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Gday mate any tips for my 1998 WR400F? I can only get it started from bumping it

Just did my lower ball joints at 170k. Got a bit scary with the grinding noise when turning especially when youre going down the freeway trying to get home. 70 bucks for two new genuine ball joints and about 2.5 hours work to replace them. Cant complain these things aren't expensive to keep on the road.

Looks like a $hit of a job ... 15 years ago I bought an AU EX taxi with 500K on the clock . Lucky they didn't drill holes in the roof . The diff whined , trans slipped and in the end the engine made a horrible grinding noise but it never stopped . I retired it with over 700K on the clock and bought an Egas BA sedan . My EF , EL , AU and BA all suffered from the dreaded sagging roof lining and were held up with a million staples . The BF wagon we just bought has a good roof lining so you can be lucky sometime .

Another good video . Disc brakes sure make the job easier than drum brakes . I did a few diff swaps on the old drum brake falcons in the past . It was easier pulling out the axles , unclipping the brake line from the diff housing and taking the backing plates off than trying to undo brake lines and hand brake cables .

Just about to pick up an identical one of these, having had a blue one back in ..... yikes 1980. The videos will be a great help as I embark on my journey so thanks for posting

I've got an SY1 AWD Territory with the same knock. I checked absolutely everything in my front end last Sunday and found basically nothing in the bush department except sway bar rubbers that were about the same as yours. All ball joints, and control arm bushes seem fine. Because of that, I did run a spanner and socket over everything and found many loose-ish bolts. I was hoping the subframe and upper control arm bracket mount bolts were the cause as some were fairly loose actually but it made no difference. On Monday, my phone detecting my swearing and the still persistent mystery front end clunk, must've sent the data to the UA-cam algorithm gods so here I am. I did no UA-cam search but this vid was in my feed none the less. It is an SY1 Territory and I was going to bite the bullet and convert it to SY2 front suspension for about $1200 in parts once and for all. While it was apart I was going to do the front diff bushes, CV shafts, tie rods and tie rod ends. I did find a broken boot on one of my sway bar links so I was going to get some new adjustable links and Nolathane D-rubbers anyhow, but after seeing this vid I'm ordering them on eBay right now before doing any bloody SY2 control arm and knuckle conversion LOL.

My first bike I ever drove on the road a gt 185 brings back lots of memories thank you for sharing you're videos and sharing them

Love it - thanks for sharing

When do you plan on stripping the FCR carb ?

The flaring is the lock up converter locking and unlocking when the oil is cold. Usually occurs in 5th gear at around 70khr. That trans looks like a ZF 6HP26 6 speed with a plastic sump. The plastic pan also has an in-built filter in it as well as two magnets to catch any metal. The plastic pan should be replaced. Whislt the pan is off you should also change the mechantronics seal, bridge seal and the four pressure tube seals as these harden and go flat and dont seal the inner trans pressures which causes poor shifting. Get original OEM ZF seals as there not that expensive. The gear box oil is suppossed to be Lifeguard 6 (expensive) specifically made for ZF gear boxes by ZF. The Lifegaurd fluid is a honey brown colour so it looks like you have the correct oil already in there. FEBI make a fluid that is the same as LF6 and its cheaper. That trans holds approx 8 litres with the the pan replacement and there is about 3 litres in the converter. There is a specific filling routine to follow and the trans fluid needs to be @ 40 deg C and the engine ruuning with a fine drip drip drip from the fill hole when the level and temp is correct, then put the fill plug back in. As you have a lot of stuff in the way it would be a solid full day under there to get all the stuff off to get that pan out and replaced. Holding 4th gear at 110 kmh on the freeway for 10-15km will blow all that shit out of the exhaust. Edit: Corrected spelling mistakes and grammar.

Hey can you tell me where the best place is to get parts like the boots for the carburetor in any other parts I just got my GT 185 and I'm wanting to redo it I just not sure where to get my parts from

Excellent video footage, very clear and can follow what you're doing perfectly. 👌

Awesome!

Love your work, thanks for sharing!

Where’d you ground the battery to? I’m in the final stage of my own restoration of one of these and I can figure it out for the life of me and it would appear that I forgot to take a picture of it when I ripped the thing apart two years ago.

DID my time on taxis i did thousands of these they are very easy to do always fit new chain an guides since ur doing this drive shaft replacement

Hey mate how did you get the nuts behind the sway bare bracket? Or are the screws self tapping? On the outer side

I know it's months on, but it's a great video on the yamaha. I have a yz450. Great knowledge. Where is part two? Also, for the falcon water pump and thermostat video. Also great

You failed to do your research when fitting those bushes they need to be lubed with a special grease otherwise over time they will tear apart...and your concerns about your own safety when using the press are a joke...if you had a bad accident whos going to pay your medical bill if your found negligent ...This is why home handymen should not take on these jobs !!!

Great vid but it'd be no later than early 2008 to be a BF....My FG was built in April 2008..otherwise terrific...

Mark, you are Star well explained front mount and muffler was tricky you help ✔️ more Dude's lake you 👏 👌

In my opinion Ford got it right with EF and AU with no dizzy why ford went back to dizzy i don’t know why silly in my opinion when crank angle sensor and coil pack is way better than the stupid, dizzy

Cool video love your work

I brought a xh 96 series one xr6 Ute about five years ago it had the el model red cover engine with the dizzy in underneath the bbm intake manifold the Ute is a manual with the xr 3.45.1 lsd diff quite fun to drive I done a huge Summernats style burn out in the Ute and pretty much cooked the engine got it really hot blew the head off it basically blew both back tyres anyway after that I got on fb marketplace and found a series one intech AU xr6 engine with low ks on it and put it the Ute and yes I had to cut and modify the alloy sump for it to fit into the xh k frame I dropped in the other blown engines dizzy and worked how to time it by bridging two pins in the diagnosis plug so I could get the ecu in limp mode otherwise I had one minute to get my base timing correct I found being a xr6 Ute in the workshop manual told me that the position of the dizzy is in a different position to the base model gli el or log manifold Longreach Ute so after removing the dizzy three times and moving it around a few teeth at a time I eventually, got the timing correct I found driving it in between pulling the dizzy out three times the engine lacked power and would run lots hotter until I found the correct tooth and dizzy position after that she has balls again no getting hot 🔥.. but what I’m trying to say here is I never had a issue with the cog ⚙️ playing up in the AU engine three years running.. I’m lucky!! By rights I should of put the AU synchroniser cog on my el Xh dizzy but the engine didn’t come with that bit the other thing I’ve done was brought a whole Ef engine harness and dash loom to get rid of the el xh dizzy and pulled out my whole dash to do so but seems a little hard for me to do and I’ve put it back to the original XH wiring loom gave up on the idea of trying to run no dizzy in my xh Ute

Hey mate that lubricant they supply is only to be put inside of the metal shaft they supply for the eyelet bushing,its not meant to be put on any surface that touches the rubbers!

Thanks for the video. Don't think I have any knocks going on but it's good to see this stuff for guidance. I don't touch my car because I am too scared of screwing something up. These videos are good for education when you don't have mechanically minded friends to help out (I've only got the service manual and even those lack in a bit of info or are unclear sometimes)

i wonder if you can help , my Suzuki GT 125 1976 has no power down to the condeners ,but power to lights ;horn /batt ok ;any idea;s =thanks malcom ;;

Looks like previous owner stripped the [alloy housing] thread on the original 10mm tensioner retaining bolt then replaced it using a bolt with a 1/2" head. These retaining bolts should be tightened to just 25 NM.

Thanks mate I'm about to do the same job

Its a link pin

Those nipples fell out of mine too I lve used tape so far worked great

nice movie

I used stag instead of buying to o ring to seal the fuel pump assembly

Actually just bought a GT185. These series are gonna help a lot. Might take my time a bit more, just to save up for the esthetic parts like the chrome and stuff. But that's every man's own taste. Technically this is gonna be a real help! Probably gonna be watching this a few times

Hello good fella, I enjoyed & found your video very helpful. One thing that I'm still confused about is you did not show the assembly of how the switch is assembled. I have just a copper u-shape & a little spring and that's all. I can't figure out how she works or goes back together. Anything you can share would be appreciated. JTK 53

Coils be so pricey. But one day like it. Thanks

Lpg wagon. Just cut out on me. Big prob n dangerouse strarts bad. Thought maybe lpg. Guy goes na cant fault it. Hope ignition sorts it. Thanks really good vids'

It does it n nuetral bad springs im hopr not mechanical.

Ignition swicth. Hope'

Re sale na it owns me now. But is a sweet motor n diff think so.

Yer got a clung in there rear when turn right. Will get to it in time. Cos the ignition been a prob. Have replaced alot + head liner. One day be nice' thanks

Good stuff mate! That came up a treat!

Another great video. Do you happen to remeber the part number for the rubber sleeve on the fuel pump assembly? TIA

Thanks for the video, we now have to replace the motor in my lad's XG ute for this exact reason, as the auxiliary drive shaft ended up chewing into the block. It's a shame they dont have a bearing to house them.

Hey mate did the dizzy completely stop stop spinning or did it just have a dead spot where it was throwing the timing off even more every time the crank rotates? I’ve chucked a new dizzy in mine, and as far as I can tell it’s all good but it’ll only try to run, or backfire The shaft does feel like it’s got 2-3mm of play in it, but does feel like it’s still connected and spinning

Rear main seal leak

Fantastic vidieo thank you ,oh and the gloves would give you a better grip too. Gotta except stupid comment hey ,you are so helpful and explainations are awesome🚘🚘🚘🚘🚘🚘🚘🚘🚘🛻🛻🛻🛻🛻🛻🛻🚗🚗🚗🚗🚗🚗🚗

Thanks for both videos very helpful. When you took the bolts off the sump to remove/fit timing cover did you need to jack up anything as well as loosen engine mounts to get clearance or just pry open the sump a bit? Gotta replace timing cover gasket and seal. Love these videos great work.

when timing it up and you had the 1st piston at tdc, which general direction to the rotor inside the dizzy point? just picked up a e series missing the dizzy and i’m trying to time it up

I think this is the issue with my EL, was driving and it just stopped, someone had fitted the after market distributor. Pulled the dizzy and the gear is chewed out. So I guess I will have to do this.