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You've got a good point. I try to replace things that make sense 'while I've got it apart', but I also try not to spend too much time and money on things that are perfectly fine. But for $20-$30 and a little bit of work it's probably worth doing the other u-joint. Your comment prompted me to look closer at the center bearing and rubber cushion that holds it. That's probably going to get replaced since the rubber looks tired.

Hey - I'm running the original SM420 4-speed. I've never looked into it, but I know they my adapters/crossmembers for switching to a modern automatic.

Thanks for the response. I look forward to watching more of your videos.

Yeah - it was worth it. Most people probably won't use it very often, but for the price I think it's good to have it on the shelf. Can come in handy for other pressing work too. I used it for U-joints too.

Awesome, that's why I wanted to make the video. Glad it helped you!

Hey - No I don't think it's a Wildcat custom, just a regular one.

I used this kit that includes upper and lower from a seller on ebay: www.ebay.com/itm/371937427885 They're nice, seem like good quality

Sorry, I don't know. I've never worked on one of those. I would find a shop manual for your year. That's the first thing I do when I get a project vehicle.

Nice - that's an easier fix than wheel bearings. Some of the bolts that hold together the plates on mine were so rusty I could break them off with pliers. I replaced a bunch of those with new stainless nuts and bolts. Still have my hose clamps though :)

Hi - I get a lot of my parts from Jim Carter's Truck parts (oldchevytrucks.com). That's where I got my rebuild kit: oldchevytrucks.com/1947-1955/mechanical/front-end-and-suspension-parts/steering-box-gear-assemblies-rebuilt.html

I found the number! It's a K&N RC-0650.

I suppose you could, but it is a pressed in bushing. I has to be driven out.

Remove it with an air hammer

I used these panel boards: www.automotiveinteriors.com/cowlboard-door-panel-boards-for-cars-and-trucks-s/17346.htm They were about $50 with shipping for 2. They're big boards. With just 2 I was able to make those giant front door panels, as well as the smaller rear passenger panels that go below the rear 1/4 window. They're pretty strong, almost like wood. I was able to drive sheet metal screws through them. In the end I used stamped flat nuts to hold the screws, because I worried that over time the threads would pull out. You can look back at my other videos that show setting up the backer board. Thanks!

Glad the video helped, I was wondering where I could find a sheet metal stapler to get those things back on!

I'm glad my video helped, thanks for letting me know! I hope your disk conversion goes well!

@@theworkshop3706 Where did you get your valves for the brakes? And what upgrade needs to be done to the master cylinder?

Hey - I got this full kit from ebay: www.ebay.com/itm/304891708146 Comes with 11" booster, 2 chamber cylinder, brackets and pedal push rod. I had to cut the threaded rod down a long way. It was very long for my car. I also had to drill 2 new holes in the firewall to bolt up the adapter bracket. All in all it wasn't too bad. I didn't like the bleeders on the master cylinder. They worked ok, but leaked from the threads while they were open for bleeding. The brakes feel pretty good so far. I put in all new lines as well. The car is not running so I have not driven on them yet though. I have this video discussing the setup: ua-cam.com/video/EfScQ4Aq4-Q/v-deo.html

I don't recall how many turns or if the number went down after connecting the drag link. There are steering stops on the spindles. Assuming the rest of the steering linkages are connected, maybe now you're hitting the stops which is by design. That'd be my guess.

@@theworkshop3706 Thank you, I find your videos very helpful.

Yeah - I have a cheap old one that stopped working (not because I used it like a breaker bar - hahaha). I use it as long ratchet.

I saw that.

That's awesome - good luck with your project. That 425 is badass!

Thank you! Merry Christmas and Happy New year to you as well!

5x127mm is the same a 5x5in. Some wheels have dual patterns that have a total of 10 holes. The set I ended up with fit both 5x127 and 5x120 - which is this model: www.summitracing.com/parts/VSW-55-7806GMML0#overview 20" should be big enough to clear everything inside the wheel, like drums, calipers etc. Once you find a bolt pattern and diameter you want, you have to worry about clearance. If you're getting bigger rims, but going lower profile with the tires to keep the overall diameter of the tire the same, clearance should be ok. If you go wider and/or change the backspacing you can possibly move the wheel in or out far enough to hit the frame, fender, or suspension. There is tons of info out there already about sizing custom wheels, and I'm no expert so I'm not going to get into the detail here. Places do sell gauges to mock up your rim/tire combo to get a sense if you'll have an clearance issues. They can be expensive if you're only going to use them once. If you're not sure, it's best to buy just one rim and test fit it on all four corners to make sure it will at least bolt up. Worse case you only need to return 1 wheel. If it fits, then order three more and get tires mounted. Remember, you can't return a wheel that has had a tire mounted. That's what I ended up doing, I order one rim to make sure it would fit. When it did I ordered the other 3. Since I was being extra paranoid, I had the tire shop mount up a single wheel and tire I could take home and test. I checked it on all 4 corners of the car and it fit just fine with the tire I chose. I called the tire shop and gave them the go-ahead to mount the rest. Good luck with your new tires and wheels! I hope this helps!

Yeah, the actuator is attached directly to the plow with no chain or cable. It's more like a bull dozer than a snow plow. The blade is spring loaded so if it hits something it will fold down. I've used it a couple times last winter for light plowing and it worked well. The up/down motion moves a bit slow but you get used to it.

Hi, I'm well thanks. The fuel pumps seem to be listed wrong for this truck on some sites. Most places list the Carter M751 as the correct pump for this truck, and many other GM vehicles from around the same time. My issue is the pump mounts up fine but the lever doesn't engage the cam. I tried some other brands with no luck. I compared new versions of the pump to my original one and it looks like the angle of the pump lever is different. For a while I was using a dual action type that also has a vacuum pump for the wipers. That one engaged the camshaft and worked fine. I think it was the Carter M2430. That one kept giving me trouble where one of the check valves would pop out and it would stop pumping. I repaired it twice, then replaced it. I found an original NOS AC 531 glass top pump and have been using that one for since 2022. Those are rebuildable. Jim Carter (oldchevytrucks.com) carries a few different pumps. They specialize in these trucks so I assume their pump is right.

Hello - That intake was on the truck when I got it, pretty sure it's original. It was warped a little bit, so I had the machine shop clean up the mount surfaces that go against the head. Gave it a paint job and it looks good as new. I do have the heat pipe kit work with the aftermarket Fenton headers.

Hey there - I didn't get new ball studs. I updated the drag link to a modern style that already includes ball studs. I had to ream my steering arm a little bit to make it fit. See my other videos detailing the process. After the fact I found out they make tapered reamers for things like this. I had to make a couple of small shims from sheet metal but it did the job. Here is the part I used ACDELCO 45B0000: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=673947&cc=0&pt=7276&jsn=1 Mine's a 1ton truck, not sure if the steering parts differ from 1/2 - 3/4 - 1 ton. Good luck! Thanks for watching!

Hey - I ended up getting an another seal. Leaving the broken one in there was asking for trouble. I was able to get just the seal from the maker of the rebuild kit. I have had no issues with the waterpump so far though!

Oh that's awesome, good luck with your Fire Engine. 3 ton is big! I'm not sure what brakes they have but I'm going to assume they're bigger than a 1 Ton. Maybe TSM can work with you to develop a kit for the 3T trucks.

Hey - these rotors came as part of the kit from POL. POL states that they are from 70's full size GM cars. I looked up a rotor for a '74 Riviera on RockAuto and it looks the same as the one in the kit. This is the conversion kit I ordered: www.performanceonline.com/1966-69-buick-riviera-wildcat-lesabre-front-disc-brake-conversion-kit/

Yeah man - nice when things can be rebuilt!

Hey - Mine's a '66.

Awesome, glad it helped! Good luck with your bearing. Fortunately those are still pretty easy to find!

Thanks goatheadfarm! I'm glad I started to learn 3D printing. One thing you might not realize is learning 3D printing is also an exercise in learning CAD design. There are loads of community shared projects you can download and print on your own machine, but unobtainable parts for old cars you'll likely have to create the design yourself. They also make 3d scanners that let you scan an object and it render it into a file that can then be used to print or further edit. I have not used a 3d scanner yet. Friends of mine pointed me to Prusa 3D printers which I really like. For CAD design I started using TinkerCAD which is an online browser based editor that is really simple to get started making basic designs, but very limited. When I needed to make more complex objects, I started using FreeCAD which is a free and open source editor that runs on Windows/MacOS/Linux. There are lots of good FreeCAD tutorials on UA-cam, which were very helpful.

Hey @joeserrato2345 - My 1-ton is a dual rear wheel (DRW) truck that has front hub spacers that bump out the front wheels to line up with the dually wheels. There are single rear wheel (SRW) one ton trucks as well that don't use a front hub spacer. Do you have a dual rear wheel truck? The TSM site shows options for both: www.tsmmfg.net/chevy-gmc-car-front-disc-brakes-single-dual-options.html Also - you never know what previous owners did over the life of the truck. Someone might have swapped axles or something at one point.

Awesome! That's why I make these videos. I've gotten lots of great info from other people, I just want to contribute back. Glad you got it working!

Yeah - hard to hold the camera and wrench at the same time. It's really just turning the screw to drive out the ball joint, but yeah I would have like to shown it.

Awesome! Glad it helped. A bit of a hack, but it works.

I just kept pumping it into the fill hole until it got close to the opening. Nothing exact. It's John Deere corn head grease which is similar to 00 grease. It's self leveling so it eventually flows down to the bottom like oil.

@@theworkshop3706 Thanks, I find your videos very helpful.

Thanks @Mark' Garage Channel! Glad you find the videos helpful. Other people's videos help me a bunch so I figured I'd give back!

Unfortunately nobody seems to make tapered roller bearings for trucks over 1/2 ton. I started looking around at bearings by size and found some that were close, but would need a spacer to fit right. I thought about turning one on my lathe, but I'm still new to machining and a critical part like this isn't something to practice with. If I recall, the spacer I would need is for one of the races going over the spindle, so it's not like I'd have to machine a part that bearings actually ride on, so I may still attempt it some day. The stock part numbers are b45 and b46. Here is a table I made that maps NTN and Timken tapered roller bearings close in size to the originals. bearingfinder.ntnamericas.com/item/inch-and-j-series-tapered-roller-bearings/tapered-roller-set---inch-series-and-j-series/28150-28315 B46 - Front outer/NTN 28150/28315/Timken TRB-TS | 27881 - 27820 B Bore (Inch) 1.500 Bore (MM) 38.087 Design Single Row Angular Contact Inner Race Bore (Inch) 1.500 Inner Race Bore (MM) 38.087 Inner Race Outside Diameter (Inch) 2.100 Inner Race Outside Diameter (MM) 53.340 Inner Race Radius (Inch) 0.140 Inner Race Radius (MM) 3.556 Wi Inner Race Width (Inch) 0.917 Inner Race Width (MM) 23.292 Outer Race Bore (Inch) 2.546 Outer Race Bore (MM) 64.668 D Outer Race Outside Diameter (Inch) 3.150 Outer Race Outside Diameter (MM) 80.010 W Outer Race Width (Inch) 0.851 Outer race Width (MM) 21.615 D Outside Diameter (Inch) 3.150 Outside Diameter (MM) 80.010 Part Description Wheel Bearing Series FWBS Type E-1 Width (inch) 1.236 Width (MM) 31.394 B45 - Front inner NTN 15590/15520 B Bore (Inch) 0.906 Bore (MM) 23.007 Design Single Row Angular Contact Inner Race Bore (Inch) 0.906 Inner Race Bore (MM) 23.007 Inner Race Outside Diameter (Inch) 1.409 Inner Race Outside Diameter (MM) 35.789 Inner Race Radius (Inch) 0.140 Inner Race Radius (MM) 3.556 Wi Inner Race Width (Inch) 0.659 Inner Race Width (MM) 16.739 Outer Race Bore (Inch) 1.766 Outer Race Bore (MM) 44.856 D Outer Race Outside Diameter (Inch) 2.250 Outer Race Outside Diameter (MM) 57.158 W Outer Race Width (Inch) 0.690 Outer race Width (MM) 17.526 D Outside Diameter (Inch) 2.250 Outside Diameter (MM) 57.158 Part Description Wheel Bearing Series FWBS Type E-2 Width (inch) 0.800 Width (MM) 20.320

Thanks Frank - the more I work on it the more I'm starting to realize you can't assume the parts are the same on a similar Chevy or Olds car. 1966 especially seems like a transitional year. Certain parts were unique for the 1966 Wildcat, like the motor mounts and glove box. Fortunately many things are common, like the convertible top hydraulics. It's pretty cool that all the GM brands used to have their own engines and teams of engineers in each division trying to out do each other. It certainly sparked lots of innovation in the '60s. Although understandably for cost savings it makes sense to have one powertrain division shared among all the brands.

Hi - I didn't do a video on how to remove the water pump. It wasn't too hard though. I'm not sure about a '48 road master though. Probably fairly similar. The shop manual is your best friend. If you don't have one, the team buick site has a bunch in digital format. Here a link to the cooling system for a '48 Buick: www.teambuick.com/reference/library/48-49_shop/files/2-f.php

Thanks Dylan. That's the same approach I took - fix and drive, fix more and drive. Mine is not a show truck by any means. I don't beat on it but I do use it for farm work. Love to keep the old stuff looking and running good.

Hi Jon - I get most of my parts from Rockauto.com or Jim Carter Truck parts (oldchevytrucks.com). LMC Truck has a good selection of parts as well.

Thanks so much! Good luck with yours - if I can do it so can you!

Thanks, I plan on posting more! I've found so much useful help on UA-cam and other places I want to give back. Good to save all this obscure knowledge for others to use.

Thanks! Glad it was helpful. I get most of my parts from RockAuto or Jim Carter (oldchevytrucks.com). Sometimes brotherstrucks.com too, and Ebay.

Glad the video helped! I was surprised too at how hard they are to find. At least there are some out there and the job isn't too bad. Good luck!

Yes - good call. I did grease the threads. They recommend it in the instructions as well.