Відео

This was my starter motor and it worked like a dream

Is that the original frame cut or a custom one

Let me know on exhaust manifolds too Thanks

how much are you looking to sell the car for..?

Where are the driveshafts sitting? I’m assuming that’s why the engine is so high? I do like you sharing your thought process when designing this stuff.

It’s your car , you build it your way. Only thing I ask is please don’t make a “project binky” out of it . I’m an old man and don’t know if I’ll live that long.😉

Awesome build 😍 It's coming together 😎👍

Engine seems too high

Just to add my bit of input peeps … Fabricate some new front hubs and use the new ish lathe that’s coming soon to bore out the bearing housing ( presumably a Colchester) . This will allow a smaller scrub radius plus it will bring the wishbones out and use a shallower wheel rim . More engine bay space to lower the engine. That will give you the excuse to make a new drivetrain for the diff with the help of your new lathe to bore it out . That chunk of alloy that you need can be teased from Carls Hoard when you give him a Christmas best wishes call . As could the alloy if you made new hubs . Alternatively spin the engine through 180 degrees + rearward and drop it lower and make a new drivetrain, exhaust through the rear bulkhead and a ram air intake . By the time that is all done next Christmas will be here and you can then buy a new diff from a front wheel drive car utilising the CWP to make a drop gear reverse rotation gearbox. That will be done with the help of the new milling machine you will be forced to buy because some daft subscriber made some suggestions .🤭👍🙄. You know it makes sense

36mm is also the size of a VW Beetle rear axle nut.

Wow the sealant squeeze out on those cases is crazy

Why not offset the engine to the nearside so its even between the suspension tube you are making, then you can drop the engine?

What coil over shocks are you using and what is the travel and the spring rate? I see a little black knob on the lower end, are they single adjustable?

Does the engine need to be so high?

Why have the engine so high? The radical would have a dry sump

When you first said idea of making the front bar as a single loop through both of those top wishbone mount holes thought that will be a bending challenge considering the tight hole tolerances 👍

Did think one of the added advantages of the dry sump would be to lower the engine in the chassis, could you not offset the engine an inch to the passengers side to get it lower considering driver weight on the right?

Matt you call it a van , I assume your fitting panels over the rear window openings .. or is it an estate

Always great work. Front engine looks awesome but weird.

Be interesting to see any restrictions in the air filter as not alot of surface area but suppose taking into account both sides simular to the original air box

Bigger lathe, bigger projects 😎

Great work on the z car, really enjoyed learning from that one ! That body is now proper solid ! Well done ! Can’t wait for the next car to come in 🙏🏻

Are you considering selling your old lathe and if so a rough price ???

Upgrading and more work coming, Great to see and hear.

Go Turbo!

And any other parts your not using That’s Vince

What’s not to like about simple horsepower.

Cool moves mate.

Hi matt if your not using exhaust manifold, I’ve got a Radical and I need one so if you don’t use them, let me know thanks Vince

260 out of 1500cc sounds insane for someone used to tuned A-series engines 😅

Hi Matt, sounds like a good plan, steady power, no boost spinning your wheels.😄

Saw the Thumbnail and i was stunned. Radical FTW

Sound - should have kept my 1275GT

Hi Matt, great job, lucky you checked the regs, I need to do the same on mine. Did you get the nozzles, line and cables with the kit. Just need to buy the exterior and interior pull handles. Great job on the front towing eye.

It’s the little details that make or break the car

If you space the bonnet leading edge up but leave the gap open it will allow air through to the radiator- make the gap a function instead of trying to hide it. As long as it is even it will look ok and ‘race car’ 👍

Yours is the most intelligent content on YT. Thanks again for bringing us your cool projects. Safe to say these cars are "sub-zero" cool

Good stuff 👍

Thanks for the info update Matt, Good Job, and thanks for my cost list on my car, to get the Busa Turbo in your garage based on what you have done on other Z cars Jan 25😁

Love the attention to detail

Another masterclass of how to make something that is not quite right look as if it is. Impressed.

Hi would you know where the rear defuser is made , keep up the good work

Super neat job Skiddy

I fitted my fibreglass bonnet with 4 of those pop buttons like you are thinking and the front ones are a pain as you need 3 hands to pop the buttons, pull it forward and then do each back one while lifting. Ones at back OK but may be worth checking other options for the front

Love this car

Matt Interesting Video How about drilling the subframe holes feather up?

i had the same problem sent it back too the manufacturer and sent them all my measurements, they said that does not sound right and it could not be fixed but i could have a custom. so any way i had it back and it done at a machine shop. BUT i have a spare engine and the fly wheel on that sits closer to the starter motor, i think the problem is the engines are inconsistent and the high torque motor is not made to accommodate this. if you measure the original it has more throw

I also cut a slot in the threaded end of that pain in the arse to do up bolt so that I can do it up most of the way with a little screw driver before tightening it. Does that make sense. It works a treat!

Nice to see logic applied to solve a problem rather than just a guesstimate. Nice work.

A Proper workbench. A box full of assorted gubbins , miscellaneous tools , hot beverages and Fag packet drawings . ❤ And all tools paid for ……, not ones on Chucky or that ‘dreaded reached out to by a sponsor ‘ 🤮