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Yes right after this video . sounds awesome. Had to change wastegate settings due to over boosting. I also changed the flange connection to Vee band. Otherwise smooth install no issues.

Better airflow at higher RPM.

@@elser2utube so RBC is better

@@darizoyes 🤓

Same here... next week i will do that job but i dnt want to chance it with this one

You are welcome. The car is running, idling smoothly, I am working on the tune currently.

@@elser2utube Great to hear that, to my surprise, I had the turbo oil return line being flooded as well and causing the car to have a little bit of smoke on some occasions. I'm gonna try your method on that as well. Thanks again, Cheers

Did not measure the wattage on the LEDs. The problem with changing the LEDs to any different spec is that they are a non standard size and they have to be aligned by fitting in the lamp socket like a dowel. I tried other brighter LEDs, but the result was uneven light distribution.

The Watts was calculated using the current and voltage.

@@elser2utube yes i know but that alternator is'it in New situation..it's becam motor ... it's no difference beetwin motor and alternator !!??... thanks again

@@azertaieb442 The calculation of watts using P=IV is really how much power the motor is using, or how much power the alternator is putting out. ....The actual mechanical output would be the total power consumed multiplied by the efficiency ( which would vary but be some number less than 1) Let's say it is 0.7 in this case. So we would have 70% of the power being consumed by the motor available at the motor shaft. The remaining 30% would be lost in the motor to heat(which would consist of power dissipated in the coils internal resistance and eddy current losses) and friction from the bearings etc. If the voltage levels are the same, the losses should be roughly the same whether the device is being used as a motor or generator (same bearings, same wiring in the coils, same cores in the stator and rotor). Hope that helps.

@@elser2utube very satesfad ...thank you so much ...gread job and gread Channel. Thank you again

I tried unsuccessfully to remove the lens. Warmed them up to the point that I could not touch them and they cracked with the smallest pry. Hot knife if you are cutting it, otherwise I dont know.

The lights crack very easily I wouldn’t recommend doing that

I checked out your videos, I did not think the motor would have enough torque to move the car. What is your supply voltage? What did that alternator come off?

@@elser2utube The voltage in the last video was 57.8 volts. 72 volts are planned. The voltage can be raised, but the controller current, it is really not enough 280A and there is only 40A. Plus, I also started from second gear (I just confused it with the location of the gears)

Not sure what LEDS could be used as replacements for these because there is a LED driver between the 12V supply and the LED itself. Also, they are a non standard head size, I think they are 4mm from memory. In my case however, it was the driver that was defective. So before you solder in new LED's, make sure your driver has an output or at least test the new ones before soldering them in place.

The one I was using here is 120A and it is rated for 12S, Castle also has a 180A.

@@elser2utube thank you for the answer I am studying your project with great interest, can I use 4 batteries and each of them should be 40 amps, Thank you

@@aligator0611 what voltage are the 4 batteries?

@@elser2utube we have a limit for amps to connekt castle controler

My qwestion is. I connekt controller in 4 12volt bateri end eich of them its 200 amps... That burn controller or noth

I think it's the fan why it seems so fast. I thought it was spinning at like 15K RPM, but I put a tach on it and it was like 7K.