Відео

@@silent_fluo6917 in many cases yes. If you yank it too abruptly in first or second gear, it might not. It depends on the conditions, your speed, where the engine is in the power band, the gear you're in, etc. I wouldn't personally try to find out

@@humannature3916 no?

@@hiimchad our euro 5 tuono overheats in the city and at the lights. Just wondering if you encountered the same eapeciallt stopped at the light

@@humannature3916 I have not, my bike does get pretty hot but has never overheated as far as I know

You're welcome!

I think I said I had put about 7,700 miles on it myself, not that it had 7,700. It was at about 12.2k when I had the 12.5k service done.

@@hiimchad Thanks for clarifying. Would you buy another one?

@@BlueRage absolutely. I've enjoyed every moment in the saddle!

Any other details you can share? Condition, mileage, etc? As far as inspecting, I would check for leaks all around the engine, fork seals, and so on. If there is an independent shop nearby you can ask the dealer to take it there for a pre purchase inspection at your cost. If they say no, negotiate in a warranty. Assuming mileage is low and condition is great the Factory is the better deal imo, but all depends on how you're going to ride the bike. RR is more comfortable but still sporty enough for a track day, Factory would be great for days at Barber if you go routinely.

@@hiimchad ooh I infortunately did not check more other than surface level. I know currently the rr is getting a starter rectifier swap. Tires looked good, could probably use new ones in like 1k miles or so. I’ll get more details next week as I’m stopping by to check. I was planning on purchasing the RR for myself and my buddy the factory. I normally take my Z H2 SE to barber but it’s so dang thick I wanted something more lithe and lighter haha. I’ll add a comment on here next week around Tuesday as well with more info!!! EDIT: one other piece of info is the dealer that I found it off of is not an aprilia dealer, i think it was a trade in. Closest aprilia dealer to me is in knoxville TN, about four hours away, but hopefully any electrical gremlins have been found and fixed. If not, she is getting trailered there haha

Hi there! Kudos to you for taking on that job yourself. Unfortunately, if you did not keep track of where each shim was, I think the best thing you can do is exactly what you said. Throw it all back together, take measurements, then disassemble and move shims around as needed. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but it's the only way you'll be able to determine what needs to go where :/

@@hiimchad thanks, it all seems relatively straight forward until it gets to the shims so hopefully it works out. Thanks for getting back to me really appreciate it videos like the ones you've made make things so much easier I learnt so much from it. The tolerances on both exhaust and I take would be the same regardless of the milage that the bike has done correct? I've got a Haynes manual on the way anyway but in the meantime I'm trying to get as much knowledge in my head as possible 😂

Santiago and I go way back 🤝

Congrats! Not sure what you mean by making it work 100% though. Does it have the QS and blipper? If so, it should work right off the showroom floor

Thank you! Unfortunately didn't look this good for very long. I crashed it at the end of that weekend 🥲

You're welcome!

The mirrors are the CRG Arrow model and the bar ends are from RhinoMoto, made specifically for CRG bar end mirrors. Hope that helps!

It does not.

@@hiimchad a fuel warning light ?

@@highestsprings it does have one of those.

Nope, it will throw you right off the back

@@hiimchad oh! Then.. do you still need to use back break? I'm a bit confused

@@martialart3277 the wheelie control system is not perfect. It will provide assistance under normal riding conditions and works as an anti-wheelie system more than a wheelie control system. If you were to pin it and pop the clutch in first gear, the massive surge in torque would cause the front of the bike to lift abruptly and with a lot of force which the system would probably not be able to overcome. This effect is reduced in higher gears, but under no condition will AWC sustain a wheelie longer than a second or so

@@hiimchad but if your in higher gear it helps right? Because i have a big fear of flipping my motorcycle. (I have an rs660)

It sure is 🙂

I have not made a video about it but mine is set at 11,800 rpm. According to Aprilia, the engine makes peaks power at 11k rpm in stock trim, and the limiter is around 12.5k.

I appreciate it. I had mine set at 11k but I don’t remember why.

I don't off the top of my head, but they are the transparent StompGrip pads precut for the 2011-2020 RSV4/Tuono V4. They're probably available on Cycle Gear or RevZilla 👍

@@hiimchad I was thinking more about the black rubber one in center. StompGrips I have myself already :). Thanks for replying and for teaching me so much about my bike through your videos.

I've set mine at and a bit over 70 many times without issue. Is cruise enabled before you try to set the speed?

Yes it was enabled. It could have been the gear I was in. Thanks for the reply man! Cheers!

@@mtbchill7080 I mean unless you were in 1st or 2nd it should have set. The button can be tricky as it's fairly flimsy. What year is your bike?

Nope, no autoblipper. There are very few aftermarket options for this bike since they still use a mechanical/cable-actuated throttle, and from what I gathered they are not very reliable

I'm not as familiar with the 21+ Tuono, but if it's anything like this and the Akra will delete the cat, it will need an ECU flash. The modes change fueling and response slightly, but not enough to compensate for the significant reduction in back pressure from the cat vanishing. For the 2017-20 bikes, the ECU can be remapped by an Aprilia dealer with the "Race ECU" which is designed to richen up the mixture for catless exhausts, or you can look into solutions from tuners like Gabro and OpenFlash. I am pretty sure they have products available for the 21+, but am not 100% sure as I haven't looked into it myself.

I sold it over a year ago but it had an FMF Megabomb header, Yoshimura RS-4 slip on, bark busters with integrated turn signals and convex mirrors (can't remember the brand), and a fender eliminator kit with LED rear turn signals.

Pretty much! You still need to use the clutch to put the bike in and out of gear when stopped, and it is not recommended to use quickshift or autoblip below 4k rpm, but other than that, it is very similar.

I do! I have two Triumph Daytona 675Rs that are track bikes, both with QS up only, and both are GP shift. I find it much more natural for a sportbike, regardless of whether an autoblipper or QS are fitted.

@@hiimchad Okay thank you. I will give it a try.

As long as there is more than one lane in the direction you are going, there are no rules about which you can and cannot split in. That said, it is best practice to split between the two left-most lanes, assuming the road/highway is more than two lanes wide in that direction.

🙂✌️

Thank you! 🙂✌️

I noticed the coolant temps with the fan on in traffic or when idling after fully warmed up dropped a few degrees, but nothing super significant.

Thank you! They are the CRG Arrow bar ends mounted on RhinoMoto bar ends specifically for CRG bar end mirrors. You should be able to buy everything together from AF1Racing.com

Must be nice! You won't find a mechanic anywhere in the USA at that labor price unless they're working out of their own garage as a hobby. $135/hr is very reasonable here, especially for a factory-trained technician. $180 is the common going rate in this area

I live in the eu and pay about €120 an our in labor? You probably live in East Eu?

🫡

Glad it was helpful! Hope you're enjoying yours as much as I am mine 🙂✌️

A simulation 😂

@@hiimchadthat’s what I meant to say 😂

No. But he is not revving, he is blipping

Keeping the throttle open while braking is not good, but the quick blip is necessary for rev matching and when done correctly, is faster and smoother than downshifting without rev matching if the bikes does not have a slipper clutch.

Glad you found it all useful! Hope you enjoy your Tuono as much as I have mine 🙂✌️

As I begin to close the throttle and go for the brake, I come out of the tucked position and am upright but with my upper body pitched a bit forward still while engaging the brakes. I set up for the corner while tucked, moving to the side of the seat, and then brace what will be my outside leg in the corner against the fuel tank to take some weight out of my arms while braking. This allows for more control of the lever and handlebar. Wind resistance is normal. A more aerodynamic helmet will help, but at the end of the day, the wind resistance at high speeds is part of the naked bike experience, unless you add a windscreen.

Hi! Not sure I understand, are you hearing pressure release as you rotate the crank?