Відео

First thing I would upgrade is to a lipo, tho you will need a lipo alarm since the stock esc has not cut off. Stock electronic actually works alright with 3s lipo. Next for me it would be the radio, more of a personal preference, i prefer the pistol grip style. The finally brushless if you want, definitely look into a sensored or a crawler sensor less system since the smooth start up is quite important. If you won't be pushing snow, then I recommend sticking with the stock tracks, they work well and are light weight, makes floating over snow much earlier. It's also easier on the electronics and battery life

@@CRCG_00 Thanks man! Yeah I want pistol grip radio! Did not know about lipo alarm so thanks man adding that to list of items.

@@CRCG_00 Searched after lipo alarm guide after you comment because i am new in this hobby .. and best video I found was your specific video about lipo alarm in Kyosho Blizzard 2.0 ! Thanks to all you helpful enthusiasts this hobby gets so much easier for beginners.

No, all stock gear and axle shafts

The the gears are stock, no metal.

I have a video on fabricating boat side that you can see the links, tho I didn't do a whole update video. It definitely required custom links. One handy tip I have is to have the steering link and pan hard as similar in length as possible to reduce bump steer. I believe I added 7mm spacers between the pan hard mount and the chassis to make up the difference.

Off Amain or any retailer should carry axial under/over drive gears

I used Vanquish wraith links

I'd skip traxxas altogether. Get yourself something decent. Savox, reefs, Holmes hobbies, hi-tech, power HD, etc. pick your poison.

Check your servo saver

Yes, I have a vtail mixer and I disconnected one of the middle wires from the esc so only one esc is powering the receiver. Here's the initial set up vid: ua-cam.com/video/2d94HH8Ad_c/v-deo.html Later in when I added lights, I ended up adding in a cheap 6v external bec and disconnecting both middle wires of the esc from the receiver.

It's the stock 1.9 wraith body with the stickers removed, it's unfortunately discontinued by axial so no reliable way to get one. Some might pop up from time to time on eBay but it's pretty rare now a days. One alternative I can offer is scx10 dealbolt body, you can make it fit the wraith cage with some modification. It has similar lines to the 1.9 wraith but definitely not a good looking

You can try gearing up more or run 4s or even 6s, but it works better in a low speed high torque situation. These motors heat up quickly too if you go above their rated rpm from the friction on the brushes.

It's pretty much identical to the axial stock ones, so any after market ar44 gear should fit

Yes, it's a snow guard to stop build up on the back of the body, it also help to some extent of keeping snow out of the insides. I have have changed the style of it since then to a longer version for better coverage. It's printed out of PLA and just bolted onto the existing holes on chassis plate with M3 hardware. I try not to self promote too much since I know it gets annoying but here are my links www.thingiverse.com/thing:5369928 www.ebay.com/itm/175534088213?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=n_0TZb4PR_2&sssrc=2524149&ssuid=n_0TZb4PR_2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

@@CRCG_00 :0 thanks alot

Nope, not at all. Currently I run it on 3s and 3500kv heli motors and stock drive train and tracks are completely fine, been running it for 3 winters now. Granted I keep it as light as possible and don't use it to push any snow. But it has been flawless so far.

Not necessarily, opposite threads are useful for fine adjustment on tierods of individual suspension vehicles for toe/camber, not really a consideration for crawler links. Axial started doing it after they were bought up by horizon, not sure why really there are no real advantages. For me it just adds confusion and complexity for no reason.

@@CRCG_00 ok thanks, was curious because my Capra had it, I am now looking to convert my trx4 to a trx6 and the links from Traxxas have been backorder for a while, so thought I will try an make some

I used a Turnigy vtail mixer, it was 15 usd off eBay. I haven't had a problem with them with the stock ESCs. I do have a slight glitch with castle ESCs where it would go directly in the calibration mode, but having the transmitter turned on before turning on the vehicle solves it. Did you disconnect the red wire from one of your ESCs? Perhaps it's over volting the system causing it to trip some sort of safety protection?.

@@CRCG_00 Unsure what caused it.

@@CRCG_00 About the time I figured what made it work I went brain dead and went to the LHS guy. He wired in a dpdt switch in the ground wires on the esc's. Now plug in the battery, turn on vehicle switch and flip dpdt and we're good to go.

Yes the bolt patterns are exactly the same, you'll just need shorter drive shafts to compensate for the longer transmission

@@CRCG_00 yes I ordered them per your video thank you for doing these videos BTW. Great information and help its much appreciated

Thanks, yes it is still running stock gearing at this point