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great help -have this issue on my 1969 E Type Series 2

You can buy new ones. Death of a car by a thousand cuts. Bit by bit their originality undermined until you are left with a frankencar

Hi, I am interested to know if those hotter plugs are still working well. Thanks.

Lovely car ....i too have a 420 man/od

Mine has no compression release.

Is the backlight always necessarily the problem when you are getting the 3 red blinks error code? Got one now that's throwing up the 3 blinks.

Great video. Would you ever consider the oil pressure mechanical conversion kit. They are a bit pricey but very accurate.. GN

Hi Mark. Great video. Would you not consider fitting a mechanicaloil pressure conversion kit.. GN

I have a similar issue on a MK2 but not sure it is the same thing. Been through the same process as you. Were there any times when the noise changed when driving. Hot/cold, under load or trailing throttle. Thanks

Great to see you teaching how to drive a REAL car. Didn't need the crappy music at the end

Perfect session of mansplaining.

Thanks for sharing

Lovely car, runs sweet. Regarding shims, at a classic jag workshop, we had a fixture to allow using a bench grinder, to reduce thickness of shims, generally minor adjustments, thous. Obviously not ideal, but it works 👍

I am having the same problem with my 50R6E except I did have a standby light and it just flashes 2-3 times anytime i try to power on, and I replaced the power and main board i have the a new tcon coming tomorrow but it still hasn't worked. When I tested the power board everything reads at about the 12 or 3v that its listed at. The pins on the main when connected read the same so I'm guessing energy flow is good. I just can't for the life of me figure out whats wrong but at this point with replacing the power and main will be replacing the t con tomorrow if that doesn't work the only thing left is the ribbons, the LEDs and the screen right? Any advice or help is GREATLY appreciated brother.

A very clear video and well filmed, but surely the relative height of the carbs isn't the problem. The float should automatically regulate the fuel level irrespective of height of carb. Nevertheless, you did have different levels and your remedy seems to have improved things. SU cars are quite eccentric!.... Tim, owner of XK 120

I've been pushing spanners on & off for 50 yrs & I just bought a MK2 project car , the more I work on it the more I like it , these Jags were so well built I marvel at some of the bits on these old girls , they really are a pleasure to work on

Interesting video I owned a 1966 Mk 10 4.2 Liter with the BorgWarner transmission with the SU Triple Carbs I thought the 420G also had three carbs anyway the main thing is to have the SUs perfectly balanced otherwise you can get misfire back through the carbs the best way to achieve this is to listen to the vacuum in the carbs a piece of dowel wood about 18 inches long place against the body you will hear the vacuum adjust the carbs till you are salified they the same also make sure the jet is centered and the springs are the same length I think you be much happier with a three carb set up good luck Andy Allen

Liked the Bee gees bit at the start. been watching a few of your vids.I run a MK2 3.4 with HD6 carbs. I have a couple of questions around the starter carb. Do you know if the front or the back carb feeds the starter carb? Also what about fuel level in the starter carb tubes is it in all tubes. Something T=that would be great is you showing us how to get the dam twin carb plenum off. The inside nuts are murder. Is there an easy way.. James Scotland

Hi, Great video. Well explained and very clear. Can I ask at ( 2.20 on vid) what that brass looking lifting/pushing pin is for, in between 2 screws next to the black (is it AED choke unit)? As I also have that on my 1969 XJ6. HD8 carbs. Lovely sounding engine your car! Cheers.

Nice car. I had the Daimler Sovereign in the UK back in the eighties. It was an old car even then. Now have a '63 3.8 Mk 2 with an oil pressure issue which brought me to your useful videos. I filled the sump and the filter housing with 20/50's and attached a manual gauge to the sender fitting. Turning the engine over briefly on the starter with the plugs out gives no reading. Does the oil pump drain over time and need priming or should I just turn it over for a minute on the starter? Of course I now have to strip the carbs again to do the puff test! Every day's a school day.

Dude I've got the exact same issue. I hope it's just the prv🤞

I curious if the rest of your suspension is stock. I went on the Jag Forums and got all kindza different answers from all these bitchy old rich fux. 😁 My 420's suspension seems to be in great condition, but has more body roll than I thought a Jaguar would have. Didn't think it would have more roll than my '68 Plymouth Fury!

I had a 73 open Husky and the first time I tried to start it it almost ruined my ankle from kick back. I figured out how to save my ankle after that. I stood on the left side of the bike, using my right foot, just letting the front of my foot push against the kickstarter, I snapped it down sharply letting my foot slip off the kickstarter. The spin was faster and it usually kicked right off. But I didn't have to worry about kickback as my foot was on the ground by the time the kick came.

It looks like you have XJ (1968 and on)cams and not pre 1968 cams. XJ cams are identified by two means. Firstly the number of holes in the driving flange at the front end of the cam. Up until sometime in the 70's(possibly up until the series 2 XJ6 - memory fails me here!)) there were only two holes drilled, likewise for the vernier driving piece that engages with the cog/chainwheel that connects the timing chain to driving the cam and through which the camshaft is ultimately bolted to. The post 1968 camshafts with two holes were identified with a groove around the periphery of the camshaft driving flange, early camshafts had no such groove. The later cams and verniers had four bolt attachment/connection with no peripheral groove. I see at 6:17 the four bolt pattern of vernier and camshaft flange - you have XJ6 camshafts in that engine. Here' s the thing and the difference. The early, two bolt, ungrooved cams ran valve clearances of 0.004" inlet and 0.006" exhaust. The later two bolt , grooved and four bolt ungrooved cams ran valve clearances of 0.012"- 0.014" for inlet and exhaust. Either cams fitted in these engines, with valve clearances set accordingly will run fine. Get the valve clearances mixed up and things will not be so pretty. The XJ6 camshafts had what was called a 'parabolic" grind to try to eliminate tappet noises. The lift, duration, and overlap of each type is ostensibly the same. The 420's were the pinnacle and the best of the leather and wood Jaguars. This car should be running UM needles. Stumbles can be attributable to unsychronised carburettors and/or faulty ignition. The oil in the piston dampers needs to be 20/50weight, same as in the engine,if you use lighter oil it will cause a lean condition on acceleration. The "weight" of the oil effectively acts as the accelerator pump. Do not underestimate the abilities of those that designed, tested, sold and guaranteed these vehicle when new. The intake system is sound and will take a lot of time and effort to improve on. Originally these cars had copex tube connected to the air filter inlet to get cooler air entering the air filter. Lazy mechanics didn't bother to keep this installed. The parts book reveals all this. The tachometers are adjustable via a potentiometer on the circuit board.

Wich wheels do you use ?

G'day mate, I thought I'd give you the part number for the cam chain tensioner tool, factory P/N is JD2B or the other number it goes under is SBS1265 ... if you ever get a seized adjuster you won't have a hope in hell doing it without this tool, if the tensioner is free, you can almost adjust it with your fingers. The reason why most people over tighten them is because they hear a chain rattle and think they need to keep laying into the adjuster more, however they don't realize there's another chain the drives between the crank and the cam gears which is the culprit, that top chain only drives between the cam lay gear and the cams themselves, cheers

I put some LiquiMoly Cera Tec into my 1966 3.8S and the hot oil pressure at around 2000rpm has gone up from below 30 to above 40. I think the additive may have cleaned out the oil pressure relief valve or at least stopped it sticking when hot.

Possibly that small plastic piece, could be from the timing chain guides ?

My Hilux 3rzfe might be be doing this... Thanks

Well done!

I made an interesting discovery on my 420 I found all the mounting holes for a rear stabiliser bar. I'm curious which one will fit .thanks for the video

I just went on ebay..you can buy new ones... Did you know that the brake lights have an oil pressure switch to operate..... Weird hey.

Thanks for the video. ignorance is 😊 ☺ bliss

I own & love these classic Jags. Goodluck with your project, AND it's nice to see a young guy who has selected a very different vehicle to invest their time into. So, in 1975 I bought a 1965 4.2ltr mk10 it was a LHD car that had belonged to our Aussie boss of the World Health org' in Geneva Switzerland. He had a stroke & they sent him wife & kids back home to Ashfield in Sydney. Unfortunately, they arrived back with 18months before all LHD cars had to be off our Aussie roads nationally. So, with 15 months to go before d'day I bought this fantastic 10yr old 52000k's car as a 19 yr old I could only afford it as it was cheap as a LHD car with an impending short life. However, a with 2 months to go before d'day I found a "ratty" 1968 420G that old English people brought to Australia but was too far gone to get registered, however it harvested all the RHD gear I needed & with the help of my just retired engineer grandad we did the RHD component swap in my midyear uni break, when doing the changeover I used the donor car dash with instruments still in the woodwork, and kept the original Kilometers speedo. I used it daily and it went from Bilgola plateau to Sydney uni each day & up to my little historic project house at Bathurst every friday night. When I'd racked 200,000miles I sold it as someone made a keen offer. Plus, in the meantime I had already bought a rare long wheelbase series 1 xj6, I kept that 32years, and sold it in 2012 when I bought an Aussie delivery 1967 mk10/420G, one owner being sold by grandnephew on uncles passing away. Car had mere 50,000miles on it same colours as my '65 model mk10 decades ago, cream paint and deep dark maroon "oxblood" leather. Having kept my '65 mk10's kilometres speedo, I fitted that to my "new" 1967 car for convenience now there are so many speed cameras to record your every move. RE the exhaust, ex-factory or, Brysons Motors here in Australia they could be equipped from new with a 2" Lukey "neva-russ" non shiny stainless steel performance exhaust that when under acceleration spring loaded baffles open inside the mufflers letting pressure out, this was a rarely selected option and knowing this when I sold my first one I kept this whole exhaust system that just clamps together, went to a wreckers and bought a decent standard exhaust from a wreck, fitted that to the '65 & sold it. I also kept the Koni gas shocks I'd bought when going to uni for my'65, as they had cost me 4 weeks casual pay as a young uni student. I fitted both those & the exhaust to my "new" '67 model the 2 bits of equipment transformed the car, the exhaust let it breathe under load and the shocks stop the bouncy ride & rolly polly handling on bends. When the baffles open the "beast" comes alive the car emits this fantastic growling droning sound like a racing car, my car's an automatic, so if you manually use the type 8A automatic & hold 2nd, or 1st gear before upshifting people will look around to see what the hell's coming. It puts a contented happy smile on your face every time you do it. Both my '65 & my '67 have both been high output bronze head engined cars giving more "punch" than a normal alloy head car. So now I'm in my late 60's however my car gives the same pleasure as my first one did 48 years ago as a 19yr old. And although I liked my LWB xj6 it was a cheaper and not as well made, designed or built as the 2 big mk10/420G's.

I tried on a husaberg 400 fe and it destroyed my ancle and its been 2 years still healing. I fixed the electric start and then sold it. Promised i would never try that again. And now i bought a husaberg 600 wich does not have a electric start that works. So im either gonna need to split engine or watch this video 10 times and go start it by kick. I have a 250 Husqvarna wich is 2 stroke and im not afraid of that so i should be ok, but i need to grow a pair and put on my boots until i have it by muscle memory like you. :) Thanks

Love the 420 mate! Better looking than the S-Type, I'm a Brit in North Devon and have a nice, Solid 1964, 3.8 MK2, The engines dropped a valve so i am plopping in a late XJ6 4.2 EFI big valve on 2" SU's whilst i sort the 3.8 motor out, It will be interesting to me how the 4.2 fares over the 3.8. BTW, Liked and subbed!

Bucket followers ?

i got the same thing on a series 3 xj6, starts up after the motor warms up 2-5 mins on the exhaust side.

Fabre Midel in Lakemba are the SU specialists. In fact they have bought the whole SU rights as well as the SU museum. Perhaps they can assist you with the needles.

great vid Mate! Im about to do exactly that ! now i know what to do

Thank you for the good tip! Fortunately I tested mine over and over and don’t fall too far down. Getting closer on getting mine driving.

That's a villlans JAAAAGGG

Hi, I have the same issue eversince a full restorarion of my Jag 420, my mechanica could not find the cause... Changing the pressure signal sender twice, checking oilpump, etc. Lets see if if your hint will work out! Thank you, take care, Viktor

I had a similar oil pressure issue with my 2006 Hyundai Elantra 2litre petrol engine. Came to stripping of sump to get to , that's how it is with Hyundai G4GC engine. Determined oil pressure relief valve was stuck or sticking, guncked up. Travels in and out freely after cleaning with brake cleaner solvent. Decided to put full set of STD ConRod and Main Bearing shells in and Crankshaft Thrust washers. Also went the hog and replacing oil pump/genuine, as housing is soft alloy. Still reassembling. Hope engine light stays off after trip at hot idle and better overall oil pressure. Got 320km's on the clock. Hoping to resolve oil light at hot idle and highway better oil pressure to Specifications OEM. Oil pressure switch replacement made no difference.

Thank you very much for your contribution of knowledge! I'm having the exact same symptoms on my car, albeit a SAAB 9-5 and everyone kept telling me that it's the main bearings/worn out engine or the oil pump (to be fair the pump isn't that hard to repair) but I've found more and more information that the culprit might be the relief valve and much easier job on mine so I will for sure start with replacing this part! Thanks again, cheers from Sweden <3

Check the brake vacuum reservoir tanks and pipes under the wings. They often rot with holes causing a vacuum leak. Good luck.

I have an almost exact spec 420 and you have convinced me to do the sway bar on mine.

Love the 420.

Hi there! Thanks for really detailed and awesome videos specifically on the 420. There is not much on YT dedicated to this car. Most of what you have detailed so far are exactly the issues that i am dealing with (carbs, vacuum, brake servo etc.) I am from Cape Town, South Africa where knowledge on this car is either lacking or very expensive to come by. Do keep up the good work, I look forward to more! PS: If your model is auto, a video on setting the gearbox pressures or bands would be awesome. My gearbox was rebuilt completely but I believe the changeovers can be improved. Thanks again! :) ---ok I see on another video yours is manual

420s are brilliant cars, rare too only about 8,500 Jaguars built total. The best classic saloon and a real precursor to the XJ, we have our own factory manual overdrive. Keep up the great work! Cheers, LGM.