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A fluffy white cat rather than an air brush in the thumbnail I think LOL

Very nice one Peter👍. I'm using the Mastertools (Trumpeter) Display cases nowadays. These seal dustfree and I stack them in a 'normal' cabinet. Love you display cabinets though.

Ww2 series profi pack 1/48 are the best ever!

I LOVED these as a kid in the 70s. I've started to recollect the original Matchbox kits again just lately. Finding them on eBay has great, but postage to Australia is crippling. I'm about halfway through so far and looking forward to getting them all.

Peter thanks for the review. I built the ICM Panther and it went together well. Really enjoyed it. I think Panther R04 fought and got knocked out at Kursk and there are before and after pictures of it. Nice subject. Did not know ICM had a mold of the King Tiger but agree regarding the tracks.

Id have to mortgage the kids to afford to build these kits.

Not sure why RFM had only a partial interior when they have a full engine. I admit some interior may be pointless but the turret seats are very visible as for any armour vehicle. The radio in the bustle same point. As well as radios in the hull visible through the side hatches. The Miniart kit goes for c.£65

Impressive collection Peter. i Have 3 cabinets ,corner unit (Glass) 5ft high 8 glass shelfs cost £200 and i added my own led lights and installed thin draught sealer around the door , zero dust, next cabinet £100 again 5ft high 1ft squared(Glass) 8 glass shelfs own led lights and draught sealer zero dust, last one mexican book case all wood 4ft by 3ft 25cm deep 4 shelfs added led lights , bought a large made to order acrylic sheet for the front which is screwed in bookcase cost 70 squid acrylic sheet 60. . No dust for me accept my 1/48 B29 and PBY a bit big for a cabinet :P and ive still run out of space , Ikea do some nice display cabinet for very reasonable prices, you have to be careful with lights halogens can melt your models.

Not able to watch the live review yesterday, I'm watching it now. As usual two nice kits by ICM. At the moment chances of building these two beauties are small; I've already got two different Tamiya Panthers and a Dragon King Tiger. Made two mistakes with the Dragon kit (reading instructions is a skill that needs to be kept up to date) but you can hardly see it. Can't help the million separate links it took me ages to finish the small tracks of my Tamiya 1/35 Somua S35. Dear o dear. For the rubber tracks you could always heat up the tip of a screwdriver. You're the only one who knows where you put them together.

Peter another good review. Even though the ICM 1/35 Panther D and King Tiger are not recent model releases, they offer excellent value for money for the novice modeller or returnees to the hobby to make a start. I would personally recommend a King Tiger as a model kit for the beginner to tackle. There are probably more than a dozen manufacturers who produce both the Panther D and King Tiger. The ICM versions stand up well with the other brands. Those who feel confident can replace the gun barrels and tracks with after market products. However it is the overall construction of the model kit and the paint finishes which bring scale models to life. The two colour callouts for the December 1944 Ardennes tanks 332 and 008 were attached to Kampgruppe Pieper who were responsible for the Malmedy Massacre. Any viewers can read up on this and the histories of each tank. The camouflage scheme with the is commonly known as the Ambush Camouflage. ICM’s box art work is what attracts me and I am sure many other modellers to their products. Rye Field Models are releasing a King Tiger in the near future which is greatly anticipated by many modellers. Peter this could be one for a future review?

Nice pair -Gru- Peter. Not a bad price considering the cost of the kits individually is around £33, so you save a tenner. Note that these kits are also re-boxed as Revell kits - and can be a tad cheaper bought individually. There is also a version of this King Tiger with a full interior, which is why some necessary internal detail is present in this kit, also available as a Revell re-boxing. That version also has individual track links, not rubber ones. I suspect that the rubber ones are glueable with normal polystyrene solvents, and the knobs will slip into the holes just right with that lubrication!

Still looks good to me! Perhaps my standards are not so high! Thanks Peter, great review as always. James.

T.h.A.N.K. You Peter for another brilliant review!👍🇬🇧

Hi like your cabinets but also what are those lamps you have on your model bench I really need one

Great video, Peter. My model-making days are well behind me, and I now live vicariously through a handful of model makers such as yourself. Perhaps you guys can use people like me as fractions to divide your stash cash value since a substantial part of your world comes from the generosity of demonstration? As for me, even the smallest, cheapest 1/72 kit should be considered as a gateway drug 😂. Don’t be too hard on yourselves … stay safe

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Morning Peter Thank you for this excellent video. I have a similar airbrush from iwata and following what you showed with taking the nib off with the spanner, I now have a Like new airbrush working again. Thank you Simon's modeling shed

One can never have enough Tiger 2s and Panther Ds in my opinion.

You have to start thinking outside the box! Fish tanks are quite cheap these days, and the fish love my models!

Well.. this is just money making...

Razor 🪒 Oxley! I can roll with that 😉🤣🤣

I recently found a company online that does custom sized Acrylic display boxes that are stackable if the same size. They are fairly reasonable too, £45~ for a case large enough for an Airfix Nimrod. Snapped up five for my V-Bombers and the Nimrod. Rest of my models are in a lit bookcase with glass doors, yet incredibly I’m still at war with the dust zombies…..

Thanks Peter. Great review as always. Cheers

Been through several Iwata, Harder and Steinbeck and Badger and now use a Ghaaleri airbrush. I find it so easy to clean and unlike my Iwata I can take off the entire paint cup to really get into the needle channel. This can be done on the H&S but I just can’t get on with it. Cleaning wise I’m one of those during a session if I’m spraying multiple colours within an hour or so it literally gets a bit of IPA in the cup, finger over the nozzle to back wash it then blast out the remainder. It get stripped fully, rarely 🤪

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Bloody good question....

Hi Peter, informative as always, thank you. I have also gone down the basic (cheap) route to get into airbrushing. You're absolutely correct, it's a good dip in the water experience and now I'm ready to splash out on something more sophisticated. Give it a try first and upgrade as you can afford to. Cheers James.

Thanks Peter for your insight on your airbrush preferences. Just like cars or wine you buy the best you can realistically afford and tend to stick faithfully to a certain brand. I have a Neo CN by Iwata with two different sized gravity feed cups, which is seen as an entry level model. However, this airbrush gives a broad spectrum of finishes and fairly fine lines for detail work. I mostly use the Neo CN for primer work and large coverage of single colour on aircraft, AFV’s and ships. Unfortunately like a good deal of modellers I have more than one airbrush in the painting arsenal. I also have the Ammo by Mig Jimenez Aircobra and Airviper airbrushes, after seeing a few reviews on UA-cam by some top modellers. One reviewer said he would be happy to use them for model painting and from years of experience suggested that they were manufactured by Badger because of the build quality and type of internal mechanism. I find them both very good to use, especially with the Ammo by Mig Jimenez acrylic paints which the airbrushes were designed for. I not only use Ammo acrylic paints but also use AK Interactive acrylics, Vallejo acrylics, Hataka acrylics and the good old trustworthy Tamiya acrylic paints. I’m not sure how airbrushes react to using lacquer based paints and certain types of metallic paints. I tend to keep away from using thinned enamel paints with the airbrush as to me they seem more difficult to clean from an airbrush. Everyone has their own preferences. So with airbrushes try one or a few of your modelling friends airbrush brands to see which one suits you! Sir! The same can be said for paints. Try them and see which brands you feel at ease with using. Looking forward to the next video Peter.

Enjoyed this video Peter 👍 I bought the Fengda Airbrush, it's served me very well so far.

Well done Pete, actually I nearly went and bought one and just changed my mind.

I wish Matchbox kits were still being produced

The biggest thing that turns me off from airbrushing is paint changes. I love this. Thank you.

Tanks are good 👍👀👀👀👀👀👀🍸🍸

And, what is in that glass?

Been through a few. I started with a Sparmax Flyer for large areas - easy to use, and I can have pre-loaded bottles. Do not by the Sparmax nozzle/bottle sets - there are after market bottles. I then bought a Sparmax Max3 dual action - this is a lovely airbrush, and easy to use for a beginner. I keep plenty of spare parts as well - there have been delivery issues to Oz. With cleaning between colours, in addition to cup cleaning, I pull the needle out the back, and wash lacquer solvent through with a nozzle bottle, and then replace the needle from the back... My most recent purchase is a Mr Procon Boy 290 0.5mm trigger gun - great for large areas and draining a paint jar. I bought a Chinese gun with three nozzle/needle sizes on Amazon. Haven't got it to work as yet though.

You have done a superb job maintaining the 15 year old airbrush.

I've been using an SMS Dragonair for the last year or so. It does a great job and is easy to strip. I strip it after every session and occasionally in the middle of a session if I'm doing a lot of different colours. I usually start with clears, then work my way up from lightest to darkest, although I usually leave metallics until the end. I don't often have to take the nib off, but sometimes it gets a bit clogged up, especially with primers. Usually spraying a decent amount of acetone through it clears it out. I'm using my workshop compressor and find it works well. Prior to the SMS I was using a Tamiya Spray Work airbrush. It worked well, but as the compressor is running all the time it is not so good for fine work.

I've got 3 x InfinityCR for acrylic, lacquer & metallics plus an Evolution for clear coats. It's not the colour change that's problematic, it's the switch from one paint type to another that causes problems, glue type reactions etc. The dedicated metallic is needed separately because the particles are so fine and virtually impossible to remove completely without a total strip down. Just my two penneth. Keep up the good work, been watching for long time Ad

Hi Peter, I know that you are a massive Matchbox fan do you have any spare parts Specifically I'm looking for a part for the Lysander 1/72 kit part number 13 the prop. thanks Martin

Hi Peter. A very brave video. I hope people listened very carefully to what you were saying. Overall I pretty much go along with what you say and do regarding cleaning my airbrush, though I have to say I try never to remove nib/nozzle. It is such a delicate part. I have an Iwata & a Harder & Steenbeck Ultra. Both are great imo. Thank you for another informative presentation.

You lot are a bad influence! I watched this video 3 days ago and now my stash has already grown by 50% to a total of 61 kits in the stash! 😂 A local shop was having a blow-out sale on Zvezda and Miniart products, and evidently I didn't have the strength to resist 😭

So glad you mentioned the colour cup cap Peter, the number of You Tubers I see doing aspray demos and the paint is slopping around in that open cup🥺I am screaming at the screen put the cap on!!!😤🤣Cheers. James (PS Phil should be reported for his airbrush abuse🤣🤣)

Not unusual at all Peter, I strip my AB down completely after every single spraying session, I could not imagine not doing it to be honest. Also if I might suggest, the Iwata Professional Maintenance Tools available from Amazon and elsewhere. It's a set of tools specifically designed for Iwata airbrush maintenance.

For a beginner I would probably suggest something like an H&S Ultra to start with and a compressor with a tank if I was starting now. The brush is easy to clean and you can get spares if needed. If possible use lacquer paints as they are more forgiving than acrylics. Cheap airbrushes are Ok but I found the seals degrade quite quick and you end up spending more time and frustration trying to get them to work. Like any tool, you can find some you like and some you don't even though they do the same job. Swapping to a compressor with a tank made a lot of difference as the pressure was more consistent. For practicing with an airbrush, get a cheap printed outline canvas picture from Hobbycraft and paint that. Useful for filling large areas as well as details, patterns and so on.

I love my Iwata's, but I also use an old Badger 150 for metallics and I bought a Gaahleri GHAD-39, which is currently £30 on Amazon ( normally £45 ). Quite a nice brush for the price. You shouldn't take the needle out the rear of the brush as any paint on the needle gets pushed up against the needle seal. Always take it out the front. When reassembling I don't see any reason why the needle can't be inserted from the rear, I always do.

Cool tool. 🛠

peter,new subscriber here. i have a few high end airbrushes however i have for the past 6 months used my fengda for everything and it gets better and better,no differing results.keep up the good work

I use my airbrush to spray wine directly into my mouth. I might have a problem.

I do a total tear down in between models for the same reasons you spoke of.

I use interdental brushes to clean mine. Get them from Asda in the dental isle cheap and last a while and won’t damage the finish on the airbrush. I also use beeswax to seal the joints just a smidge is good enough and super lube I only use on top of the air valve plunger. Had my two HP-CH’s and HP-BP for about ten years now but I also have a few of the cheaper Chinese knockoffs. I will polish the needles though and lap the needle to the nozzle that way they seal together better and the flow is more controlled. I use the cheap ones for gloss coating, Matt or semigloss, metallic or “hot paints” my iwatas I only use model air, model colour, Tamiya and Life Color paints. The HP-BP has a .2 needle as is extremely good for ultra fine work mainly for figures camouflage clothing faces and eyeballs the HP-CH’s are good for everything else and having the MAC valve makes easy work of splattering mud effects, fuel stains etc less less than a cocktail stick and paintbrush anyway 🤣🤣🤣 oh for polishing my needles I use the wife’s BRASO on a cloth but for goodness sake’s don’t tell her or she’ll have a new pair of dangly earrings… if you know what I mean 😳🙄🤪 Another brilliant video Peter, thanks very much for sharing your time with us. Take care, Kenny 😁👍👍👍👍👍👍