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Thanks for watching!

Mixed wild flowers. We have these bees in an area that is mostly hardwood forest with meadows and a creek running through. Probably a half mile to the nearest farm field.

I usually mark them by poking a scratch awl through the pattern and into the leather along the line and then use a free hand stitching groover to connect the dots.

@@bransonsgeneralstore thank you this is the answer I’ve been looking for for a long time. Gonna have to purchase one of those.

I don't know, but I don't think so. I haven't made a pattern for a .380 EZ, but the EMP I made this holster for is basically a scaled down 1911. The EZ looks like it has a rail and a wider trigger guard which would probably make this pattern too small for it to fit in.

@@bransonsgeneralstore Thank you for the speedy reply, if you ever make one I would like to see it, I will check your site daily just in case. thanks again. God Bless you

I buy my clips from Tandy leather. They are a little thicker metal than ones I have gotten from other vendors and hold better. They do cost more.

For something I will be carving I generally purchase Hermann oak from Springfield Leather company.

Found some on Amazon. Apparently it is used as a replaceable cutting board in laser cutters.

Yes they are. I only have a few of them for pistols that are popular enough I have made several holsters with each of them. Most of the one off holsters I make I trace around the customer's gun to make the pattern. When I have the holster finished I meet them again and shape the holster to their firearm wrapped in plastic wrap to protect the finish from the wet leather.

@@bransonsgeneralstore eventually this is the best way to do it! Keep up the good work 👍

Thanks!

Great! You're very welcome.

Sorry about that! I've made some upgrades since I made this video.

I bought the steel rule from a shop on Etsy

Thank you Nice work on the press

For carving I just wet the leather with a sponge. I actually want the leather to rest until it looks like it is almost dry, but still feels cool and moist when I touch it. If it still looks soaked your tool impressions won't be as sharp, and your finished carving will look blurry and lack depth. Fully cased leather is something I do if I am shaping it, but it needs to dry for hours before it is right to carve and stamp.

I don't take orders for custom work online. I have a full-time job and enough business locally to keep me busy. Sorry.

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!

@@bransonsgeneralstore My. Brother plays guitar/bass and something like this will be the perfect gift. Again, excellent video. Keep them coming please.

Hello. Just wanted to double check. The leather used in the video is 6oz?

@@milom.2057 6-7oz should be a good thickness for a guitar strap.

Thanks for the quick reply. I’ve a double shoulder that is 5-6oz. In your opinion, this ok or too thin?

I'm glad it helps!

The tool with the wooden handle is called a lacing fid.

Thanks for watching!

Thank you!

It would probably be a little larger. Napoleon's troops had .69 cal muskets. Similar to some of the smoothbores still in use at the beginning of the civil war. Those early war cartridge boxes were larger.

There are several ways. I prefer to use a piece shaped like a key fob. Fold it around a round or rectangular ring. Rivet the center of it to the bag and stitch around the edge. You could use a concho or decorative rivet instead of a plain one.

It's called a stitching groover. It cuts a shallow channel in the leather so the stitches are set down into the surface. That helps the stitches last longer because the thread is not as exposed to wear.

I only used plastic and Velcro because that was specifically asked for by the guy I was making this for. I tell people that Velcro will become weak and I don't like using it.

Thanks for watching! Good luck!

Yes, you can put the leather toggle on one piece and a loop for it to hook through on the other. I have used them on bags, book covers, and even an instrument case I made.

I found a push clamp on Amazon. www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ABWUS9O?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title Welding the longer handle on made it a lot easier to use.

@@bransonsgeneralstore thanks for your help

When mixed with the wax it adds flexibility to it. It is also hydrophobic but is sticky without the wax. The oil can be olive oil like I used or something else like mineral oil or neatsfoot oil. I started using it when I was researching jack mugs and bottles. That was years ago so I don't remember the source, but I found a recipe that called for wax, colophony, and lamp black. I don't use the lamp black because it obviously makes everything black and is possibly carcinogenic. Colophony is another old name for pine rosin, resin, brewer's pitch, pine pitch, rock rosin, etc. This waterproofing recipe could also be called dubbing (dubbin in UK). Been in use for hundreds of years with a ton of different recipes.

@@bransonsgeneralstore That's really interesting. Thanks for your reply. I'm leaning away from vegetable oils as they oxidize and deteriorate (although I'm intrigued by castor oil). Food grade mineral oil seems more appropriate. Many people try to avoid anything which they wouldn't eat or put on their skin and from a safety point of view this is valid, however there are many factors to consider. I'm just starting to investigate leather conditioners and so far it's fascinating. Thank you for the reply and greetings from bonnie Scotland.

I don't take orders for custom work online. I have a full-time job and enough business locally to keep me busy.

Most often I am cutting lace from sides of cowhide. The leather I was using on those handles was 3-4oz.