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FWIW, the alco centipede tenders made by bli have multiple screws holding them together, and you have to remove the press fitted cut lever to be able to separate the halves without breaking the lever itself.

I mean their speakers only cost a few cents. There's some 4ohm 3w ebay speakers that I like that aren't too expensive just about $4 per and perform way better. Granted they do cost an order of magnitude more than those do. For my purposes, I don't have enough engines to where the extra cost is a big enough deal; I notice the quality of the sound more.

Can u publish the files

Oh yeah definitely, even through a video I can tell the sound has been "smoothed out" and made less tinny. It also to me sounds like the deeper/bass can be heard much clearer vs without it that is drowned out quite a bit. I own a P2 M1a myself and I don't actually mind the P2 era sounds either. They're not annoying, in your face or obnoxious like the P3 and later sounds are. The audio is good. Heck I had a friend who put their audio in Trainz Railroad Simulator because they sound good. You could definitely have a business selling those speaker baffles now, lol.

I've seen 28mm bass speakers that would go as far as to undermine BLI's rolling thunder system (most being ones used for people's lightsaber replicas, which need a lot of bass), but this is a good result for the effort and costs involved! I do wonder how different it would be using those speakers though.

Interesting, I heard a difference. It sounded a little better.

I got two Blueline M1's so they may be exactly the same to fit on those enclosures. By the way man, the new Q2's are coming, so I am really interested to see if I need to make a comparison video between the two toolings. Not really a review, perhaps, but just for fun.

Upgrading to Scale Sound Systems speakers will upgrade sound quality for sure.

The speakers are not the best though, it would really make a difference with a bass enhanced with enclosure and a mid size sugar cube again with enclosure. Just me, but if I forked out on an expensive loco like BLI ...I wouldn't go cheap on the guts...opinions vary...

This a reupload?

I have those same coaches except mine are Southern Pacific instead of Santa Fe.

Bachmann or shapeways if you don't know what model.

Cheap shit made in CHI-NAH

I got Toby that's as tv style if you're interested to see it. Yours is realistic considering Thomas has a number of faces.

Just managed to get one (1st run) finally, can you give me a heads up on body removal screws? ...Thanks...Andy.

Hi, i recently got a ho scale Walthers proto Amtrak amfleet phase 1 VI passenger car of the issue I have is getting coupler to lineup correctly with kadee coupler height gauge on track. Could one solution be to of fixing this issue to use nylon washer to put underneath body passenger car and on to truck wheels to adjust height of coupler lineup better with kadee coupler height gauge there?

Thank you. This video is just what I was looking for.

Much appreciated. I thought my smoke was always on as well with my HO Scale BLI Paragon 2 NYC Hudson 😅😂

What about replacing the smoke unit with a water smoke one like the hornby steam generator locos use where it doesn't heat up.

I have a nice 2-8-2 Mikado steamer🚂in HO scale made by I.H.C. Runs good but does not smoke. Oh well,can't win 'em all. Last year during the holidays I used it to pull my Coca-Cola train under the🎄.I may just do it again this year.Christmas & trains just go together like peas🟢 &🥕 carrots,as Forrest🪶 Gump would say.

Hope I get one of these bad boys for Christmas

They are not the king of affordibility. What a joke! They are junk and overpriced. You can buy other models with superior quality and cheaper.

highly informative as always from you. I would be sure to check the weights on the front and back trucks to see how much weight they need to get the driver weights all the same (in the finescale world, we test the axle and wheel weights down to the 10th of a gram sometimes, and many have tuning screws on the springs of their wheels, which allows non traction tyre engines to pull more than many ones with them), because if the weight on the drivers is off significantly, it can cause the whole engine to be off balance, which affects haulage and track stability. Anyways, everything looks a lot better!

Was wondering if there were alternate city boards. In my neck of the woods they display St. Louis or Kansas City. (The Missouri River Runner, whose logo is printed on the side.)

Nice job on them I hope to see more soon.

*LOL*

Have you thought about adding a lens in the headlight?

Based. Excellent work man!

This another EXCELLENT video episode. Huge difference. Huge ATSF fan. Looks like you may have to switch scales pretty soon....we'll be waiting for you. Keep up the excellent build videos.

Not all large steam loco models have the cab blend into the front of the tender height wise as well as the MTH.

You you please comment on the unit’s reliability, especially on 18” curves?

The only BLI model that I have is the Northern Pacific A-3 (it's numbered 2665 and is a Paragon 4 model). I haven't really had any major problems with it whatsoever, although the smoke unit isn't the most reliable.

Happy 10th anniversary!

This was one of the first locomotives I bought new. Absolutely loved it to pieces. As time progressed, it would grow tired from its years of strenuous work and damn near a hundred hours in a younger me’s hands. It would also become my first ever kitbashed project, with me adding a whistle, new headlight (though not lit) among other things. Earlier this year, I decided to re build the locomotive and ordered a new sound value chassis and tender. I spent several hours adding a new tender coal bunker, a new headlight (that was lit this time), as well as a few little brass details. For anyone who is willing to sacrifice pulling power for freedom of customization, I would whole heartedly recommend this locomotive! Love mine to pieces and am happy to have a childhood locomotive back in action!

Very useful video, thanks. I like your additions to fill in the unsightly gap under the firebox!

Westside ATSF 2-8-2......yes Brass Masterpiece 100%.

Oof, that would be pretty wild if the PRR L1 chassis was indeed re-used and slightly re designed to work for the ATSF 4000 class. Makes one wonder now if that tooling was changed for that model's sake like the PRR H10 was used to make the fake consolidation engines.

Restore some ATSF 2-8-2 Locomotives and I’ll use them for Tourist operations on some Branchline Railroads and Shortline Railroads for tourist excursion operations.

I don't model HO.....I am an O Scaler who runs 2-rail equipment. But your video and your work is simply EXCELLENT. Just thought you should know. I'm going to subscribe to your channel because I admire your workmanship.

Are you selling those 3D printed components?

That is very good! The model looks a lot better now! 👍👍

So much better! Now my next question will u make the frame pieces for sale? Enjoy your videos!👍

THAT is a BIG engine 😅

wrong trucks, heavyweight passenger cars used 3 axle trucks

I just got a Nickel Plate (KMT) Brass Milwaukee Road Hiawatha F7 Hudson and it runs good on straight track, but it shorts out on my 22-inch curves when the pilot wheels come into contact with the aerodynamic cowling in front of the cylinders. is there a way to isolate to prevent this or does this loco likely need bigger radius curves? I also plan on remotoring the loco to a can motor but i am unsure of what can motor type to use.

Small steam is super underrated in today's market. I don't need the next version of Big Boy, I want a 4-4-0 to pull some small trains on my future layout.

Where do I find the correct decoder to use?

The wire broke off of my plug as well. Can you tell me the make and size of the plug that you made? Did you also have to change the plug on the tender? Thanks! Good video!

Puller is not a “basic” tool but a specialty tool not available at common tool retailers. Still good job explaining the process!

I do installs almost exactly the same way - notch the smokebox for the light wires, buy LEDs and connectors in bulk, add pickups to all wheels, and so on. I really appreciate the stuff I find difficult , keep alives, mounting the speaker, clear glass paste to center the LED. Now I feel confident to add sound to an identical 0-4-0j