallorbe on their test stand with an electric saw (probably 3/8 LP). What does the corner look like in RM Pro according to you? More like a true (Oregon) semi chisel or a chamfer chisel like the previous .325 RM?
@@elpolaco7654 I will show a video of the 2 chains in the next few days. It is almost impossible to pick them apart. They are really pushing the limits of what a semi chisel is with the RMP. Both of these things are very fast. I need to break down the SP33G to compare them on the same saw. It's incredible how good some of these 325 semis have become
Missed opportunity. Could have cut more aggressively and shown the cutters moving slow.
First try at this. Still working out the camera settings required to capture this so the next attempt will show things better
,,S" is for sprint
Raker height is uneven tooth to tooth. Interesting video though
Incest chris stole my long bar, karma Will follow
It looks like most of the cutters are missing the wood
First attempt at doing this and used a very light feed pressure to see what happens. Hopefully the next attempt will show more detail and I'll just dig it in there
Great information! Is this information found in one of their yearly product magazines? The layout reminds me of purchasing an electric motor starter enclosure or similar. Each segment of the part number has a meaning. Thank you for putting this out there. ~Dr. C.
@@ChainsawHospital I learnt it the hard way but if you Google "Stihl chain selection chart" you should find a PDF that has all the meanings listed. It's confusing at first and they now use 2 different numbering systems to add to the confusion. You can still order using both systems, this older setup is more useful for larger amounts (rolls) the new one is aimed more at buying pre made loops in boxes. It would be nice if all the manufacturers had a more universal system but at least chain is easier to figure out than everyones bar mounting codes
I used to be a knuckle cutter until I started using less pressure. To add, if the file isn’t filing well, time for a new one😁
Snow storm
It happens
@@ChainsawUsers so far it's the only major injury I have had from a saw and with any luck, it will stay the only one Can report that a square chain does leave a very clean cut, no tearing, just a clean slice
Haven't we all a tale to tell, let's be honest! Im notorious nicking my pants,hence the leg protection 😅
@@SawChainTheories nothing happens to the dead
i also figured that out the hard way. hope it all heals well, you will have a permanent reminder for next time
I should be ok from here and yep, I have a few of those reminders on me. Just none from doing this until now
I think if u engaged the wood with a flat parallel horizontal bar it would show the cutters being pulled in & out of the wood. Maybe a few piss revs out of the wood to see the centrivucal force have the chain leave the bar in the middle and get pulled back in. And maybe slow the speed down. But interesting footage, no need to listen to the armchair quarterback here...
I'll play around with it more at some stage this was just testing the idea because I didn't know the camera could do this. I want to try using a older 08s. Bigger cutters (404) and low clutch engagement speed might help capture something
ua-cam.com/video/jxzHY90B1Bk/v-deo.html slow mo is from 2:25
Thank you! Thats what I always wanted to capture and somehow, I have never seen this before
@ URL is opened for only who knows it. That's STIHL style.
@@hn20281 Don't get why they would do it but I'm very glad you sent the link
@@SawChainTheories This video demonstrates well that the chip size observed in cross-cutting is almost completely independent of the movement of the chain from and to the bar ("rocking motion"), because the chip breaks into smaller pieces very easily during the process of its formation.
@@SawChainTheories it's my pleasure. i support sawchain from far east jp
That is sick. Thanks for your time and effort
jeeze i figured 1000 frames would be slow enough to see what the teeth were doing. i think we need an even slower video
@@AA-tb4ff yep, I thought the same. That's 1.8 seconds of footage, 1000FPS played back at 25fps and it's nowhere near slow enough to see anything important. I think 10k is probably the range required
@@SawChainTheories Wow, thats less than two seconds of footage. Man those chains are flying.
@@SawChainTheories Thanks for your time and effort! I already wrote that the researcher here in general used a chain speed of 17.6 m/s with a professional 1000 fps camera (FasTec InLine 1000), but had to slow down the engine to 6k rpm to see the chip formation process. This camera speed was not sufficient to confirm some of the phenomena occurring during cutting. I still have this idea: my phone has the ability to manually set the shutter to 1/10000 sec. I think probably yours also has at least this possibility. Of course, this will require a really large amount of light to sufficiently illuminate the scene.
@@elpolaco7654The next attempt will be using an old 08s because of the low chain speed. Hopefully it will capture something. It needs so much light for this to work. I can only do it on a bright sunny day with the sun in the right spot
@@SawChainTheoriesI just wondered why the 1000 fps camera was enough for him to capture the movement of the cutters quite well, because at a chain speed of 17.6 m/s the links travel a distance of 1.76 cm in 1/1000 s, which would mean a total blurring of the video/images (like in your video). The matter cleared up when I looked at the camera's manual. It has the ability to change the shutter speed for all fps values. The largest factor is 20x (0.05), that is, for video recorded at 1000 fps at the 20x factor setting, we get 1/1000 s / 20 = 1/20000 s (.000050 s) frames. That is, in simple terms, we can say that he was actually using a 20000 fps camera.
Looks to be nice cutting mate.To hot for me,getting old and soft lol
@@daviddenyer756 I don't cut much in the summer but you get a few good days here and there. Snakes are a little too active for me this time of year as well
Cryptic bullshit. I would not of done it that way crazy
With all the chains I guess we only need 3 chains skip semi and full all other variaints only add say 5 to 10 % gain
Luckily the majority of people don't ever need to know this. They will return to their dealer, tell them the saw and bar they are using and what they are cutting, then buy whatever chain is recommended by either the dealer or from the book. I like the variations, there's big gains to be had if you can find the right combination for what's being done
If the roller guide for .325 pitch, .058 inch chain is making 'the top plate angle' closer to 70 degrees, rather than sixty. Here is what I'd say. Use the roller with one or two round file passes. To attempt to tidy up any badly damaged top plates, and regularize the top plate back to consistent 30 degree cutter angles. And then having made use of the roller first to put some discipline on your top plates condition. I understand then, one's top plates may be too dull, not having a sixty degree edge. Take away the roller guide, and manually using the same round file, rub some metal off the underside of the top plate to edge it some more. Guides probably will all have this same drawback, of giving you too flat an angle of 70 degrees to the tooth edge. But it's not a bad thing, . . as it enables you to tidy up your top plates first. And then go back again, and put serious edge on them. When it comes to .325, I'll actually use a flat file period, to straighten out my top plates, and go back underneath the top plate again using a round file to re-introduce the blade edge to the top plates. Whether it's a flat file, or a round file on a guide that holds the round file too high, doesn't really matter. But it's nice to be able to quickly converge on a consistent 30 degree angle, and tidy up the metal on all one's top plates first. And then decide how sharp (and as a consequence, how weak), to go with the final edge.
I've run quite a fair bit of 3/8 inch semi chisel on 85cc saw tools, . . and heck, that's a chain I end up doing a lot if re-sharpening of in the field. Niw that I think of it, I run the wide and narrow kerf on a 550 XP Husky saw, . . and not only does my fuel tank last longer. You are correct, the .325 inch chain in both kerf's is forgiving too. I don't have to sharpen as much, as the saw tool at 50cc doesn't have the power to get the chain as banged up, as the 80cc plus tool does. Here's what I will say, I was happy working at around 65cc saws for a long while, until I moved up several engine power notches to 80cc plus. And when I do think about it, yes I did lack for some power in the saw at 65cc. But running the 3/8 inch chain in fairly decent sized timber, I think I had to re-sharpen with the 65cc far less than I do nowadays with 85cc. The problem with 65cc was that you'd nearly need two saws with you for heavier work, . . as that 65cc saw tool can start to cook itself up, by running too many fuel tanks through it, whilst working it hard. The 85cc can prove more durable, as once isn't always running it 'in the red'. But precisely because 65cc didn't have power, the chain edge did last longer on it. That can be a huge thing, when you get down into smaller wood. The old saws used .404 pitch chain, and while I haven't run it, I know it was strong enough, it took a lot to blunt .404 altogether. I'm not sure if anything any more runs the .404 pitch.
What I'm saying I guess, is with smaller chainsaws with less power output, yes they do hold edge on the chain cutters a lot longer. So it's not the chainthat becomes spent as quickly. But what can happen, is the saw tool itself can cook, if you're running it all day with no break. There's a balance that has to be considered, between the lasting of the chain, and the lasting of the saw itself.
Great cut🤩 Is this hard wood?🤔
@@shinichirohida2556 Yes, it's a type of eucalyptus. The common name is stringy bark and it's been down for a few years now. The chain held up well
I too found the minimal difference in cut speed interesting. Like you said, over 10 percent width is a lot compared to the close margins in cut time. Thanks. ~Dr. C.
Indeed, the roller guides for the two chains are different. Normally I would write the part numbers here, but YT doesn't like numbers in comments. Still probably a generally known fact, but also the roller guides for Husqvarna's own chains (X-Cut) have changed compared to the previous ones for Husqvarna's previous chains (Hxx), which were sourced from Oregon.
@@elpolaco7654 The listing I can find here show the same (yellow) guide for S35G, C33 and C35. The SP33G guide is only listed for the one chain as far as I can tell. The guide has to much side to side movement on the NK narrow tie straps. Completely unexpected, the difference in width is the tie straps thickness. The drive links are 1.5mm above the tie straps to the top, thinned below. I'm struggling to find any other info of people comparing the NK to full width chains. I'm surprised by the lack of difference between them and I'm not sure if this was a one off thing or if it's normal. Have you seen any other info on this? For reference the 95TXL averaged 12.7 seconds for the same cuts
@@SawChainTheories This is more logical and in line with the data on their website. My source was the manual for the new saw (2024). It looks like there is (another) error there. What scares me is the number of errors in the documents whether Stihl or Husqvarna... By the way, I found that Husqvarna's recommended grinder head angle (X-Cut, Hxx) is, like the Oregon, 55°. EDIT: This Husqvarna document, from which I took the angle values, turned out to be another nonsense produced by these companies. There is more sensible data in another (more reliable I guess) document: 55°/10° for Hxx chains (except 3/8 LP ofc) and 60°/0° for X-Cut chains. I have not seen meaningful comparisons between these chains. I find yours the most reliable.
Great information🧐 Thank you!
Interesting in the UK the X-Cut .325 chains have just been released in 050 and 058 in full chisel unguarded. I normally run Stihl RS it is a bit soon for me to decide they are both excellent chains. looking forward to your next 325 test.
@@patrickvennard838 The C33 and C35 are available over here now as well. I might try them at some stage but I'm happy with how the semi chisels are running on the smaller saws. If they have another 2 for 1 deal at some stage I'll probably buy them
I appreciate that Husqvarna has introduced X-Cut .325/.050 chains for sale in Europe. Of course, the .325/.050 Pixel version has been available for a very long time, as Husqvarna has been equipping saws with rebranded Oregon chains. And Oregon Type 95 was available back in the 1990s. I hope that maybe some day they will also introduce (full) .375/.050, because due to the almost complete lack of presence of .050 (not mini/LP/Picco) on the European market, I have accumulated a stock of .050 chain practically for free. Getting guide bars for it isn't easy though. Of course, Stihl's previous chains (RS and otherwise) .325/.050 are different from the current (Pro) ones. The C33 is not classified as a Pixel/Narrow Kerf, unlike the 23 RS Pro.
@@elpolaco7654 Thats a shame about the guide bars. We cant get 3/8 bars in anything other than 058 or 063 easily or cheaply.
Good job,good video.
Is this a g288?
@@bartektwardowski Yes it's a 288
Your channel is truely a teaching channel you have answered 50 years of chainsaw question that I have had.
People were kind enough to help me so I'm happy to pass it on. Glad it's been some help to you
What is that log acacia?
@@henrybarker1159 Not sure. Looked to be some kind of eucalyptus but didn't ID it Everything in that area was really nice to cut because they grew on the edge of a clearing so lots of sunlight, water and good soil means rapid growth
I've long resisted buying Chinese clone saws despite them being so tempting with Aussie retail pricing for OEM. That blue saw looks like fun.
@@aussiehardwood6196 Took some work (Meteor cyl, piston, carb rebuild) but that thing has been my favourite all year. Always wanted a big husky but couldn't justify the price so got that instead. It's big, heavy and looks like a suitcase but the ergonomics of it fit me well. It also sounds awesome
@@SawChainTheoriesIt looks like a 372xp clone. Am I right?
Yes 372xp platform/chassis. If I was to get a clone like that I too would replace carb with OEM, dawgs, kill switch, meteor piston, perhaps work with the jug if it wasn't terrible.but most are. Then you could have a saw that should be reliable-ish 😅
@@ToddAdams1234 It's a 288 clone
So it’s like cutting with the grain 😮
What kind of wood is that hard stuff? Like straight dust coming off of there! I recently kind of noticed a similar thing trying to buck up some frozen red oak that has been laying on the ground soaking up water for approximately 5 yrs. We had a cold snap since the last time I ran the saw and boy I thought my chain was like brand new. Seemed to be just dust coming off of it and I wasn’t sure if it was my depth gauges or if I should reduce my top plate angle…. Good video!
Its common name is stringy bark and it's not really that hard in comparison to other species of eucalyptus. This one grew in hard conditions, was old and has completely dried out making it extremely hard to cut. Normally they don't put up this kind of fight, but it happens sometimes
Been pushing my 18v Dewalt to cut too big a logs lately, bough a file, didn't improve much, gave it another touch up, still not what it should be doing. Couldn't find a flat file, so flap disk on the grinder it was to bring down the depth gauges. She's taking out lovely chips and storming through the New Zealand Christmas trees now Battery saws have come a long way, light enough to use one-handed, power to cut a 200mm branch efficiently. 54v Recip is brilliant for cutting roots.
Long bars and soft wood on the West Coast I have filed past the witness mark on many chains with no issues. I’ll just cut off really thin teeth. But I am only a hobbyist really. I can see other circumstances causing issues. Great video and great tips, detail and explanation giving me a better insights on chains. Definitely a niche video but very much appreciated.
1000 fps would be enough to film how the chain cuts depending on various parameters. Just 1000 fps was used by a researcher here about 10 years ago to study how a saw chain driven by an internal combustion (reciprocating) engine behaves. However, he reduced the engine speed to 6000 rpm, because 1000 fps is not that much when the engine speed exceeds 10000 rpm. You can, of course, rent cameras with large higher fps. I would like to use such a camera someday to film the differences (or rather confirm them) between a chainsaw with an electric motor and a combustion (reciprocating) engine. However, my curiosity is not high enough to justify the very high cost of renting such a camera.
@@elpolaco7654 I tried multiple times today and unfortunately it's just not enough. I would need to reduce the chain speed and feed pressure dramatically to be able to capture anything meaningful. I will try again if I can find a saw with a reduced chain speed but for now I'm out of ideas to try
Thank you for the video. I've already written about this under some previous video, that in my opinion the real pivot point is where the cutter link rests against the bar rail as it starts to lift up when entering the wood due to the top plate clearance angle. Normally this point is behind the center of the rear rivet. This can be seen in your video, where the "dead zone" is just there more or less. Of course, where exactly this point is in relation to the rivet (and the end of the cutter/top plate) will depend on the type of chain/cutter link.
@@elpolaco7654 I think that is the better way of explaining this. It pivots off the heel of the cutter because it's the part that is in contact with the bar rail. It's also part of why this changes with different chain brands, the design and angles of the heel are different
@@SawChainTheories Agreed. Thanks!
Fascinating look at the geometry and physical impact during cutting. Thank you!
It’s so important!
👍🙋♂️
Merely curious, did you attempt to measure the difference in side plate angle between the two tensions?
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 No and I also stupidly didn't mark that cutter so I can't go back and check easily. I'll do it again when I get a chance and follow up
@@SawChainTheories Just another good excuse to make another good video!!!
Good tip thanks
Excellent explanations. Thanks Brother!
Thanks, I'm surprised by the response to this. Did not think anyone would be interested in this stuff
Nice now I know why some of my chains dont self feed right when almost wore out and why some newer chains have shorter cutter lengths where the cutter ends close to the rivet. If the cutter ends at the rivet there's no need to lower the depth gauges extra when it's past it, you get less chain life but easier sharpening. I use the husky progressive gauge but it's not perfect and I need to take extra off when the cutter is back past the rivets. All my buddies free hand file the depth gauges simply taking a swipe off when it's not self feeding right.
Thanks. I'm surprised so many people were interested in this
What I have noticed about chainsaw tooth geometry is there are some slight variations on the top plate backward sloping angle most vary from 9° to 11° and the back rivit pivot point where is placed almost half way in the middle of the cutter on many chains not all though. So again it's really hard to compare one chain against another chain. There are very slight variations. And this happens with top plate cutting angle v top plate angle v side plate angle. In the end you must find what works for you and your saw and the wood you cut
@@ChainsawUsers I cut a lot of this out but using the Carlton 404 as an example There were 7 different file plates to suit their 7 404 chains. B3S, B3LM and B3EP all have different depth gauge heights and shapes. All have different top plate clearance angles. Ranging from 4.5 to 8 degrees. All required different amounts to be removed maintain the correct ratio. Long story short, it's complicated. This is also the issue I have with the angle of attack idea, it may be correct for some chains but it's not universal. Hopefully this can help explain why different progressive tools give different results
If a cutter is cutting wood then it has and attack angle. If I hold a carpenters chisel and use it, the the angle at which I hold it is called an attack angle. So when the chainsaw chain cutter and raker touch the timber, it's always referred to as an attack angle.
@@ChainsawUsers But should it's depth gauge be set by its, 1) Attack angle 2) The amount the corner rises That is the 2 different progressive depth gauge theories. They possibly overlap in some situations, in others they are very different. Was carlton right in his thinking of did he miss an important part of this? They didn't make any reference of maintaining an angle and their tools (the ones I have used, there are many I have not) did not maintain a fixed angle. Like a constant gauge, the angles changed as the cutter wore back. I can't answer most of these questions because there are too many variables, but from trying this I lean more towards Carlton's idea being correct. I can also see there are chains where none of this is required because the difference is so small
After watching this I’m thinking I’d like you to sharpen my chains! I will now be shaping my depth gauges, cheers. Good vid
Thanks but I have sharpened enough to last me a lifetime 😂
No boring.
Wasent boring at all i really enjoy the deep dive info id like to see more like this
@@tdm8817 I might have to do this again but I will try to make it more interesting by demonstrating some of these things. It won't happen for a month or 2 but I'll get there soon
@SawChainTheories cool I look forward to that, I've been learning more about how chains actually cut and trying to wrap my head around the concept. It fascinating to me and as with anything it seems that the more you learn about a topic the more you realize how deep the rabbit hole goes. I'm on the other side of the world from you and it's cool to see how you set up your chains vs mine cutting pine.
Very informative and helpful information 😊
Thanks
Good video to technical for me
@@Larry-hi1ri Out of everything I said the most important part is, use a tool to set your depth gauges and round off the front edge of the gauge after lowering it. The rest really doesn't matter to most people, it's just the technical part of how they work
@ thanks never rounded mine off I will now
Very cool! I zoomed in a bunch and was checking out the individual metal shavings. Nice work. ~Dr. C.
Do you think the geometry can be replicated with a hexa file? It has almost the same angle as a double bevel file where the side plate cutters and top plate cutters meet.
@@Fogyt121 I have tried, no it cant
@@SawChainTheories and what was the result?