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My truck is a 06 sierra 1500 it vibrates the front wheels only in reverse when turning does anybody have an idea what this would be?

My truck is a 06 sierra 1500 it vibrates the front wheels only in reverse when turning does anybody have an idea what this would be?

Vent line that goes to gas tank has a baffle sometimes baffle gets stuck i stuck my finger in there lossened it up now works

Works fine for me thanks.

D A W G! Thanks for the Doorman part # for the bleeder kit.

Wish I had time to do my dad’s TJ!

So I bought the same replacement as the part number I took off and it was taller than the original….twice! Would it still have fit? I’m sure I didn’t know what I was doing but I returned them. I have the exact same mower still sitting in the barn years later. I’ll try the part you recommended. Thanks for the video! Us SWF gotta git er done!

Just had my transmission recased because transfer case locked up and broke the transmission adapter and cracked the transmission case. My transmission guy swapped the case and I put it in and it wouldn’t shift. I did code scan on my Marco scanner and it showed 0 codes. I went into ABS and seen the pending rear abs wheel speed sensor code, and cleared it. All is well!! I went ahead and bought a new VSS just to be 100%. Thanks SO GREATLY!!!

fantastic video. Thank you!

Video 💯 useful

How hard is getting the doghouse off on one of these? Got a job on one Monday. 97 e350 motorhome with a v10.

Anybody seen these for a 03 single cab? Not having any luck as of right now

Great Video. Where to get the exact key fobs? Thank you

Thank you so much brother. Made this job affordable and step by step.

Glad your links removed pretty easy. I tried pickle fork and heat. Had to remove bar,cut links off then press out bolts ! I went ahead and replaced stabilizer and grease boots on tie rods. . Thanks for video, cause i have to reassemble all.

Thank you! I found the most useful information started at 11:28. I was already at the point of trying to bleed the system, all repairs done, etc. and that's where the insight was. Thanks again!

My car is making a loud rattling noise and even after taking the fluid and changing it the noise is still there. Could it be some kind of bearing in the transmission?

word to the wise - clock and radio settings are not worth the effort of hooking up more equipment, just reprogram them

The bulb has the resistor included?

Great video. I like that you did t freak out when the new harness was screwed up. I have to do my truck this weekend and will use the original harness if I can.

Those flex head ratchets.....only thing they are good for is making your knuckles bleed.😅😅😅 Loving all these jeep videos

OUTSTANDING VIDEO. Thnk u!!!

I have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport, 4.0L 6 cyl, 5-speed manual transmission. Bought it in 2010, and don't think it has ever had Transmission fluid OR Front/Rear differential fluids changed. It only has about 80k original miles on it and runs perfectly. Only had it in the sand once in North Carolina and had no problems with all tires aired down to about 10 psi. But now I am starting to do all the maintenance that I have neglected over the years. I have already replaced front disk pads, rotors, and calipers, and rear drum shoes, springs, etc, cleaning everything as I went with plenty of BrakeCleaner. Fixed the E-brake, and it works well now. I engineered a system to drain the fuel tank by jumpering the fuse box to allow the fuel pump to operate with the engine turned off, to empty out 2 year old gas, then ran SeaFoam and fresh gas through two whole tank-fulls to clean the fuel rail. I have replaced the battery, water pump, all belts, spark plugs, air filter, and the occasional plastic things that you always break on a 24 year vehicle when working on it.. lol. It has every option on it that Jeep made back in 2000, including A/C. It came with both a hard top and rag top, and spare doors. It has NO rust underneath anywhere. (I live in Virginia Beach, VA) However, now I want to do the fluid changes on both differentials and the transmission. My concern is in identifying the exact front and rear diffs to put the correct amount (and type) of gear oil in, and whether my 5-speed is Synchromesh or not. From reading most of the posts here, I believe I have the DANA 30 in the front, and probably the DANA 35 in the rear (Everything on this Jeep is original) But, how can I tell for sure? I will attach pictures if I can to show what I am looking at, and hope someone can verify my assumptions. I will add that I also have a 2011 Toyota Tundra Crewmax 4X4 and have done all of the differential and Xfer case fluid exchanges on it, so I am familiar (in general) with the basic procedures. I just want to know EXACTLY what kind of axles/differentials I have on this Jeep. All inputs will be welcomed.. Thanks in advance. Randy

Thanks for vid, exactly what i had to do, would never done it without seeing the vid. , luv the creeper gotta get me one

Why didn't you change just the tensioner pulley.... instead of the whole tensioner assembly??

IMPORTANT NOTE: Reinstall that section of air intake hose BEFORE you try to restart your truck... cause your truck WILL NOT run without it installed!!! LOL

That coolant you’re using is only for 2013 and newer models. They make one in the same brand for 2000 and newer models

Thanks for making this. You saved me from thousands in shop costs.

Followed step by step and probably saved thousands in shop labor. Thank you so much for making this video. I couldn’t have done it without it.

Followed step by step and probably saved thousands in shop labor. Thank you so much for making this video. I couldn’t have done it without it.

If you can't get the fill plug out you can always do this with the vehicle inverted.

So it's possible that someone tried to break in?

What size are the screws

What if the tire easily pulls side to side while jacked up. Is that normal

Looked like a good workout, I like the heating tip. Thank you for sharing

My 32yr old deck sounds ok.

I had mine disconnected to see if the gas pump would run and it STILL shuts off. I first had my gas vent replaced and THAT wasn't the fix either. My mechanics are telling me they are baffled, and all they can think to do is drop the tank ($1500) to see the lines above the tank. HELP!! I'm a widow on a fixed income. I think with so many having this same issue, there should be a recall of some kind

They’re beautiful! I want a set of these on my 97 Sahara. I’ve seen so many videos about people with older Jeeps having a problem with newer halos, that I sort of backed off on this mod for a minute. I really do want to put a set on, I like the look of them on or off. You make this look easy! Yep… we’ll have to put it to the test this summer! 😎. Thank you.

Looks like a lot of work

Thank you so much for the well made video ! I am a backyard mechanic who has a 2004 and 2005 TJ and your video gives me the courage to attempt it myself. Looks like it's a costly replacement that can be done since you have given everything that is needed to get it done ! Thanks so much for the methodical and detailed step by step instructions for for teaching this ! Your a true Jeeper and I appreciate the help very much !!

Would a pressure washer work for cleaning it out?

Flaming soldering iron, nice! Thank you for sharing

Did you really get all there screw back into the cover. I can’t seem to get the one behind the console. If you have a trick to accomplish this let me know..

I'd like to apologize for this being off topic and very long. I just don't know what to do. I have a 2003 Toyota Camry Xle 3.0v6. It has 134,000 miles. I had this ideal to do some preventative maintenance on my car so I thought I'd clean the throttle body, mass airflow sensor and cleaned the battery terminals. I never removed the throttle body just so you know. Well I cleaned the throttle body which wasn't dirty at all but anyways after I did all the cleaning and put everything back together of course it ran really bad just barely stayed running. I'm assuming they do that after cleaning the throttle body and unhooking the battery. So I didn't do any ideal relearn thing I just took it out on a long drive and all was good after that or so I thought. Before doing the maintenance a cold start up my rpms would always be 1400 until it warmed up and it would slowly drop. But now ever since I did the maintenance a cold start up is almost 2000 rpm but drops as it warms up. So what do you think happened? The car runs and ideals fine just to high of a rpm now after the maintenance. Some people say a vacuum leak but wouldn't the car run rough or have a steady high rpm? Ive been reaped off by every mechanic around here and I can't afford to take it to a dealership. I wish I knew of a good honest mechanic here in Kentucky. I drove to Tennessee once to see Scott Kilmer just because of these so called mechanics around here. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks so much. My sister is strong as an Ox and thinks brutal force will fix everything! That's why I have a broken front passenger door handle. And, before watching your quick video, a stuck tailgate. I popped off the cover - couldn't get to it with shield in the way - on my 2002. Did as shown, but until I get replacement, I attached it with heavily sticky duct tape to hold it for now. Ain't going anywhere 😂 Other than my door handle - that I just today, as I'm writing this, managed to 'McGyver' with said duct tape enough to open without having to constantly climb

Thanks for doing this video. Came in handy for my LJ repairs. So far so good. The strap for the dash was effective for the core removal and install. Thanks again.

Where to buy these items?

Mine arrives on the 26th. Ill be watching this again once it arrives

I fixed mine a few minutes ago. That paddle switch presses onto the electrical connectors for the motor. There is only one screw holding it tight. That screw is screwed into the acrylic plastic. Over time the plastic around the screw cracks allowing the paddle switch to slightly separate from the motor. When you push it in it works for a while until it jiggles loose again because the screw isn't holding it tight.

Can you be more specific about where the other end of the wiring harness is?