Відео

Nice one!

Hey, no worries. I'm glad you found it useful. I just used a big M20 bolt that I have lying around my shed, but you could use pretty much use any metal rod that you have lying around that's say 10-20mm diameter. It would probably be better to use a soft drift like aluminium or brass so that you don't damage the wheel bearing housing - but I think the bearing housing is cast steel so I don't think it really matters.

@dirtbagd89 got it, thanks mate. That's one bloody big bolt!

Thanks! Yea, I need to do some more fettling to see where the chatter is coming from. I think the headstock bearings may be the culprit. Some of the other commenters seem to think it's the tool height or spindle speed. I suppose those two are fairly easy to tweak.

@@dirtbagd89 Just wondering...have you adjusted the gib on the compound slide?

@@zoltannagy1813 The compound is pretty tight (when fitted), but I think I need to do some fine tuning of the cross slide gibs. I also noticed that there is some slack in the carriage on the bed that I need to take a look at.

It was set at centre height. I'll try lowering it slightly to see if that helps. Cheers.

haha - UA-cam speeds, I haven't heard that one before. I'll try reducing the spindle speed to see if that helps. I think I used 420 RPM which is close to 100 SFPM with a 20mm dia bar which is what's recommended for mild steel in the reference book I have. Perhaps those rules of thumb don't apply when parting off. Thanks for your comment!

@ The problem is that speed & feeds from recommendations do not usually apply to the reality of manual machining. Slow down your speeds & feeds to maximize tool life but make good advances on the material at hand. Listen to what your tool is telling you and pay attention to your chips.

ha, yea there is some gratuitous ratcheting in the video.

Hey, thanks for the tip! I'll try that and see if it helps.

Thanks. Yea, the last time I had a mechanic do this job the bearing wore out in a few thousand miles. I think they must've installed it with a hammer...

@@dirtbagd89 he didn't have to assemble with a hammer he pressed in behind the hub damaging the inner race of the bearing. for this type of bearing you need a tool or some cleverness. we press in behind the outer race of the bearing without damaging it. unfortunately, mechanics take shortcuts. also 99% of mechanics don't know how to unscrew the steering rods and they ruin the steering gears

Thanks Rusty!

Asi jsem nějaký méně chápavý. Nepochopil jsem obsah a smysl tohoto komentáře. A to jsem ho dokázal přečíst i s pravopisnými chybami a překlepy.

Hey, good luck getting that seized bolt undone! It's always best to down tools and come back to it later if something isn't going your way.

@@dirtbagd89 Mulțumesc

Who is Many Nuts?

Thanks! Good luck with your project!

Thanks for the kind comment!

Thanks Keith!

Thanks for the comment. I'm glad you found the video useful.

Thanks for this kind comment. 👍

O motora aşina değilim. Ancak eğer bu bir zamanlama zinciri ise, belki de servis yapılmasına gerek yoktur. En iyisi kılavuzu kontrol etmek. Saygılarımla.

Teşekkürler. Videomun size yardımcı olmasına sevindim.

Evet, eğer işi kendiniz yapabiliyorsanız, biraz para biriktirmek iyi olur!

Hiç sorun değil. Videomun size yardımcı olmasına sevindim. Güç ve onur.

Hey, the bore in the casting for the quill was oversized. Have a look at part 2 for a relatively easy fix.

Thanks Cheryl!

Thanks Jack!

Wow, that's ace. The Rohloff Speedhub is not only the antithesis of our modern throw away culture, it also stands against the bicycle industry's ever changing modern hub specs - many of which will probably become obsolete in a few years. The world could learn a lot from Bernard Rohloff's design ethos. If you carry out regular oil changes I'm sure your hub will last many years longer. Have you had any issues with the nylon drive pins shearing on your ebike? As it happens, I'm planning to build an ebike with a Rohloff and a bafang 1kW mid drive motor in the next few months.

I have hub #11 since I bought it second hand in 2012. Send it in for an official service and has been running solid ever since. So your not lucky, they are just great pieces of kit !!!

It's ace to hear your early hub is still running. I wonder if they replaced the internals when you sent it in for it's official service.

@@dirtbagd89 I actually have no idea. Didn't open it up after the service. Just did the anual oil changes myself. I assume they kept the internals but changed bearings and seals (at least given the cost of the service). Cant remember the exact pricing but assume it would have been way more expensive otherwise.

@@dirtbagd89 I dont think so. If they do that they will contact you because its more expensive. I heard from one guy he had to pay about 400-500 Euro for a new case. But not because it was broken, he just wanted to put the old gear in a new clothing.🙂 Rohloff is the best gear ever, and a very good service if ther is a problem.

Hey, the gear set up for auto feeding is shown on the table on the belt cover. The table gives you the gear set up for feed rates of 0.1 and 0.2mm per spindle revolution. Have a look at the photo at 18:05. in the video.

Yes you could manufacture bolts with this machine. If you were using round stock you'd need a filing rest and a way of indexing the chuck to form the hex. Of course this wouldn't be needed if you used the correct size hex stock.

@@dirtbagd89 was thinking of making some titanium bolts for my motorbike die to old ones rusting

Thanks!

Thanks for the tip.

Thanks Robert. Did you use it to change your belt?

@@dirtbagd89 not yet but I have downloaded the step by step guide 👍

@@yt240robert Oh nice one. Let me know how it goes.