Відео

Hi Bigbacon, thanks for watching. In your wiring I suspect that you have somewhere that green, yellow and brown wires are making contact together. Are you testing with a battery like in the video? If yes then fallow your wires and see where your 3 wires are making contact. Another way is disconnect your green wire on your back passager light on trailer and see if your green wire still transfers the 12v to other wires. By disconnecting this wire your wire should not send the 12v elsewhere. You can do the same test with the yellow wire. If you are testing with a vehicle that can cause you more troubleshooting since the problem can be on your vehicle side. That is why, I say it best to test trailer separated from vehicle. Let me know 👍

Hi Future_memory, thanks for watching. It’s usually safe to change from bank 1 to 2 if you have a « make before break » switch. 👍 You will need to verify what kind of switch you have.

@@joetheboatguy5394 mine is 9001E by Blue Sea Systems and upon looking, it does have one. I was debating whether to put two deep cycles in or one cranking and one deep

Hello, today they do have batteries that have the cranking power and deepcycle effect. If you have a bigger engine that requires lots of cranking power and you install a deep cycle battery for it, you can damage your battery since they are not designed for that (mostly old deep cycle battery) if you don’t have your batteries, I would look for the batteries capable of doing both cranking and deepcycle. They are more expensive but worry free. 👍 hope this helps 🙂

@@joetheboatguy5394 thAnks Joe. Engine is a Mercruiser 4.3lx (carbureted) which requires 375 ca / 475 mca. It had deep cycles in it for years and they worked great for about 6-7 years but since it is now time, i am contemplating on which ones to get

You must of had a pretty good higher CA deep cycle battery 👍

Hi, thanks for watching.Here’s your answer: Explanation how we get 24V & 255AH ua-cam.com/video/Ts7y_HOd5WA/v-deo.html

I have the DJI mini 3 pro. Sorry I never tried with the DJI mini 3 ☹️. I will leave comment here and see if anyone answers. I would think it’s the same, but you never know.

@@joetheboatguy5394 i now know the answer. I had to press 3 times the power button on drone to enable connection to phone. Then it worked.

Great news 👍

Hi Kensullivan. Thanks for watching, Ok let’s start with your main switch does everything else have power? If yes then you might have a bad ground on tour pump. Fallow all the wire from pump and see if you see any damage wires. For the fuel gauge you might have a burned fuse or a loose wire. Do you have a multimeter to do some test. Let me know. 👍

Hi user-su6mh1mm4e, Thank you for watching and nice comments. So this is what I’m understanding you have 2 batteries connected on a battery switch 1,2, both or off to run your troller motor. You have a separate plug in battery charger on each battery. You would like to add 1 solar panel to charge both batteries. Let me know if this is the case

Hi Johnelias, thanks for watching. The shifter/throttle I have is the commander 2000 from quicksilver. Let me know if this helps 👍

Hi cyling, Thank you for the nice comment, let me know if you have any questions 👍

Hi Stevekemer, thanks for watching. For testing purpose, yes you can. Your yellow wire is the one that keeps all your pre-set. If you cut power to yellow, you will lose your pre-sets and the radio will load as default every time.

Hi rorschach, thanks for watching. Often both batteries will be different. One will be a starter battery and the other a deep cycle battery. They will have different specifications and that is not alway good for chargeur and batteries. If they are identical batteries then there’s no problem. Hope this helps 👍

@joetheboatguy5394 thank you joe! that is very helpful! And when the engine is off... should I keep it on both? Or will that discharge my starter battery?

That is correct you might discharge your starter battery quicker. Your starter battery is meant to give higher amperage quick (for cranking engine). Deep cycle is designed to give you less quick amperage but last longer. Hope this helps.

Hi johnmurphy, thanks for watching , that’s a very dangerous switch. I warned you don’t touch it 😂 just kidding. That’s the kill switch for the engine 👍

@@joetheboatguy5394 does it attach to a lanyard? (My buddy has one he is thinking of buying. I’m trying to figure the little stuff out for him). I’m assuming there’s a clip that flips the switch down if it’s yanked on?

@@joetheboatguy5394 dangerous huh? 😂😂😂

I’m sure there’s a way to attach to lanyard. I don’t use it since I have a steering wheel and hand throttle so my kill switch is on my hand throttle . But something like this would surely work Boat Outboard Emergency Stop Kill Switch Key Set with Lanyard for Johnson, Evinrude, Yamaha Universal (Red) on amazon

@@joetheboatguy5394 ohh ok. His is tiller handle. Thanks Joe!

Hi NickW0771, Thanks for watching. The round the black plastic has 2 white lines that should be aligned with the carburetor pin when in Idle. When I’m at full throttle my carburetor pin is at ¾ of the round the black plastic so aligned accelerator stem (look at video at 38sec, the stem I’m pointing at). Let me know if this helps 😊

@@joetheboatguy5394 so that pin should not go all the way to the top of the black plastic when at WOT

No mine doesn’t and if I force it by hand, I don’t get more power.

Hi NickW0771, Thanks for watching. The round the black plastic has 2 white lines that should be aligned with the carburetor pin when in Idle. When I’m at full throttle my carburetor pin is at ¾ of the round the black plastic so aligned accelerator stem. Let me know if this helps 😊

Hi Pascale, thanks for watching. If I understand, you have a battery switch and a VSR? You can have the solar pannel plugged on the deep cycle battery and will end up charging your startup battery once your deep cycle is full when switch is set on Both "if you have VSR". I don't see your setup so I am going with what I understand. Let me know if this helps :)

@@joetheboatguy5394 thanks Yes I have a solar system connected to the House battery, and unfortunately my 12 v fridge drained the battery connected to the motor ! I think I had mixed up choosing the right battery on the selector… I want to install a Voltage Selector and I am trying to figure out how. It is called DeWinner Smart Battery Isolator

Is there a way to send you a photo of a hand made diagram of my set up ?

You would have to create a drop box and give me access to it. I know youtube wont let you and I can't really give my e-mail I did that mistake once LOL I got flooded with questions LOL

Hi HeroClaws, thanks for watching. Ok I don’t see your set up so I’m going with what I read. Make sure your radio is well grounded also some older radio would use the radio chassis for ground. So if it’s the case make sure your radio frame (metal) is grounded with car chassis. I’m just throwing ideas out there. Let me know 👍

I touched the chassis of my radio (with Constant 12V) while every other necessary wire was connected to my radio so yeah i'll try that, if that doesn't work i guess i must have burnt some connection with the GND pin of my radio and the rest GND of my radio, and I'll gonna need to get that GND connection back somehow. Good point. Im gonna try that in a couple of hours and gonna get back to you. Thanks!

Usually the fuse is supposed to blow before any wire is damaged. Unless smaller gauge wire was installed or weak connection to connector. A short can cause so much but I’m sure you will find it. 👍 if you have any suspicions on your radio, try plugins it on another battery. Independent, not in your car.

@@joetheboatguy5394 Yea i kinda guessed that, if i had shorted something, fuse would have blow. Haven't tried and i don't really have other car to test it. I have ATX power supply from my Computer that i've transformed into like 12V, 5V, 3V outputs, can i test it without the car somehow? Once again, thank you for your answers!

@@joetheboatguy5394 I found a way to test it outside, gonna use my ATX, join ACC and Const. 12V , hook them up to the positive 12V, and GND to GND or try the chassis. That i think should do the trick to see if it's my radio fault. What do u think?

Hi Erik-Vader-Veechee, thanks for watching, ok do you have a multimeter? First I want to make sure your yellow wire (driver side) is not cut anywhere. So at the light socket you should get 12v when you press your brake. So press on brake and verify if you get your 12v at the light sockets. When doing this test ground your multimeter directly to your white wire at the front of trailer (this is to eliminate in case of a bad ground). If you get your 12V then your ground for your light is not good. If you don’t see 12V then your wire is cut or shorted somewhere. You need to fallow your wire for verification. Often times it’s just a bad ground. Let me know 👍

@@joetheboatguy5394 so I don't have a multimeter although I think should by one but all my lights have their own individual ground and the plug has a ground wire at the tough of the trailer. I just bought a trailer plug that shows indicator lights on it and it'll be here tomorrow. I'm not sure if it's the ground because every other light is working but I'll go thru that next I suppose. Thanks

Ok just re-read your comment so I see you don’t even get the regular light to go on on your driver side. Your driver has the brown and yellow connected. And both don’t work so I definitely suspect the ground wire now on your driver side light. Make sure your ground is well connected (sometimes the paint on trailer can cause bad ground )👍

Are all your grounds connected straight on the frame or you have white wire going to every light? I think your problem is between your light box [driver side] and ground. Are your lights led or halogen? I ask because if they are halogen they have a spring system in the light socket that can sometimes cause an open circuit with ground. Just removing halogen build and replacing it can fix the issue. Of course make sure your build is not burned also…. But if it’s led forget all that. Sorry just shooting ideas 👍

@@joetheboatguy5394 yeah I noticed when I removed my bad lights I had lots of loctite on the bolt that it's screwed into. I'm going to check that problem you mentioned and see if it isn't grounded because of that possibility. Yes they are LED lights and connected to the boat frame where the lights screw in and on the frame on the tongue of the trailers frame.

Hi mickeymallette, thanks for watching. my first suspicion is ground. Make sure your ground is correct. Let me know. 👍

@@joetheboatguy5394 absolutely right. One bad ground connection

Hi offgridwhitetails, thanks for watching. You are right with old switch that are Break-Before-Make: A switch that is configured to break (open) the first set of contacts before engaging (closing) the new contacts. This prevents the momentary connection of the old and new signal paths. Almost all new switches are make before break” transfer, in that the transfer switch makes a connection to the new power source before breaking its connection to the old one. I always recommend to use make before break switch in my channel 👍 I also mention this in the description of the video.

Hi PatCaerone. Thank for watching. Don’t forget to subscribe 👍, best thing is to do is a print screen, that should work. 👍

Hi, ok for the key wiring. You have 3 position. One is the off, You bring your 12v from battery to it. The other position is Ignition, that is the one that will go to feed your fuse box. Don’t forget, if you have lots of amps going to your equipment you will need the right gauge wire. And the 3 position is the wire “usually purple” from engine to start engine. Lets me know if it’s clear 👍

Thank you, Joe! I will let you know, rain here for a while. Your video is very informative! Thank you for getting back to me. This woman is getting it!😅 one thing I did do was attach fuse boxes to a plastic cutting board and layed it all out before transferring to the boat. Very helpful that way for me!

Hi reneehicks, thanks for watching and please don't forget to subscribe :) It could be ether or. If 85 is positive then 86 is ground. if 85 is ground then 86 will be positive. hope this help.

Ahhh! Yes! Thank you!

Hi akashramcharan, thanks for watching, I would try to order the same one as your car. Not make new hole. They are usually all the same size. Hope this helps 👍

Hi stalrev, thanks for watching, Float mode is where the battery voltage is maintained at approximately 13.5 volts for a 12V battery. So 13.5 volts will be higher then 12.8V so VSR would let voltage pass so should not be a problem :)

@@joetheboatguy5394 thanks, rewiring my pontoon dealer put a second battery on it for trolling motor and wired it straight to trolling motor and charger so im putting in a switch to utilize both batteries if needed.

Hi FloydReed, thank for watching. Yes you can add a circuit breaker it would give it more protection. 👍

Hi gottafly, thanks for watching. Yes absolutely you can add power on off switch. I’m try not to add too much, it would make it harder to understand. The diagram is the minimum, you can add so much more. 👍

Hello henningsea, thanks for watching. The ears you’re talking about are the ones with holes? If yes, then they will hold your reed in place. If it’s not that let me know 👍

@@joetheboatguy5394 Hi Joe, thanks for the reply, I just noticed it now. I'm talking about the rubber seal on the reed block, that separates the two cylinders. At 6:18 (ua-cam.com/video/DUOkv5bBgKc/v-deo.htmlsi=xVX8Allw8zWMnEhT&t=378) you are touching the seal. This seal has two lips, ears or however they can be called at the end. If you put the gasket on the reed block, those ears ar between the reed block and the paper gasket, possibly creating an air leak. I wonder if it is meant to be mounted like this. It is still reacting slightly if I spray a bit of brake cleaner on reed block area, but it could also be from beeing sucked in through the carburettor. Anyhow, my engine is back together and so far it's responding much better to adjustments of the idle mixture needle, but I still have to test it under load. Hopefully the missfireing at low rpm is gone now. Else I suspect the ignition charging coil, which could be costly...

Ok it’s the seal that separates the 2 pistons. That seal is there because while one piston is sucking air and fuel (so reed open). The other side need to be shut closed for combustion so (reed closed). So that seal separate the 2 pistons. Mine had a little groove for the ears so it was flat.

Hi LisaF, Thanks for watching. They are no stupid question ;) Some people prefer the old way, switch over the VRS, It’s a personal preference. I do have also the video for VSR check it out :) ua-cam.com/video/7TinRz-H76k/v-deo.htmlsi=8Q91PiH1c2Fw7lI2

Hi WarpTide, thanks for watching. They were more adjustment needed on the Idle speed control. But this video was just to adjust the idle screw 😊

Hi anghiggy, Thanks for watching. Unless your radio requires a fuse on yellow then you can put a fuse. The yellow wire is the one that will keep all your setting in the radio like your favorite radio stations and what ever can be saved. So yes, with an extreme long time it will drain your battery (we are talking months here). You if have a battery draining problem this would not be my first suspicion. Hope this helps :)

@@joetheboatguy5394 OK. Thanks, it was only a week, we thought it was a little strange, but it is the only thing we have changed. The battery stayed up all winter. Installed new radio to existing wires except this one had the yellow wire where the old one only had the red fused.

Make sure all your connections are good if one wire does not have good connection. It can creates resistance which more amperage passes, which makes the battery work more. If you really suspect that wire, you can unplug it and see if the battery keeps up for a week.

@@joetheboatguy5394 I so appreciate you conversing with me. That is my plan is just to disconnect the yellow wire, we don't really need the memory. But yes, all my connections are good. I left one thing out on my last comment. On the video I watched to help me change out the radio it said to tie the yellow wire in with the red wire. You show them connected separately. Do you think that can make the difference? I've seen a few things since the battery got drained that said not to twist them together. Your help is much appreciated!!

yes, the yellow and the red both come from the batterie. The difference is, on the red wire there’s a switch so basically you connected the red wire on a wire that ONLY has power when the key is turned. So, radio shouldn’t go ON if the ignition key in not turned on. So red wire should have 0V if key is not turned (OFF position) and 12V if key is turned.

Hi AtwoodBoxing, thanks for watching. Do you have a multimeter to measure the voltage between the red and the black wire of course after the fuse make sure there’s 12 V.. If there’s no 12 V, make sure your fuses is good and that you’re grounded correctly. Start with that and let me know 👍

@joetheboatguy5394 yup I did all of that and still don't turn on and I tried 2 different radios

What is the model of your radio? I will look it up..

@@joetheboatguy5394 dual dc426bt

Ok found your unit. You need to make sure you have 12v at the yellow after the fuse and red wire. What is your power source? A battery? Also when measuring your voltage, make sure you’re using your radio ground (black wire).

hi baileyschornak, thanks for watching and comment, Bus bars are usually high on amperage (200A). It all depends on what you are plugging on the bus bar. But if you get a 200A one, I'm pretty sure you will be fine :)

Hi Erik-Veedee-Veechee, thanks for watching. If you get your hitch installed from a dealer this is the way they would have it. Some people prefer the other way but doesn’t change anything in the wiring. :)

Yeah I was confused. Thank you. So with the one brown wire can you run it down one side and then just connect from the side marker down to the left light or how do you make 1 wire run both ways?

Yes your brown wire will go to all your marker lights. You can split the wire with connectors splitters or the old fashion way splice the wire directly. 👍

Will the brown wire make the side of the light fixture light up in the back? I have the big round part light up but not the side of the square. I haven't put the marker lights on yet. Also does it matter if it's grounded on each light AND I'm running the white trailer tounge ground?

The brown wire will receive 12 V as soon as you turn your car lights on. Whatever lights you want ON that’s the wire it needs. So side markers backlights will have the brown wire. For the ground, you can use the trailer chassis for ground or the better way is to pass the white wired to all your lights for ground.

Hi ultimatejay, thanks for watching. Adding an on/off switch is an option, but it will only lead to human mistakes. In the event that you turn off your switch and plug in your charger, your batteries may not be charged the following time you want to go out. So, adding a switch on batteries can be a double edged knife.

Hi ioannisvarkoulis. In this diagram the starter battery is primary. But as soon as your voltage is higher than 12.8v your house battery will get charged also. The VSR is there to make sure your equipment doesn’t use your starter battery. 👍

So i could change the VSR connection from solar charging and make the house battery prime. The starter battery will be charged from engine anyway Is that so?

But your solar panel will charge the house battery if your starting battery is full. your solar will charge both batteries but the starter battery first. Why would you want your house battery to be primary?

@@joetheboatguy5394 I’m afraid that when the starter battery is full the solar charger will stop charging and the house battery will not reach the same status as the starter battery.

Your solar charger controller should have a cut out voltage higher then 12.8V. So both your batteries should be full before it cuts out.

Hi ioannisvarkoulis, Thanks for watching, if you have a single VSR it should work exactly like the diagram. when your engine is on if you have a voltage rectifier or alternator it will charge both your batteries since your voltage will be higher then 12.8 and VSR will let the voltage pass.

Hi andreiradchenko, thanks for watching. When you ask for a kill switch, is it for the outboard? if yes, I have done some videos for simple boat wiring. You might want to check them out. I will put links below of the video I think your looking for. If I'm wrong please let me know. ua-cam.com/video/bnQZmurYQ-g/v-deo.htmlsi=uMX9fmOFGf73l7Z9 ua-cam.com/video/8pWGlQIKcj0/v-deo.htmlsi=q2_ewuRhZUBsCkQp

Hello erdoganordukaya, thanks for watching. A no start can be many things. First check if your spark plugs are good then check if they get a good spark on start. Bad spark will cause hard start. When it starts does your engine run rough? If it’s really rough, it could be because your reed valve are damaged. They are other things to check first. If you have a hard time starting it, always pull to prime button and put it back in place before starting. It will shoot a little spray of fuel to help it start. Also make sure your fuel bulb is pumped hard. That can only help the start of your engine. If your carburetor is gunk up, running some Seafoam into it to clean it. When running, is your idol good? Your idle screw might need a little adjustment. Also, you might need to adjust your air fuel mixture screw, but that’s one of the last things to do. Let me know and good luck 👍

@@joetheboatguy5394 Thank you very much for taking the time to provide me with the information. Can you give me an e-mail or phone number so that I can send you a video?

Hello erdogannordukaya, sorry i can’t give that kind of information. I would receive endless emails lol. I will try to find a way. I will get back to you soon.

Hello erdoganordukaya, you will need to create a dropbox and send me the link that should work. they are some free sites to share videos. Let me know :)

jikle cekili iken 2 kere ipi cek sonra jikleyi itip ipi cekmeye devam et. Surekli jiklede cekersen bujiler islaniyor ve motor calismiyor

Hi lejend69, thanks for watching, on your amplifier do you have a connection called “remote or turn on lead”? Give me the connection you have available on amplifier. 👍

I have a remote blue wire from the amp went to know when I’m in the back of the radio harness do I do the other blue wire or the power antenna wire or splice it some where else ?

In your radio harnessed, you should have a blue wire that only has 12 V on it when you turn on the radio that’s the one you connect on the blue wire or the amp. 👍