Відео

Szia. Javítás szempontjából a számozásnak semmi jelentősége. A mechanikát egy mágneskapcsoló működteti egy tárcsán keresztül melyet a z egyik lendkerék hajt. Ha kattan és a motor forog de nem működik a tekerés, akkor érdemes megnézni ezt a tárcsát, hiba szokott lenni, hogy egy kis bütyök lekopik vagy letörik róla és ezert nem működik. Illetve ellenőrizd a rugók meglétét is.

Hi. I think you mean the R207 resistor. You can see this part of the service manual in the video, where you can see that the resistor is 100 ohms.

@retrodeck1956 muchas gracias. El receptor tenia dos resistencias quemadas del mismo valor para los dos integrados de la radio. Ahora funciona excelente. Muchas gracias por tu video y tiempo.

Hi. Unfortunately I am not familiar with this device. I tried to find a service manual online, but I couldn't find one to download. So I don't see why the cassette door is closing. The other problem could be a possible contact error. Unfortunately I can't help you with that.

@@francescoscarpa6124 Hi. You pull the bottom of the door outwards and it can be removed.

Hi! The play/rec head is 370 ohms, erase head is 4.5 ohms, bias frequency is 85 kHz.

Hi. It only works when you switch to recording mode.

Ci vuole bussare i buttoni play/rec per far funzionare il VU meter. Ho trovato una soluzione di bussare anche il buttone “pause”. Mi piace quando il vu meter si muove.

Hi. If the magnetic switch works, then there may be a mechanical fault. The head unit is driven by the motor using a gear play disk. It is likely that the previous owner repaired it and assembled it incorrectly. Maybe one of the springs is not in the right place, or a part has broken. Try to check these, the service manual is very helpful, you can also see the mechanical units in it.

@@mayonnaise_ There are no speakers built into these. It's through an amplifier.

I have ap D33 but thinking about getting that one. So beautiful !

Yes

Hi. This will be difficult for me to say. I also had this error, but it is usually due to incorrect installation. Well, look at the stop button. Also, the part of the mechanics where the stop button operates the metal parts. Maybe a spring is out of place or the metal part is stuck. A little cleaning and grease. It is also possible that if this part was taken apart, something was wrongly rebuilt. Also, look at the moving part of the pause button. It can also be caused by the fact that the buttons do not remain pressed.

Thank you infinitely, can you tell me where the mechanical part is located where the shot takes place to keep the play, rew, f.fwd/cue stuck? Thank you very much?

Hi. This screw is in a metal nut. Carefully try to heat the head of the screw with a soldering iron. There is plastic around it, you have to be careful not to melt it. Put a screw-loosening spray on it both before and during it. I hope it works.

@@fantasticbeans95 Hi. Unfortunately, I can't help you fix it. But if you think you're trying to fix it, I'll be happy to help if I can.

You can see the main fixes in this video. The playback does not work, the belt may be a problem. Or some idler.

Hello. The VCR is a complicated structure. It's hard to say what the problem might be. Watch the videos to see if you can find something that will help you fix it. For example, the tape feed gears are not in the right position. Or the strip indicator light is not working. Worn idler. And I could go on and on.

If the tape unloads after reset and it is still possible to eject I think it pretty much is the loading belt. The VS-1 is mechanically the same as the VS-2, only the cassette lift differs. The VS-1 is a front loader. The VS-5 also looks the same inside, it has an additional warning buzzer if something does not work and if loading the tape around the drum does not work it gives a 'breakdown' message in the display.

Hi. You can see the drive in this video, you can only solve it by repairing the idlers and belts. However, the automatic shutdown can be due to many things. Check the plunger. This disconnects the mechanism. Check the voltages on the power supply board. The plunger works with 32 volts. On this panel you will find several diodes, check them as well. Here you will find a fuse resistor marked FR1. Replace this, it is most likely the fault.

@@retrodeck1956 Thank you kind sir for replying so quickly. My dumbass put the wrong rew/ff belt on as in putting the old one back on,I got them mixed up with a Pioneer ct-f1000's belt kit I'm working on that just happened to be too close. Anyway enough of my brain degenerative moments. I had no clue Fr1 was a fuse,so after I just read your post I checked it and got 90ohms darn the luck. The solenoid and plunger function well when temporarily as in split second shorting the ground terminal to the solenoid body or chassis gnd. D8 ,c13,c22 tr7 and 4 test good out of circuit. Thinking about looking at tr8 and tr6 tomorrow, as for now old butt is about to hit the bed after working on lawnmower then mowing and it is after midnight in my sleepy little town. Again thanks so much for taking the time to respond to your viewers! Kind Regards Randy Brown

@@RandyWBrown If the transistors are fine and the voltages are good, then only the solenoid switch can be checked. If I looked correctly, the signal is sw902. I hope the device was repaired. I have also been mowing the lawn for two days. But now it will be rest. Good luck to you. T Zoli

@@retrodeck1956 Hi Mr.Zoli and hope you're resting well on this fine Sunday afternoon. One quick question and I'll stop bothering you, I'm getting correct voltage everywhere on the ps board which as you mentioned earlier to check along with the reed switch. I get 34v on the collector of tr8 that goes directly to the reed switch when unit is not playing, just on. When play or ff/rew is pressed and counter is rotating, the voltage is all over the place from 0 to 32v and everywhere in between for milli seconds, shouldn't that be a stable voltage and if so I guess a new reed switch is in order. Thanks and enjoy the rest of your day. Kind Regards Randy

@@yannicklepaleo Hi! Car dashboard light, if I remember correctly, I used a 24 volt one. Its performance should be as small as possible.

@@josemanuel-ux2xn Hello. Unfortunately, these parts are no longer available. That's why I make most of these idlers rubber wheels from high quality water fitting sealing rubber. It is very cheap and can be purchased at any hardware store.

I don't understand what you mean, but look at the head in this device.

​@@retrodeck1956Возможно я ошибся и в этой деке не предусмотрено такое.

Основная фишка 220 - это ускоренная запись одновременно двух сторон кассеты, ну а послушать ее не переворачивая можно и в других деках, где автореверс предусмотрен.

@@ДедФеодосий Yes. It doesn't play back there. can only play normally. However, the heads are 2x2 channels. Thus, even when playing in one direction, it plays and records sides a and b simultaneously in accelerated mode.