Відео

These and Kustom amps were popular back in the 70’s because they were cheap and plentiful, and built pretty poorly….

Same company that made Plush amps ? They were tuck and rolled in black tolex and were tube amps my friend had one in early 70's

They say the AC brand regulator is the one to get. The adjustable one you got are a dime a dozen and not worth the money.

Could you re use the roll pin?

The high capacitance (ie th e 150uF reading 177uF) should be a warning as it indicates high leakage. The tester thinks it's still charging but it's leaking DC. A high voltage cap test with a 100mR or 1R resistor to test the leakage would show the leakage. Great job.

Whats in the cab, Celestion G15M speakers???

Awesome amp with jbls or alters for bass

Would be a good idea to put in some good quality coupling caps coming from the phase inverter to the power tubes, just saying.... And not orange drops. Oil filled caps for that are great. Good job

Apparently the designers never read the memo about turning transformers at right angles to each other so you don't have cross coupling of magnetic fields....

The inductive surge at turn on can often exceed the 1KV peak inverse voltage of ordinary diodes, which is why you often see two or three of them wired togther in series. On a high-power amp like this I would have used 2 1N5408 diodes in series on each leg of the power transformer secondary. The blackened leads on the original diodes is due to the plating which is probably silver or a silver alloy. I haven't seen it to be problematic for diodes, but in older plastic- body transistors, that oxidation product can creep right up into the plastic case and cause the transistor to become intermittent and noisy.

Hi, nice video I'm learning how to replace the pickups on my LARRY CARLTON H7V Vintage Sunburst that mounts the P90s, I've already disassembled everything but I noticed that the neck pickup is mounted the opposite way to the bridge one, that is, not the wire facing upwards while the bridge pickup has the wire facing downwards, seen the guitar as if I were playing it, that is, from above is it normal? Don't you have the famous nasal effect?

I remember having terrible buzz on an epiphone 339, so I had the nut and bridge replaced. When I got it back, the 12th fret on the G string was a dead spot, so I ended up selling it

Jets in the rubber hose too small,, go up to 79 jets,,,,

I thought all YJ axels had a small bolt that unscrewed to get the pin out

That’s freakin awesome, those Earth Plush, Kustom clones are hard to come by, pretty awesome you have a collection there!

I wanna hear them

I just picked up a p1000 after owning the enormous PA head in semi-working condition for many years. Noticing the tube driver on your board and I think we share an aesthetic sense lol. Now all I need is the matching blue-green cab.

Much of the Earth branded stuff was Peavey clones, but Plush was all Fender clones

Holy jumpin solder monkeys. That's some interesting stuff!

I had a Plush P1000S with 2 cabinets in 1970 ... don't have them now but several years ago found and bought a Plush 1000 PA Head ... still have it in storage lol!

I had the same problem with my 91 W350. After about 15 years of good service, it started over charging, burning out voltage regulators a couple a year, and alternators too. None of the forums had the answer, but it’s a common complaint. After years of unsuccessful attempts to fix it, I just learned to live with it. I had to replace the multifunction switch in the column, the high/low beam part failed, and I also replaced the start/run switch in the column at the same time. As a result, I was able to switch my headlights between high and low, but as a bonus, my pulse wipers once again worked as they should, and my charging system has been rock steady at 14.2 volts for years now! Contrary to the Forums, not every problem can be traced to bad grounds. Since I replaced two things, I can’t say which cured the charging problem, but since your truck doesn’t have a multi function switch, I’d look at the ignition switch.

Bridge, nut, Tailgate, Tuners all replaced. No buzz. The electrics and pickups seems fine

Hi by accident I came across your video. I have the same one, at 20 mph it shakes my whole car. I replaced a lot of elements. Did replacing this part solve the problems? I know it's been 5 years since you recorded this video. A lot of people struggle with this problem. Greetings from Poland

ABM bell brass bridge and tail piece are awesome. But they ring so true and are so resonant it vibrated solder points on the pickups loose. OMG it was the worst sound ever. End up pulling out the guts and playing it like an acoustic. Lol. Have to redo the electronics.

Need to pull my 91 yj cluster out, and try this. As the only thing that works properly is the clock. Fuel gauge reads accurately, until you turn the engine on, then it jumps up 1/4 tank higher. The oil pressure, engine temp do nothing, and the voltmeter needle constantly vibrates at +/- 14 volts.

I have a 1978 d150 4x4 noticed that the two post on the amp meter were loose and one was getting really hot so I took the two wires off the amp meter and just connected the two wires together ditched the amp meter and put a volt gage in and my volt gage did exactly what yours was doing a couple hours later of going through the wiring and not finding anything I decided to change the volt gage out with another one and problem went away but doesn't mean that could be that simple for everyone else.

Awesome video! Thanks you!!!

I had a mega rattke with that crappy bridge on my casino coupe. Order a Gibson Les Paul bridge ( in black with black tail piece). But i had to drill bigger holes for the bushings ( metric vs imperial) . Done. No more rattle. I love my epiphone, but the problem is, the wood part, frets, fret board etc are perfect. But every hardware parts, electronics, tuners, are so freaking cheap!! I ended up changing everything on it. Still way cheapet then buying the es-330.

I have some gauges go to the max and others that dont move at all. I know it could be other issues but does that sound like an issue caused by bad curcuit

'68 only year Vin tag on passengers side? JPK

Neato project. That 302 is non-original. Those heads (at least) are 1978 or newer with that style rocker arm. So, the good news is - you don't really need to be concerned with originality. You are FREE to resto mod to your hearts content. Even if that means leaving the body alone and just dropping in another 302. C4's are super simple to rebuild yourself and cheap. Lots of aftermarket solutions for good brakes. Future looks pretty bright!

I have the same problem but mine its a 2008 ford scape v6 3.0 is the same part number ????

Get it running and enjoy it as-is

get it sand blasted see what you are looking at with that patchy looking bodywork. also as for the brakes and everything see if your hardlines are good and replace any and all soft lines do yourself a favor there

Not to familiar with the process of restoring old cars. But im looking forward to watching what you do. Subbed and liked

In the end it was the TFI module. PO had put in a new Transpo unit. Once I swapped it to a Motorcraft she runs perfect. There are forums posts that go through how to test and reach this conclusion. I took the time to be sure before buying. Only other potential cause was goofball wiring harness and thank goodness that didn't end up the cause!

Does the serial number starts with k11?

YOU SAVE MY LIVE I WILL NOT HAVE IDEA WHO TAKE OUT THAT PIN.THANKS FOR THIS VIDEO

Buy a Chevrolet

All of these voltage regulators have issues with the ground wires. You have to ground the wire BEHIND the voltage regulator,not in front. Even the manufacturer will tell you this. And make sure all your other ground wires are new and a heavier gauge wire

How many the Price y want this pick up 😊

Great video. Helped a bunch. Did you end up reusing the old roll pin and did you stake it?

The Epi bridge is crap so are the Posts First thing I’m going to change The oversea spacing makes my fingers get tangled on the board And change to better spacing Then do the Pups The MIC guitars are OK But bridge hardware Crap

Failing pip sensor in the distributor. That is the pickup coil assembly. The shutter wheel makes and breaks the magnetic field to the electronic reed switch. do to the square wave pattern as the electronics age the they break down causing random misfires. Great video. Only way to prove it is with a digital storage scope. Taking samples of the waveform. Or throw a brand new distributor in it as the special press tooling to pull and push the distributor gear back on is almost impossible to find. Mushrooming the ends of the shaft happen. Get busy with a new dizzy. Be sure to set the engine to 10 degrees before tdc with the rotor pointing to the number 1 spark plug wire. Usually the shutter wheel gap will align at the pip sensor at that position. Make sure the oil pump drive shaft did not pull out of the oil pump. If you look down the hole it should be centered not wedged to the side. On first start up. Watch the oil pressure gauge or light.

Same problem on a 83 D150. Ran independent grounds and a direct 12 volt feed. Was told its caused by the brushes in the alternator.

Same

Just save me a big headache, exactly what I was looking for. Could not for the life of me figure out how I would get that pin out of there.

Do you have a video of you installing it?

Man would love to have a 440 in my '81 Ram W250

I have the 78 Sportsman 360 and found my ballast resistor and plug thingy next to it not even connected, lines cut and everything haha