Відео

Zero sound with the clutch in. It's the transaxle. I suspect I sheered 3rd during a pull.

I already have LACT electric linear actuators on the wing. They do pitch and height. But, they are too slow to do pitch control for active aero braking. The wing takes about 1 second to go from low drag to full aero brake. That's nowhere near fast enough to dynamically respond to brake and accelerator actions. The LACT units also have a maximum duty cycle of 20%. So they would not survive long doing continuous positioning. That's a task for hydraulics or in this case pneumatics due to weight.

Did you do a calculation on the force needed?

@@vdtogt You bet! Plenty of force at speeds that it may see at the track.

This will be hooked to a small carbon fiber accumulator tank from a paintball gun. Then I have a dual acting three way solenoid that will feed the pair of these cylinders. The air system is going to control wing pitch in a fraction of a second for behavior similar to a McLaren wing. However, because of the odd shape of this car it needs WAY more height to be effective. For that the LACT units will be responsible for gradual extension and retraction of the wing like they currently do on my V 1.0 wing. The difference is after I add the air actuation the wing pitch will no longer be tied to height.

@@dodadscarworks973 Wow. Thank you for the explanation. Fraction of a second response time is incredibly impressive. I hope we get to see the testing phase of V 2.0 active wing 😎 All the best man 👍🏽

I'm considering sealing the trunk and ducting radiator air out of the hood. That Lambo is on another level! I want to get to the actuator speed of the McLaren. That stuff I at least understand.

@@QuadCamSix let me correct myself, I meant to say to active aero to take away downforce. I see roughly a actuator controlled vent that sent airflow under the car instead of thru the radiator section. After seeing the visual demo it seemed doable but that's only because I keep watching this great channel 😀

Too small with the turbo. The car needed 3x as much flow. I did like the sound though.

It was 2042 lbs (1/3rd full fuel tank) before I removed the heavy FlowMaster exhaust or installed the wing actuators. The car should be somewhere between 15 and 20 lbs lighter than last time I weighed it just from swapping out the exhaust. I have also done things like replace the front bumper crash bar with a Magnesium alloy that weighs half as much. I will be putting it back on the scales this weekend if I have time. I am really curious too.

@@QuadCamSix wow that's impressive, nearly sub 900kg with a hardtop. I hope you keep posting on this build, it's genuinely exciting to see what you've been tinkering on. Thanks for sharing 👍🏽

@@Kapil-Patel FWIW, the car is down to 1988.8 lbs now.

LOL you joke but I have actually seen people post videos of things I put on SpyderChat as if they came up with them. Whatever.... this is not my day job. If 5k more clicks gets you gas money I say feel free to steal my content. This one however is an awful lot of work. I don't expect to be copied for a while. Even if I am I left a few bugs in my code that require copy cats to prove they are worthy.

Thanks. Still tweaking it a bit but where it really needs down-force is the first three gears. Even with sticky tires it just spins them.

Of course! I need to get the speed pulse input working so the wing does not pitch up when sitting at a stop on the brake.

Here's the best I can do for now. ua-cam.com/video/0mxOcSWfQ9c/v-deo.html

Is it really? Take a look at the wing actuating pitch. It's about 1 second from full air brake to regular pitch ua-cam.com/video/18GtUa8LeHI/v-deo.htmlsi=NWNxbrlqzp01pbmz

About 6 years.

Not great. The VIS top is not 100% straight and had to be bonded to the chassis and still is not as flat as the rear deck as I would like. The hood and engine cover both required the hinges to be drilled to line up well. The hood and trunk gaps are terribly large. Not sure why all aftermarket companies do that but all have huge gaps.

@@QuadCamSix sounds like is very complicated to install and hard to line up perfectly. Thanks for letting me know. Your car looks great.

The mounting tabs had to be cut off and rewelded so that the shifter would be centered. That's it aside from some krinkle paint touch up.

@@QuadCamSix Ah right, I haven't looked too far into it. Some of the people mounting Honda billet shifters have to switch linkages backwards etc. So I was curious what you had to do to make it work. I'm building a Spyder tarmac rally car, but there's plenty to do on it before the shifter moves to the top of the 'Shit that isn't good enough' list.

I have them on my MR2 Spyder now. Yes the work. The old version 1 was quite slow and the manual setting was quite annoying. I guess it was better than having to pop the hood each time I wanted to change the setting. The EDFC Active Pro is pretty sweet these days. However, even though the controller responds to G forces immediately, the servos can lag. For example going from full hard to soft can take almost a second. I have a panic button for a preset mode if a large bump is coming up or something so I can instantly make the suspension full soft. If the car is in race mode and I hit that button I can count just about 1 second full sweep to soft mode.

I know its years later but i did this to my v70 a while back and it made a difference when i was in new mexico, i saw my intake temps drop several degrees under load. Only works in lower humidity. Also helps to add alcohol to the water. I use distilled water and 90% rubbing alcohol. Post covid i use heet

Fabricated adapter myself. It's a hex head screw that fits the servo. Then a cut off allen key was welded to the screw head. This allows the servo to drive the strut adjustment.