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Mark Stiles
Приєднався 10 жов 2006
Awesomatix A12 - LRC Pivot Build & Installation
An explanation of the LRC pivot assembly and how to build and fit it to your Awesomatix A12 series car.
Переглядів: 390
Відео
Awesomatix A12 - Rear Wheelbase & Ride Height
Переглядів 2,2 тис.2 роки тому
Setting and adjusting the wheelbase and ride height at the rear of the Awesomatix A12
Awesomatix A12 - Rear Damper
Переглядів 3,5 тис.2 роки тому
A description of the rear damper on the Awesomatix A12 with info on how the UK Team build it. A neat little tool for measuring the damping is also shown. If you’re at a race with your A12 and we are there, you’re more than welcome to use the checker if you don’t have your own.
Awesomatix A12 - Millais Club Race
Переглядів 1,8 тис.2 роки тому
I went to an excellent little club to the south of London and had a blast racing my A12 on a tight & twisty track. I made a few changes to the car based on the track and conditions that I will outline in this video. The “A” in “A-Final” stands for “Awesomatix” - if you weren’t driving one you weren’t in it! 😎
Awesomatix A12 - SCS Pivot
Переглядів 4,2 тис.2 роки тому
A quick demonstration of how to install the SCS Pivot.
Awesomatix A12 - Non-Standard Parts
Переглядів 2,8 тис.2 роки тому
A run through of the non-standard parts typically fitted to the Awesomatix A12 by the UK Team.
Awesomatix A12 - Front Suspension Options & Build
Переглядів 4,3 тис.2 роки тому
An overview of the various front suspension options available to adjust wheelbase, axle trail, castor and camber on the Awesomatix A12. Further detail on how the UK Team are building the kingpins and how best to adjust front droop and ride height.
Awesomatix A12 - Rear Suspension Setup
Переглядів 4,7 тис.2 роки тому
A brief run through of how the rear suspension on the A12 works and how drivers in the UK have been setting the car up initially. The settings described here are a good base setting for a neutral handling balance, but you can alter the setup to suit the track you’re racing on and your driving style. Indeed several of the UK team will typically run a more aggressive setup than this, particularly...
Awesomatix A12 - Steering Block Build
Переглядів 2,8 тис.2 роки тому
Some advice and tips to be mindful of when building the steering blocks on your Awesomatix A12. Also worth mentioning in case it’s not clear from the video that we build these hubs without any o-rings or shims inside them. So it’s just the block with plastic bushes and screw on caps with the caster sleeve through the middle.
Tamworth RC Club - LMP12 13.5 A Final - 30/07/2022
Переглядів 6372 роки тому
Mark Stiles wins from Ollie Payne and Matt Varah with 1.5 seconds covering the top-3 at the finish. Meeting Results; www.rc-results.com/viewer/Main/MeetingSummary?meetingId=5624
is this an LMP ?
Yes, it’s what is known as an LMP12 car, or “1/12 scale” for the old skool.
Hi Mark, What is the pro/cons of having the 5g x2 on the back? when should i use that.. Love the videos
Thank you for your great support. It’s very helpful!
A fascinating tip. Thanks a lot
Hi Mark, I can’t find this wide head screw locked the front rocket spring .thx for vidéo
Great videos man
Dear sir, may I ask what transponder you are using?
It’s an old MRT PTX, I’ve had it over 10 years.
Hi Mark, I have found that I often want less than -0.75 degrees of camber at the front too and this is the method I have used to get a consistent result left to right. As you know even a small rotation of the post can cause significant variation in camber, so setting them the same as each other can be tricky (trying to avoid having to use gauges and the faff of having to take things apart and reassemble if you get it slightly off / different). The standard method is to use the end of the ride height gauge (1.5mm diameter) as a dowel pin to line the holes up.... what I do is I use a body clip (I haven't actually measured this but its smaller than 1.5mm diameter) instead and then rotate the post towards the reduced camber direction until the slop is taken up and the body clip is now tight in the holes. From what I can measure this is giving approx -0.4 / -0.5 degrees of camber, and is super easy to get consistent setting left to right. Hopefully this helps you / anyone else reading this.
Great stuff. The a12 revolution is going absolutely insane here in the US. Much appreciated mark
ρɾσɱσʂɱ 🤪
STL? 😊
3D printer file
@@bstearn1653 I know. I want a copy of the file to print haha.
this helps alot! thanks!
Great tip on opening up the damper screw hole. Would be great if you could post the adapter .stl on Thingiverse or similar.
what ride height guage is that?
MR33
The video i was waiting for
Hey Mark, how is these doing against the Xrays? are they carrying more corner speed , more agile?
We are really enjoying the car in the UK. It seems to be fast in all grip levels and is very resilient. Most cars are fast in the right hands, but it does seem that drivers of all levels have managed to improve their performance and have been enjoying racing more since using the A12.
Great videos Mark, thanks for all the advice.
Thanks for the update to your settings. Increasing the side rail gap to 2.4mm is surprising.
To move from a side rail gap of 1.8mm to 2.4mm will only require a shim thickness reduction under the side rail screw head of about 0.2mm, so it’s a very sensitive adjustment.
@@Nobby528 Yes, I found that out the other day. I setup my car similar to yours from the previous week and ended up with a 2.1mm gap. I remember Mark Payne recommending 1.8 mm so I went with a larger shim. Now you’re at 2.4! Time for me to get out and drive it and compare them. PS you should invest in the A12 ride height gauge. It will allow you to give some actual DRH/DRH1 numbers. Its worth every penny.
@@bstearn1653 I have the gauge, but I am conscious that most do not so I try to measure the setup in a way that the majority of people will find useful.
Another great video Mark. Do you ever use the o-ring with the SCS pivot? I’m going to try it without this weekend.
No, I don’t ever use an o-ring in the SCS pivot. The effect of using that o-ring is to increase the roll stiffness without affecting bump stiffness, but I don’t particularly like the idea of using o-ring compression as roll stiffness adjustment.
Thanks for doing this video. Your explanation is better than the diagram
can u please do a video how to use a setup station and make camber , caster and toe changes ? would be super helpful!!
You don’t need to use a setup station to set the caster and camber. Choose the caster post for the amount of caster you want to run. Then the camber is indexed on the lower arm so you pick a camber angle, set it on the post and that’s it. Toe adjustment is done as normal with track rods, and you can use setup gauges for this if you wish.
Can you do a video showing how to put together the SCS?
Excellent videos man.
Will you be doing a gear diff build and suggested usage?
Unlikely for the time being I’m afraid. I don’t have a gear diff for the car and we don’t use them in the UK.
Another great video!
You mention in another video to add a 1mm shim on top below the button head screw to add more droop. What is the diameter of the shim? Is it smaller than the spring and sit inside?
Yes, this shim sits inside the spring and effectively makes the kingpin longer to give more front ride height and droop adjustment range. So a 3x5x1.0 ball stud washer will work perfectly.